Doha

Once little more than a minuscule pearl fishing village, Doha, Qatar's capital and largest city, has emerged to become one of the pearls of the Middle East. It is one of the most rapidly-developing cities on the Persian Gulf, akin to the development seen in nearby Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and is aiming to become a centre of international trade and travel.

For most of its history Doha was a poor fishing village dependent on pearl diving, and was regarded as a sleepy backwater until as recently as the early 1990s. Following the accession of Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani as Emir in 1995, however, Qatar quickly began to modernize, and Doha is now taking huge strides to catch up with other nearby Gulf cities, especially in preparation for its hosting of the FIFA World Cup in 2022. The city is very much a work-in-progress, with a rapidly growing skyline and new buildings sprouting up almost like mushrooms.

For most visitors, Doha is synonymous with Qatar, as the vast majority of the country's population resides in the capital city. Doha has an astonishingly diverse population – just 13% of residents are native Qataris. Although Arabic is Qatar's official language, English is by default the lingua franca, as the majority of the city's expats do not speak Arabic, including most shopkeepers and service providers, and most Qataris speak English to communicate with the numerous migrant workers who work for them. Doha is also now one of the fastest-growing cities in the world, as workers continue to pour in to help build the developing economy.

Doha is fairly liberal by the standards of the Islamic world, though less so than most Western countries. Alcohol is legal for non-Muslims, and non-Muslim women are not required to wear the hijab, though dressing in very skimpy outfits is still illegal. That said, Qatar is an absolute monarchy, so criticising the Emir is a crime. Homosexuality is also a crime that carries the death penalty (though not actively enforced), so gay visitors should try to be as discreet as possible.

If you've visited before, be assured that Doha today is not the same as it was just a couple of years ago, and will be very different again in a few years time.

• Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, From Dunes to Dior. Written by a resident Indian-American, this is a collection of insightful essays about life as an expatriate in Doha.
• Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, Love Comes Later. Set in Doha and London, this novel examines Qatari culture and how young Qataris are now challenging the status quo. The book is not available in Qatar as it has been banned by the Qatari Ministry of Culture.

Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, From Dunes to Dior. Written by a resident Indian-American, this is a collection of insightful essays about life as an expatriate in Doha.

Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, Love Comes Later. Set in Doha and London, this novel examines Qatari culture and how young Qataris are now challenging the status quo. The book is not available in Qatar as it has been banned by the Qatari Ministry of Culture.

Considering Doha is attempting to become something of a regional cultural hub, the state of its museums is somewhat shambolic. Many museums are under seemingly never-ending refurbishment, the opening hours are not particularly tourist friendly, websites lack practical information such as opening times and location, and many museums require you to phone in advance for a special appointment (which can make the solo visitor feel somewhat uncomfortable as the curator opens up just for one person).

The National Museum, Museum of Islamic Art, and Museum of Modern Art have a single three-day ticket for QAR85. Alternatively you can visit just one of them for QAR50.

• Museum of Islamic Arts, Next to Doha Port, on the Corniche (Route 76 bus; shuttle bus, +974 4422 4444. S M W 10:30AM-5:30PM; Th Sa noon-8PM; F 2PM-8PM. Doha's flagship museum. Housed in a building designed by I.M. Pei, the museum hosts artefacts from Muslim dynasties all over Asia, Africa and Europe. Also present are items from the Al-Thani dynasty, as well as art from all parts of the Middle East. Gloriously air conditioned, there is also a cafe and gift shop. The permanent exhibition is on the 2nd and 3rd floors, with temporary exhibitions on the ground floor. Free wi-fi in the museum building, dress appropriately. An hourly shuttle service provides free transportation between MIA and Mathaf W-Su 11AM-5PM; driving time between the two museums is 25-35 minutes. Free.
• Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Al Luqta St, Education City (shuttle bus, +974 4402 8855. Sa-Th 11AM-6PM, F 3PM-9PM. A specially designed building housing a collection of modern art from the Arab world, based on a personal collection amassed by Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani. The museum also hosts occasional exhibits featuring internationally-recognized contemporary artists. An hourly shuttle service provides free transportation between MIA and Mathaf W Th Sa Su 11AM-5PM, F 3PM-8PM, no shuttle M Tu; driving time between the two museums is 25-45 minutes. QAR50, or QAR85 for a museum pass.
• National Museum of Qatar, End of Al Muthaf St. Opened in early 2019. The original museum was housed in an early 20th-century palace; its extension, now under construction, was designed by French architect Jean Nouvel and inspired by the desert sand rose. The extension and original palace can both still be viewed from the outside.
• Weaponry Museum, Al Luqta area, +974 486 7473. The museum houses a spectacular display of weapons and artifacts dating back to the 16th century. The collection has magnificent ceremonial swords that belonged to members of the Gulf’s ruling families: an 18th-century gold-encased dagger owned by Sheikh Ali Bin Abdullah Al Thani; a sword belonging to King Faisal Bin Abdul Aziz Al Saud of Saudi Arabia; and a khanjar (traditional curved dagger) carried by the famed Lawrence of Arabia. The beauty and rarity of this collection bears witness to craftsmanship that has been lost for generations. Open mornings, Sunday to Thursday, by appointment only, after obtaining a letter of authorisation from the Museums Authority. Free.
• Orientalist Museum, Off Al Muthaf St (Mirqab, +974 4436 7711. Su-Th 7:30AM-2:30PM by appointment. The Orientalist Collection of the State of Qatar is one of the most significant collections ever assembled in the world. The approximate 700 paintings, water colours, drawings and prints, acquired over the last twenty years, trace Orientalism back to the early 18th century. The museum closes sporadically and it may be difficult to get an appointment.
• Arab Postal Stamp Museum, off of Lusail St (Katara Cultural Village, Bldg 22A, +974 4409 1077. Daily 7AM-1:30PM, 4PM-9PM. Established in 2010, this small museum exhibits stamps from 22 Arab countries.
• Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim Museum: West Bay Branch, City Tower, 6th Floor, Omar Al Mukhtar St (Renaissance Doha City Center Hotel, near City Center Mall, +974 4422-3899. 9AM-5PM by appt only (specify 'West Bay Branch'). An extension of the Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim Museum in Al Shahaniyah, this branch displays a number of carpets from various Middle Eastern countries, as well as furniture and domestic objects from Qatar and the Gulf region. It is eventually planned to make the collection accessible without appointment.
• VCUQatar Gallery, Virginia Commonwealth University in Qatar, Al Luqta Street, Education City, Doha, Qatar (Enter Education City through Gate 2, then right at the 2nd roundabout, +974 4402 0555. VCUQatar have a small gallery, with exhibitions which change every few months, in their campus on Education City, which is open to everyone (sign in at reception). Because of the ongoing building works at Education City, it's a nightmare to get from Mathaf to here, but when the trams are running it should be an easy side-trip from there!
• Msheireb Museums. A collection of four historic "houses" in the new downtown district of Msheireb: Mohammed bin Jassim House, Company House, Bin Jelmood House and Radwani House. Free.
• Firestation Artist in Residence, Mohammed Bin Thani St, +974 4422-4222,. Sa- Th 9AM–7PM; F 1PM–7PM. Has an art supply store and cafe on site. Free.

Museum of Islamic Arts, Next to Doha Port, on the Corniche (Route 76 bus; shuttle bus, +974 4422 4444. S M W 10:30AM-5:30PM; Th Sa noon-8PM; F 2PM-8PM. Doha's flagship museum. Housed in a building designed by [[Architecture#I.M._Pei|I.M. Pei]], the museum hosts artefacts from Muslim dynasties all over Asia, Africa and Europe. Also present are items from the Al-Thani dynasty, as well as art from all parts of the Middle East. Gloriously air conditioned, there is also a cafe and gift shop. The permanent exhibition is on the 2nd and 3rd floors, with temporary exhibitions on the ground floor. Free wi-fi in the museum building, dress appropriately. An hourly shuttle service provides free transportation between MIA and Mathaf W-Su 11AM-5PM; driving time between the two museums is 25-35 minutes. Free.

Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Al Luqta St, Education City (shuttle bus, +974 4402 8855. Sa-Th 11AM-6PM, F 3PM-9PM. A specially designed building housing a collection of modern art from the Arab world, based on a personal collection amassed by Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani. The museum also hosts occasional exhibits featuring internationally-recognized contemporary artists. An hourly shuttle service provides free transportation between MIA and Mathaf W Th Sa Su 11AM-5PM, F 3PM-8PM, no shuttle M Tu; driving time between the two museums is 25-45 minutes. QAR50, or QAR85 for a museum pass.

National Museum of Qatar, End of Al Muthaf St. Opened in early 2019. The original museum was housed in an early 20th-century palace; its extension, now under construction, was designed by French architect Jean Nouvel and inspired by the desert sand rose. The extension and original palace can both still be viewed from the outside.

Weaponry Museum, Al Luqta area, +974 486 7473. The museum houses a spectacular display of weapons and artifacts dating back to the 16th century. The collection has magnificent ceremonial swords that belonged to members of the Gulf’s ruling families: an 18th-century gold-encased dagger owned by Sheikh Ali Bin Abdullah Al Thani; a sword belonging to King Faisal Bin Abdul Aziz Al Saud of Saudi Arabia; and a khanjar (traditional curved dagger) carried by the famed Lawrence of Arabia. The beauty and rarity of this collection bears witness to craftsmanship that has been lost for generations. Open mornings, Sunday to Thursday, by appointment only, after obtaining a letter of authorisation from the Museums Authority. Free.

Orientalist Museum, Off Al Muthaf St (Mirqab, +974 4436 7711. Su-Th 7:30AM-2:30PM by appointment. The Orientalist Collection of the State of Qatar is one of the most significant collections ever assembled in the world. The approximate 700 paintings, water colours, drawings and prints, acquired over the last twenty years, trace Orientalism back to the early 18th century. The museum closes sporadically and it may be difficult to get an appointment.

Arab Postal Stamp Museum, off of Lusail St (Katara Cultural Village, Bldg 22A, +974 4409 1077. Daily 7AM-1:30PM, 4PM-9PM. Established in 2010, this small museum exhibits stamps from 22 Arab countries.

Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim Museum: West Bay Branch, City Tower, 6th Floor, Omar Al Mukhtar St (Renaissance Doha City Center Hotel, near City Center Mall, +974 4422-3899. 9AM-5PM by appt only (specify 'West Bay Branch'). An extension of the Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim Museum in [[Al Shahaniyah]], this branch displays a number of carpets from various Middle Eastern countries, as well as furniture and domestic objects from Qatar and the Gulf region. It is eventually planned to make the collection accessible without appointment.

VCUQatar Gallery, Virginia Commonwealth University in Qatar, Al Luqta Street, Education City, Doha, Qatar (Enter Education City through Gate 2, then right at the 2nd roundabout, +974 4402 0555. VCUQatar have a small gallery, with exhibitions which change every few months, in their campus on Education City, which is open to everyone (sign in at reception). Because of the ongoing building works at Education City, it's a nightmare to get from Mathaf to here, but when the trams are running it should be an easy side-trip from there!

Msheireb Museums. A collection of four historic "houses" in the new downtown district of Msheireb: Mohammed bin Jassim House, Company House, Bin Jelmood House and Radwani House. Free.

Firestation Artist in Residence, Mohammed Bin Thani St, +974 4422-4222,. Sa- Th 9AM–7PM; F 1PM–7PM. Has an art supply store and cafe on site. Free.

• Al Koot Fort, Jassim Bin Mohammed St (parking lot near Souq Waqif. Built in 1880 during the Ottoman period, this big white fort is in what is now the parking lot of Souq Waqif. At the time it was built, however, the fort was on the outskirts of the city. It was used as an ethnographic museum, the building is undergoing renovations and is closed, although it is still a popular place to take photos.
• Fanar Qatar Islamic Cultural Center, Abdullah Bin Jassim St (near the Corniche and Souq Waqif, +974 4425 0169. Daily 8AM-noon, 4PM-8PM. Easily spotted from the Corniche with its distinctive spiral minaret, the center aims to educate non-Muslims about Islam by offering free Arabic classes as well as art and calligraphy exhibits. The center conducts bi-weekly tours of local mosques followed by a traditional dinner (abayas provided for women, registration required), and also hosts weekly coffee mornings with presentations on Qatari culture and lifestyle (registration required). Free.
• Clock Tower. Next to the Grand Mosque, this old clock tower features Arabic numerals on its face. The tower is also on a hill, and as such offers some wonderful views of the Corniche.
• Windtower House, Grand Hamad St & Ali bin Abdulla St (enclosed within Souq Najada. One of the last traditional windtowers in Qatar. Windtowers were used in the days before air conditioning, functioning by sucking cool air into a house. The house is not open to the public, but can be viewed from the outside.
• Souq Waqif. Closed for lunch from 12:30 to 15:30. Souq Waqif is the renovated Arabic market quarter, where one can easily wander around the maze-like corridors for hours. The souq is organized more or less by what is sold. There is a section of spice shops, another of textiles, and even a quarter with falcons for sale. Stables with Arabian horses are not far from the falcons, and camels are kept near Al Koot Fort and the parking lot. Also look for places to buy souvenirs, sit down to smoke a Sheesha, or enjoy food at one of the restaurants bordering it. Traditionally-dressed Qatari police occasionally patrol the souq area, in the morning mounted on camels and in the evening on horseback. The souq was completely rebuilt several years ago on the site of an older souq, and therefore can feel somewhat artificial; however it is a very popular place for locals, particularly on weekends.
• Msheireb Enrichment Centre, barge docked off the Corniche, next to the Sheraton, +974 33197482, +974 33192305. M-Th 9AM-8:30PM; noon-8PM Th, Sa 3:30PM-6PM. A small museum with photographs and artifacts illustrating the historic development of Doha from small fishing town to modern city. The exhibit is sponsored by developer of the Msheireb project near Souq Waqif. Free.
• Heritage Library. Over 51,000 books in Arabic and other languages on Qatar and the Middle East, together with 600 antique maps, 2,000 manuscripts and 6,000 original photographs, form the Arabian and Islamic Heritage Library in Qatar, another initiative of HH Sheikha Mozah Bint Nasser Al Missned through Qatar Foundation. It is one of the largest research centres in the Middle East, and is based on a collection started by Sheikh Hassan Bin Mohamed Al Thani in 1979. Tours of the collections are offered twice on Sunday and Tuesdays, at 10AM and 11:30AM, no appointments required. Free.
• Qatar National Library. Opened in April 2018, the building was designed by renowned Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas.
• Virginia Commonwealth University Gallery, Al Luqta St, Education City (entrance at Gate 2, +974 4402 0555. M W Sa Su 10AM-5PM; T 10AM-5:30PM. The gallery at the VCU-Q campus in Education City regularly hosts visiting exhibitions and the work of faculty members and students. On those occasions, the gallery is open to the general public. The collection includes Arab manuscripts, a foreign language section dating back to the 15th century, and 20th century books about art and politics. Free.
• Heritage Village. Its buildings are modeled on a traditional Qatari village. Visitors can expect to see weaving, pearl trading, and a dhow (traditional boat). The village is open only for Ramadan, Eid, and special cultural festivals.
• Al Najada. For a glimpse of some older Qatari architecture, it can be worthwhile to wander around some of the older neighborhoods surrounding Souq Waqif, particularly the small neighborhood to the immediate south of the souq. There are still a few notable old villas and mosques which predate the mostly 1970s-era buildings; given the pace of redevelopment in Doha it is unclear how much longer they will survive. Best explored on foot. (As the current inhabitants are exclusively male immigrants, women will feel uncomfortable without a male companion.)
• House of Sheikh Abdullah bin Thani Al-Thani, Al Luqta St (near the Education City Roundabout. A traditional Qatari home, remarkable because it has two instead of one 'majlis' (guest reception area). Built in 1935 using traditional materials and techniques, it has been fully restored. The building is not open to the public, but can be viewed from the outside.

Al Koot Fort, Jassim Bin Mohammed St (parking lot near Souq Waqif. Built in 1880 during the Ottoman period, this big white fort is in what is now the parking lot of Souq Waqif. At the time it was built, however, the fort was on the outskirts of the city. It was used as an ethnographic museum, the building is undergoing renovations and is closed, although it is still a popular place to take photos.

Fanar Qatar Islamic Cultural Center, Abdullah Bin Jassim St (near the Corniche and Souq Waqif, +974 4425 0169. Daily 8AM-noon, 4PM-8PM. Easily spotted from the Corniche with its distinctive spiral minaret, the center aims to educate non-Muslims about Islam by offering free Arabic classes as well as art and calligraphy exhibits. The center conducts bi-weekly tours of local mosques followed by a traditional dinner (abayas provided for women, registration required), and also hosts weekly coffee mornings with presentations on Qatari culture and lifestyle (registration required). Free.

Clock Tower. Next to the Grand Mosque, this old clock tower features Arabic numerals on its face. The tower is also on a hill, and as such offers some wonderful views of the Corniche.

Windtower House, Grand Hamad St & Ali bin Abdulla St (enclosed within Souq Najada. One of the last traditional windtowers in Qatar. Windtowers were used in the days before air conditioning, functioning by sucking cool air into a house. The house is not open to the public, but can be viewed from the outside.

Souq Waqif. Closed for lunch from 12:30 to 15:30. Souq Waqif is the renovated Arabic market quarter, where one can easily wander around the maze-like corridors for hours. The souq is organized more or less by what is sold. There is a section of spice shops, another of textiles, and even a quarter with falcons for sale. Stables with Arabian horses are not far from the falcons, and camels are kept near Al Koot Fort and the parking lot. Also look for places to buy souvenirs, sit down to smoke a Sheesha, or enjoy food at one of the restaurants bordering it. Traditionally-dressed Qatari police occasionally patrol the souq area, in the morning mounted on camels and in the evening on horseback. The souq was completely rebuilt several years ago on the site of an older souq, and therefore can feel somewhat artificial; however it is a very popular place for locals, particularly on weekends.

Msheireb Enrichment Centre, barge docked off the Corniche, next to the Sheraton, +974 33197482, +974 33192305. M-Th 9AM-8:30PM; noon-8PM Th, Sa 3:30PM-6PM. A small museum with photographs and artifacts illustrating the historic development of Doha from small fishing town to modern city. The exhibit is sponsored by developer of the Msheireb project near Souq Waqif. Free.

Heritage Library. Over 51,000 books in Arabic and other languages on Qatar and the Middle East, together with 600 antique maps, 2,000 manuscripts and 6,000 original photographs, form the Arabian and Islamic Heritage Library in Qatar, another initiative of HH Sheikha Mozah Bint Nasser Al Missned through Qatar Foundation. It is one of the largest research centres in the Middle East, and is based on a collection started by Sheikh Hassan Bin Mohamed Al Thani in 1979. Tours of the collections are offered twice on Sunday and Tuesdays, at 10AM and 11:30AM, no appointments required. Free.

Qatar National Library. Opened in April 2018, the building was designed by renowned Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas.

Virginia Commonwealth University Gallery, Al Luqta St, Education City (entrance at Gate 2, +974 4402 0555. M W Sa Su 10AM-5PM; T 10AM-5:30PM. The gallery at the VCU-Q campus in Education City regularly hosts visiting exhibitions and the work of faculty members and students. On those occasions, the gallery is open to the general public. The collection includes Arab manuscripts, a foreign language section dating back to the 15th century, and 20th century books about art and politics. Free.

Heritage Village. Its buildings are modeled on a traditional Qatari village. Visitors can expect to see weaving, pearl trading, and a dhow (traditional boat). The village is open only for Ramadan, Eid, and special cultural festivals.

Al Najada. For a glimpse of some older Qatari architecture, it can be worthwhile to wander around some of the older neighborhoods surrounding Souq Waqif, particularly the small neighborhood to the immediate south of the souq. There are still a few notable old villas and mosques which predate the mostly 1970s-era buildings; given the pace of redevelopment in Doha it is unclear how much longer they will survive. Best explored on foot. (As the current inhabitants are exclusively male immigrants, women will feel uncomfortable without a male companion.)

House of Sheikh Abdullah bin Thani Al-Thani, Al Luqta St (near the Education City Roundabout. A traditional Qatari home, remarkable because it has two instead of one 'majlis' (guest reception area). Built in 1935 using traditional materials and techniques, it has been fully restored. The building is not open to the public, but can be viewed from the outside.

• Corniche. The visual highlight of Doha is Al-Corniche, a long seaside promenade that curves around Doha Bay and affords pretty views of Palm Tree Island and the city's skyscrapers. In the afternoons you will see plenty of locals strolling, often trying to get out of the way of the odd crazy Western ex-pat on rollerblades. It's also a good place for jogging. Cycling is prohibited. If you're looking to have the scenery all to yourself, go on a Friday morning.
  • Highlights along the Corniche (from east to west) include an informal morning fish market, the MIA (Museum of Islamic Art), the 'Water Pots' fountain, the giant Oyster and Pearl sculpture, the Dhow Harbour (with traditional wooden dhows), and a giant 'Orry' statue (the mascot for the 2006 Asian Games).
• Rumeila Park, The Corniche. Formerly known as Al-Bidda Park, this is opposite the Corniche with an outdoor theatre, art gallery, water features, children’s play area and skateboard/rollerblading half-pipe. There are several shops, a cafeteria and public toilets.
• Katara Cultural Village, off of Lusail St, +974 4408 0000. This building complex is designed to resemble a traditional Qatari village, and includes a large open-air amphitheater, opera house, drama theater, galleries, as well as a number of (expensive) restaurants featuring international cuisine. The galleries host changing art and photography exhibits, and various festivals are held here throughout the year. There is also a public beach here (entry fee QR 100) which offers watersport activities. Modest beach attire is required, i.e. for women a one-piece suit.
• Al Jazeera Studios, Wadi Al Sail West (near TV Roundabout, +974 4489 7446, +974 4489 7451, +974 4489 7449. One of Qatar's claims to fame is the Al Jazeera news network, which broadcasts to hundreds of millions around the world. The studios are not made to be a tourist attraction, although you may be able to contact the office and ask for a tour. A small on-site museum is dedicated to journalists who have died in the field, and has various timelines and displays about the network's history.
• Doha Zoo, Al Rayyan. The zoo is undergoing major renovation and refurbishment, and is closed.
• MIA Park, Corniche (adjacent to the Museum of Islamic Art. Oct-May: W-M 10:30AM-11:30PM, Jun-Sep: W-M 6PM-noon, closed 1 Jul - 2nd day of Eid. This modern park was built on reclaimed land and affords great views of the West Bay skyline. Visitors can rent bicycles or paddleboats, and enjoy coffee or ice cream at a small café. At the end of the promenade is the monumental sculpture '7' by American sculptor Richard Serra. During the winter the MIA Park Bazaar is held on the first Saturday of every month, offering an eclectic mix of food, arts, crafts, books, and souvenirs. Free.
• Calligraffiti Murals, four underground tunnels on Salwa Rd. In 2013 the French-Tunisian graffiti artist eL Seed was commissioned by the Qatar Museum Authority and the Public Works Authority to paint a series of 52 large-scale murals inspired by Qatari culture. The project required four months to complete and showcases eL Seed's signature style fusing Arabic calligraphy with street art. The murals can be best seen by simply driving through the tunnels.
• The Miraculous Journey, Sidra Medical and Research Center (near Education City. A series of 14 monumental bronze sculptures depicting the stages of development of a fetus from gestation to newborn, by British artist Damien Hirst. The sculptures were commissioned by the Qatar Museum Authority, which reportedly paid US$20 million for them. The medical center is a women's hospital. Free.

Corniche. The visual highlight of Doha is Al-Corniche, a long seaside promenade that curves around Doha Bay and affords pretty views of Palm Tree Island and the city's skyscrapers. In the afternoons you will see plenty of locals strolling, often trying to get out of the way of the odd crazy Western ex-pat on rollerblades. It's also a good place for jogging. Cycling is prohibited. If you're looking to have the scenery all to yourself, go on a Friday morning.

• Highlights along the Corniche (from east to west) include an informal morning fish market, the MIA (Museum of Islamic Art), the 'Water Pots' fountain, the giant Oyster and Pearl sculpture, the Dhow Harbour (with traditional wooden dhows), and a giant 'Orry' statue (the mascot for the 2006 Asian Games).

Rumeila Park, The Corniche. Formerly known as Al-Bidda Park, this is opposite the Corniche with an outdoor theatre, art gallery, water features, children’s play area and skateboard/rollerblading half-pipe. There are several shops, a cafeteria and public toilets.

Katara Cultural Village, off of Lusail St, +974 4408 0000. This building complex is designed to resemble a traditional Qatari village, and includes a large open-air amphitheater, opera house, drama theater, galleries, as well as a number of (expensive) restaurants featuring international cuisine. The galleries host changing art and photography exhibits, and various festivals are held here throughout the year. There is also a public beach here (entry fee QR 100) which offers watersport activities. Modest beach attire is required, i.e. for women a one-piece suit.

Al Jazeera Studios, Wadi Al Sail West (near TV Roundabout, +974 4489 7446, +974 4489 7451, +974 4489 7449. One of Qatar's claims to fame is the Al Jazeera news network, which broadcasts to hundreds of millions around the world. The studios are not made to be a tourist attraction, although you may be able to contact the office and ask for a tour. A small on-site museum is dedicated to journalists who have died in the field, and has various timelines and displays about the network's history.

Doha Zoo, Al Rayyan. The zoo is undergoing major renovation and refurbishment, and is closed.

MIA Park, Corniche (adjacent to the Museum of Islamic Art. Oct-May: W-M 10:30AM-11:30PM, Jun-Sep: W-M 6PM-noon, closed 1 Jul - 2nd day of Eid. This modern park was built on reclaimed land and affords great views of the West Bay skyline. Visitors can rent bicycles or paddleboats, and enjoy coffee or ice cream at a small café. At the end of the promenade is the monumental sculpture '7' by American sculptor Richard Serra. During the winter the MIA Park Bazaar is held on the first Saturday of every month, offering an eclectic mix of food, arts, crafts, books, and souvenirs. Free.

Calligraffiti Murals, four underground tunnels on Salwa Rd. In 2013 the French-Tunisian graffiti artist eL Seed was commissioned by the Qatar Museum Authority and the Public Works Authority to paint a series of 52 large-scale murals inspired by Qatari culture. The project required four months to complete and showcases eL Seed's signature style fusing Arabic calligraphy with street art. The murals can be best seen by simply driving through the tunnels.

The Miraculous Journey, Sidra Medical and Research Center (near Education City. A series of 14 monumental bronze sculptures depicting the stages of development of a fetus from gestation to newborn, by British artist Damien Hirst. The sculptures were commissioned by the Qatar Museum Authority, which reportedly paid US$20 million for them. The medical center is a women's hospital. Free.

Doha has a reputation for not being the most exciting place on earth; however, should you find yourself here for a longer visit, there is a variety of activities and events. Start off with a tour of the city, which should take you about 2 hours and from there you will have a good idea of what you would like to see.

• Beaches. There are well-maintained private beaches in Doha owned by hotels, which permit public access for a fee. Hotels with beaches include the Grand Hyatt, Diplomatic Club, InterContinental, Sheraton, Sharq Village, and the Four Seasons, with fees ranging from QR 180 for weekday passes to annual family memberships. Additionally, the Katara Cultural Village operates Doha's only public beach, with an entry fee of QR 100. On private beaches western swim wear is acceptable, but on public beaches women should dress more modestly (i.e. with long water shorts and t-shirts).
• Dhow tour. Day or evening dhow cruises can be arranged with any of the dhows docked along the Corniche. Many cruises offer meals and entertainment, and can be booked for large tours or for more informal arrangements.
• Doha Film Institute. Showcasing a wide range of international and art films, DFI also hosts two international film festivals, in November and in March. Films are screened at the Museum of Islamic Art and at Katara Cultural Village; tickets can be booked online.
• Doha Golf Club, West Bay, +974 4496 0777. 6:30AM-11PM daily. The only golf club open to the general public. QR 590 weekdays, QR 795 weekends (nonmembers).
• Drag racing, 52nd St (near the intersection with E Industrial St in the Industrial Area, Al Rayyan, +974 4450 9357, +974 4469 9114, +974 4469 9358, +974 4469 9113. Drag racing is promoted by the Qatari government on an organized racetrack so young drivers do not feel the need for crazy driving on the streets of Doha. For a fee you can race your own car, or you can watch one of the regularly-scheduled professional races.
• Jungle Zone, Hyatt Plaza (near Khalifa Stadium. 3500 m² of animal-themed children's attractions, Qatar's most popular indoor theme park.
• Kayaking, +974 3311 6249. Entalek Adventures offers guided sea kayaking trips within Doha, or further afield along coastal mangroves and secluded beaches, with opportunites for birdwatching and camping. They also conduct guided snorkeling trips, and can rent out fully-outfitted kayaks (QR 200/day).
• Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club, Al Rayyan, +974 4480 8122. Horse racing takes place during the winter months, with races scheduled every Thursday beginning at 4PM and lasting until about 9PM. Gambling is prohibited, but attendees can enter free raffles to guess the winning horses, with substantial prizes (including cars). These races are very popular. The Club also hosts an Arabian horse show every March; details are published in the local press. Free.
• Sailing, Al Isteqlal Rd (West Bay Lagoon, near the InterContinental Hotel, +974 4442 4577. Regatta Sailing Academy offers sailing courses as well as a range of boats for hire, including funboats, dinghies, and two 30-foot yachts.
• Sheesha. A typical Middle Eastern activity in the afternoons is to find a sheesha cafe and smoke some fruit-flavoured tobacco. One of the best places in Doha is Ras-Naswa at the non-Sheraton end of the Corniche. It's in a picturesque old-style building reminiscent, in colour and texture if not grandeur, of the red Mughal structures in India. Ras-Naswa has a nice outdoor garden and serves decent Middle Eastern food.
• Al Shaqab Horse Centre, Al Shaqab, +974 4454 6320. 7:30AM-3:30PM. A state of the art horse riding facility and equestrian centre highlighting the importance of the Arabian horse and the detailing the history of equestrianism in the area Varies.
• Aspire Park. The largest park in Doha. Lots of grass, trees, playgrounds. Free.

Beaches. There are well-maintained private beaches in Doha owned by hotels, which permit public access for a fee. Hotels with beaches include the Grand Hyatt, Diplomatic Club, InterContinental, Sheraton, Sharq Village, and the Four Seasons, with fees ranging from QR 180 for weekday passes to annual family memberships. Additionally, the Katara Cultural Village operates Doha's only public beach, with an entry fee of QR 100. On private beaches western swim wear is acceptable, but on public beaches women should dress more modestly (i.e. with long water shorts and t-shirts).

Dhow tour. Day or evening dhow cruises can be arranged with any of the dhows docked along the Corniche. Many cruises offer meals and entertainment, and can be booked for large tours or for more informal arrangements.

Doha Film Institute. Showcasing a wide range of international and art films, DFI also hosts two international film festivals, in November and in March. Films are screened at the Museum of Islamic Art and at Katara Cultural Village; tickets can be booked online.

Doha Golf Club, West Bay, +974 4496 0777. 6:30AM-11PM daily. The only golf club open to the general public. QR 590 weekdays, QR 795 weekends (nonmembers).

Drag racing, 52nd St (near the intersection with E Industrial St in the Industrial Area, Al Rayyan, +974 4450 9357, +974 4469 9114, +974 4469 9358, +974 4469 9113. Drag racing is promoted by the Qatari government on an organized racetrack so young drivers do not feel the need for crazy driving on the streets of Doha. For a fee you can race your own car, or you can watch one of the regularly-scheduled professional races.

Jungle Zone, Hyatt Plaza (near Khalifa Stadium. 3500 m² of animal-themed children's attractions, Qatar's most popular indoor theme park.

Kayaking, +974 3311 6249. Entalek Adventures offers guided sea kayaking trips within Doha, or further afield along coastal mangroves and secluded beaches, with opportunites for birdwatching and camping. They also conduct guided snorkeling trips, and can rent out fully-outfitted kayaks (QR 200/day).

Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club, Al Rayyan, +974 4480 8122. Horse racing takes place during the winter months, with races scheduled every Thursday beginning at 4PM and lasting until about 9PM. Gambling is prohibited, but attendees can enter free raffles to guess the winning horses, with substantial prizes (including cars). These races are very popular. The Club also hosts an Arabian horse show every March; details are published in the local press. Free.

Sailing, Al Isteqlal Rd (West Bay Lagoon, near the InterContinental Hotel, +974 4442 4577. Regatta Sailing Academy offers sailing courses as well as a range of boats for hire, including funboats, dinghies, and two 30-foot yachts.

Sheesha. A typical Middle Eastern activity in the afternoons is to find a sheesha cafe and smoke some fruit-flavoured tobacco. One of the best places in Doha is Ras-Naswa at the non-Sheraton end of the Corniche. It's in a picturesque old-style building reminiscent, in colour and texture if not grandeur, of the red Mughal structures in India. Ras-Naswa has a nice outdoor garden and serves decent Middle Eastern food.

Al Shaqab Horse Centre, Al Shaqab, +974 4454 6320. 7:30AM-3:30PM. A state of the art horse riding facility and equestrian centre highlighting the importance of the Arabian horse and the detailing the history of equestrianism in the area Varies.

Aspire Park. The largest park in Doha. Lots of grass, trees, playgrounds. Free.

You can buy pretty much anything you want in Doha, apart from pork products and alcohol (except with a licence or in the major hotels). Shopping is a major leisure pursuit of many Qataris and expats; prices however are somewhat higher than in Dubai. As with in most of the Middle East, be prepared to bargain.

The best shopping experiences are undoubtedly to be had in the various souqs (markets).

• Souq Waqif, Al Jasra (near the Emiri Diwan and Al Koot Fort. Daily 10AM-noon, 4PM-10PM. Also referred to as the Old Souq, this is the best place to pick up souvenirs and rub shoulder with locals. There are good restaurants and sheesha cafes here. There are also falcon shops, and some dealers will allow you to handle and photograph them. Also worth visiting are the horse stables (near the falcon shops) and the camels (near Al Koot Fort).
• Gold Souq, Ali Bin Abdullah St (Old Al Ghanim, near HSBC by the bus station. The place to buy gold and jewellery. The purity of gold is strictly regulated, so you can be sure of the quality.
• Fabric Souq, Al Ahmed St (near Fanar Mosque, with the distinctive spiral minaret. This comprises three different neighboring souqs (Al Ahmed, Al Asiery, and Al Dira). Here you can choose from a selection of exotic fabrics and have clothing designed and tailored to your specifications. For a complete outfit, allow about a week or two for completion.
• Omani Souq, Bu Hamour (near the Wholesale Market, parallel to Salwa Rd. Here you can buy things like spices, incense and woven baskets. Next door is a vegetable market.

Souq Waqif, Al Jasra (near the Emiri Diwan and Al Koot Fort. Daily 10AM-noon, 4PM-10PM. Also referred to as the Old Souq, this is the best place to pick up souvenirs and rub shoulder with locals. There are good restaurants and sheesha cafes here. There are also falcon shops, and some dealers will allow you to handle and photograph them. Also worth visiting are the horse stables (near the falcon shops) and the camels (near Al Koot Fort).

Gold Souq, Ali Bin Abdullah St (Old Al Ghanim, near HSBC by the bus station. The place to buy gold and jewellery. The purity of gold is strictly regulated, so you can be sure of the quality.

Fabric Souq, Al Ahmed St (near Fanar Mosque, with the distinctive spiral minaret. This comprises three different neighboring souqs (Al Ahmed, Al Asiery, and Al Dira). Here you can choose from a selection of exotic fabrics and have clothing designed and tailored to your specifications. For a complete outfit, allow about a week or two for completion.

Omani Souq, Bu Hamour (near the Wholesale Market, parallel to Salwa Rd. Here you can buy things like spices, incense and woven baskets. Next door is a vegetable market.

Typically most malls in Doha are open Sa-Th 10AM-10PM. Most will be closed on Friday mornings but will open up during the evening, when they'll be the most crowded. Also, be aware that some malls schedule "Family Days", where single men will be turned away at the door. In practice, however, most Westerners will be allowed in, but brown-skinned persons (particularly South Asians in their native dressing) will be turned away.

• City Center Doha, Conference Centre St (West Bay. The largest shopping centre in Qatar. In West Bay, the modern part of the city on the northern end of the Corniche, it offers a large and diverse shopping experience, including several jewellery and perfume stores. For entertainment there is a large multiplex cinema, a bowling alley, a children's arcade, as well as an indoor ice skating rink. There are several eating options including two food courts and several sit-down restaurants. By western standards, this mall is quite dated for its age, but remains popular due to its large size and ideal location. Finally, the mall is home to a large Carrefour hypermarket.
• Ezdan Mall, Al Markhiya St (Gharafa, across the expressway from Landmark Shopping Mall. One of Doha's greatest malls, with 200 tenants and a Carrefour supermarket. Not all shops are open yet.
• The Gate Shopping Center, Omar AlMukhtar St (West Bay, near City Center Doha, +974 4407 7201. 280 shops with mostly luxury goods. The popular bistro 'Jones the Grocer' is also here.
• Hyatt Plaza, Hyatt Plaza Rd (Al Aziziyah, near Sports City and Villaggio Mall. This shopping mall is smaller than others, but as a plus it is always less crowded. There is a good sized food court and a large children's playland called "Jungle Zone."
• Lagoona Plaza, West Bay, Zone 66 (distinctive zigzag towers, near the Pearl-Qatar, +974 4433 5555. M-Sa. Mostly high-end luxury goods, with a Carrefour grocery store.
• Landmark Shopping Mall, Al Markhiya St (Gharafa, across the expressway from Ezdan Mall. Focuses mostly on clothing, jewellery, and cosmetics. There is also a Carrefour hypermarket for groceries.
• The Mall, Najma St and D Ring Rd. Tourists are better off going to any of the aforementioned locations if they wish to purchase store goods.
• Villaggio Shopping Mall, Al Aziziyah, +974 4422 7400. Near the Aspire Centre. The mall is designed to look like Venice in terms of architecture, and is home to many western stores, as well as a large Carrefour. The food court is home to several Western-style fast food restaurants, and several sit-down options. For entertainment, there is a long canal offering gondola rides (15 QR), an ice-skating rink (30 QR), and a cinema with 13 screens and one IMAX screen.

City Center Doha, Conference Centre St (West Bay. The largest shopping centre in Qatar. In West Bay, the modern part of the city on the northern end of the Corniche, it offers a large and diverse shopping experience, including several jewellery and perfume stores. For entertainment there is a large multiplex cinema, a bowling alley, a children's arcade, as well as an indoor ice skating rink. There are several eating options including two food courts and several sit-down restaurants. By western standards, this mall is quite dated for its age, but remains popular due to its large size and ideal location. Finally, the mall is home to a large Carrefour hypermarket.

Ezdan Mall, Al Markhiya St (Gharafa, across the expressway from Landmark Shopping Mall. One of Doha's greatest malls, with 200 tenants and a Carrefour supermarket. Not all shops are open yet.

The Gate Shopping Center, Omar AlMukhtar St (West Bay, near City Center Doha, +974 4407 7201. 280 shops with mostly luxury goods. The popular bistro 'Jones the Grocer' is also here.

Hyatt Plaza, Hyatt Plaza Rd (Al Aziziyah, near Sports City and Villaggio Mall. This shopping mall is smaller than others, but as a plus it is always less crowded. There is a good sized food court and a large children's playland called "Jungle Zone."

Lagoona Plaza, West Bay, Zone 66 (distinctive zigzag towers, near the Pearl-Qatar, +974 4433 5555. M-Sa. Mostly high-end luxury goods, with a Carrefour grocery store.

Landmark Shopping Mall, Al Markhiya St (Gharafa, across the expressway from Ezdan Mall. Focuses mostly on clothing, jewellery, and cosmetics. There is also a Carrefour hypermarket for groceries.

The Mall, Najma St and D Ring Rd. Tourists are better off going to any of the aforementioned locations if they wish to purchase store goods.

Villaggio Shopping Mall, Al Aziziyah, +974 4422 7400. Near the Aspire Centre. The mall is designed to look like Venice in terms of architecture, and is home to many western stores, as well as a large Carrefour. The food court is home to several Western-style fast food restaurants, and several sit-down options. For entertainment, there is a long canal offering gondola rides (15 QR), an ice-skating rink (30 QR), and a cinema with 13 screens and one IMAX screen.

The availability of English-language books in Doha is fairly limited but improving, and there are several shops which offer some current titles as well as regional travel guides. Carrefour, Lulu Hypermarket, and Megamart all sell international magazines and newspapers along with local maps.

• ISpy Book Shop, City Center Mall, Level 3 (West Bay, +974 4493 4482. Stocks a wide range of fiction and non-fiction books in English, and a small selection in French and German. Has a decent selection of travel guides and maps.
• Jarir Bookstore (Salwa), Salwa Rd (near the junction with C-Ring Rd, not far from the Radisson Blu, +974 4444 0212. Sa-Th 9AM-10PM; F 4PM-10PM. Sells Arabic and English language books, and a good selection of international magazines and newspapers. Also has a Costa coffee bar. There is a second branch near Education City, on Al Rayyan Al Jadeed Rd.
• Tribe Bookstore, Student Center, Education City, +974 4481 7196. Sa-Th 8AM-9PM. Carries fiction and non-fiction, as well as magazines and stationery. Special orders are welcome.
• Virgin Megastore, Villaggio Mall, +974 4413 5823. Stocks books and magazines in Arabic, English, and French. A second branch in Landmark Mall has a much smaller selection.
• WH Smith, Ezdan Mall. Doha's largest bookstore.

ISpy Book Shop, City Center Mall, Level 3 (West Bay, +974 4493 4482. Stocks a wide range of fiction and non-fiction books in English, and a small selection in French and German. Has a decent selection of travel guides and maps.

Jarir Bookstore (Salwa), Salwa Rd (near the junction with C-Ring Rd, not far from the Radisson Blu, +974 4444 0212. Sa-Th 9AM-10PM; F 4PM-10PM. Sells Arabic and English language books, and a good selection of international magazines and newspapers. Also has a Costa coffee bar. There is a second branch near Education City, on Al Rayyan Al Jadeed Rd.

Tribe Bookstore, Student Center, Education City, +974 4481 7196. Sa-Th 8AM-9PM. Carries fiction and non-fiction, as well as magazines and stationery. Special orders are welcome.

Virgin Megastore, Villaggio Mall, +974 4413 5823. Stocks books and magazines in Arabic, English, and French. A second branch in Landmark Mall has a much smaller selection.

WH Smith, Ezdan Mall. Doha's largest bookstore.

Given the population diversity in Doha, there is a large variety of different types of cuisine, including Indian, Thai, Chinese, Italian, Korean and, of course, typical Middle Eastern food. Since Qatar is a Muslim country, all food is certified halal. Zomato is a popular restaurant review site and Talibat is a common delivery site.

Most major American fast food chains have multiple branches here, including McDonald's, KFC, Hardee's, Arby's, Burger King, Subway, and Dairy Queen.

Pizza places include Pizza Hut, Little Caesar's, Pizza Inn, and Papa John's. Many of them are in the major shopping centres, and at Ramada Junction (the intersection of C-Ring and Salwa Rds).

There are also a number of more upscale American chains, including TGI Fridays (in the Landmark, Villaggio shopping malls, Bin Omran Opposite the Civil Defense and Suheem Bin Hamad Street, Al-Sadd), Applebee's, Chili's, Fuddruckers, Bennigan's, and Ponderosa Steakhouse.

• Ric's Kountry Kitchen, Sana Complex, Ras Abu Abboud St (southeast corner of Ras Abu Abboud St and D Ring Rd, +974 4443 7846. Serves up large classic American breakfasts, and one of the few places in Doha with real bacon and pork sausages.
• Yellow Cab Pizza, several branches, +974 4488 8310. 11AM-1AM daily. This is undisputedly the most popular pizza in Doha, surprisingly offered by a well-established and efficient Filipino operation. The barbequed chicken pizza is particularly tasty. Delivery and pick-up available.

Ric's Kountry Kitchen, Sana Complex, Ras Abu Abboud St (southeast corner of Ras Abu Abboud St and D Ring Rd, +974 4443 7846. Serves up large classic American breakfasts, and one of the few places in Doha with real bacon and pork sausages.

Yellow Cab Pizza, several branches, +974 4488 8310. 11AM-1AM daily. This is undisputedly the most popular pizza in Doha, surprisingly offered by a well-established and efficient Filipino operation. The barbequed chicken pizza is particularly tasty. Delivery and pick-up available.

• Noodle House, three locations, +974 4411 5063 (City Center Mall), +974 4417 5682 (Landmark Mall), +974 4495 3876 (The Pearl-Qatar Porto Arabia). noon-11PM. Offers a number of southeast Asian-style dishes. Their portions are not very large, but the taste makes up for that. Their prawn crackers are particularly good. Delivery available.
• Oishi Sushi, Al Sadd St (Royal Plaza Mall, +974 442 8989. Decent sushi, with sushi train. On Monday and Tuesday evenings they offer an all-you-can-eat for QR 135 (reservations recommended).
• Royal Bafilyon, Salwa Rd (behind the Al Jazeera petrol station, across from Quality Hypermarket, +974 7721 9865. This Cantonese restaurant is a favorite of the Chinese and Singaporean expat communities.
• Shanghai Garden, City Centre Mall (West Bay, +974 4493 3188. 11AM-11:30PM. Favored by local Chinese expats.
• Thai Corner, The Centre, Salwa Rd (adjacent to MegaMart, +974 6640 7858. Sa-Th 10:30AM-10PM, F 1:30PM-10PM. Tiny place with two tables, with fantastic Thai food. In nice weather you can eat in the courtyard.
• Thai Smile, Al Corniche (Rumaila Park, +976 4431 6466. Su-Th 11:30AM-10:30PM, F-Sa noon-10:30PM. Casual and delicious Thai street food, with outdoor seating.
• Thai Snack, Al-Mirqab St (near Doha Clinic, adjacent to a Thai massage parlor, +974 4432 9704. Daily 10AM-2:30PM, 5PM-10:30PM. A Doha institution, offers authentic Thai street food for very reasonable prices.
• Yee Hwa Restaurant, Al-Kinana St (in the Doha Downtown Hotel, +974 4441 9898. Daily noon-11PM. This restaurant specialises in Korean barbecue and Japanese cuisine, and is one of the better places in Doha for sushi.

Noodle House, three locations, +974 4411 5063 (City Center Mall), +974 4417 5682 (Landmark Mall), +974 4495 3876 (The Pearl-Qatar Porto Arabia). noon-11PM. Offers a number of southeast Asian-style dishes. Their portions are not very large, but the taste makes up for that. Their prawn crackers are particularly good. Delivery available.

Oishi Sushi, Al Sadd St (Royal Plaza Mall, +974 442 8989. Decent sushi, with sushi train. On Monday and Tuesday evenings they offer an all-you-can-eat for QR 135 (reservations recommended).

Royal Bafilyon, Salwa Rd (behind the Al Jazeera petrol station, across from Quality Hypermarket, +974 7721 9865. This Cantonese restaurant is a favorite of the Chinese and Singaporean expat communities.

Shanghai Garden, City Centre Mall (West Bay, +974 4493 3188. 11AM-11:30PM. Favored by local Chinese expats.

Thai Corner, The Centre, Salwa Rd (adjacent to MegaMart, +974 6640 7858. Sa-Th 10:30AM-10PM, F 1:30PM-10PM. Tiny place with two tables, with fantastic Thai food. In nice weather you can eat in the courtyard.

Thai Smile, Al Corniche (Rumaila Park, +976 4431 6466. Su-Th 11:30AM-10:30PM, F-Sa noon-10:30PM. Casual and delicious Thai street food, with outdoor seating.

Thai Snack, Al-Mirqab St (near Doha Clinic, adjacent to a Thai massage parlor, +974 4432 9704. Daily 10AM-2:30PM, 5PM-10:30PM. A Doha institution, offers authentic Thai street food for very reasonable prices.

Yee Hwa Restaurant, Al-Kinana St (in the Doha Downtown Hotel, +974 4441 9898. Daily noon-11PM. This restaurant specialises in Korean barbecue and Japanese cuisine, and is one of the better places in Doha for sushi.

• Ciao, Salwa Rd (near Decoration Roundabout, +974 4468 9100. 12:30PM-midnight. Offers thin-crust pizza baked in a traditional oven, along with a good selection of pastas and risottos.
• J&G Sandwich Cellar, Ras Abu Aboud St (near the C-Ring flyover, +974 4435 7559. Su-Th 7AM-10PM, F Sa 8AM-10PM. Doha's only British café, with full English breakfasts and Yorkshire pudding. Free Wi-Fi; delivery and takeout available.
• Lo Spaghetto, corner of Al Difaaf and Al Hamdani St (behind Royal Plaza Mall, Al Sadd, +974 4434 1601. 6:30PM-11PM. Classic Italian food, prepared by Italian chefs.
• Mykonos, Al Isteqlal Rd, West Bay (InterContinental Hotel, +974 4484 4444. Daily noon-11:30PM. Solid Greek food, outdoor pool-side seating available.

Ciao, Salwa Rd (near Decoration Roundabout, +974 4468 9100. 12:30PM-midnight. Offers thin-crust pizza baked in a traditional oven, along with a good selection of pastas and risottos.

J&G Sandwich Cellar, Ras Abu Aboud St (near the C-Ring flyover, +974 4435 7559. Su-Th 7AM-10PM, F Sa 8AM-10PM. Doha's only British café, with full English breakfasts and Yorkshire pudding. Free Wi-Fi; delivery and takeout available.

Lo Spaghetto, corner of Al Difaaf and Al Hamdani St (behind Royal Plaza Mall, Al Sadd, +974 4434 1601. 6:30PM-11PM. Classic Italian food, prepared by Italian chefs.

Mykonos, Al Isteqlal Rd, West Bay (InterContinental Hotel, +974 4484 4444. Daily noon-11:30PM. Solid Greek food, outdoor pool-side seating available.

Doha is home to a large Indian population. As such, the city centre is full of small Indian restaurants, with many other excellent Indian restaurants scattered throughout the city.

• Aalishan, Ibn Seena St (not far from the Radisson Blu, +974 4431 5999. Sa-W noon-11PM, Th F noon-11:30PM. Recommended for the Friday afternoon buffet.
• Al Zarka, Al Mahtuf St (near Qatar National Museum, Al Salata, +974 4432 0655, +974 5552 7338. 6AM-1AM. Very popular with South Asian workers as well as Qataris. Menu features primarily Indian as well as Arabian dishes.
• Anjappar Chettinad, Al Khaleej St, +974 4427 9833. Sa-Th 11:30AM-11:30PM; F 7AM-11AM, 12:30AM-11:30PM. Vegetarian, good value for the thali set menu.
• Bukhara, Khalifa St (opposite Bennigan's and Fuddruckers, by Khalifa Tennis Centre, +974 4483 3345. Daily noon-3:30PM, 6PM-1:30AM. Delicious northern Indian cuisine, with especially good fish tandoori and chicken vindaloo.
• Chingari, Radisson Blu (corner of C-Ring and Salwa Rds, +974 4428 1555. Daily 6PM-11PM. Expensive and good northern Indian food, with live Indian music on a small stage.
• Garden Annapoorna, Najma St, +974 6668 3856. It serves great south Indian dishes.
• The Garden Village Restaurant Doha, Fereej Kulaib St (opposite Yaarmuk Petrol Station & Nissan showroom, ahead of Al Ahli Hospital while going from Ramada signal, +974 4488 5115. Recommended for its good ambience and nice Indian village model interior.
• Taj Palace, Al Faisal St (near the corner of Al-Khaleej and Al Rayyan Rds, +974 4431 9200. Reasonable northern Indian food, worth trying if you're in the area.
• Taj Rasoi, Marriott Hotel (near the airport, +974 4429 8888. Daily 6:30PM-11:30PM. One of the most expensive (and excellent) Indian restaurants in Doha, and the place to go for Indian seafood.

Aalishan, Ibn Seena St (not far from the Radisson Blu, +974 4431 5999. Sa-W noon-11PM, Th F noon-11:30PM. Recommended for the Friday afternoon buffet.

Al Zarka, Al Mahtuf St (near Qatar National Museum, Al Salata, +974 4432 0655, +974 5552 7338. 6AM-1AM. Very popular with South Asian workers as well as Qataris. Menu features primarily Indian as well as Arabian dishes.

Anjappar Chettinad, Al Khaleej St, +974 4427 9833. Sa-Th 11:30AM-11:30PM; F 7AM-11AM, 12:30AM-11:30PM. Vegetarian, good value for the thali set menu.

Bukhara, Khalifa St (opposite Bennigan's and Fuddruckers, by Khalifa Tennis Centre, +974 4483 3345. Daily noon-3:30PM, 6PM-1:30AM. Delicious northern Indian cuisine, with especially good fish tandoori and chicken vindaloo.

Chingari, Radisson Blu (corner of C-Ring and Salwa Rds, +974 4428 1555. Daily 6PM-11PM. Expensive and good northern Indian food, with live Indian music on a small stage.

Garden Annapoorna, Najma St, +974 6668 3856. It serves great south Indian dishes.

The Garden Village Restaurant Doha, Fereej Kulaib St (opposite Yaarmuk Petrol Station & Nissan showroom, ahead of Al Ahli Hospital while going from Ramada signal, +974 4488 5115. Recommended for its good ambience and nice Indian village model interior.

Taj Palace, Al Faisal St (near the corner of Al-Khaleej and Al Rayyan Rds, +974 4431 9200. Reasonable northern Indian food, worth trying if you're in the area.

Taj Rasoi, Marriott Hotel (near the airport, +974 4429 8888. Daily 6:30PM-11:30PM. One of the most expensive (and excellent) Indian restaurants in Doha, and the place to go for Indian seafood.

• Al Shami Home Restaurant, C-Ring Rd (opposite from McDonald's, +974 4443 3666. 8AM-midnight daily. A Doha institution, featuring traditional Syrian and Lebanese dishes, and sheesha.
• Al Hamra, Al Rayan Rd (opposite from McDonald's, +974 4443 3297. 6AM-1AM daily. A family restaurant offering Lebanese dishes. Service is a bit slow, good for large groups.
• Al Mourjan, Al Corniche (white building behind the giant Orry statue. An upscale place with tasty Lebanese dishes and some of the best views in Doha.
• Ankara Pastry Restaurant, Ahmed Bin Ali St (across from Al-Ahli Hospital, +974 4487 1861. Good pastries and shwarmas, popular with Turkish expats.
• Istanbul Sultan, Mesaimeer Rd (near the left corner of the strip mall behind Abu Hamour Petrol Station. Very small place with great schwarmas.
• Layali, Salwa, +974 4431 0005. One of the more expensive Lebanese restaurants. It is rumored that the former Emir has eaten here on occasion.
• Shebestan Palace Restaurant, Al-Sadd St (east of C-Ring Rd, +974 4432 1555. noon-midnight daily. Good Persian food.
• Turkey Central, Al Mirqhab Al Jadeed St (off of C-Ring Rd, near the Doha Clinic, +974 4443 2927, +974 4442 3423. 8AM-12:30PM daily. Offers good, cheap Middle Eastern fare. The portions are large (try the mixed grill or shish tawooq) and the appetizers are excellent, particularly the chili labneh. Delivery and take-out available.

For local street food, nothing beats the home-made goodness dished out by the Pancake Ladies in Souq Waqif every evening in the square by the car park. The crepe-like mankouche is particularly tasty, filled with your choice of labneh (cheese), za’atar, or the less-traditional Nutella for QR5. Other local specialties feature meat, chicken, and fish, and there are even a couple of vegetarian options.

There are also many good restaurants in Souq Waqif worth trying. Perhaps the best include Tagine (Moroccan) and Le Gourmet, particularly good for sheesha and a cup of tea. These are not as inexpensive as the Pancake Ladies but are good for ambiance and people watching.

Al Shami Home Restaurant, C-Ring Rd (opposite from McDonald's, +974 4443 3666. 8AM-midnight daily. A Doha institution, featuring traditional Syrian and Lebanese dishes, and sheesha.

Al Hamra, Al Rayan Rd (opposite from McDonald's, +974 4443 3297. 6AM-1AM daily. A family restaurant offering Lebanese dishes. Service is a bit slow, good for large groups.

Al Mourjan, Al Corniche (white building behind the giant Orry statue. An upscale place with tasty Lebanese dishes and some of the best views in Doha.

Ankara Pastry Restaurant, Ahmed Bin Ali St (across from Al-Ahli Hospital, +974 4487 1861. Good pastries and shwarmas, popular with Turkish expats.

Istanbul Sultan, Mesaimeer Rd (near the left corner of the strip mall behind Abu Hamour Petrol Station. Very small place with great schwarmas.

Layali, Salwa, +974 4431 0005. One of the more expensive Lebanese restaurants. It is rumored that the former Emir has eaten here on occasion.

Shebestan Palace Restaurant, Al-Sadd St (east of C-Ring Rd, +974 4432 1555. noon-midnight daily. Good Persian food.

Turkey Central, Al Mirqhab Al Jadeed St (off of C-Ring Rd, near the Doha Clinic, +974 4443 2927, +974 4442 3423. 8AM-12:30PM daily. Offers good, cheap Middle Eastern fare. The portions are large (try the mixed grill or shish tawooq) and the appetizers are excellent, particularly the chili labneh. Delivery and take-out available.

• Best Fish, Al Mirqab Al Jadeed St, +974 4443 8507. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5:30PM-midnight daily. Popular with Qataris. Cheap local fish dishes - the grilled hammour with garlic butter is recommended. Take away and home delivery available.
• Fish Market, Al Isteqlal Rd, West Bay (InterContinental Hotel, +974 4484 4444. Sa-Th 6PM-noon, F 12:30PM-3:30PM. The best fish in town at upscale prices, much of it local. Reservations recommended, particularly for the Friday brunch.
• L'wzaar Seafood Market, Katara Cultural Village, Bldg 27, +974 4408 0710. Su-W noon-2:30PM, 7PM-10:30PM; Th-Sa 12:30PM-3:30PM, 7PM-11:30PM. A good selection of seafood, with good views. Reservations recommended.

Best Fish, Al Mirqab Al Jadeed St, +974 4443 8507. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5:30PM-midnight daily. Popular with Qataris. Cheap local fish dishes - the grilled hammour with garlic butter is recommended. Take away and home delivery available.

Fish Market, Al Isteqlal Rd, West Bay (InterContinental Hotel, +974 4484 4444. Sa-Th 6PM-noon, F 12:30PM-3:30PM. The best fish in town at upscale prices, much of it local. Reservations recommended, particularly for the Friday brunch.

L'wzaar Seafood Market, Katara Cultural Village, Bldg 27, +974 4408 0710. Su-W noon-2:30PM, 7PM-10:30PM; Th-Sa 12:30PM-3:30PM, 7PM-11:30PM. A good selection of seafood, with good views. Reservations recommended.

For self-catering options there are a few hypermarkets as well as a number of smaller neighborhood grocery stores distributed throughout the city.

• Carrefour. 8AM-midnight daily, closed F 11:30AM-12:30PM. This French-based chain has three hypermarkets in Doha: in Landmark Mall, Villaggio Mall, and City Center Mall. They also have a smaller grocery store in Lagoona Plaza.
• Family Food Centre. 7:30AM-midnight daily, closed F for midday prayer. Three branches on Al Matar St, Al Mirqab Al Jadeed St, and Al Rayyan.
• LuLu. 8AM-midnight daily, closed F for midday prayer. This UAE-based chain operates two full hypermarkets: on D-Ring Rd (near the airport) and in Al Gharrafa (across from Landmark Mall). There is also a smaller express store near Education City, and a branch has been opened in Al Messila.
• Mega Mart, The Centre, Salwa Rd (not far from the Radisson Blu (formerly Ramada) hotel. 8AM-11PM, closed F 11:30AM-12:30PM. Very popular with western expats as it imports a lot of products from America and Europe, but can be quite expensive. Also has a Costa Coffee nearby, as well as many smaller shops stocking cards, electronics and perfumes.
• Quality Hypermarket, Salwa Rd, +974 4460 4242. 7AM-1PM daily, closed F 11AM-noon.
• Spinney's. This Lebanese chain operates two standard grocery stores: one at the Pearl-Qatar (in Porto Arabia), and one at The Mall (D-Ring Rd).

Carrefour. 8AM-midnight daily, closed F 11:30AM-12:30PM. This French-based chain has three hypermarkets in Doha: in Landmark Mall, Villaggio Mall, and City Center Mall. They also have a smaller grocery store in Lagoona Plaza.

Family Food Centre. 7:30AM-midnight daily, closed F for midday prayer. Three branches on Al Matar St, Al Mirqab Al Jadeed St, and Al Rayyan.

LuLu. 8AM-midnight daily, closed F for midday prayer. This UAE-based chain operates two full hypermarkets: on D-Ring Rd (near the airport) and in Al Gharrafa (across from Landmark Mall). There is also a smaller express store near Education City, and a branch has been opened in Al Messila.

Mega Mart, The Centre, Salwa Rd (not far from the Radisson Blu (formerly Ramada) hotel. 8AM-11PM, closed F 11:30AM-12:30PM. Very popular with western expats as it imports a lot of products from America and Europe, but can be quite expensive. Also has a Costa Coffee nearby, as well as many smaller shops stocking cards, electronics and perfumes.

Quality Hypermarket, Salwa Rd, +974 4460 4242. 7AM-1PM daily, closed F 11AM-noon.

Spinney's. This Lebanese chain operates two standard grocery stores: one at the Pearl-Qatar (in Porto Arabia), and one at The Mall (D-Ring Rd).

Tipping at restaurants is not compulsory, although it has become fairly standard to tip about 10% to the waitstaff. Despite being banned, some restaurants still include a 10% service charge in the bill. Should your bill include a service charge, feel free to strike it from the total and leave a tip on the table instead.

Alcohol is strictly regulated in Qatar, as it is a Muslim country, and for visitors is only available in bars attached to large 5-star international hotels. Bars are required to see identification (i.e. a passport) at the door, although this is rarely enforced. Residents with a special liquor license may purchase alcohol at the QDC (Qatar Distribution Company) on the outskirts of town. Importing alcohol is not permitted – all bags are x-rayed upon arrival and any alcohol will be confiscated and held for you. With a claims receipt you can pick up your bottle again when you leave.

Some of the places favoured by local expats are the Crystal Lounge and Waham Poolside Lounge (W Doha Hotel), Sky View Bar (La Cigale Hotel), the Belgian Café (InterContinental at West Bay Lagoon), and Trader Vic's (Hilton). The Irish Harp (in the basement of the Sheraton near City Center Mall) has frequent live music.

Karak is the local specialty, a very sweet concoction made from tea and evaporated milk available from stalls everywhere, some of them drive-through (just park your car outside and honk). A particularly popular place is Chapati & Karak at Katara Cultural Village.

Most international coffee chains (including the ubiquitous Starbucks) are well-represented here, especially in shopping malls.

• PappaRoti, C Ring Rd, +974 4421 2001. Daily noon-midnight. This branch of the popular Malaysian café chain offers a good selection of coffee and teas, along with special roti buns.

PappaRoti, C Ring Rd, +974 4421 2001. Daily noon-midnight. This branch of the popular Malaysian café chain offers a good selection of coffee and teas, along with special roti buns.

If you need emergency medical treatment, the government-owned Hamad General Hospital provides A&E (accident and emergency) care to everyone regardless of insurance status, and has the most advanced and best-equipped facility. Other smaller, private hospitals will charge for any emergency services.

999 is the emergency number for ambulance, police, and fire service. You will likely need to give directions or a nearby landmark. Response times in Doha are dependent on traffic, and there have been reports of long waits for ambulances, along with long waits for English-speaking operators. Medical teams however are highly skilled and all fluent in English.

HMC operates A&E departments at the medical centers listed below.

• Hamad General Hospital, Hamad Medical City, Al Rayyan Rd, +974 4439 4444. 24 hours.
• Abu-Bakr Al-Sidiq Health Center, Furousiya St (Al Rayyan, +974 4468 1792.
• Airport Health Center, Al Matar St (Old Airport, near Family Food Center, +974 4467 5633.
• Umm Ghuwailina Health Center, Simaisma St, +974 4443 3892.
• Al Rayyan Health Center, Furousiya St, +974 4481 2668.

Hamad General Hospital, Hamad Medical City, Al Rayyan Rd, +974 4439 4444. 24 hours.

Abu-Bakr Al-Sidiq Health Center, Furousiya St (Al Rayyan, +974 4468 1792.

Airport Health Center, Al Matar St (Old Airport, near Family Food Center, +974 4467 5633.

Umm Ghuwailina Health Center, Simaisma St, +974 4443 3892.

Al Rayyan Health Center, Furousiya St, +974 4481 2668.

Pre-paid SIM cards and top-up cards for Ooredoo and Vodafone can be purchased at mobile phone shops, as well as at Carrefour and Lulu hypermarkets.

Free Wi-Fi is available in Souq Waqif, public parks including the Sheraton Park and Rumaila Park, and along the Corniche. Some coffee shops also offer free connection. Ooredoo HotSpots are scattered throughout Doha, mainly in hotels and cafés. HotSpot cards in denominations of QR 30, 50, and 70 are available in any Ooredoo shop.

For especially large denominations or more unusual currencies it is best to call beforehand to ensure the centre has the desired currency and amount on hand.

• Lari Exchange, Souq Ahmed bin Ali (entrance on Al Teeb St, +974 4441 9010.
• Aldar Exchange.
• Al Zaman Exchange, +974 4444 1448. Su-Th 7:30AM-2PM, 2:15PM-9:30PM; F 3:30PM-8:30PM.
• Travelex, Doha International Airport (in Terminal B Departures area, near Costa Coffee before passport control, +974 4462 0850. Daily 24-hr. It is possible to reserve the currency online for pickup at the airport; pickup and delivery are also available.

Lari Exchange, Souq Ahmed bin Ali (entrance on Al Teeb St, +974 4441 9010.

Aldar Exchange.

Al Zaman Exchange, +974 4444 1448. Su-Th 7:30AM-2PM, 2:15PM-9:30PM; F 3:30PM-8:30PM.

Travelex, Doha International Airport (in Terminal B Departures area, near Costa Coffee before passport control, +974 4462 0850. Daily 24-hr. It is possible to reserve the currency online for pickup at the airport; pickup and delivery are also available.

Being the national capital, Doha hosts a large number of embassies. A majority of them are clustered in the West Bay District (especially the Diplomatic Area) and in the adjacent Al Dafna, Onaiza 65 and Onaiza Districts. There are others in other parts of the city as well. Due to an ongoing diplomatic crises over several issues Bahrain, Egypt, Saudi Arabia and United Arab Emirates had suspended diplomatic ties, closed their embassies and recall their respective ambassadors. If corresponding by mail/post use the PO Box address given as mail is only sent to a PO Box instead of a street address. If delivering to a street address with DHL, FedEx, UPS or another private courier be sure to include recipient's phone number so that the delivery driver can call for directions or clarification on the address:

• Australia Australia, 21st Floor, Tornado Tower, Majlis Al Taawon St, +974 4007-8500. Su-Th 8:30AM-4:00PM.
• Austria Austria, Palm Tower B, Level 33, PO Box 12011 (West Bay, +974 4421 5541, +974 4421 5574. Su-Th 9AM-11AM.
• Bahrain Bahrain, Al Dafna, Anaizah Street, Section 66, PO Box 24888, +974 4483-9360, +974 4483-9370. Closed due to ongoing diplomatic dispute between Qatar and its Gulf State neighbours.
• Bangladesh Bangladesh, Bldg No. 153, Street #820, Zone-43; PO Box 2080, +974 4467-1927. Su-Th 7:30AM-12:30PM to receive documents; 1:15PM-2:30PM to return processed documents.
• Canada Canada, Tornado Tower, PO Box 24876 (corner of Majlis Al Taawon St and Al Funduq St, +974 4419-9000. by appointment only. Not all consular services are provided by this mission; the nearest regular embassy is in Kuwait.
• China China, Bldg No. 250, Street #801, Zone-66; PO Box 7200, +974 4493-4203. Su Tu Th 8:30AM-noon.
• Ethiopia Ethiopia, Al Katifia No, 66 Al-Dafna, PO Box 24856, +974 4020-7000. Su-Th 9AM-4PM.
• France France, West Bay, PO Box 2669 (Diplomatic Area, +974 4402 1777, +974 4402 1755 (Emergencies). Su-Th 8AM-noon.
• Germany Germany, 12, Al Jazira Al Arabiya St, PO Box 3064, +974 4408 2300, +974 5552 6672 (Emergencies). Su-Th 8AM-11AM.
• Greece Greece, PO Box 15721, +974 4412-8150, +974 3305-1796 (Emergencies).
• India India, Villa No 86 & 90, Street No. 941, Al Eithra Street, Zone 63, Onaiza,, +974 4425-5777. Su-Th 9AM-5:30PM.
• Iran Iran, Dafneh, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 1633, +974 4483-1550, +974 4483-5300, +974 4483-1950.
• Iraq Iraq, Dafna, West Side, Diplomatic Area, Street 509, # 9, P.O. Box 1526, +974 4421-6730.
• Japan Japan, West Bay, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 2208, +974 4484-0888. Su-Th 8:30AM-3PM (8:30AM-1:30PM during Ramadan).
• Jordan Jordan, Diplomatic Area, West Bay, P.O. Box 2366, +974 4483-2202, +974 4483-2203.
• Kuwait Kuwait, West Bay Al Dafna, PO Box 1177, +974 4483-2111.
• South Korea South Korea, West Bay, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 3727, +974 4483-2238, +974 4483-2239. Su-Th 7:30AM-noon and 1PM-3PM (9AM-2PM during Ramadan).
• Oman Oman, Bldg 18, Area 66, Al-Dafna, Diplomatic Area, +974 4493-1514, +974 4493-1910.
• Pakistan Pakistan, Plot No. 30, Diplomatic Area, West Bay, +974 4483-2525, +974 4483-2535. Su-Th 8AM-3PM.
• Philippines Philippines, St. No. 860 Jelaiah Area, Doha, +974 4493-0426, +974 4498-6477, +974 4483-2560. Su-Th 7AM-4PM. The Overseas Labor Office is at the corner of Al Furat & Al Quosoun St, Zone 66, Onaiza; and
• Russia Russian Federation, Area №66, Street №804, Villa No. 8., New Doha (Qatifiya), PO Box 15404, +974 4483-6231, +974 4483-6821.
• Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia, Diplomatic Area, Gulf Arabia, P.O. Box 1255, +974 4483-2030, +974 4483-2713. Closed due to ongoing diplomatic dispute between Qatar and its Gulf State neighbours.
• Singapore Singapore, New West Bay Area, PO Box 24497 (off of Lusail St, +974 4412 8082, +974 4412 8083, +974 6673 6152 (Emergencies). Su-Th 8:30AM-3:30PM.
• South Africa South Africa, Stand 801, Saha 570, Plot 5 (West Bay Lagoon, +974 4485 7111.
• Spain Spain, Lusail Street (Al- Isteqlal Aven), West Bay, PO Box 24616, +974 4483-5886.
• Switzerland Switzerland, Villa 60, Wadi al Humra Street 807, Area 66, Al Dafna, P.O. Box 23745, +974 4020-3400.
• Turkey Turkey, Al Katifiya Zone 66, Al Rabwa Street 310, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 1977, +974 4495-1300. Su-Th 9AM-4PM; they stop accepting applications at noon.
• United Kingdom United Kingdom, Level 16, Gateway Building, 1 Macquarie Place, +974 4496 2000. Su 11AM-2PM, M-Th 8AM-11AM.
• United Arab Emirates United Arab Emirates, Diplomatic Quarters, West Bay, PO Box 3099, +974 4483-8880. Closed due to ongoing diplomatic dispute between Qatar and its Gulf State neighbours.
• United States United States, 22nd February St, Al Luqta District, PO Box 2399, +974 4488-4101, +974 4488-4101 (x 6117 ACS voicemail), +974 4496-6000 (Emergencies).

Australia Australia, 21st Floor, Tornado Tower, Majlis Al Taawon St, +974 4007-8500. Su-Th 8:30AM-4:00PM.

Austria Austria, Palm Tower B, Level 33, PO Box 12011 (West Bay, +974 4421 5541, +974 4421 5574. Su-Th 9AM-11AM.

Bahrain Bahrain, Al Dafna, Anaizah Street, Section 66, PO Box 24888, +974 4483-9360, +974 4483-9370. Closed due to ongoing diplomatic dispute between Qatar and its Gulf State neighbours.

Bangladesh Bangladesh, Bldg No. 153, Street #820, Zone-43; PO Box 2080, +974 4467-1927. Su-Th 7:30AM-12:30PM to receive documents; 1:15PM-2:30PM to return processed documents.

Canada Canada, Tornado Tower, PO Box 24876 (corner of Majlis Al Taawon St and Al Funduq St, +974 4419-9000. by appointment only. Not all consular services are provided by this mission; the nearest regular embassy is in Kuwait.

China China, Bldg No. 250, Street #801, Zone-66; PO Box 7200, +974 4493-4203. Su Tu Th 8:30AM-noon.

Ethiopia Ethiopia, Al Katifia No, 66 Al-Dafna, PO Box 24856, +974 4020-7000. Su-Th 9AM-4PM.

France France, West Bay, PO Box 2669 (Diplomatic Area, +974 4402 1777, +974 4402 1755 (Emergencies). Su-Th 8AM-noon.

Germany Germany, 12, Al Jazira Al Arabiya St, PO Box 3064, +974 4408 2300, +974 5552 6672 (Emergencies). Su-Th 8AM-11AM.

Greece Greece, PO Box 15721, +974 4412-8150, +974 3305-1796 (Emergencies).

India India, Villa No 86 & 90, Street No. 941, Al Eithra Street, Zone 63, Onaiza,, +974 4425-5777. Su-Th 9AM-5:30PM.

Iran Iran, Dafneh, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 1633, +974 4483-1550, +974 4483-5300, +974 4483-1950.

Iraq Iraq, Dafna, West Side, Diplomatic Area, Street 509, # 9, P.O. Box 1526, +974 4421-6730.

Japan Japan, West Bay, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 2208, +974 4484-0888. Su-Th 8:30AM-3PM (8:30AM-1:30PM during Ramadan).

Jordan Jordan, Diplomatic Area, West Bay, P.O. Box 2366, +974 4483-2202, +974 4483-2203.

Kuwait Kuwait, West Bay Al Dafna, PO Box 1177, +974 4483-2111.

South Korea South Korea, West Bay, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 3727, +974 4483-2238, +974 4483-2239. Su-Th 7:30AM-noon and 1PM-3PM (9AM-2PM during Ramadan).

Oman Oman, Bldg 18, Area 66, Al-Dafna, Diplomatic Area, +974 4493-1514, +974 4493-1910.

Pakistan Pakistan, Plot No. 30, Diplomatic Area, West Bay, +974 4483-2525, +974 4483-2535. Su-Th 8AM-3PM.

Philippines Philippines, St. No. 860 Jelaiah Area, Doha, +974 4493-0426, +974 4498-6477, +974 4483-2560. Su-Th 7AM-4PM. The Overseas Labor Office is at the corner of Al Furat & Al Quosoun St, Zone 66, Onaiza; and

Russia Russian Federation, Area №66, Street №804, Villa No. 8., New Doha (Qatifiya), PO Box 15404, +974 4483-6231, +974 4483-6821.

Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia, Diplomatic Area, Gulf Arabia, P.O. Box 1255, +974 4483-2030, +974 4483-2713. Closed due to ongoing diplomatic dispute between Qatar and its Gulf State neighbours.

Singapore Singapore, New West Bay Area, PO Box 24497 (off of Lusail St, +974 4412 8082, +974 4412 8083, +974 6673 6152 (Emergencies). Su-Th 8:30AM-3:30PM.

South Africa South Africa, Stand 801, Saha 570, Plot 5 (West Bay Lagoon, +974 4485 7111.

Spain Spain, Lusail Street (Al- Isteqlal Aven), West Bay, PO Box 24616, +974 4483-5886.

Switzerland Switzerland, Villa 60, Wadi al Humra Street 807, Area 66, Al Dafna, P.O. Box 23745, +974 4020-3400.

Turkey Turkey, Al Katifiya Zone 66, Al Rabwa Street 310, Diplomatic Area, PO Box 1977, +974 4495-1300. Su-Th 9AM-4PM; they stop accepting applications at noon.

United Kingdom United Kingdom, Level 16, Gateway Building, 1 Macquarie Place, +974 4496 2000. Su 11AM-2PM, M-Th 8AM-11AM.

United Arab Emirates United Arab Emirates, Diplomatic Quarters, West Bay, PO Box 3099, +974 4483-8880. Closed due to ongoing diplomatic dispute between Qatar and its Gulf State neighbours.

United States United States, 22nd February St, Al Luqta District, PO Box 2399, +974 4488-4101, +974 4488-4101 (x 6117 ACS voicemail), +974 4496-6000 (Emergencies).

• Doha News, a daily news blog staffed by journalists formerly with Al Jazeera English, the BBC, and the Wall Street Journal. This is the most reliable and unbiased source for local news.
• The Peninsula, also available in print.
• Gulf Times, also available in print.
• Marhaba lists current and upcoming events and exhibits in Doha.
• Al Jazeera English provides good regional coverage, but only rarely covers events within Qatar itself.
• BBC World Service broadcasts locally on 107.4MHz.

• Singing Sand Dunes. In the desert 40 km southwest of Doha are the so-called Singing Sand Dunes. This is one of 30 sites in the world with "singing" sand, once attributed to evil djinn. When the humidity is low and the wind blows along the sand, an eerie humming sound can be heard, which can be amplified by running across the sand, or by sledding down it. Large plastic bags (e.g. garbage bags) or large pieces of cardboard work particularly well for this. The dunes are a bit off road and can be tricky to find. Head SW of Doha on Salwa Rd; after about 13 km you will pass a large roundabout; after you come to the Mobil Petrol station make a U-turn and turn right on Messaieed Road. Drive past two roundabouts, then take the next right. Take the left fork at the T-junction, and you will see the dunes on your right. It is possible to make the trip in a 2WD, but a 4WD is better to get close to the bottom of the dunes. Free.

There are a number of karst caves in Qatar, the most well-known of them a short distance from Doha. All caves have not been fully explored, and it is believed that there is an extensive network of tunnels connecting many of them.

• Dhal Al Misfir. The most well-known of Qatar's caves, this 40 m-deep formation contains fibrous, faintly phosphorescent gypsum crystals. There is also a resident flock of cave-dwelling Little Owls (Athene noctua). For safety reasons the site is surrounded by a chainlink fence but the gate is unlocked and visitors may enter freely.
• Mudhlem Cave, Mukaynis (south of Salwa Rd near Earth Satellite Station. A 150 m-deep cave not far from the Misfir Sinkhole. The mouth is about 15m wide and there is a pool of brackish water at the bottom, which was once used as a source of drinking water by the local Bedouin. The cave is now a popular geocache site.

Dhal Al Misfir. The most well-known of Qatar's caves, this 40 m-deep formation contains fibrous, faintly phosphorescent gypsum crystals. There is also a resident flock of cave-dwelling Little Owls (Athene noctua). For safety reasons the site is surrounded by a chainlink fence but the gate is unlocked and visitors may enter freely.

Mudhlem Cave, Mukaynis (south of Salwa Rd near Earth Satellite Station. A 150 m-deep cave not far from the Misfir Sinkhole. The mouth is about 15m wide and there is a pool of brackish water at the bottom, which was once used as a source of drinking water by the local Bedouin. The cave is now a popular geocache site.

If you want to get out of the city, the desert awaits. Whereas you could take your rental car out to the sand dunes, unless you are familiar with the route or GPS, you run the risk of damaging your rental car and getting lost. The alternative is to go through one of Qatar's many licensed tour companies, which can arrange a trip. Additionally, there are a handful of sights outside of Doha which can only be accessed with prior government permission, which a tour company can arrange on your behalf. This will cost you several hundred Qatari riyals, and may require a minimum of four persons to join in the fun. At international hotels, the receptionists can advise you, and hire a driver for you. Otherwise, there are several tour companies that can arrange a trip by phone or via their website.

Beyond sand dune trips, several of these companies can arrange for overnight desert camping, excursions to historical sites, and city tours.

• Al Jasra Travel, 25 Ibn Dirham St (Al Mansoura, +974 4443 0737.
• Arabian Adventures, Al Asmakh St, +974 4436 1461.
• Black Pearl Tourism, Al Sadd St, Bin Jeham Al Kuwari Complex (Al Sadd, +974 4435 7333.
• Gulf Adventures Tourism, 29 Aspire Zone St (Al Rayyan, +974 4422 1888.
• Qatar Inbound Tours, Concord Qatar, Rawdat Al Khail, Doha, +974 77451196, +974 55531002.
• Qatar International Adventures, Al Matar Al Qadeem St (Old Airport, +974 455 3954.
• Qatar International Tours, Al Hail Bldg, Matar St (Old Airport, +974 4455 1141.
• Qatar Ventures, Barwa Village Bldg 12, Shop 33, +974 4016 4750.
• Regency Travel and Tours, Sheikh Suhaim Bin Hamad St (Al Sadd, +974 4434 4444.
• Desert Safari Doha, La Villa Building Old Salata (Doha, +974 5569 4194.

Al Jasra Travel, 25 Ibn Dirham St (Al Mansoura, +974 4443 0737.

Arabian Adventures, Al Asmakh St, +974 4436 1461.

Black Pearl Tourism, Al Sadd St, Bin Jeham Al Kuwari Complex (Al Sadd, +974 4435 7333.

Gulf Adventures Tourism, 29 Aspire Zone St (Al Rayyan, +974 4422 1888.

Qatar Inbound Tours, Concord Qatar, Rawdat Al Khail, Doha, +974 77451196, +974 55531002.

Qatar International Adventures, Al Matar Al Qadeem St (Old Airport, +974 455 3954.

Qatar International Tours, Al Hail Bldg, Matar St (Old Airport, +974 4455 1141.

Qatar Ventures, Barwa Village Bldg 12, Shop 33, +974 4016 4750.

Regency Travel and Tours, Sheikh Suhaim Bin Hamad St (Al Sadd, +974 4434 4444.

Desert Safari Doha, La Villa Building Old Salata (Doha, +974 5569 4194.

• Qatar Marine, Villagio & City Center Mall, +974 5531 9507.
• Doha Sub Aqua Club, off Ras Abu Abboud (near Sharq Village and Spa, +974 6630 4061. A branch of the British Sub Aqua Club, offers a range of diving courses based on BSAC qualifications. Also arranges shore dives and offshore wreck dives weekly.
• Q-Dive Marine Center, Souq Al Najada, +974 33139969. Offers a full range of diving services, including equipment sales and rental and PADI dive courses. Arranges diving, snorkeling and fishing trips.
• Qatar Divers, Doha Marriott Hotel, +974 4431 3331. Offers a full range of PADI courses, and organizes dives around Qatar.

Qatar Marine, Villagio & City Center Mall, +974 5531 9507.

Doha Sub Aqua Club, off Ras Abu Abboud (near Sharq Village and Spa, +974 6630 4061. A branch of the British Sub Aqua Club, offers a range of diving courses based on BSAC qualifications. Also arranges shore dives and offshore wreck dives weekly.

Q-Dive Marine Center, Souq Al Najada, +974 33139969. Offers a full range of diving services, including equipment sales and rental and PADI dive courses. Arranges diving, snorkeling and fishing trips.

Qatar Divers, Doha Marriott Hotel, +974 4431 3331. Offers a full range of PADI courses, and organizes dives around Qatar.

Doha is by far the biggest city in Qatar, but the country's other towns can provide an interesting glimpse of Qatari life outside of the bustle of Doha.

Head west to see the camel races, and then visit the Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani Museum in Al Shahaniyah. Drive south to visit the dhow harbor in Al Wakrah, and then hit the beach and go dune bashing near Mesaieed. Or drive north to see the fortress and prehistoric gravemounds near Umm Salal Muhammad, and continue on to kayak through the mangrove forests near Al Khor.

Singing Sand Dunes. In the desert 40 km southwest of Doha are the so-called Singing Sand Dunes. This is one of 30 sites in the world with "singing" sand, once attributed to evil djinn. When the humidity is low and the wind blows along the sand, an eerie humming sound can be heard, which can be amplified by running across the sand, or by sledding down it. Large plastic bags (e.g. garbage bags) or large pieces of cardboard work particularly well for this. The dunes are a bit off road and can be tricky to find. Head SW of Doha on Salwa Rd; after about 13 km you will pass a large roundabout; after you come to the Mobil Petrol station make a U-turn and turn right on Messaieed Road. Drive past two roundabouts, then take the next right. Take the left fork at the T-junction, and you will see the dunes on your right. It is possible to make the trip in a 2WD, but a 4WD is better to get close to the bottom of the dunes. Free.