Baucau

Baucau is East Timor's second largest city, behind Dili. It is located on the northern coast of East Timor, east of Dili.

The city has East Timor's only major airport outside of the capital. During the political events of the late 1990s and early 2000s, the city found itself accommodating an influx of overseas jets and airplanes shipping people and supplies into the country. But Baucau has always been an important administrative and agricultural centre. It is the capital of a district with the same name.

Baucau has always played second fiddle to Dili in terms of national relevance. But the town has a backdrop that is just as scenic as that of Dili, with dramatic cliffs skirting the town.

Like Dili, Baucau suffered from the post-referendum carnage in 1999 where many of the main administrative buildings were burnt down. Departing Indonesian troops and the mobs they sponsored ripped out all infrastructure and utilities, leaving it without electricity and telephones. Baucau has since recovered, although you can still see many gutted buildings.

Baucau's administrative centre is located at the foot of the cliffs that overlook the town. There is a large colonial hall surrounding a small fountain that was used for public addresses in colonial times. Nowadays you are more likely to see a goat wandering through than any colonial administrators. The real action now happens up on the cliffline - an area called Kota Baru (Indonesian for "New Town") which was developed during the Indonesian era - where the UN and now the East Timorese government have set up shop.

• Old Town. Take a walk around the colonial centre of town ("Old Town"). The abandoned and often scorched buildings are eerie reminders of a bygone era. Many of the buildings still have architectural value. Children play in the buildings and in the fountains and spring overflow. Walk down the road following the beautiful spring down to the beach. Watch out for mangy dogs and goats roaming the streets!

Old Town. Take a walk around the colonial centre of town ("Old Town"). The abandoned and often scorched buildings are eerie reminders of a bygone era. Many of the buildings still have architectural value. Children play in the buildings and in the fountains and spring overflow. Walk down the road following the beautiful spring down to the beach. Watch out for mangy dogs and goats roaming the streets!

• Piscina de Baucau. A large spring-fed pool owned by the Pousada, set in lush grounds, with a diving board and a slide. Beautiful place for a swim. 50c.
• Coconut Beach. Beautiful and popular white sand beach with bungalows and camping.
• Convent. Visit the convent mission for a look at the valuable work the sisters are doing with the children and less fortunate of Baucau. They also have a small store with local handicrafts.

Piscina de Baucau. A large spring-fed pool owned by the Pousada, set in lush grounds, with a diving board and a slide. Beautiful place for a swim. 50c.

Coconut Beach. Beautiful and popular white sand beach with bungalows and camping.

Convent. Visit the convent mission for a look at the valuable work the sisters are doing with the children and less fortunate of Baucau. They also have a small store with local handicrafts.

• The local food, KULU, is well known in the country and has become the identity of the district.
• Pousada de Baucau. The restaurant at the Pousada aims for a fancy Portuguese and European menu but is very unreliable. $8-$20.
• Victoria Cafe, Rua Vila Antigua Bacau. Decent restaurant in a nice colonial building with views over the old town. Portuguese and Indonesian. $6.
• Amalia, down a sort of bridge near the bus stop and market. Good Indonesian restaurant with a large treed terrace. $4.
• Baucau Beach Bungalows. also has a restaurant on the beach.

Pousada de Baucau. The restaurant at the Pousada aims for a fancy Portuguese and European menu but is very unreliable. $8-$20.

Victoria Cafe, Rua Vila Antigua Bacau. Decent restaurant in a nice colonial building with views over the old town. Portuguese and Indonesian. $6.

Amalia, down a sort of bridge near the bus stop and market. Good Indonesian restaurant with a large treed terrace. $4.

Baucau Beach Bungalows. also has a restaurant on the beach.

• The handmade liquor, "tua sabu", is also worth trying.