Geoje

Geoje(거제, 巨濟, also Geoje-do, pronounced "Go-je"), formerly romanised as Koje, is an island in South Gyeongsang province, South Korea.

Dubbing itself the "Blue City", Geoje is more of an island than a city. It is in fact Korea's second largest island (only Jeju is larger) with a loose collection of villages and settlements scattered in coves around the coastline. The two largest of these are Okpo (옥포) on the east coast and Gohyeon (고현) on the west. Most of the tourist sites lie between these two settlements around, and just off, the southern coastline. The intercity bus terminal is in Gohyeon but services also run from the odd remote bus stop.

The key attraction of the island is its natural coastal beauty. Outside of the two cities it is a near-endless series of calm blue beached coves and sheer pine-forested grey cliffs overlooking the sea.

Geoje has played a significant role in Korea's naval history. The coast of Okpo is the setting for one of Korea's greatest military victories over Japan during early stages of the 1592-1598 Imjin War. United under Admiral Yi Sun-sin, Korean armor-plated turtleships repelled Japanese attackers from taking the Jeolla region. Although this ultimately did not stop the war in its tracks, it did slow the invasion a little and provided a morale boost to the nation.

Today, Geoje is a shipbuilding powerhouse hosting both Samsung and DSME shipyards. Despite the large number of foreign residents employed to supervise these facilities and subsequent notably high foreign presence in Okpo and Gohyeon, English signage on the island varies between minimal and non-existent.

• Haegeumgang. Designated "Korean National Scenic Site #2, this is a must-see location. Essentially just a locally famed island consisting of tall cliffs. However, the ferry cruise around the island will thread its way through the extremely thin cliffs leading into the island into a sea cave before backing out and departing through different route. Spectacular. Round-trip 3-hour cruises including both Haegeumgang and a 1½-hour stopover on Oedo from Jangseungpo will set you back ₩19,000 for an adult and ₩12,000 for a child. A ₩2000 won discount applies in the off-peak season. Admittance on to Oedo incurs an extra fee and inability to pay will leave you at the boat twiddling your thumbs.
• Oedo Island. Typically included in cruises to Haegumgang, this is Korea's first privately owned island and host to the Oedo Botanica. It's somewhat of a cross between a botanical garden and one of East Asia's infamous "country-themed theme parks" and designed to make you think you're somewhere in the Mediterranean. Beautifully landscaped and covered with Greco-Roman statues. It's a bit prettier than the brochure describes as the gardens follow a tight valley surrounded by sheer cliffs. Take a detour to the bathroom as the off-the-path views from outside a couple of them are among the best on the island. Conceived by a couple that crossed the 38th parallel after the war quite literally penniless. Worth the trip and has a restaurant and coffee shop at the highest point that mostly only serves tea (Udon ₩4,000 won, coffee ₩4,000, tea ₩2,500). Admittance ₩8000 adults, ₩4000 children..
• Camellia Island.
• Great Victory Park. Closes 6pm. A war memorial for the 1592-1593 naval battle against the Japanese. Next door lies a shrine to Admiral Yi who lead the Korean forces to victory, plus a small museum explaining the details of the war and Korean naval strategies. English explanations exist, although when browsing try to keep count of how often you read extremely biased language (answer: a lot). Free.
• Windy Hill and Shinseondae. A picturesque cliff side hill with a windmill on one side and a bunch of purple-green cliffs you can climb down on to on the other side. There is also a Theme Museum here. The themes are "Korean modern life" and "European decorative art" (aka mannequins of pirates). The intercity buses to Tongyeong and Masan depart from here.

Haegeumgang. Designated "Korean National Scenic Site #2, this is a must-see location. Essentially just a locally famed island consisting of tall cliffs. However, the ferry cruise around the island will thread its way through the extremely thin cliffs leading into the island into a sea cave before backing out and departing through different route. Spectacular. Round-trip 3-hour cruises including both Haegeumgang and a 1½-hour stopover on Oedo from Jangseungpo will set you back ₩19,000 for an adult and ₩12,000 for a child. A ₩2000 won discount applies in the off-peak season. Admittance on to Oedo incurs an extra fee and inability to pay will leave you at the boat twiddling your thumbs.

Oedo Island. Typically included in cruises to Haegumgang, this is Korea's first privately owned island and host to the Oedo Botanica. It's somewhat of a cross between a botanical garden and one of East Asia's infamous "country-themed theme parks" and designed to make you think you're somewhere in the Mediterranean. Beautifully landscaped and covered with Greco-Roman statues. It's a bit prettier than the brochure describes as the gardens follow a tight valley surrounded by sheer cliffs. Take a detour to the bathroom as the off-the-path views from outside a couple of them are among the best on the island. Conceived by a couple that crossed the 38th parallel after the war quite literally penniless. Worth the trip and has a restaurant and coffee shop at the highest point that mostly only serves tea (Udon ₩4,000 won, coffee ₩4,000, tea ₩2,500). Admittance ₩8000 adults, ₩4000 children..

Camellia Island.

Great Victory Park. Closes 6pm. A war memorial for the 1592-1593 naval battle against the Japanese. Next door lies a shrine to Admiral Yi who lead the Korean forces to victory, plus a small museum explaining the details of the war and Korean naval strategies. English explanations exist, although when browsing try to keep count of how often you read extremely biased language (answer: a lot). Free.

Windy Hill and Shinseondae. A picturesque cliff side hill with a windmill on one side and a bunch of purple-green cliffs you can climb down on to on the other side. There is also a Theme Museum here. The themes are "Korean modern life" and "European decorative art" (aka mannequins of pirates). The intercity buses to Tongyeong and Masan depart from here.

• Geoje Art Center, Jangseunpo (Take the number 11 bus from Okpo.. A theatre on Geoje, check local schedules. There is a hotel attached to the art center.

Geoje Art Center, Jangseunpo (Take the number 11 bus from Okpo.. A theatre on Geoje, check local schedules. There is a hotel attached to the art center.

Being Korea, Geoje is covered with hiking trails.

If just looking for a casual stroll, the 4-km long trail from Okpo to Deokpo is very pleasant and consists of trails along the coast through pine forest and segments along a red boardwalk where you can see older ladies foraging for shellfish for the local restaurants. Passes by the Great Victory Park and Deokpo at the end hosts a couple of hoe 회 (sashimi) restaurants and a coffee shop for refreshments. One of the restaurants doesn't welcome foreigners, but the one two doors down does and is actually quite literally signposted that way. Starting point is at the north end of Okpo port, look for the ruined theme park on the cliffs.

Geoje has a tonne of swimming beaches around its coast.

• Hakdong Black Pearl Pebble Beach. Just a rocky pebble beach.
• Deokpo Beach. A very small sand beach just outside Okpo.
• Gujora and Wahyeon Beaches. A pair of large sand beaches overlooking some pine-covered islets. Gujora town is rather interesting too as the locals have undertaken a project to paint art on every wall in the town yielding rather pretty results.

Hakdong Black Pearl Pebble Beach. Just a rocky pebble beach.

Deokpo Beach. A very small sand beach just outside Okpo.

Gujora and Wahyeon Beaches. A pair of large sand beaches overlooking some pine-covered islets. Gujora town is rather interesting too as the locals have undertaken a project to paint art on every wall in the town yielding rather pretty results.

Being a largely coastal destination, hoe 회 (raw fish, similar to sashimi) restaurants are plentiful and delicious.

Furthermore, Geoje city council proclaims the island has 8 signature dishes:

• Dodari Ssukguk (도다리 쑥국)
• Meonggeye and Seonggeye Bibimbap (멍게 선게 비빔밥)
• Gul Gui (굴구이) - An oyster dish.
• Eo Juk (어 죽)
• Sliced Raw Fish (생성회) - Sashimi.
• Mulmegi Tang (물메기탕)
• Bolrak Gui (볼락구이)
• Daegu Tang (대구탕)

Geoje also has a large migrant population, so you can also find many international restaurants that may be hard to come by elsewhere in Korea. (e.g. Pakistani)

The usual array of bars and hofs exist in the major townships of Okpo and Gohyeon.

The two bridges from the island lead to Tongyeong and Busan, each approximately an hour away and with bus links to Tongyeong typically stopping briefly before continuing on to Masan.

From Tongyeong or Masan, the beautiful riverside fortress and delicious food of Jinju or the dinosaur fossil towns of Goseong are a short bus ride away.