Brașov

Romania

Brașov (pronounced Bra-shov) is a city in Transylvania, Romania. It's set in the Carpathian Mountains in the centre of the country, 180 km from Bucharest. It's mostly a modern industrial city with a population of about 250,000, but the reason to visit is the well-preserved Old Town. It's also an alternative base for skiing at the nearby resort of Poiana Brașov.

Council Square (Piața Sfatului) In the Middle Ages Transylvania had Hungarian rulers, who brought in Saxon settlers. They developed the walled town known in German as Kronstadt and in Hungarian as Brassó. Later development was further out so this old centre was largely preserved. It has good tourist facilities and is well worth an extended stay: perhaps because it lacks an airport, it's not as well known to westerners as similar old towns such as Sibiu and Cluj Napoca. Shop, restaurant and hotel staff often speak English and German.

For the visitor therefore, the core of Brașov is the old town (largely pedestrianised) and adjoining Șchei district. The modern city is to the east and north, with a "centrul nou" or civic centre, and low-rise blocks sprawling to the bus and railway stations and beyond. To avoid ambiguity, directions here refer to the old town centre.

The Tourist Information Centre is in the Town History Museum on Piața Sfatului (Council Square), open daily 09:00-17:00.

Bring warm clothing, the mountain setting means that Brașov is often wet and cold, especially at night.

In the Middle Ages, Transylvania's Hungarian rulers brought in Saxon settlers, to defend and develop the area. They built up the walled city of Kronstadt, which today forms the Old Town of Brașov. Most of the city sights are here, in the pedestrianised zone centred on Council Square (Piața Sfatului) and along the spine of Republicii street. Main sights include the Piața Sfatului, the Black Church, and the former Council House. Around the walled city, you can see the Șchei and Catherine Gates, Weavers' Bastion, Black Tower, and White Tower. To the south lies Șchei district, described below. Stroll at random, or follow the route suggested in the Brasov cultural itinerary, or join one of the free guided walking tours run by Guided-Brasov.com.

Note: if you wish to take photos in any museum, you must pay an extra fee (inquire when buying tickets). In the Black Church, you cannot take photos.

  • The Black Church. Summer Tu-Sa 10:00-19:00, Su 12:00-19:00; in winter closes 16:00. Built as a Roman Catholic church in the 15th century in late Gothic style with three naves. It became Lutheran under the influence of Johannes Honter, the Luther of Romania. It was scorched by the Great Fire of 1689, hence the name "Black Church", and later restored in Baroque style. Its main features are the six-tonne bell, the 4000-pipe organ built in 1839 by Carl August Buchholz which is still played during weekly concerts, and a rich collection of Anatolian carpets, donated in the Middle Ages by city merchants. 10 lei adult, 3 lei age 7-18.
  • County History Museum, Piața Sfatului. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Local exhibits from the stone age to the present day.
  • Museum of Urban Civilisation, Piața Sfatului. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. Presents the life of the local patriciate between the 17th-20th centuries. It is a branch of Museum of Ethnography (Bulevardul Eroilor 21A), enquire about combi-tickets.
  • Mureșenilor House Memorial Museum. On main square commemorates the members of the Mureșanu family (including Andrei Mureșanu, the writer of the National Anthem). In Romanian only.
  • Poarta Șchei is the street leading down to the gates of the old town. Along it (by No 19) find Rope Street (Strada Sforii), a picturesque alley, and the Beth Israel Synagogue (entrance by No 29, open M-F 09:00-16:00, 5 lei). Old Town ends at the Șchei & St Catherine Gates. The medieval entrance and tollgate was St Catherine's Gate, which you could barely fit a horse and cart through. In 1828 it was replaced by the wider Șchei Gate and blocked off. A well-preserved section of wall runs east then north from here, with three bastions (Weavers', Spinners' opposite the cable-car station, and Drapers' to the east).
  • Weavers' Bastion, Strada Coșbuc 9. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. The best preserved and most interesting bastion of the walled city. In the courtyard there is a small building hosting a museum (a branch of the County History Museum) where you can see old weapons, and a large clay model of 17th century Brașov.
  • The White Tower and the Black Tower on the northern hillside. The view from the Black Tower balcony is especially nice and usually included in most Brașov guide books.
  • Looming over the old town is Brașov Citadel (Cetatea Brașovului). Enjoy the stroll and view from the hill but you can't visit within.
  • St Bartholomew Church. The oldest Gothic church in the city, dating to 1241. It's 1.5 km N of old town at the foot of Strada Lunga, bus 5 and 28 runs this way.

The Black Church. Summer Tu-Sa 10:00-19:00, Su 12:00-19:00; in winter closes 16:00. Built as a Roman Catholic church in the 15th century in late Gothic style with three naves. It became Lutheran under the influence of Johannes Honter, the Luther of Romania. It was scorched by the Great Fire of 1689, hence the name "Black Church", and later restored in Baroque style. Its main features are the six-tonne bell, the 4000-pipe organ built in 1839 by Carl August Buchholz which is still played during weekly concerts, and a rich collection of Anatolian carpets, donated in the Middle Ages by city merchants. 10 lei adult, 3 lei age 7-18.

County History Museum, Piața Sfatului. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Local exhibits from the stone age to the present day.

Museum of Urban Civilisation, Piața Sfatului. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. Presents the life of the local patriciate between the 17th-20th centuries. It is a branch of Museum of Ethnography (Bulevardul Eroilor 21A), enquire about combi-tickets.

Mureșenilor House Memorial Museum. On main square commemorates the members of the Mureșanu family (including Andrei Mureșanu, the writer of the National Anthem). In Romanian only.

Weavers' Bastion, Strada Coșbuc 9. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. The best preserved and most interesting bastion of the walled city. In the courtyard there is a small building hosting a museum (a branch of the County History Museum) where you can see old weapons, and a large clay model of 17th century Brașov.

St Bartholomew Church. The oldest Gothic church in the city, dating to 1241. It's 1.5 km N of old town at the foot of Strada Lunga, bus 5 and 28 runs this way.

If you're weren't Saxon, then you weren't allowed to live in medieval walled city Kronstadt, so the Romanians mostly lived in Șchei hamlet, south of the gate. Here too lived Bulgarians brought in to solve a labour shortage, who were nicknamed "Șchei" (probably from Latin "sclavis", meaning Slavs). The hamlet grew into the township of Șcheii Brașovului, centred on St Nicholas Church and Piața Unirii. It's now a charming area to stroll or stay.

  • St. Nicholas Church, Piața Unirii. The first Orthodox church of Brașov, and an old cultural and spiritual centre for the Romanians. It church dates from 1495-1512, Gothic embellished with Baroque, with fine murals by Mișu Popp.
  • First Romanian School, Piața Unirii (in the church precincts). Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. This was the first school on the territory of present-day Romania where Romanian language was used in education (previously Romanians used Church Slavonic). The school was founded in the 14th century, the present building is from 1761, now a museum presenting old books and texts.

The district continues southwest into the valley, past Tocile transport interchange, to Holy Trinity Church (Biserica Sf. Treime). Then Șchei peters out as the dead-end lane ascends towards Solomon's cliffs, a popular hiking area.

St. Nicholas Church, Piața Unirii. The first Orthodox church of Brașov, and an old cultural and spiritual centre for the Romanians. It church dates from 1495-1512, Gothic embellished with Baroque, with fine murals by Mișu Popp.

First Romanian School, Piața Unirii (in the church precincts). Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. This was the first school on the territory of present-day Romania where Romanian language was used in education (previously Romanians used Church Slavonic). The school was founded in the 14th century, the present building is from 1761, now a museum presenting old books and texts.

  • Tâmpa. This is the mountain that looms over the city, with the Hollywood-style "B-R-A-S-O-V" letters lit up at night. It's 900 m elevation, accessible by a steep one hour hike, or take the cable-car (Telecabină) which runs every 30 min to 16:00 (10 lei up, 10 lei down, 18 lei roundtrip). Stout shoes recommended on the ridge trail, and essential if snow is still lying. There's a restaurant "Teleferic" in the top cable-car station.
    The valley south of the peak is Valea Cetății, its lower slopes urbanised, but with various bosky hiking trails around and across the mountain.
  • Brașov Zoo, south edge of the city in Noua district (Take bus 17 from the city centre, bus 35 or 21 from the railway station. Tu-Su 09:00-20:00.
  • The lane SW from Schei, a dead-end for motor traffic, used to be the cart-track over the hills to Poiana Brașov and beyond. It climbs the valley through limestone karst scenery, the most prominent feature being Solomon's cliffs. (Not the biblical Solomon, but a Hungarian king who had a lucky escape here.) Bus 50 runs out here from the old centre. This area is good for hiking, biking and climbing.

Tâmpa. This is the mountain that looms over the city, with the Hollywood-style "B-R-A-S-O-V" letters lit up at night. It's 900 m elevation, accessible by a steep one hour hike, or take the cable-car (Telecabină) which runs every 30 min to 16:00 (10 lei up, 10 lei down, 18 lei roundtrip). Stout shoes recommended on the ridge trail, and essential if snow is still lying. There's a restaurant "Teleferic" in the top cable-car station.
The valley south of the peak is Valea Cetății, its lower slopes urbanised, but with various bosky hiking trails around and across the mountain.

Brașov Zoo, south edge of the city in Noua district (Take bus 17 from the city centre, bus 35 or 21 from the railway station. Tu-Su 09:00-20:00.

The lane SW from Schei, a dead-end for motor traffic, used to be the cart-track over the hills to Poiana Brașov and beyond. It climbs the valley through limestone karst scenery, the most prominent feature being Solomon's cliffs. (Not the biblical Solomon, but a Hungarian king who had a lucky escape here.) Bus 50 runs out here from the old centre. This area is good for hiking, biking and climbing.

  • Zilele Brașovului. Held in the week leading up to Orthodox Easter. It has several fairs with craftsman, wine, food, etc. It ends with the Parades of Juni on Easter Sunday (Duminica Tomii), which in 2019 will be Su 28 April, one week after the western Easter.
  • Cerbul de Aur (Golden Stag) music festival. In 2018 it celebrated 50 years of existence (though only 18 editions were held in this period). It is held in the main square, bringing lots of pop artists and musicians (but also cluttering the square with tons of heavy iron scaffolding and stage for about one month).
  • Oktoberfest. Smaller but less industrial version of the Munich event, with beer tents, music and of course sausages.
  • Brașov Philharmony. Classical concerts and recitals. 20 lei.
  • Organ concerts at the Black Church. June, September: Tu 18:00-18:30; July, August: Tu Th Sa 18:00-18:30, ticket price 8 lei
  • Mureșenilor House. Free classical music recitals
  • Brașov Opera. 20 lei.
  • Brașov Theatre. 10-15 lei.
  • Climb around in the climbing park Aventura. Tracks range from very easy to very difficult and the entrance fee is about 30 lei for one person. You can get there with several buses: line 17 (city centre), line 35 (trainstation) and line 21.
  • Climb in the biggest Romanian indoor climbing Gym Natural High . Tracks range from very easy to very difficult. Location: str. Carpatilor, inside METROM industrial zone.
  • Swim in two water parks: Paradisul Acvatic (it's open all the year) and Aqua Park.
  • Hiking and trekking - Brașov is surrounded by scenic hills and mountains, ideal for exploring. And the woodlands and limestone slopes support almost 40 species of orchids.
  • Skiing - see page for Poiana Brașov ski resort, 10 km away.
  • Transfagarașan Highway. This road twists and turns through spectacular mountain passes about 100 km west of Brașov. A private tour from Brașov for two or more people will cost 450 lei per person. Open July 1-October 31.

Zilele Brașovului. Held in the week leading up to Orthodox Easter. It has several fairs with craftsman, wine, food, etc. It ends with the Parades of Juni on Easter Sunday (Duminica Tomii), which in 2019 will be Su 28 April, one week after the western Easter.

Cerbul de Aur (Golden Stag) music festival. In 2018 it celebrated 50 years of existence (though only 18 editions were held in this period). It is held in the main square, bringing lots of pop artists and musicians (but also cluttering the square with tons of heavy iron scaffolding and stage for about one month).

Oktoberfest. Smaller but less industrial version of the Munich event, with beer tents, music and of course sausages.

Brașov Philharmony. Classical concerts and recitals. 20 lei.

Organ concerts at the Black Church. June, September: Tu 18:00-18:30; July, August: Tu Th Sa 18:00-18:30, ticket price 8 lei

Mureșenilor House. Free classical music recitals

Brașov Opera. 20 lei.

Brașov Theatre. 10-15 lei.

Climb around in the climbing park Aventura. Tracks range from very easy to very difficult and the entrance fee is about 30 lei for one person. You can get there with several buses: line 17 (city centre), line 35 (trainstation) and line 21.

Climb in the biggest Romanian indoor climbing Gym Natural High . Tracks range from very easy to very difficult. Location: str. Carpatilor, inside METROM industrial zone.

Swim in two water parks: Paradisul Acvatic (it's open all the year) and Aqua Park.

Hiking and trekking - Brașov is surrounded by scenic hills and mountains, ideal for exploring. And the woodlands and limestone slopes support almost 40 species of orchids.

Skiing - see page for [[Poiana Brașov]] ski resort, 10 km away.

Transfagarașan Highway. This road twists and turns through spectacular mountain passes about 100 km west of Brașov. A private tour from Brașov for two or more people will cost 450 lei per person. Open July 1-October 31.

The biggest shopping mall is Coresi. Others are Unirea Shopping Center, Eliana Mall, STAR, and the shops near the big Carrefour near Calea Bucuresti. For food and regular shopping the hypermarkets (Carrefour, Metro, Selgros, Kaufland) are better value. They're edge of town on the road to Bucharest, from Livada Poștei take Bus 17 and from the railway station Bus 35. A good market for local produce is Astra (Piața Astra), SE off Uranus Bvd, take Bus 6 from Livada Poștei.

Since there are lots of tourists, there's more upmarket choice, but mid-range prices are higher.

  • Fornetti is a Hungarian pastry chain with many outlets, eg at the railway station and downtown. They sell small pastry pieces stuffed with cheese or jam. Prices are fair and the quality is very high.
  • Ando's, Bvd 15 Noiembrie 6 (On main road 200 m E of old centre, +40 268 410 588. Daily, 24 hr. Fast food place with menus and sandwiches (chicken and fish) at low prices.
  • Panini - Also on 15 Noiembrie (nr. 40) is a 24/7 fast food restaurant, with great sandwiches for incredibly low prices.
  • STAR supermarket, nearby at Strada Nicolae Bălcescu 62, has decent cheap food. Just around the corner is Kebab House, serving doner kebap non-stop.

Fornetti is a Hungarian pastry chain with many outlets, eg at the railway station and downtown. They sell small pastry pieces stuffed with cheese or jam. Prices are fair and the quality is very high.

Ando's, Bvd 15 Noiembrie 6 (On main road 200 m E of old centre, +40 268 410 588. Daily, 24 hr. Fast food place with menus and sandwiches (chicken and fish) at low prices.

Panini - Also on 15 Noiembrie (nr. 40) is a 24/7 fast food restaurant, with great sandwiches for incredibly low prices.

STAR supermarket, nearby at Strada Nicolae Bălcescu 62, has decent cheap food. Just around the corner is Kebab House, serving doner kebap non-stop.

  • La Republique, Strada Republicii 33 (in old centre, +40 744 351 668. Su-Th 09:00-23:00; F Sa 09:00-00:00. French-themed pub serving a wide range of sweet and savoury crepes. Part of a chain. Inexpensive.
  • Roata Norocului, Strada Crișan 6 (500 m N of old centre at foot of road to ski resort, +40 744 548 684. Daily 10:00-23:30. Good quality Romanian fare. Good service.

La Republique, Strada Republicii 33 (in old centre, +40 744 351 668. Su-Th 09:00-23:00; F Sa 09:00-00:00. French-themed pub serving a wide range of sweet and savoury crepes. Part of a chain. Inexpensive.

Roata Norocului, Strada Crișan 6 (500 m N of old centre at foot of road to ski resort, +40 744 548 684. Daily 10:00-23:30. Good quality Romanian fare. Good service.

  • Bistro de l'Arte, Piața George Enescu 11 (in old centre, +40 720 535 566. M-Sa 09:00-01:00; Su 12:00-01:00. French style restaurant but also burgers & breakfasts. Madame is idiosyncratic about who she admits.

Bistro de l'Arte, Piața George Enescu 11 (in old centre, +40 720 535 566. M-Sa 09:00-01:00; Su 12:00-01:00. French style restaurant but also burgers & breakfasts. Madame is idiosyncratic about who she admits.

  • For Sale Pub, Bvd 15 Noiembre 24 (100 m east of old town. Daily 13:00-23:30. Friendly long-established pub.
  • Old Firm Pub, Strada Hirscher 12 (On corner of Poarta Șchei. Daily 08:00-01:00. Scottish themed pub. Nice atmosphere, rugs covering everything. It has darts and a big plasma TV screen for football games. Wide selection of beers and they also serve breakfast.
  • Deane's Irish Pub & Grill, Strada Republicii 19. Daily 10:00-03:00. You can get Guinness, a host of Irish coffees and an Ulster Fry.

For Sale Pub, Bvd 15 Noiembre 24 (100 m east of old town. Daily 13:00-23:30. Friendly long-established pub.

Old Firm Pub, Strada Hirscher 12 (On corner of Poarta Șchei. Daily 08:00-01:00. Scottish themed pub. Nice atmosphere, rugs covering everything. It has darts and a big plasma TV screen for football games. Wide selection of beers and they also serve breakfast.

Deane's Irish Pub & Grill, Strada Republicii 19. Daily 10:00-03:00. You can get Guinness, a host of Irish coffees and an Ulster Fry.

Brașov is very safe for visitors, and the main tourist areas are well-policed. As in most Romanian cities, be on your guard against pickpockets and scams.

  • Keep your valuables close, especially in the crowded tourist areas in the city center, on buses, and in restaurants
  • If you plan to get a taxi, make sure it belongs to a company, and prices and phone number are written on the door. Especially avoid taxis that stand in the first line (near the sidewalk) on the right as you exit the train station.
  • Exchange bureaux have a bad reputation for scams: see Romania article. Shop around for decent rates: the exchanges by the bus & railway stations have poor rates, and for less common currencies such as Canadian or Australian dollars the rate will be poor everywhere.

The forests around Brașov have a large population of bears, and sometimes they approach town to feed from dumpsters. This is the Eurasian Brown Bear, Ursus arctos arctos, which will eat any sheep left unguarded but seldom attacks humans unless it feels threatened. Keep your distance, and in the woods make noise so you don't startle them.

Most shops and businesses accept credit and debit cards. For cash, there are many ATMs: it's best to use those next to a bank, and during regular business hours, so you've some recourse if it doesn't pay out. The ATM should also display a support phone number: note this before entering your PIN.

Currency exchange is best done at a major bank, such as the BCR, BNR, BT, or Raiffeisen Bank - they're efficient, honest, and trade all the main currencies. You'll need your passport. BCR headquarters on 15 Noiembrie Street has an exchange ATM that converts EUR, USD, GBP and CHF into lei at the bank's official rates and is available 24/7.

Easy day trips from Brașov include:

  • Râșnov with its great fortress and abundant history is only 16 km southwest. Take train or frequent bus.
  • Bran, another 10 km further, has a striking castle, but is tourist-trippy and overplays the Dracula connection.
  • Poiana Brașov is a big ski resort 10 km above Brașov. Frequent buses, lots of tourist facilities.
  • Prejmer is a village 12 km east with a fortified church.
  • Feldioara fortress is 15 km north.

Further away:

  • Făgăraș, to the north, has a fortress, and a little way beyond it is Sâmbăta de Sus fortress and monastery
  • Sighișoara is a medieval fortified town teetering on a hilltop, and birthplace of Dracula. It's 120 km north and reached by train or bus. With your own transport, detour along the way to see Hoghiz, Racoș, Rupea and Viscri.
  • Sibiu is the star attraction of Transylvania, a splendidly preserved medieval city, about 3 hours away by bus or train.
  • Heading south, Pitești (120 km) is the last town that feels "Transylvanian". It's reached via Bran and the Rucar pass across the mountains. On the way, detour to Curtea de Argeș, an old Wallachian fortress.
  • Further south, you come down to the flat fields of Wallachia, and the highway races away to Bucharest.