Belitung

Belitung (locally called Belitong, formerly Billiton) is one of the two main islands of the Bangka-Belitung province in Indonesia. While its big brother, Bangka, has developed as an economic center, Belitung generally remains a sleepy island. But you may consider that quiet an advantage for a resort destination which can serve as a weekend getaway from the hectic life in Jakarta, or as an alternative to Bali, if it seems too crowded for you.

You might not expect it from the island whose tin mines gave their name to Australian mining giant BHP Billiton, but Belitung is one of the nicest islands in Southeast Asia. The island was pretty much asleep, underrated, and was known only for its tin commodity. But it ultimately became famous in 2008 after the movie Laskar Pelangi (Rainbow Troops), which was one of Indonesia's most watched movies, as it portrays the struggling life of some of the island's poor children in a remote school...and the unspoiled beauty of its nature. A few years coming, resorts are built, beaches are cleaned, and the island ultimately puts itself in the map as a tropical paradise. Unlike the infamous Bali, everything is still laid back. You'll barely find nightclubs, party resorts or any obvious signs of Western culture.

Pristine white sand beaches look out on a turquoise sea filled with great snorkeling and a fantastic display of offshore islands. Check out Tanjung Kelayang and Tanjung Tinggi for world class beaches without the hustle and bustle now found at beaches of this caliber anywhere else. Natural features include white sand fringed coconut plantations, elaborate granite rock formations and long temporary sand bars as smooth as powdered sugar. Offshore islands are a long swim distance from the beach but colorful local fishing boats will take you on an island tour. The main town, Tanjung Pandan, is on its west side and has adequate facilities for a small town.

It's best to visit the island during the dry season as is most other places in Indonesia (April-September). The sun shines more often than the rain pours. It is less stormy and as a result, the shallow reefs at the outlying islands are clear enough to be snorkeled in and the waves are less (but still sometimes because of prevailing winds) choppy during your island hopping cruise. Make sure to apply sunscreen even though you are not tanning (few, if any, tans), as the UV index at the beaches is often horrendous and can result in sunburn.

There are two major cities in Belitung on each other side of the island:

• Tanjung Pandan is the largest town and has adequate facilities for a small city. There is a museum, a harbor, and a commercial beach
• Manggar is on the east side. A city of coffee shops & undisturbed beaches without the giant rocks like its northern counterpart.
• Gantung at the interior east is where the Laskar Pelangi movie was set.

Tanjung Pandan is the largest town and has adequate facilities for a small city. There is a museum, a harbor, and a commercial beach

Manggar is on the east side. A city of coffee shops & undisturbed beaches without the giant rocks like its northern counterpart.

Gantung at the interior east is where the Laskar Pelangi movie was set.

All people of Belitung Island have proficiency of Bahasa Indonesia as the lingua franca of the country it rests in, Indonesia. But the local dialect sometimes makes things go complicated yet amusing, with word shortenings and quick speeches, inquire if you need to make yourself clear. A large minority of the population is Chinese Hakka, with a somewhat good grasp of Mandarin. It's not uncommon to see such languages spoken when fellow Chinese descents do meet until a long talk follows, even in a formal situation. English is spoken only within hotels, tourist areas or high school students, even then expect only basic or fair proficiency.

The north side of the island has white powdery beaches.

• Tanjung Tinggi Beach. The most famous beach in Belitung. White sand & granite rocks of all sizes alternating, left you wonder where all these lumps of boulders came from. You can even climb on them or enter the gaps of the giant rocks.
• Tanjung Kelayang Beach. There are 2 sides on the beach: the mainly sandy east, or the more rocky west. The rock formations are not as big, but some of them are in the middle of the sea and qualifies as islands. Fisherman boats are waiting on the east side if you wish for an island-hopping tour (no rocks on the vegetated islands).
• Tanjung Binga Beach. Not a very scenic beach, no white powdery sand or rocks, but there's a marina full of fishing boats. This is the primary departure point for island hopping tours to the northwest islands, especially Lengkuas Island.
• Tanjung Pendam Beach. So called the city beach of Tanjung Pandan. It's where the city locals typically go during the weekend to watch the sunset, play at the playground or dine at the seafood restaurants.
• Penyabong Beach. An enchanting beauty at the island's southern coast if you are bored with rigid rocks. There is a giant organized flat row of stones that everyone can step in.
• Burung Mandi Beach. If you are bored with rocks, any rocks, this is the place. More quiet, more laid back. Literally means "bathing bird", it faces a mountain for its namesake. There is a Buddhist temple as a landmark, the largest in the island.

Tanjung Tinggi Beach. The most famous beach in Belitung. White sand & granite rocks of all sizes alternating, left you wonder where all these lumps of boulders came from. You can even climb on them or enter the gaps of the giant rocks.

Tanjung Kelayang Beach. There are 2 sides on the beach: the mainly sandy east, or the more rocky west. The rock formations are not as big, but some of them are in the middle of the sea and qualifies as islands. Fisherman boats are waiting on the east side if you wish for an island-hopping tour (no rocks on the vegetated islands).

Tanjung Binga Beach. Not a very scenic beach, no white powdery sand or rocks, but there's a marina full of fishing boats. This is the primary departure point for island hopping tours to the northwest islands, especially Lengkuas Island.

Tanjung Pendam Beach. So called the city beach of Tanjung Pandan. It's where the city locals typically go during the weekend to watch the sunset, play at the playground or dine at the seafood restaurants.

Penyabong Beach. An enchanting beauty at the island's southern coast if you are bored with rigid rocks. There is a giant organized flat row of stones that everyone can step in.

Burung Mandi Beach. If you are bored with rocks, any rocks, this is the place. More quiet, more laid back. Literally means "bathing bird", it faces a mountain for its namesake. There is a Buddhist temple as a landmark, the largest in the island.

Most of the island-hopping activities are at the northwest side of the island, still with their white beaches. Each island has its own unique rock formations. Even though most islands other than the list below would consist of standalone rocks only (with sand during low tide), it is still a good idea to at least get a picture of this mesmerizing feature. Most boats depart from Tanjung Binga beach.

• Lengkuas Island. An outlying island famous for its century-old lighthouse that is still active to this day, get up its 18 flights of stairs to capture the image of the whole outlying island(s). You can also walk on the rock formations on the shallow water, swim or snorkel to see the reefs and fishes. At the sandy beach, you are facing Aji Island, reachable by swimming or by boat.
• Kepayang Island. A great place to dive, a resort open for a visit, and a marine conservation where baby turtles are bred until old enough to plunge into the open seas and coral gardens are restored.
• Burung Island. Known for its rock formations that shapes like a bird. Nothing else very scenic but the water is calm enough for a swim.
• Pulau Lutung. Actually they are two islands, but at low tide you can walk between the two. The south side of the bigger island has a cape of sand half the size of a football pitch and no rocks.

At low tide, your boat will even take you to a heap of sand (geographically called a shoal, locally called Pulau Pasir) that you can step on and spot starfishes before it's gone back to sea.

Lengkuas Island. An outlying island famous for its century-old lighthouse that is still active to this day, get up its 18 flights of stairs to capture the image of the whole outlying island(s). You can also walk on the rock formations on the shallow water, swim or snorkel to see the reefs and fishes. At the sandy beach, you are facing Aji Island, reachable by swimming or by boat.

Kepayang Island. A great place to dive, a resort open for a visit, and a marine conservation where baby turtles are bred until old enough to plunge into the open seas and coral gardens are restored.

Burung Island. Known for its rock formations that shapes like a bird. Nothing else very scenic but the water is calm enough for a swim.

Pulau Lutung. Actually they are two islands, but at low tide you can walk between the two. The south side of the bigger island has a cape of sand half the size of a football pitch and no rocks.

• Batu Baginde. A unique bulging formation of two granite rocks, as if they were husband and wife.
• Kaolin Lake. This is what is left of a kaolinite mine. A lake with blue water and white rocks around it deceives you as if you are near the Poles or a volcano crater.
• Museum Kata Andrea Hirata, Jl. Sudirman, Simpang Pasar Gantung, Belitung Timur, Indonesia. The author of Laskar Pelangi sequel, Andrea Hirata, erected Indonesia's literature museum here. Behind the scenes of Belitung in year 1978 with his memorabilia, and a corner of tin mining equipments. Periodically, Andrea himself comes to his hometown giving art and band lessons to local community.
• Replica of Muhammadiyah Primary School, Lenggang, Gantung. If you did watch Laskar Pelangi, you will find this place memorable. Remember the struggle and fun of the author (Ikal) and 9 other children taught by one single teacher (Ms. Muslimah). The real school was destroyed by wear and tear to its roots so a replica was built and used for the movie.
• Gurok Beraye, Dusun Air Pegantungan, Kacang Botor village, Badau. The waterfall was sourced from Belitung's highest point, Mount Tajam (510 above sea level). Be careful along the way for deep gorges but the journey is worth the beauty. The water falls to a wide lake perfect for a swim.
• Lake Mempayak, Kelapa Kampit. Used to be called "open pit" by mining company BHP Billiton, the mine is now abandoned. What still lefts is a beautiful brown ground, green lake and trees, and locals mining by traditional equipment. The road that leads here is not very good. Downtown Tanjung Pandan is quite interesting due to the many Dutch Colonial buildings and shop houses. Most of the governmental buildings are the original Dutch buildings and the old Dutch tin mining housing compound is still kept up. Traditional Bugis fishing craft and an odd assortment of other boats make the wharf and fish market an interesting place, certainly for your nose, to visit.

Cultural Belitung has a rich diversity of people. Check out the cool Malay-style wooden houses that may remind you of the Caribbean or the Bugis traditional raised houses that are half dock to dry fish. A Chinese Buddhist temple is said to be one of the oldest in Indonesia, built by the survivors of an ancient Chinese trading vessel. Balinese transmigrants have a thriving community that carries on Bali's traditions and religion.

Batu Baginde. A unique bulging formation of two granite rocks, as if they were husband and wife.

Kaolin Lake. This is what is left of a kaolinite mine. A lake with blue water and white rocks around it deceives you as if you are near the Poles or a volcano crater.

Museum Kata Andrea Hirata, Jl. Sudirman, Simpang Pasar Gantung, Belitung Timur, Indonesia. The author of Laskar Pelangi sequel, Andrea Hirata, erected Indonesia's literature museum here. Behind the scenes of Belitung in year 1978 with his memorabilia, and a corner of tin mining equipments. Periodically, Andrea himself comes to his hometown giving art and band lessons to local community.

Replica of Muhammadiyah Primary School, Lenggang, Gantung. If you did watch Laskar Pelangi, you will find this place memorable. Remember the struggle and fun of the author (Ikal) and 9 other children taught by one single teacher (Ms. Muslimah). The real school was destroyed by wear and tear to its roots so a replica was built and used for the movie.

Gurok Beraye, Dusun Air Pegantungan, Kacang Botor village, Badau. The waterfall was sourced from Belitung's highest point, Mount Tajam (510 above sea level). Be careful along the way for deep gorges but the journey is worth the beauty. The water falls to a wide lake perfect for a swim.

Lake Mempayak, Kelapa Kampit. Used to be called "open pit" by mining company BHP Billiton, the mine is now abandoned. What still lefts is a beautiful brown ground, green lake and trees, and locals mining by traditional equipment. The road that leads here is not very good.

During the island hopping tour, do not waste the opportunity to enjoy the pristine blue sea! At the beach, climb its monolith stones to your best high. In the water, go for a swim or snorkel above its rich species of reefs and fishes. Further from the island(s), go fishing and you can often get a medium to large-sized fish.

• Batu Malang Penyu. At the waters between Lengkuas and Kepayang Island, it is a prime spot for both snorkeling and diving in Belitung, with colorful corals in between schools of fish. A nearby shipwreck is also worth visiting. It is one of the two places in the world where you can dive between granite rocks, the other is at Seychelles on the other side of the Indian Ocean.
• Batu Mentas Conservation Center. A conservation center at the foot of Mount Tajam. A few last meters to the entrance is still of soil but what awaits at its end will awe you. Go tubing along the river (like rafting but with individual buoys), see the endangered tarsius, stroll around the green forest or do the outbound activities. You can also swim at the shallow river with small fishes. It also houses a restaurant and a resort. Weekdays: free, Weekends: Rp5,000.

Batu Malang Penyu. At the waters between Lengkuas and Kepayang Island, it is a prime spot for both snorkeling and diving in Belitung, with colorful corals in between schools of fish. A nearby shipwreck is also worth visiting. It is one of the two places in the world where you can dive between granite rocks, the other is at [[Seychelles]] on the other side of the Indian Ocean.

Batu Mentas Conservation Center. A conservation center at the foot of Mount Tajam. A few last meters to the entrance is still of soil but what awaits at its end will awe you. Go tubing along the river (like rafting but with individual buoys), see the endangered tarsius, stroll around the green forest or do the outbound activities. You can also swim at the shallow river with small fishes. It also houses a restaurant and a resort. Weekdays: free, Weekends: Rp5,000.

ATMs from foreign banks are yet to make their way into the island. if you wish to draw some money, get to the ATMs provided by BCA, BRI, or Bank Sumsel Babel, although the latter is highly unlikely to accept any foreign cards. There are no money exchanges as foreign visitors are still scarce and there are no international flights. Exchange all your foreign money into Rupiah at Jakarta before your departure.

The souvenir industry at Belitung is still at its infancy: There are only a handful of specialty shops at the island, while most still blend in with ordinary shops that locals often visit. If you do find one, look for these items:

• Tektite: Locally known as Batu Satam, the stone is widely used for gems or jewelry. The rock was formed by asteroids falling on tin ground, resulting in its black color and smooth groove.
• Crackers or Kerupuk: These are not rice crackers. The main ingredient is seafood: a choice of fish, shrimp, or even squid.
• Terasi: fresh shrimp paste, wrapped with woven leaves.
• Fish floss: The unique feature compared to other areas' produce is its slight spiciness, thus it is locally called Sambal Lingkong. Perfect accompaniment with rice.
• Shells: No, you cannot take the shells direct from the beaches. But there are designers that display items that takes shell art to the next level.

Here are a few places to shop which is, as most other attractions, mostly located at Tanjung Pandan:

• Barata, Jl. Veteran No. 1, Tanjung Pandan. The largest (and perhaps the only) mall in Belitung.
• Galeri KUMKM Belitung, Jl.Sriwijaya, Tanjung Pandan. This is the market where small designers sell their product to fame. The most complete collection of souvenirs, they have all of the above.
• Toko Oleh-oleh Keluarga OK, Jl. Patimura, Tanjung Pandan. Locally produced bags, fashion, and shell arts. If you buy the crackers in bulks, they have a special wrapping box for your convenience.

Tektite: Locally known as Batu Satam, the stone is widely used for gems or jewelry. The rock was formed by asteroids falling on tin ground, resulting in its black color and smooth groove.

Crackers or Kerupuk: These are not rice crackers. The main ingredient is seafood: a choice of fish, shrimp, or even squid.

Terasi: fresh shrimp paste, wrapped with woven leaves.

Fish floss: The unique feature compared to other areas' produce is its slight spiciness, thus it is locally called Sambal Lingkong. Perfect accompaniment with rice.

Shells: No, you cannot take the shells direct from the beaches. But there are designers that display items that takes shell art to the next level.

Barata, Jl. Veteran No. 1, Tanjung Pandan. The largest (and perhaps the only) mall in Belitung.

Galeri KUMKM Belitung, Jl.Sriwijaya, Tanjung Pandan. This is the market where small designers sell their product to fame. The most complete collection of souvenirs, they have all of the above.

Toko Oleh-oleh Keluarga OK, Jl. Patimura, Tanjung Pandan. Locally produced bags, fashion, and shell arts. If you buy the crackers in bulks, they have a special wrapping box for your convenience.

Even if it is a small island, Belitung has its own local delicacy that will delight your palate during your visit:

• Gangan: A fish soup with curry and pineapple. Perfect to soothe your throat and a zest source of energy
• Otak-otak Ikan: fish cake, white and chewy, not fried. Usually packed in leaves, with chili sauce as its condiment (bearable spiciness to western standards).
• Mie Belitung: even Belitung has its own version of noodle dish. It is noodles with sweet gravy of spices and shrimp, topped with cucumbers, tofu, potatoes, and dried shrimp. Compliment with gnetum gnemon crackers. In selected stalls, the dish is served on a big leaf to enhance the aroma.

Seafood is common; fish, shrimp, and squid are the main dish at virtually every restaurant, including species you might have never heard of at other areas across the country. The more premium ones will also serve crabs and oysters (sorry, no lobsters!). Vegetables can act as a substitute and most have at least one dish made mostly of this ingredient.

Most eating options consists of wooden or simple stalls with ample seating area and kitchen at its backdoor, which is by far the best bet in terms of hygiene. When dining in open areas though, flies are a nuisance and will try to distract your quiet meal. The cost of a standard meal for a group of four is very low to Jakarta's standard. Typically it will cost you Rp 300,000, assuming rice with three or four platters for communal consumption. Top up your meal with tea or orange juice — not the typical orange, but the white glassy key lime.

• Fega Restaurant, Jl. Assalam No. 10, Manggar, +62 719 91114. A restaurant that has a view of the lake emptying into the sea. Have a taste of the fish head gangan, seafood, or a snack with your coffee.
• Dapur Sakato, Jl. Depati Gegedek, Tanjung Pandan. Where there are Padang (Minangkabau) people, there is always a restaurant of their cuisine. Does not have the typical prominent roof, but a more premium feel. from Rp40,000.
• Mie Belitung Atep, Jl. Sriwijaya No. 27 (near the roundabout, before the billboard, +62 719 21464. Since 1973, this stall has attracted numerous national celebrities to stop by, even the former president Megawati. Specialties are the Mie Belitung, and the key lime juice. Cheap but you might need two to fill you up. from Rp10,000.
• Mie Yamin Achoi, Jl. Madura 1, Tanjung Pandan. If you want meat, that is their main ingredient for their noodle dish (bakmi), but they also have the Mie Belitung. from Rp8,000.
• RM Diva, Jl. Sriwijaya 27, Tanjung Pandan. Has seafood, but much more options if you are bored with it.
• RM Mutiara, Jl. Wahab Aziz No. 7. Crowded, but has premium seafood options: crab, fish, and squid. They have the gangan, choose between whole fish or fish head. Dishes from Rp 50,000.
• RM Belitong Tempo Duluk, Jl. Lettu Mat Daud, Tanjung Pandan. Also a typical restaurant with local food, but with a more premium and hygienic feel. Knick knacks and recipes from the old days of the island.

If you want a temporary relief from seafood, an increasing number of Western appetites are building up — easy to find at Tanjung Pandan; near to none at other areas but hotels.

• Brosis, Jl. Sriwijaya. Notable for its ice cream shop and has Western food.
• Kentucky Fried Chicken, Jl. Sriwijaya Square. Want a temporary relief to Western food? Shift yourself to its fried chicken from this fast food restaurant.
• Unique Bistro & Karaoke. Common Indonesian food and to some extent, western food. Live music each night and karaoke room.

Brosis, Jl. Sriwijaya. Notable for its ice cream shop and has Western food.

Kentucky Fried Chicken, Jl. Sriwijaya Square. Want a temporary relief to Western food? Shift yourself to its fried chicken from this fast food restaurant.

Unique Bistro & Karaoke. Common Indonesian food and to some extent, western food. Live music each night and karaoke room.

Gangan: A fish soup with curry and pineapple. Perfect to soothe your throat and a zest source of energy

Otak-otak Ikan: fish cake, white and chewy, not fried. Usually packed in leaves, with chili sauce as its condiment (bearable spiciness to western standards).

Mie Belitung: even Belitung has its own version of noodle dish. It is noodles with sweet gravy of spices and shrimp, topped with cucumbers, tofu, potatoes, and dried shrimp. Compliment with gnetum gnemon crackers. In selected stalls, the dish is served on a big leaf to enhance the aroma.

Fega Restaurant, Jl. Assalam No. 10, Manggar, +62 719 91114. A restaurant that has a view of the lake emptying into the sea. Have a taste of the fish head gangan, seafood, or a snack with your coffee.

Dapur Sakato, Jl. Depati Gegedek, Tanjung Pandan. Where there are Padang (Minangkabau) people, there is always a restaurant of their cuisine. Does not have the typical prominent roof, but a more premium feel. from Rp40,000.

Mie Belitung Atep, Jl. Sriwijaya No. 27 (near the roundabout, before the billboard, +62 719 21464. Since 1973, this stall has attracted numerous national celebrities to stop by, even the former president Megawati. Specialties are the Mie Belitung, and the key lime juice. Cheap but you might need two to fill you up. from Rp10,000.

Mie Yamin Achoi, Jl. Madura 1, Tanjung Pandan. If you want meat, that is their main ingredient for their noodle dish (bakmi), but they also have the Mie Belitung. from Rp8,000.

RM Diva, Jl. Sriwijaya 27, Tanjung Pandan. Has seafood, but much more options if you are bored with it.

RM Mutiara, Jl. Wahab Aziz No. 7. Crowded, but has premium seafood options: crab, fish, and squid. They have the gangan, choose between whole fish or fish head. Dishes from Rp 50,000.

RM Belitong Tempo Duluk, Jl. Lettu Mat Daud, Tanjung Pandan. Also a typical restaurant with local food, but with a more premium and hygienic feel. Knick knacks and recipes from the old days of the island.

There are no general signs of party and nightlife within the island. Karaoke bars, despite its enticing name as a youth's night resort, actually do not serve alcoholic drinks. A notable exception is the bar at some hotels, such as Mama Mia's at the Kepayang Island cottages, that cater mostly to high-end and foreign tourists.

Do stop by Manggar at the east side for its unbeknownst coffee culture. Warkop (coffee shops) are abundant at every corner and that's where the population meets, for a siesta or a social talk.

• Warung Kopi Atet, Jalan Manggar, Manggar. Perhaps the most famous coffee shop. Accompany your cup of Joe (or cup of tea) with snacks,eggs, or indomie (the infamous instant noodle brand). one cup from Rp5,000.
• Sriwijaya Shop, +62 719 21202. There is actually no name for the shop but it houses a travel agent (the front display says they sell Sriwijaya Air tickets) and sells local snacks. On a hot day, as is always the case, sit here and enjoy a refreshing shaved ice (sekoteng) with jelly, red or green beans and other toppings, condensed milk and syrup.

Warung Kopi Atet, Jalan Manggar, Manggar. Perhaps the most famous coffee shop. Accompany your cup of Joe (or cup of tea) with snacks,eggs, or indomie (the infamous instant noodle brand). one cup from Rp5,000.

Sriwijaya Shop, +62 719 21202. There is actually no name for the shop but it houses a travel agent (the front display says they sell Sriwijaya Air tickets) and sells local snacks. On a hot day, as is always the case, sit here and enjoy a refreshing shaved ice (sekoteng) with jelly, red or green beans and other toppings, condensed milk and syrup.

By and large, Belitung is low on crime and natural disasters. The only concern for you might be the weather. Torrential rains during the rainy season (October-March) can result in reduced visibility, road ponding, and choppy sea travel. It is advisable not to travel during this period.

Electricity infrastructure has been developed following the dramatically increasing number of visitors. Blackouts can still happen though, but much spottier than it used to be and usually does not go long for hours.

Although main roads are well-lit, some of the more minor roads are not very well lit and may pass through villages (Kampong or Desa) or rural areas where the locals seem to take a very casual approach to road safety. Drive slow and watch out for erratically piloted motorbikes, pedestrians and livestock. Inside Tanjung Pandan and Manggar, watch out for errors in the road arrows - they may lead you into wrong lanes or into barricades.

The area is predominantly Muslim.

• Gereja Katolik Regina Pacis, Jl. Depati Gegedek, Tanjung Pandan. The only Catholic church in the island. Frequently crowded during Sunday Mass at 7AM.
• Masjid Al-Ikhram, Jl. Kemuning, Tanjung Pandan. One of the oldest mosques in the island.

Gereja Katolik Regina Pacis, Jl. Depati Gegedek, Tanjung Pandan. The only Catholic church in the island. Frequently crowded during Sunday Mass at 7AM.

Masjid Al-Ikhram, Jl. Kemuning, Tanjung Pandan. One of the oldest mosques in the island.

• Bangka: the neighbor island to the west, Bangka boasts many white sand beaches and a few interesting Chinese temples.