Anlong Veng is a district and small town in the Oddar Meanchey Province of northwest Cambodia. Its sole claim to notability is its connection to the later days of the Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot, Ta Mok, Son Sen, and Khiev Samphan, the leaders of the organisation, all had homes here. The district also holds the graves of Pol Pot and Ta Mok, as well as the remnants of the structure where Pol Pot was convicted of crimes against the Cambodian people. What might otherwise be an overly morbid itinerary is redeemed by the stunning mountain scenery. There is a border crossing with Thailand's Si Saket Province 13 km north of Anlong Veng town.
Anlong Veng is at a crossroads, literally and perhaps metaphorically. Once its inaccessibility made it attractive to Khmer Rouge fugitives, it is now at the hub of four glorious asphalt highways which blaze trails through the undeveloped hinterland of North-western Cambodia. Hwy 67 runs north to Choam and the border with Chong Sa-Ngam in Thailand bringing an influx of traders. It continues south to Siem Reap and its temples. The more recently completed east-west highway connects the town with its provincial capital, Samraong, in the west and the disputed Preah Vihear temples in the east. The town is centred on a roundabout near the market. This is where the road to Preah Vihear meets Hwy 67. The town spreads north towards the man-made lake and the junction of the road to Samraong.
The below sights are either within the town or about 14 km up in the hills near the Choam border point.
- Anlong Veng Lake and Spillway. This man-made lake was conceived and carried out by Ta Mok. Many large trees were killed by the flooding, and their trunks jut skywards like huge grey bones. The lake itself is unsettling to look at, but local people love the spillway created in the rainy season. Fishing, boating and the general splashing around are available, with just as many spectators as participants.
- Ta Mok's Town House. The best-preserved of the Khmer Rouge houses, Ta Mok's house in town overlooks the eerie lake that Brother Number Four created himself. Murals of Angkor Wat and Preah Vihear, as well as a map of Cambodia and a strangely bucolic scene of bathing elephants decorate the walls and are, as yet, undamaged by graffiti.
- Pol Pot's Grave. Prepare to be underwhelmed. A tin roof and a sign urging visitors to keep the area clean are all the tribute given to Brother Number One by his country. Oddly enough a Thai lottery winner has erected a spirit house on the site in honour of the former Khmer Rouge leader, who he claims, appeared to him in a dream with the winning numbers. A small pack of children often materialises when visitors arrive.
- Pol Pot's House. Not much left here but a shell of a house, overgrown with foliage and 'decorated' with profane graffiti. Water storage tanks, an underground chamber and a nearby pond round off the excitement. The motorcycle ride to the site is the real attraction, passing through fields and jungle in the Damrek Mountains. You will see Cambodia's iconic 'Danger! Mines!' signs on many of the trees. Do not, under any circumstances, venture off the road. Unfortunately, these mines are still regularly killing and maiming Cambodians.
- Ta Mok's Mountain House. Graffiti artists have been at it again with this little shell although this time, it's mostly young lovers proclaiming their eternal fidelity. Considering the amazing views from this site, it's not surprising that it should have become a regular make-out hill. Oddly enough, there are not one but two tiny spirit houses nearby, ostensibly, recent additions. A guesthouse has also been built less than 100 m away, taking advantage of the view. Those who don't fancy a night up here can relax with a beer in one of the many hammocks. The landmine warning applies to the road here as well.
- Ta Mok's Grave. Ta Mok's gravesite seems poised to become a much more grand monument than Pol Pot's.
An interesting few hours can be spent touring all the above sites, with plenty of vista stops and little encounters with surprisingly friendly local people. Moto-taxi drivers can arrange an itinerary. Over Pol Pot's dead body will there be a casino in Anlong Veng. And so there is: in Choam, opposite brother number one's final resting place is a casino resort. The casino is up and running, the adjoining resort is still under construction.
The market has the requisite cheap clothing, rambutans, and motorcycle parts. There are a few pharmacies. There is an ATM at the ACLeda Bank, east of the central roundabout. Note, however, that this is only Visa-friendly, not MasterCard.
Khmer rice plates can be bought in various places. Just look for the lidded silver cook pots, have a peek inside them and point at your favourite.
Places selling soft drinks and coconut water often have beer in their coolers as well.
There is Internet cafe. It is about 50 m north of the roundabout at the market. USD0.75/ hr.
- Preah Vihear
- Samraong
- Siem Reap and Angkor Archaeological Park
- Thailand - in Choam, near Pol Pot's cremation site, one can cross to Chong Sa-Ngam in Thailand. The crossing is open to foreigners . On the Thai side, transport connections are fairly informal (i.e., hitching a lift with anything going is standard practice). More formal transport can be supplied by a Thai border guard called Iing, who can arrange taxis. Call him on +66 81 9271191. The best option appears to be the minibuses and pickup trucks that take Thais to the casino in Choam. They should be able to get travellers to Khu Khan, the closest Thai town. Khu Khan has accommodation, banks, ATMs, and direct bus services to Bangkok, Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat), Pattaya, Rayong, Si Saket and Ubon Ratchathani. Westbound and Ubon-bound buses can be boarded at the junction of Hwy 24 and 2201, about 30 km from the border and about 15 km from Khu Khan. On the Cambodian side, motorbike drivers loiter near immigration and will get travellers into Anlong Veng for USD3-4. Choam has at least one guesthouse, so do not worry about arriving at the border late, unless you get stuck on the Thai side, which has very little to offer, except an excellent swimming spot at a reservoir behind the shabby looking market.