Port Moresby

Port Moresby (Tok Pisin: Pot Mosbi) is the capital of Papua New Guinea. It is the gateway to PNG, and almost all visitors to the country pass through the city. While it has a daunting reputation due to high crime rates, almost all of the locals are welcoming and there are some interesting sights.

Port Moresby is the capital and largest city of Papua New Guinea (PNG). The city is on the shores of the Gulf of Papua. Its population is around 300,000 and growing quickly. The indigenous people of the area are the Motu-Koitabu. Moresby, as it is commonly known, got its name from Captain John Moresby who arrived in 1873 as the first European visitor.

The city is quite spread out. The original colonial settlement was by the sea and this is still the port area, as well as the main business and banking district. On the hills above are upmarket residences. Closer to the airport, separated from the original town by hills, is Waigani, a 1970s development built to house the Government offices of the newly Independent (September 16, 1975) country of Papua New Guinea. Nearby are the housing areas of Boroko and Gordons, which also contain most of the large stores.

• Port Moresby Nature Park (formerly National Capital Botanical Gardens). A must for the visitor. Has some amazing examples of PNG wildlife such as birds of paradise, a couple of casowaris, and several other native birds. If you are lucky you might catch a wedding while you are there as some locals like to conduct the ceremony in the gardens. On the same road is the National Orchid Garden which is also well worth a look - it is planned to encompass a zoological garden in the future.
• Papua New Guinea National Museum & Art Gallery, Independence Drive, Waigani (Next to the National Parliament House, +675 325 2458. M-Sat 9am-3pm, Sun 1-3PM. PNG's national museum has a relatively small, but fascinating, collection which includes wonderful sculptures, beads, traditional boats and cultural objects. The exhibits are well displayed, and housed in an architecturally interesting building. Photography is not permitted inside the museum but there are newer objects outside, along with some remains from WW2 in varying states of decay including planes and tanks. Free during the week, 10K at weekends.
• Bomana War Cemetery, 9 Mile (19 kilometres north of Port Moresby on the road to Nine Mile, approached from the main road by a short side road called Pilgrims Way. 9AM-4PM. A beautiful maintained cemetery, home to 3,824 Commonwealth burials from WW2. It is the resting place of many Australian soldiers from the Kokoda Trail, plus some of the Papuan Battalion in the last two rows. A nurse in the third last row is the only woman in the cemetery. Free.
• National Parliament of Papua New Guinea. Parliament Haus is one of the most impressive buildings in Port Moresby, built in the style of a Maprik Haus Tambaran (house of spirits from East Sepik Province). Dating from 1984, it is usually open to visitors. Free.
• Touaguba Hill Perhaps not so much to see, but this is where the ambassadorial residences are located and is also where many of the well-to-do expats and locals live. There is a nice view from the top of the hill overlooking the centre of the city and the ocean.
• Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary, Sir Hubert Murray Highway. Numerous crocodiles, some very large, as well as birds and other animals.
• Hiri Moale Festival. This takes place on the weekend of PNG's Independence Day in mid-September. The centrepiece is a race of up to 100 traditional Lakatoi canoes, recalling the sea voyages undertaken by the Motuan people from the Port Moresby area who exchanged sago and clay pots with the people of neighbouring Gulf Province. The departure of the canoes from Port Moresby's Ela Beach is really spectacular. The Festival is the city's main cultural show with traditional performances, as well as the canoes.
• Port Moresby Golf Club. A nice golf course located right across from the government buildings. The prices are quite acceptable for visitors. Be careful, crocodiles inhabit the water holes of the golf course. The main building has a nice restaurant where one can have lunch and have a few SP beers (South Pacific beers) after a round of golf.
• Ela Beach Craft Market. Run by the Ela Murray International School and held on the last Saturday of each month, this market brings together local artifacts from all over Papua New Guinea. An easy way to get some beautiful carvings, handwoven baskets, or any of a number of other things to bring home as souvenirs.

Port Moresby Nature Park (formerly National Capital Botanical Gardens). A must for the visitor. Has some amazing examples of PNG wildlife such as birds of paradise, a couple of casowaris, and several other native birds. If you are lucky you might catch a wedding while you are there as some locals like to conduct the ceremony in the gardens. On the same road is the National Orchid Garden which is also well worth a look - it is planned to encompass a zoological garden in the future.

Papua New Guinea National Museum & Art Gallery, Independence Drive, Waigani (Next to the National Parliament House, +675 325 2458. M-Sat 9am-3pm, Sun 1-3PM. PNG's national museum has a relatively small, but fascinating, collection which includes wonderful sculptures, beads, traditional boats and cultural objects. The exhibits are well displayed, and housed in an architecturally interesting building. Photography is not permitted inside the museum but there are newer objects outside, along with some remains from WW2 in varying states of decay including planes and tanks. Free during the week, 10K at weekends.

Bomana War Cemetery, 9 Mile (19 kilometres north of Port Moresby on the road to Nine Mile, approached from the main road by a short side road called Pilgrims Way. 9AM-4PM. A beautiful maintained cemetery, home to 3,824 Commonwealth burials from WW2. It is the resting place of many Australian soldiers from the Kokoda Trail, plus some of the Papuan Battalion in the last two rows. A nurse in the third last row is the only woman in the cemetery. Free.

National Parliament of Papua New Guinea. Parliament Haus is one of the most impressive buildings in Port Moresby, built in the style of a Maprik Haus Tambaran (house of spirits from East Sepik Province). Dating from 1984, it is usually open to visitors. Free.

Touaguba Hill Perhaps not so much to see, but this is where the ambassadorial residences are located and is also where many of the well-to-do expats and locals live. There is a nice view from the top of the hill overlooking the centre of the city and the ocean.

Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary, Sir Hubert Murray Highway. Numerous crocodiles, some very large, as well as birds and other animals.

Hiri Moale Festival. This takes place on the weekend of PNG's Independence Day in mid-September. The centrepiece is a race of up to 100 traditional Lakatoi canoes, recalling the sea voyages undertaken by the Motuan people from the Port Moresby area who exchanged sago and clay pots with the people of neighbouring [[South-western provinces (Papua New Guinea)|Gulf Province]]. The departure of the canoes from Port Moresby's Ela Beach is really spectacular. The Festival is the city's main cultural show with traditional performances, as well as the canoes.

Port Moresby Golf Club. A nice golf course located right across from the government buildings. The prices are quite acceptable for visitors. Be careful, crocodiles inhabit the water holes of the golf course. The main building has a nice restaurant where one can have lunch and have a few SP beers (South Pacific beers) after a round of golf.

Ela Beach Craft Market. Run by the Ela Murray International School and held on the last Saturday of each month, this market brings together local artifacts from all over Papua New Guinea. An easy way to get some beautiful carvings, handwoven baskets, or any of a number of other things to bring home as souvenirs.

Scuba Diving A number of reefs and wrecks are within close proximity to Port Moresby and diving can be arranged through day vessels or on nearby Loloata Island (which has its own dive shop). There are a variety of sites and depths for all experience levels.

Swimming A popular spot with the locals, the Taurama Aquatic and Indoor Centre is a modern sports complex opened in 2015, home to two outdoor pools (25m and 50m long) and six Olympic standard volleyball / basketball courts.

There are basically four stores to buy groceries if you are a foreigner in Port Moresby: Andersons Foodland, now called SVS Harbour City, Stop and Shop in Hohola, and Boroko Foodworld in Boroko and Gordons. Andersons is located right next to the Royal Papua Yacht club and usually suffices. Otherwise there is Foodworld which is larger and located over the hill in Boroko. An even larger and newer Boroko Foodworld is further east in Gordons. Port Moresby's shopping mall is Vision City in Waigani. There is a large hypermarket called RH selling anything from household furniture to baked beans. Their supply is abundant and the quality is good and prices are competitive. What one should bear in mind though is that everything imported might not always be there. Often if you see something you like you have to buy a lot of it because there is no telling when the next shipment is coming. This doesn't apply to basic foodstuffs but rather to things that might not be in high demand such as herring. RH has basically closed this gap.

Vision City Mega Mall. Biggest mall in Port Moresby, with a large supermarket, range of restaurants, and many other shops and services, and a cinema. Be careful of aggressive customers. Plenty of taxis available but best to call a known driver if you have one.

Harbour Side, Stanley Esplanade. Collection of businesses, restaurants and a supermarket

Waterfront Shopping Mall, Champion Parade. Small but clean and upmarket shopping centre with an excellent Foodworld supermarket.

Vision City Mega Mall. Biggest mall in Port Moresby, with a large supermarket, range of restaurants, and many other shops and services, and a cinema. Be careful of aggressive customers. Plenty of taxis available but best to call a known driver if you have one.

Harbour Side, Stanley Esplanade. Collection of businesses, restaurants and a supermarket

Waterfront Shopping Mall, Champion Parade. Small but clean and upmarket shopping centre with an excellent Foodworld supermarket.

• Asia Aromas, +675 321 4780. Chinese Restaurant serving great food located inside the Steamships Plaza on Champion Parade in the downtown area. Is popular with the local expatriate community.
• Daikoku Located inside the Andersons Foodland area, it offers great Japanese cuisine cooked directly at your table (teppanyaki). Don't forget to try the "Puk Puk" which is Tok Pisin for crocodile.
• Royal Papua Yacht Club Serves good Australian cuisine with some Papua New Guinean touches. Has à la carte menu and a buffet that varies according to the day of the week. An invitation from a member might be required to enter.
• Crowne Plaza Has a wonderful mediterranean restaurant which is probably the most expensive on the island. But if you feel like splurging this is definitely the place to go, it'll still be a good bargain.
• Port Moresby Golf Club Has a nice little lunch restaurant which serves à la carte or a buffet during lunch hours.
• Jepello's Great Italian food, and keyboardist who plays pop tunes. Off Waigani Drive, across the street from Big Rooster.
• Seoul House Decent Korean food. Next to 5-Mile service station.
• Fu Gui Assortment of Asian style cuisine. Try the Nasi Lemak chicken. In Gordon's, down the road form RH and Brian Bell.
• Lamana Hotel. A nice place for a quick lunch buffet and an happening casino at night.Food is good and the only place where you get Indian food.Place to visit certainly with all its friendly staff. 25k.
• Tasty Bite, Hunter St. Premiere South Indian restaurant in Port Moresby. K30-60.
• Tandoor On The Harbour, Harbour Side complex. Another highly regarded Indian restaurant.
• Beachside Brasserie, Ela Beach Road (in the Ela Beach Hotel. The hotel restaurant is well-appointed and has an extensive menu, especially grills and seafood. Also great for breakfast. K30-100.
• Buffalo Burgers, Waigani Road (in the Mity Meat Haus. Top burger place in town. K20.
• Hosi Ramen, Vision City Mega Mall. First ramen joint in PNG? K20-30.
• Poolside at Airways. Rooftop complex in the upmarket Airways Hotel. Buffets, a la carte, and sandwiches from KC Deli, all overlooking the airport.
• Jacksons Bar and Restaurant, Gateway Hotel. New complex in the Gateway Hotel, overlooking the airport. Their best thing is crispy-base pizzas.

Asia Aromas, +675 321 4780. Chinese Restaurant serving great food located inside the Steamships Plaza on Champion Parade in the downtown area. Is popular with the local expatriate community.

Daikoku Located inside the Andersons Foodland area, it offers great Japanese cuisine cooked directly at your table (teppanyaki). Don't forget to try the "Puk Puk" which is Tok Pisin for crocodile.

Royal Papua Yacht Club Serves good Australian cuisine with some Papua New Guinean touches. Has à la carte menu and a buffet that varies according to the day of the week. An invitation from a member might be required to enter.

Crowne Plaza Has a wonderful mediterranean restaurant which is probably the most expensive on the island. But if you feel like splurging this is definitely the place to go, it'll still be a good bargain.

Port Moresby Golf Club Has a nice little lunch restaurant which serves à la carte or a buffet during lunch hours.

Jepello's Great Italian food, and keyboardist who plays pop tunes. Off Waigani Drive, across the street from Big Rooster.

Seoul House Decent Korean food. Next to 5-Mile service station.

Fu Gui Assortment of Asian style cuisine. Try the Nasi Lemak chicken. In Gordon's, down the road form RH and Brian Bell.

Lamana Hotel. A nice place for a quick lunch buffet and an happening casino at night.Food is good and the only place where you get Indian food.Place to visit certainly with all its friendly staff. 25k.

Tasty Bite, Hunter St. Premiere South Indian restaurant in Port Moresby. K30-60.

Tandoor On The Harbour, Harbour Side complex. Another highly regarded Indian restaurant.

Beachside Brasserie, Ela Beach Road (in the Ela Beach Hotel. The hotel restaurant is well-appointed and has an extensive menu, especially grills and seafood. Also great for breakfast. K30-100.

Buffalo Burgers, Waigani Road (in the Mity Meat Haus. Top burger place in town. K20.

Hosi Ramen, Vision City Mega Mall. First ramen joint in PNG? K20-30.

Poolside at Airways. Rooftop complex in the upmarket Airways Hotel. Buffets, a la carte, and sandwiches from KC Deli, all overlooking the airport.

Jacksons Bar and Restaurant, Gateway Hotel. New complex in the Gateway Hotel, overlooking the airport. Their best thing is crispy-base pizzas.

The drink of choice in Port Moresby as in the rest of Papua New Guinea is South Pacific lager: "SP beer". However, once that cultural experience is done, you will probably prefer to move on to the more refined 'SP Export' lager, or 'Niugini Ice' beer. To buy alcohol you have to go to one of the characteristic yellow and green coloured shops that are usually integrated into the supermarkets. You don't want to go to the ones that aren't. They have a relatively limited selection of wines, mostly Australian or New Zealand brands. The prices are higher than you would expect because of the taxation of alcohol. The locals tend to get quite rowdy when they drink (as everywhere else) so it's best to avoid anyone that seems to be under the influence. Typically most expats drink at hotel bars or sports club bars, which have a more relaxed atmosphere.

• Duffy Cafe, Harbour Side complex. PNG's premiere cafe, making great use of the local beans and also serving good food. Main location is in Harbour Side but there are other branches, including in the international terminal departure lounge.

Duffy Cafe, Harbour Side complex. PNG's premiere cafe, making great use of the local beans and also serving good food. Main location is in Harbour Side but there are other branches, including in the international terminal departure lounge.

Port Moresby is well known for its crime. Carjackings, muggings and worse are common. Women are particularly at risk. Foreigners are sometimes specifically targeted.

There is a great deal of concern about the level of crime and civil disorder and about the ability and willingness of the police to cope. Police officers have been found to be complicit in major crime. Police brutality against minor offenders, complainants and witnesses has been the subject of criticism from the international group Human Rights Watch.

It is possible to minimise the chances of becoming a victim of crime by being aware of your surroundings, avoiding places where large groups are gathered and avoiding places where offences are prevalent. The Waigani area, particularly the area around the traffic lights and the Port Moresby Golf Club, has experienced numerous carjackings. The Morata district is well known by locals for its riots during the weekends. It's best to not walk between locations in Port Moresby, or travel at night.

Still, the local people are mainly friendly and peaceful. The main risks are from idle young people, mostly having fun and struggling for money. But traditionally, a wrong or bad or negative behaviour often has the other side of the mirror, which is known as "pay back", also called in some cases compensation, but always wild and violent.

It is always wise to seek the advice of a person familiar with Port Moresby before venturing into unknown areas.

Saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) are still common throughout all of Papua New Guinea. However, you are extremely unlikely to run into one.

A listing of the embassies and consulates in Port Moresby is available on embassypages.com. These include:

• Australia Australia, Godwit Road, Waigani NCD, +675 325 9333. Consular services: 8AM - 4:30PM, Monday to Friday except for public holidays.
• China China, Section 216, Lot 5, Sir John Guise Drive, Waigani, NCD, +675 325 0935 and +675 325 9903 (office), +675 7686 2675 (consular hotline). 8:30AM - 12PM, 2:30PM - 5PM, Monday to Friday.
• France France, 6th Floor, Defens Haus, Corner Champion Parade & Hunter St, +675 321 5550 (office), +675 7103 9885 (emergencies).
• Indonesia Indonesia, Sir John Giuse Drive Lot 1&2, Section 410, Kiroki Street, Gordons 5, NCD, +675 325-3116, +675 325-3544, +675 325-3435.
• Japan Japan, 1st and 2nd Floor, Cuthbertson House, Cuthbertson St, +675 321 1800 (switchboard), +675 7695 7766 or +675 7685 2319 (consular emergency numbers). Consular services: 8AM - 12PM, 1PM - 4PM, Monday to Friday.
• New Zealand New Zealand, S351 L2 Magani Crescent, Waigani, +675 325 9444. Consular services: 8AM - 2PM, Monday to Friday.
• Philippines Philippines, Lot 1, Section 440 Islander Village, Hohola, +675 325 6414. 8:00AM - 5:00PM, Monday to Friday except for public holidays.
• Taiwan Taiwan, Level 8, Deloitte Tower, Douglas Street.
• United Kingdom United Kingdom, Sec 411 Lot 1 & 2, Kiroki Street, Waigani NCD, +675 325 1677. Consular services: 9AM - 12PM, Monday to Friday.
• United States United States, Douglas St, +675 321 1455. 7:45AM - 4:30PM, Monday to Friday except for public holidays.

Australia Australia, Godwit Road, Waigani NCD, +675 325 9333. Consular services: 8AM - 4:30PM, Monday to Friday except for public holidays.

China China, Section 216, Lot 5, Sir John Guise Drive, Waigani, NCD, +675 325 0935 and +675 325 9903 (office), +675 7686 2675 (consular hotline). 8:30AM - 12PM, 2:30PM - 5PM, Monday to Friday.

France France, 6th Floor, Defens Haus, Corner Champion Parade & Hunter St, +675 321 5550 (office), +675 7103 9885 (emergencies).

Indonesia Indonesia, Sir John Giuse Drive Lot 1&2, Section 410, Kiroki Street, Gordons 5, NCD, +675 325-3116, +675 325-3544, +675 325-3435.

Japan Japan, 1st and 2nd Floor, Cuthbertson House, Cuthbertson St, +675 321 1800 (switchboard), +675 7695 7766 or +675 7685 2319 (consular emergency numbers). Consular services: 8AM - 12PM, 1PM - 4PM, Monday to Friday.

New Zealand New Zealand, S351 L2 Magani Crescent, Waigani, +675 325 9444. Consular services: 8AM - 2PM, Monday to Friday.

Philippines Philippines, Lot 1, Section 440 Islander Village, Hohola, +675 325 6414. 8:00AM - 5:00PM, Monday to Friday except for public holidays.

Taiwan Taiwan, Level 8, Deloitte Tower, Douglas Street.

United Kingdom United Kingdom, Sec 411 Lot 1 & 2, Kiroki Street, Waigani NCD, +675 325 1677. Consular services: 9AM - 12PM, Monday to Friday.

United States United States, Douglas St, +675 321 1455. 7:45AM - 4:30PM, Monday to Friday except for public holidays.

With relatively few attractions, Moresby is usually just a stopping off point for tourists heading to other parts of PNG. The whole country could be listed under Go next. For major locations see Papua New Guinea. Possible day trips from Port Moresby include:

• Sogeri Plateau. Fifty km from Port Moresby and, at 800m, an escape from the heat. Sogeri marks the end of the Kokoda Trail, which was the route through the jungle taken by Japanese soldiers in 1942 in an attempt to capture Port Moresby. You may encounter some attacks by young people hiding in the park. The main opportunity is to visit this very pleasant place by groups of at least 20 persons.
• Yule Island. A small island just off the coast of Central Province, a two-hour drive west of Port Moresby. This was one of the first areas of PNG to have European contact. Catholic missionaries settled in 1885. They were joined by Filipino catechists and, as a result, the people of the area often have distinct Filipino features. It is a popular spot for a relaxing getaway and for good seafood.
• The Kokoda Track. Walked by over 4,000 people a year, you'll be able to recognise them on the flight to Port Moresby by their wearing of hiking boots on the plane. The ~96km track is usually walked in guided groups over 6-12 days, largely following the paths used by Japanese and Australian troops who fought here in 1942. Along the way are numerous small villages, providing one of the best ways to see traditional Papua New Guinea life in a safe environment. The track starts / ends at Owen's Corner, an hour by bus from Port Moresby, and finishes / starts at Kokoda on the other side of the Owen Stanley Ranges, a 45-minute flight from Port Moresby. The only way to travel between the two is by foot, under and down endless muddy hillsides.

Sogeri Plateau. Fifty km from Port Moresby and, at 800m, an escape from the heat. Sogeri marks the end of the [[Kokoda Track|Kokoda Trail]], which was the route through the jungle taken by Japanese soldiers in 1942 in an attempt to capture Port Moresby. You may encounter some attacks by young people hiding in the park. The main opportunity is to visit this very pleasant place by groups of at least 20 persons.

Yule Island. A small island just off the coast of Central Province, a two-hour drive west of Port Moresby. This was one of the first areas of PNG to have European contact. Catholic missionaries settled in 1885. They were joined by Filipino catechists and, as a result, the people of the area often have distinct Filipino features. It is a popular spot for a relaxing getaway and for good seafood.

[[Kokoda Track|The Kokoda Track]]. Walked by over 4,000 people a year, you'll be able to recognise them on the flight to Port Moresby by their wearing of hiking boots on the plane. The ~96km track is usually walked in guided groups over 6-12 days, largely following the paths used by Japanese and Australian troops who fought here in 1942. Along the way are numerous small villages, providing one of the best ways to see traditional Papua New Guinea life in a safe environment. The track starts / ends at Owen's Corner, an hour by bus from Port Moresby, and finishes / starts at Kokoda on the other side of the Owen Stanley Ranges, a 45-minute flight from Port Moresby. The only way to travel between the two is by foot, under and down endless muddy hillsides.