Birsay

Birsay is a small village on the north coast of Orkney Mainland. It's the site of the ruined Earl's Palace, and just offshore is the Brough of Birsay with medieval Norse remains. The surrounding farmland is dotted with ancient standing stones, some incorporated into fence-posts.

(For Skara Brae and related neolithic sites, see Stenness.)

• Earl's Palace, 1 Bridge, KW17 2LX. Always open. The masonry shell of the palace of Robert Stewart, Earl of Orkney, built in the late 16th century, and a ruin by the 18th. Robert was the first Earl; his son Patrick the second Earl built the palace at Kirkwall. Free.
• Brough of Birsay. Mid-June to Sept daily 09:30-17:30 depending on the tides; closed Oct-mid June. This tidal island, run by Historic Scotland, holds Norse ruins from the 9th to 13th century; a Pictish settlement was here from the 7th century. Original artefacts have been moved to the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, and replicas placed here, and the island has been reinforced to prevent sea erosion of the sites. There's also a 1925 lighthouse and sea-bird colonies. The causeway is passable for two hours either side of low tide: check times online from "Easytide", using Stromness or Tingwall as the reference port. Adult £5.
• Fishermen's Hut and Whalebone: from the Brough of Birsay carpark, walk east along the north shore. About 10 minutes down the path is a small fishermen's hut with adjacent boat rests. Down a nearby narrow stone stairway is a natural spring. A bit farther down the path is a whalebone erected in the late 19th century and a great view of the Brough.
• Barony Mills, KW17 2LY (Half-mile inland from Brough, +44 1856 721 439. May-Sept daily 11:00-17:00. Tours and demonstrations of 19th C milling machinery. Free.
• Kirbuster Farm Museum, Hundland Rd KW17 2LR (5 miles SE of Brough. Mar-Oct M Tu F Sa 10:30-13:00 & 14:30-17:00; Th 14:00-17:00, Su 12:00-17:00; closed Nov-Feb. Illustrates a 19th-century way of life through its farmhouse with traditional stone bed and central hearth. Free.
• On the A966 east towards Evie and Tingwall, the high island seen just north is Rousay. The small island in the channel between is Eynhallow. There's the ruins of a Norse church here, and there may have been a monastery. But there's no ferry to the island, you'd need to hire a private boat.
• Broch of Gurness, Evie KW17 2NH (from A966 follow lane north. Daily 09:30-17:30. Remains of a village settled from 500-200 BC, the Iron Age. Plus artefacts in the Visitor Centre. Adult £6.
• Click Mill is an 1820 horizontal water-mill, with all its original machinery in working order. It's on Hillside Road between Evie and Dounby. Free, always open.

Earl's Palace, 1 Bridge, KW17 2LX. Always open. The masonry shell of the palace of Robert Stewart, Earl of Orkney, built in the late 16th century, and a ruin by the 18th. Robert was the first Earl; his son Patrick the second Earl built the palace at Kirkwall. Free.

Brough of Birsay. Mid-June to Sept daily 09:30-17:30 depending on the tides; closed Oct-mid June. This tidal island, run by Historic Scotland, holds Norse ruins from the 9th to 13th century; a Pictish settlement was here from the 7th century. Original artefacts have been moved to the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, and replicas placed here, and the island has been reinforced to prevent sea erosion of the sites. There's also a 1925 lighthouse and sea-bird colonies. The causeway is passable for two hours either side of low tide: check times online from "Easytide", using Stromness or Tingwall as the reference port. Adult £5.

Fishermen's Hut and Whalebone: from the Brough of Birsay carpark, walk east along the north shore. About 10 minutes down the path is a small fishermen's hut with adjacent boat rests. Down a nearby narrow stone stairway is a natural spring. A bit farther down the path is a whalebone erected in the late 19th century and a great view of the Brough.

Barony Mills, KW17 2LY (Half-mile inland from Brough, +44 1856 721 439. May-Sept daily 11:00-17:00. Tours and demonstrations of 19th C milling machinery. Free.

Kirbuster Farm Museum, Hundland Rd KW17 2LR (5 miles SE of Brough. Mar-Oct M Tu F Sa 10:30-13:00 & 14:30-17:00; Th 14:00-17:00, Su 12:00-17:00; closed Nov-Feb. Illustrates a 19th-century way of life through its farmhouse with traditional stone bed and central hearth. Free.

On the A966 east towards Evie and Tingwall, the high island seen just north is [[Rousay]]. The small island in the channel between is Eynhallow. There's the ruins of a Norse church here, and there may have been a monastery. But there's no ferry to the island, you'd need to hire a private boat.

Broch of Gurness, Evie KW17 2NH (from A966 follow lane north. Daily 09:30-17:30. Remains of a village settled from 500-200 BC, the Iron Age. Plus artefacts in the Visitor Centre. Adult £6.

Click Mill is an 1820 horizontal water-mill, with all its original machinery in working order. It's on Hillside Road between Evie and Dounby. Free, always open.

Barony Hotel (see "Sleep") rents boats for fishing on Boardhouse Loch.

Linkshouse, +44 1856 721 221. This is no longer a B&B, but runs residential courses for selected artists.

Linkshouse, +44 1856 721 221. This is no longer a B&B, but runs residential courses for selected artists.

Palace Stores (KW17 2LX, next to the palace) is the general store for everything. It's open M-Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 12:00-17:00.

• Birsay Bay Tearoom, KW17 2LX (south end of Birsay's main street. Th-M 10:30-17:00. Beautiful views of the ocean, snacks and light meals.

Birsay Bay Tearoom, KW17 2LX (south end of Birsay's main street. Th-M 10:30-17:00. Beautiful views of the ocean, snacks and light meals.

Skara Brae and the Stones of Stenness are a few miles south; beyond those reach either Stromness (for Hoy) or Kirkwall.

Following the north coast, pass Broch of Gurness and Tingwall (for the Rousay ferry) before circling back to the Kirkwall main road.