Aswan

Aswan (Arabic: أسوان‎ àswân) is a city in the south of Egypt, some 680 km south of Cairo, just below the Aswan Dam and Lake Nasser, with a population of 275,000. Aswan is far more relaxed and smaller than Cairo and Luxor.

Aswan is the smallest of the three major tourist cities on the Nile. Being the furthest south of the three, it has a large population of Nubian people, mostly resettled from their homeland in the area flooded by Lake Nasser. Aswan is the home of many granite quarries from which most of the obelisks seen in Luxor were sourced. Aswan was the ancient Egyptians' gateway to Africa.

Also, Aswan is the hassle-free alternative to Luxor with an equally or even more beautiful Nile, many impressive sights nearby and a far more authentic souq than the tiny one in Luxor.

See also: Egypt#Climate

• Nubian Museum. Daily 9AM-9PM. Spacious museum opened in 1997 as a joint project of the Egyptian government and UNESCO, it traces the history of the Nubian region from pre-historic time up to the construction of the Aswan Dam in the 1960s and the consequent flooding of Nubia. Adults LE140, students LE70, photo permit LE50.
• Unfinished Obelisk. The largest known ancient obelisk, carved directly out of bedrock. If finished it would have measured around 42 m (120 feet) and would have weighed nearly 1,200 tons. There is also a short video about obelisks shown by a man who demands tips. This site would be of interest to the most dedicated Egyptophiles, but maybe not to others. LE80, students LE40.
• Archangel Michael’s Coptic Orthodox Cathedral. Modern Coptic cathedral dominating the skyline of southern Aswan.
• Fatimid Cemetery. The faded former glory of the Fatimid empire can be seen on the crumbling graveyard.
• Ferial Gardens. 10AM–6:55PM. When you're in Aswan you'll have to walk along the Kornish Al Nile (Corniche) at least once. It is a pleasant stroll, made even more pleasant by the fact that you can walk right into the Ferial Gardens at its southern end. They are a park that is as relaxing as it is beautiful. LE10.

Nubian Museum. Daily 9AM-9PM. Spacious museum opened in 1997 as a joint project of the Egyptian government and UNESCO, it traces the history of the Nubian region from pre-historic time up to the construction of the Aswan Dam in the 1960s and the consequent flooding of Nubia. Adults LE140, students LE70, photo permit LE50.

Unfinished Obelisk. The largest known ancient obelisk, carved directly out of bedrock. If finished it would have measured around 42 m (120 feet) and would have weighed nearly 1,200 tons. There is also a short video about obelisks shown by a man who demands tips. This site would be of interest to the most dedicated Egyptophiles, but maybe not to others. LE80, students LE40.

Archangel Michael’s Coptic Orthodox Cathedral. Modern Coptic cathedral dominating the skyline of southern Aswan.

Fatimid Cemetery. The faded former glory of the Fatimid empire can be seen on the crumbling graveyard.

Ferial Gardens. 10AM–6:55PM. When you're in Aswan you'll have to walk along the Kornish Al Nile (Corniche) at least once. It is a pleasant stroll, made even more pleasant by the fact that you can walk right into the Ferial Gardens at its southern end. They are a park that is as relaxing as it is beautiful. LE10.

• Elephantine Island: Nubian Villages & Aswan Museum. Nubian villages of Siou and Koti occupy this island. Also home to the famous Nilometers and the Temples of Sati, Khnum (ancient rams-head god) and Pepinakht-Heqaib. Movenpick resort is on the island. The Aswan Museum (adult: LE70, student LE35, Jan 2019) at the southern end of the island houses items found during excavations on Elephantine Island, and includes access to the neighbouring archaeological site. Also, be careful of unsolicited tours from locals, which will result in a request for baksheesh. There is regular boat taxi to Elephantine Island run by the locals for LE5 for one return crossing for tourists (you usually pay LE5 to go and don't pay to come back).
• Aswan Botanical Gardens. Ticket office closes at 6PM during summer and 5PM during winter times.. Lord Kitchener, who owned the 6.8-hectare island in the 1890s converted it to a botanical garden. Filled with birds and hundreds of plant species and palm trees. Accessible by motor boat (LE200 for two people, which can be haggled down to LE100), via a felucca tour, or via a rowboat from Elephantine island (ask a local near where boats are lying on the western shore). LE20.
• Seheyl Island. 7AM to 4PM. Friendly Nubian villages. Well known for its excellent beaded jewelry. Also the location of the Famine Stela. Cliff with more than 200 inscriptions from the 18th dynasty. LE40, students LE20.

Elephantine Island: Nubian Villages & Aswan Museum. Nubian villages of Siou and Koti occupy this island. Also home to the famous [[:Wikipedia:Nilometer|Nilometer]]s and the Temples of Sati, Khnum (ancient rams-head god) and Pepinakht-Heqaib. Movenpick resort is on the island. The Aswan Museum (adult: LE70, student LE35, Jan 2019) at the southern end of the island houses items found during excavations on Elephantine Island, and includes access to the neighbouring archaeological site. Also, be careful of unsolicited tours from locals, which will result in a request for baksheesh. There is regular boat taxi to Elephantine Island run by the locals for LE5 for one return crossing for tourists (you usually pay LE5 to go and don't pay to come back).

Aswan Botanical Gardens. Ticket office closes at 6PM during summer and 5PM during winter times.. Lord Kitchener, who owned the 6.8-hectare island in the 1890s converted it to a botanical garden. Filled with birds and hundreds of plant species and palm trees. Accessible by motor boat (LE200 for two people, which can be haggled down to LE100), via a felucca tour, or via a rowboat from Elephantine island (ask a local near where boats are lying on the western shore). LE20.

Seheyl Island. 7AM to 4PM. Friendly Nubian villages. Well known for its excellent beaded jewelry. Also the location of the Famine Stela. Cliff with more than 200 inscriptions from the 18th dynasty. LE40, students LE20.

• Tombs of the Nobles. 8AM-5PM. The northern hills of the west bank are filled with the rock-hewn tombs of princes from the Old Kingdom to the Roman period. The 6th Dynasty tombs, some of which form linked family complexes, contain important biographical texts. Inside, the tombs are decorated with vivid wall paintings showing scenes of everyday life, hieroglyphic biographies and inscriptions telling of the noblemen's journeys into Africa. The ticket gives you access to the Tombs of Mekhu & Sabni and the Tomb of Sarenput II on the left side coming up the hill, as well as the Tomb of Sarenput I on the right side, for all of which you will need the key holder waiting for you when you come up. Generally, you should get into the tombs without problem, but when buying the ticket ask for it to get confidence and refer to this knowledge when you get hassled by the key holder. Try to go with several other people, so you can take some pictures when the key holder is busy, especially in the Tomb of Sarenput II. Otherwise, you will probably have to pay him a fee for taking pictures. On the right side there is also a tomb (no. 35 l) with a spectacular bat colony at the far end, if you bring a torch (or you mobile's camera). LE60.

  * Tombs of Mekhu & Sabni – Reliefs show invasion of Nubia

  * Tomb of Sarenput II – One of the most beautiful and preserved tombs

  * Tomb of Sarenput I (No. 36) – Six pillars decorated with reliefs

  * Tomb of Harkhuf – Hieroglyphics

  * Tomb of Hekaib – Reliefs show fighting and hunting scenes

• Kubbet el-Hawa. Small shrine/tomb of a local sheikh and holy man. The climb is rewarded with amazing views of Aswan, the Nile river and the surrounding landscape, richly evoked in the translation from the Arabic of the place name, "the dome of the wind'. LE60, students LE30.
• Mausoleum of Mohammed Shah Aga Khan. Tomb of the 48th iman of the Islami sect and his wife. Visible from the outside, although closed to the public.
• Monastery of St Simeon. October-May 8AM-4PM; June-September 7AM-5PM. The history of the monastery of St. Simeon dates back to the 7th century, and survived long as a Christian stronghold of southern Egypt until destroyed by Saladin in 1173. While still in use it housed 300 monks, and could in addition receive up to 100 pilgrims at a time. The monastery was surrounded by a 10 metre high wall, and doubled as a fortress. Apparently, the monastery did not return to its original use after Saladin's destruction. To get here, ride a camel or walk from the Tombs of the Nobles. LE40, students LE20.

Tombs of the Nobles. 8AM-5PM. The northern hills of the west bank are filled with the rock-hewn tombs of princes from the Old Kingdom to the Roman period. The 6th Dynasty tombs, some of which form linked family complexes, contain important biographical texts. Inside, the tombs are decorated with vivid wall paintings showing scenes of everyday life, hieroglyphic biographies and inscriptions telling of the noblemen's journeys into Africa. The ticket gives you access to the Tombs of Mekhu & Sabni and the Tomb of Sarenput II on the left side coming up the hill, as well as the Tomb of Sarenput I on the right side, for all of which you will need the key holder waiting for you when you come up. Generally, you should get into the tombs without problem, but when buying the ticket ask for it to get confidence and refer to this knowledge when you get hassled by the key holder. Try to go with several other people, so you can take some pictures when the key holder is busy, especially in the Tomb of Sarenput II. Otherwise, you will probably have to pay him a fee for taking pictures. On the right side there is also a tomb (no. 35 l) with a spectacular bat colony at the far end, if you bring a torch (or you mobile's camera). LE60.

* Tombs of Mekhu & Sabni – Reliefs show invasion of Nubia

* Tomb of Sarenput II – One of the most beautiful and preserved tombs

* Tomb of Sarenput I (No. 36) – Six pillars decorated with reliefs

* Tomb of Harkhuf – Hieroglyphics

* Tomb of Hekaib – Reliefs show fighting and hunting scenes

Kubbet el-Hawa. Small shrine/tomb of a local sheikh and holy man. The climb is rewarded with amazing views of Aswan, the Nile river and the surrounding landscape, richly evoked in the translation from the Arabic of the place name, "the dome of the wind'. LE60, students LE30.

Mausoleum of Mohammed Shah Aga Khan. Tomb of the 48th iman of the Islami sect and his wife. Visible from the outside, although closed to the public.

Monastery of St Simeon. October-May 8AM-4PM; June-September 7AM-5PM. The history of the monastery of St. Simeon dates back to the 7th century, and survived long as a Christian stronghold of southern Egypt until destroyed by Saladin in 1173. While still in use it housed 300 monks, and could in addition receive up to 100 pilgrims at a time. The monastery was surrounded by a 10 metre high wall, and doubled as a fortress. Apparently, the monastery did not return to its original use after Saladin's destruction. To get here, ride a camel or walk from the Tombs of the Nobles. LE40, students LE20.

• Philae Temple, Agilkia Island. Built to honor Isis, this was the last ancient temple built in the classical Egyptian architectural style. Construction began in approx 690 BC. It was moved from Philae Island, to its new location on Agilkia Island, after the flooding of Lake Nasser. A multinational UNESCO team relocated Philae, and other temples that now dot the shores of Lake Nasser. You can see the submerged island a short distance away, punctuated by the steel columns used in the moving process. Don't miss the Sound and Light show at night, see picture to the right, the least cheesy of the Sound and Light "extravaganzas". Note also the re-use of the temple as a Christian church, with crosses carved into the older hieroglyph reliefs, and images of the Egyptian gods carefully defaced. There are graffiti dating from the 1800s. At the ticket office there is a sign stating that a daytime motorboat to the site costs LE150 roundtrip for 1-8 people including a one-hour wait, which is generally enough time (Nov 2018). Take a picture of this sign to use when haggling with the boatmen who will demand LE150 each way, although don't be surprised if you are still pressed for an additional baksheesh. LE140, students LE70.
• Trajan's Kiosk. A hypaethral temple on Agilkia Island in Old Aswan dam reservoir. One of the largest Ancient Egyptian monuments standing today, it is conventionally attributed to the Roman emperor Trajan, who gave it its current decorations, though some experts think the structure may be older, possibly dating to the time of Augustus.
• Aswan International Sculpture Park. Sculptors from around the world exhibit their pieces here every spring for the International Sculpture Symposium. The works are all created in Aswan (on the terrace of the Basma Hotel) and when finished brought to this site and exhibited next to each other within view of the ancient quarry.
• The Low Dam. When built between 1899 and 1902, nothing of its scale had ever been attempted; on completion, it was the largest masonry dam in the world. However, its capacity became insufficient later, which led to the construction of the Aswan High Dam 6 km upstream.
• The High Dam. Despite being a very important piece of infrastructure, the Aswan High Dam is (to put it delicately) a bit of a letdown even for dam lovers. LE20.

New Kalabsha is a promontory housing several important temples, structures, and other remains that have been relocated there from the site of Old Kalabsha and other sites in Lower Nubia, to avoid the rising waters of Lake Nasser caused by the construction of the Aswan High Dam.

• Kalabsha Temple. Like Philae, this temple and its surrounding ruins were moved by UNESCO to save them from the floodwaters of Lake Nasser. The main temple was built to the Nubian fertility and sun god Marul during the rule of Emperor Augustus. LE60, students LE30.
• Gerf Hussein. The temple of Gerf Hussein is dedicated to Ramesses II and was built by the Viceroy of Nubia Setau. Originally, it was partially free-standing and partially rock-cut. During the flooding of Lake Nasser, the free-standing section was dismantled and then rebuilt at New Kalabsha. Most of the original rock-cut Gerf Hussein temple. was left in place and is now submerged beneath the waters.
• Beit el-Wali. The rock-cut temple of Beit el-Wali was moved from its original location by a Polish archaeological team. It is dedicated to Ramesses II, and the gods of Amun and Anukis (among others). It was originally decorated in bright colors, but these were mostly removed by a "squeeze" taken in the 19th Century (the results of this squeeze are now on display in the British Museum).
• Kiosk of Qertassi. A tiny Roman kiosk with four slender papyrus columns inside and two Hathor columns at the entrance. It is a small but elegant structure that "is unfinished and not inscribed with the name of the architect, but is probably contemporary with Trajan's Kiosk at Philae."
• Dedwen. It was built within the outer wall of the temple of Kalabsha, and is dedicated to the Nubian serpent goddess, Dedwen. It was moved along with the Kalabsha temple to New Kalabsha.

Kalabsha Temple. Like Philae, this temple and its surrounding ruins were moved by UNESCO to save them from the floodwaters of Lake Nasser. The main temple was built to the Nubian fertility and sun god Marul during the rule of Emperor Augustus. LE60, students LE30.

Gerf Hussein. The temple of Gerf Hussein is dedicated to Ramesses II and was built by the Viceroy of Nubia Setau. Originally, it was partially free-standing and partially rock-cut. During the flooding of Lake Nasser, the free-standing section was dismantled and then rebuilt at New Kalabsha. Most of the original rock-cut Gerf Hussein temple. was left in place and is now submerged beneath the waters.

Beit el-Wali. The rock-cut temple of Beit el-Wali was moved from its original location by a Polish archaeological team. It is dedicated to Ramesses II, and the gods of Amun and Anukis (among others). It was originally decorated in bright colors, but these were mostly removed by a "squeeze" taken in the 19th Century (the results of this squeeze are now on display in the British Museum).

Kiosk of Qertassi. A tiny Roman kiosk with four slender papyrus columns inside and two Hathor columns at the entrance. It is a small but elegant structure that "is unfinished and not inscribed with the name of the architect, but is probably contemporary with Trajan's Kiosk at Philae."

Dedwen. It was built within the outer wall of the temple of Kalabsha, and is dedicated to the Nubian serpent goddess, Dedwen. It was moved along with the Kalabsha temple to New Kalabsha.

Philae Temple, Agilkia Island. Built to honor Isis, this was the last ancient temple built in the classical Egyptian architectural style. Construction began in approx 690 BC. It was moved from Philae Island, to its new location on Agilkia Island, after the flooding of Lake Nasser. A multinational [[UNESCO]] team relocated Philae, and other temples that now dot the shores of Lake Nasser. You can see the submerged island a short distance away, punctuated by the steel columns used in the moving process. Don't miss the Sound and Light show at night, see picture to the right, the least cheesy of the Sound and Light "extravaganzas". Note also the re-use of the temple as a Christian church, with crosses carved into the older hieroglyph reliefs, and images of the Egyptian gods carefully defaced. There are graffiti dating from the 1800s. At the ticket office there is a sign stating that a daytime motorboat to the site costs LE150 roundtrip for 1-8 people including a one-hour wait, which is generally enough time (Nov 2018). Take a picture of this sign to use when haggling with the boatmen who will demand LE150 each way, although don't be surprised if you are still pressed for an additional baksheesh. LE140, students LE70.

Trajan's Kiosk. A hypaethral temple on Agilkia Island in Old Aswan dam reservoir. One of the largest Ancient Egyptian monuments standing today, it is conventionally attributed to the Roman emperor Trajan, who gave it its current decorations, though some experts think the structure may be older, possibly dating to the time of Augustus.

Aswan International Sculpture Park. Sculptors from around the world exhibit their pieces here every spring for the International Sculpture Symposium. The works are all created in Aswan (on the terrace of the Basma Hotel) and when finished brought to this site and exhibited next to each other within view of the ancient quarry.

The Low Dam. When built between 1899 and 1902, nothing of its scale had ever been attempted; on completion, it was the largest masonry dam in the world. However, its capacity became insufficient later, which led to the construction of the Aswan High Dam 6 km upstream.

The High Dam. Despite being a very important piece of infrastructure, the Aswan High Dam is (to put it delicately) a bit of a letdown even for dam lovers. LE20.

• Rent a bike. Bikes available at many hotels. Cross the modern bridge to the east bank and bring back your bicycle afterwards by ferry boat.
• Camel rides. Grab a felucca captain and they will shuttle you across to the camel marshalling area. Ride the camel to the Monastery of St Simeon.
• Tea with the local shopkeepers. You will get a fascinating insight into their daily lives, and they love to practise their English on you. Nevertheless, they will certainly try to sell you something in exchange for the free tea.
• Book a cruise ship for 2-3 nights between Luxor and Aswan by tracking down one or several of them along the pier before noon. Most cruise ships have a reception at their entrance and you can just walk in. Do not mind the guards or barriers, they are just there for protection. According to some travellers, prices can start at US$40 per night. Either way, it will be cheaper than when going through an agent or booking online.

Rent a bike. Bikes available at many hotels. Cross the modern bridge to the east bank and bring back your bicycle afterwards by ferry boat.

Camel rides. Grab a felucca captain and they will shuttle you across to the camel marshalling area. Ride the camel to the Monastery of St Simeon.

Tea with the local shopkeepers. You will get a fascinating insight into their daily lives, and they love to practise their English on you. Nevertheless, they will certainly try to sell you something in exchange for the free tea.

Book a cruise ship for 2-3 nights between Luxor and Aswan by tracking down one or several of them along the pier before noon. Most cruise ships have a reception at their entrance and you can just walk in. Do not mind the guards or barriers, they are just there for protection. According to some travellers, prices can start at US$40 per night. Either way, it will be cheaper than when going through an agent or booking online.

The souqs (markets) in Aswan are refreshingly exotic without the same level of high-pressure selling found in some tourist towns like Luxor. You will generally find that Nubian handicrafts are of higher quality and better value in Aswan. All other goods will be more expensive than in Cairo due to shipping costs to Aswan and the lower tourist demand.

• Sharia as-Souq. The most charming souq in Egypt, spreading through almost half of the city. There is far less pressure to buy than in other cities, and it is more beautiful and exciting as well. Buy Nubian talisman, baskets, Sudanese swords, African masks, live produce, food, fruit, vegetables, henna powder, t-shirts, perfume, spices, robes, statues.

Sharia as-Souq. The most charming souq in Egypt, spreading through almost half of the city. There is far less pressure to buy than in other cities, and it is more beautiful and exciting as well. Buy Nubian talisman, baskets, Sudanese swords, African masks, live produce, food, fruit, vegetables, henna powder, t-shirts, perfume, spices, robes, statues.

• Al-Masry Restaurant, Sharia Al Matar. Popular with locals. Great kafta and kebabs, pigeon, and chicken, all served with bread, salad and tahini. Dishes: LE8-30.
• Aswan Moon, Corniche an Nil (on pontoons along the Corniche, +20 97 231 6108. Decent food with cheery service. The local fish joints near the city market can be excellent -- their fish is fresh, and you can watch it cook. Don't miss the crab soup! Mezze LE4-9; pizza LE19-25; kebob LE25; Daoud Basha (meatballs and tomato sauce) LE13.
• Biti Pizza, Midan al Mahatta (near the train station. Serves fiteer, a flaky Egyptian pizza, and western varieties. Pizza LE20.
• Chef Khalil, Sharia al Souq (near the train station. Fresh fish restaurant, priced by weight. Small place but worth the wait. LE25-60.
• Emy, Corniche an Nil (on a double deckered boat moored in the Nile, next to Aswan Moon, +20 97 230 4349. Popular amound Nubian felucca captains. Beer available. Beer LE9; salads LE3; Egyptian and international dishes LE13-18; fresh juices LE5.
• Madena Restaurant, Sharia al souq (close to Cleopatra Hotel. Small place. Kofta meal LE22; vegetarian meal LE15.
• Nubian House, +20 97 232 6226. Spectacular sunset views over the first cataract. Sheesha and tea. LE15-22.
• Panorama, Corniche an Nil, +20 97 231 6169. Serves simple Egyptian stews served in clay pots, with salad, mezze, rice. All day breakfast. Dishes LE8-20.

Al-Masry Restaurant, Sharia Al Matar. Popular with locals. Great kafta and kebabs, pigeon, and chicken, all served with bread, salad and tahini. Dishes: LE8-30.

Aswan Moon, Corniche an Nil (on pontoons along the Corniche, +20 97 231 6108. Decent food with cheery service. The local fish joints near the city market can be excellent -- their fish is fresh, and you can watch it cook. Don't miss the crab soup! Mezze LE4-9; pizza LE19-25; kebob LE25; Daoud Basha (meatballs and tomato sauce) LE13.

Biti Pizza, Midan al Mahatta (near the train station. Serves fiteer, a flaky Egyptian pizza, and western varieties. Pizza LE20.

Chef Khalil, Sharia al Souq (near the train station. Fresh fish restaurant, priced by weight. Small place but worth the wait. LE25-60.

Emy, Corniche an Nil (on a double deckered boat moored in the Nile, next to Aswan Moon, +20 97 230 4349. Popular amound Nubian felucca captains. Beer available. Beer LE9; salads LE3; Egyptian and international dishes LE13-18; fresh juices LE5.

Madena Restaurant, Sharia al souq (close to Cleopatra Hotel. Small place. Kofta meal LE22; vegetarian meal LE15.

Nubian House, +20 97 232 6226. Spectacular sunset views over the first cataract. Sheesha and tea. LE15-22.

Panorama, Corniche an Nil, +20 97 231 6169. Serves simple Egyptian stews served in clay pots, with salad, mezze, rice. All day breakfast. Dishes LE8-20.

Aswan is much less strict on drinking alcohol than Cairo or Luxor, and many of the restaurants sell Stella (Egyptian brand not the Belgian brand) and Saqqara, both of which are lagers and comparable to European beers.

Aswan is generally a very safe city. However, do watch out for quite blatant attempts at pickpocketing in the souq. These thieves will approach you carrying scarves, shirts or even papyrus in one hand to sell to you, while attempting to go into your pockets with the other hand. The locals know this goes on, but do not count on them to intervene. Also, women should avoid travelling alone if they are not comfortable with leering men, although they are all bluster. Most horse carriage drivers will not commit on the price when you arrive at your destination and you are expected to give more.

There is so much to do around the Aswan area that time can be an issue. The local people are generally very cooperative, and for a price, doors might remain opened regardless of the hour.

• Abu Simbel – most people use Aswan as a base to see this fantastic temple. Many hotels and tour agencies can offer a mini-bus service, often departing at 4AM and going as part of a larger convoy, often with police together. You might take part in that convoy with your own vehicle. Depending on your negotiation skills the hotel-organised mini-bus costs between LE150–LE350 (also try other hotels apart from the one you are staying in). There is also a public bus leaving from the bus station north of town, scheduled to depart at 8AM. If all goes well this should get you in Abu Simbel at 11:30AM, return is at 1PM (although you might be able to delay this a little with a nice 'baksheesh' - use at your own discretion) (May 2019).
• Kom Ombo – Not far north from Aswan, with the double temple of Ptolemaic. Taxi trips or organized tours are LE150, or you take a (local) train and taxi/tuk-tuk from the railway station (LE10).
• Cruises to Luxor – The 2-night cruise should cost from US$75 per night, including meals, depending on the boat.
• Felucca trips to Luxor – see the Felucca guide for a complete itinerary and for information.