Benbecula (Gaelic Beinn Na Faoghla or Beinn nam Fadhla) is an island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, with a resident population of 1300. The name is a medieval mispronunciation: "pen" ie flat land turned into "ben" for mountain, which it doesn't have. "Becula" means "of the fords" - the island is separated from North and South Uist by shallow channels that you can wade across at low tide, and that are nowadays crossed by a road. The main settlement is Balivanich (Baile a' Mhanaich) next to the airport.
The island just north, Grimsay, is considered part of Benbecula, as it's tidal and you can walk not wade there, and the main road crosses it. It's just heath and farms.
The island is predominantly Gaelic-speaking - English is universally understood - and Roman Catholic. The main road cuts north-south across the boggy interior, while the airport, settlements and amenities straggle along a loop of road along the west coast. Always a poor prospect for arable farming, in the 19th C Benbecula was turned over to sheep and sporting estates, and much of the population ruthlessly evicted. The island developed rapidly anew in the 20th C for military bases and missile ranges, gaining its airport and other facilities, the road causeways, and many ugly buildings. This means that most visitors use it to fly in, but skip on quickly elsewhere. It's not notably scenic, but its lochs and beaches are tranquil and deserted.
In 1746 Bonnie Prince Charlie (1720-1788) was cast up here, a fugitive after the collapse of the Jacobite Rebellion; Flora Macdonald disguised him as an Irish maid and got him away to Skye. Another famous visitor was Hercules (1975-2001), a tame grizzly bear that in 1980 was being filmed here for a Kleenex commercial when his tether broke and he ambled away. There was no sight of him for 24 anxious days - "Have any of the Irish maid costumes been taken?" - but then he was spotted and tranquillised. Being used to cooked food, Hercules had eaten none of the island's many fish, sheep or chickens, and had lost 95 kg, half his weight. He went on to feature in the Bond film Octopussy.
- Beaches skirt the west coast of the island, and are easily accessed from the coast road. Culla Bay is about the best, between Nunton and Aird.
- Gramsdale Standing Stones. are near the start of the causeway to Grimsay and North Uist. There's one large stone and ten smaller ones in a circle some 30 yards across. An ornately carved Pictish stone (now in the National Museum in Edinburgh) was found here - an important find, as evidence of Pictish culture in the Western Isles is rare. Free, generally accessible.
- Borve Castle. Small ruin of a 14th C tower house. Also known as "Castle Wearie", and looks it. Free.
- Linaclete Museum, Linaclete School HS7 5PJ. Termtime Tu-Sa 10:00-13:00, 14:00-17:00. Has a small museum open term time, occasionally during holidays. The fitness and leisure facilities are available to the public out of hours, with a small cafe. Free.
Beaches skirt the west coast of the island, and are easily accessed from the coast road. Culla Bay is about the best, between Nunton and Aird.
Gramsdale Standing Stones. are near the start of the causeway to Grimsay and North Uist. There's one large stone and ten smaller ones in a circle some 30 yards across. An ornately carved Pictish stone (now in the National Museum in Edinburgh) was found here - an important find, as evidence of Pictish culture in the Western Isles is rare. Free, generally accessible.
Borve Castle. Small ruin of a 14th C tower house. Also known as "Castle Wearie", and looks it. Free.
Linaclete Museum, Linaclete School HS7 5PJ. Termtime Tu-Sa 10:00-13:00, 14:00-17:00. Has a small museum open term time, occasionally during holidays. The fitness and leisure facilities are available to the public out of hours, with a small cafe. Free.
- Uist Community Riding School, East Camp, Balivanich HS7 5LA (B892 just south of airport, +44 1870 602808. Tu-Sa 09:00-16:00. Horse and pony riding, including rides on the beach. Volunteer-run, open all year.
- Fishing: mostly trout fishing in the many small lochs.
- Snorkelling & freediving: you can have instruction and kit hire for around £75 a head, though half the point of these activities is that you can unroll your wetsuit from the back of the car and plunge in anywhere.
- Surfing is possible on Benbecula, but the breaks are better on Lewis.
Uist Community Riding School, East Camp, Balivanich HS7 5LA (B892 just south of airport, +44 1870 602808. Tu-Sa 09:00-16:00. Horse and pony riding, including rides on the beach. Volunteer-run, open all year.
Fishing: mostly trout fishing in the many small lochs.
Snorkelling & freediving: you can have instruction and kit hire for around £75 a head, though half the point of these activities is that you can unroll your wetsuit from the back of the car and plunge in anywhere.
Surfing is possible on Benbecula, but the breaks are better on Lewis.
- Lovats Supermarket is in Balinvanich (M-Sa 08:00-21:00, Su 11:00-18:00).
- Maclennan's Supermarket is in Balivanich (M-Sa 08:00-20:00, Su 11:00-16:00).
- Next door is Macleans Bakery, Balinivanich HS7 5LY. M-Sa 09:00-15:00. Small bakery for bread and oatcakes with a shop onsite. They've another place a mile east at Uachdar.
Next door is Macleans Bakery, Balinivanich HS7 5LY. M-Sa 09:00-15:00. Small bakery for bread and oatcakes with a shop onsite. They've another place a mile east at Uachdar.
- Stepping Stone Restaurant, Balivanich HS7 5LA, +44 1870 603377. W-Sa 11:00-20:00, Su 12:00-18:00. Good food, reasonably priced. It is spacious and light, with large picture windows on each side. Its cuisine is a mixture of Scottish and international, and uses local produce wherever possible. Dine either in the formal, raised section "Sinteag", or in the informal section "The Food Base".
- An Caladh, Balivanich (East Camp just south of airport. Tu-F 11:00-15:00. Cafe (within a community health project) serves up a range of meals and snacks at reasonable prices. You get good value for money as the servings are more than the usual.
- The Low Flyer in Balivanich (see "Drink") does bar meals, and there's a Chinese takeaway round the side.
- The Airport Cafe (see "Get in") is generally open whenever the airport is active, non-passengers welcome, and there's free parking by the terminal.
Stepping Stone Restaurant, Balivanich HS7 5LA, +44 1870 603377. W-Sa 11:00-20:00, Su 12:00-18:00. Good food, reasonably priced. It is spacious and light, with large picture windows on each side. Its cuisine is a mixture of Scottish and international, and uses local produce wherever possible. Dine either in the formal, raised section "Sinteag", or in the informal section "The Food Base".
An Caladh, Balivanich (East Camp just south of airport. Tu-F 11:00-15:00. Cafe (within a community health project) serves up a range of meals and snacks at reasonable prices. You get good value for money as the servings are more than the usual.
The Low Flyer in Balivanich (see "Drink") does bar meals, and there's a Chinese takeaway round the side.
The Airport Cafe (see "Get in") is generally open whenever the airport is active, non-passengers welcome, and there's free parking by the terminal.
- The Low Flyer in Balivanich is the only stand-alone pub on Benbecula. Drouthy, run-down, and hours erratic.
- The Dark Island Hotel and Isle of Benbecula House Hotel have public bars, see "Sleep".
The Low Flyer in Balivanich is the only stand-alone pub on Benbecula. Drouthy, run-down, and hours erratic.
Midges! Midges, midges, midges! They're a real nuisance in summer, in silent pesky clouds, and even if you don't see them, you'll find lots of bite marks later. Think twice about camping if you react badly to bites. The only sure repellent is a strong breeze . . . and close that door before they all get in.
The other hazards here are likewise natural: weather, soggy moors, seas that can quickly turn rough. So it's standard advice about stout footwear and warm clothing, as if Captain Obvious was squiring your Auntie Morag.
Either north to North Uist, for ferries to Harris / Lewis and the mainland, or south to South Uist, for ferries to Barra and the mainland. If you travel via Skye, maybe best see it first: it's far more scenic, but will feel very congested and touristy after you've been on Benbecula.
Reaching St Kilda is usually on a day-trip by boat. None sail from the Uists, but there's a couple of operators sailing from Leverburgh on Harris and one from Stein on Skye.