Bruges

Bruges (Dutch: Brugge) is a picturesque city in Flanders, the northern part of Belgium. Once Europe's richest city, now both cosmopolitan and bourgeois in its compact size, it is one of the best preserved pre-motorised cities in Europe and offers the kind of charms rarely available other than in Europe.

Even by Belgian standards, Bruges has a poor reputation for its weather. Compared to other western European cities like London and Paris, the weather in Bruges is colder and damper. Even in July and August, average daily maximum temperatures struggle to exceed 21°C (70°F) and rainfall averages 203 mm (8 in) a month. In autumn, temperatures drop off quite rapidly and winter months are damp and chilly.

The summer visitor should always be prepared for rain in Bruges and that warm and sunny weather is not constant during that season. The daily and monthly temperature variations are quite small - average highs and average lows don't exceed a range of 9°C (or 16°F).

Bruges has been known as a "dead city" for many years. The sanding of the harbour and the difficulties to dig canals in the sand caused heavy economical burdens on the city between the Middle Ages and the 20th century. The population managed to survive but did not grow as there was no new industrial activity during that period.

As a result, once over the encircling canal and inside the city walls, Bruges closes in around you with street after street of charming historic houses and a canal always nearby. The newly cleaned houses and the small canals should however not confuse you; they are truly centuries old. And if you can get away from the chocolate shops, you can visit some more quiet areas such as St. Anna, and imagine what life in the late Middle Ages must have been like. The historic center of Bruges and its belfry are s.

The Brugge City Card provides free admission to most of the major attractions and can be picked up at any of the hostels around town or at the information office on the Markt. The reduced rate cannot be used in conjunction with a student rate (both student and city card rates are identical) and hence is most useful for older travellers.

Several Youth Hostels, and probably the train station and tourist information offer a useful map with some very interesting, 'non-tourist' places to see during the day and some unique places to visit at night. It provides a good way of getting an authentic feel for the town whilst avoiding the tourist hotspots and allows you to find some hidden gems.

Some highlights:

• Groeninge Museum, Dijver 12. Daily 09:30-17:00. Known as 'The city museum of Fine Arts', it houses a collection of artworks that span several centuries (14th-20th), focusing mainly on works by painters who lived and worked in Bruges. / (audioguide and ticket to Arents House and Forum+ included in the entrance).
• Basilica of the Holy Blood (Heilige Bloed Basiliek), Burg 13. Daily 09:30—12:30 & 14:00—17:30. A beautiful church on the Burg square. It houses a relic - a vial of blood that is said to be that of Jesus - and was built in the Gothic style. Try and get there early so you can view the chapel when it is quiet and not filled with tourists. And don't forget to visit the chapel underneath, in heavy Romanesque style - a contrast to the lovely light Gothic above. Free. Museum/Treasure Room:.
• Brewery De Halve Maan, Walplein 26, +32 50 332-697. Apr-Oct: M-Sa 11:00-16:00, Su 11:00-17:00. This brewery is the only remaining city brewery that's actually still brewing beer inside the city walls. It's also a beer museum and offers a tour of the beer making process. A history of the brewery is provided, as well as an overview of the city from its tower. The tour lasts for 45min and is a good way to get a feel for Belgian beer making. The tours start at the exact turn of the hour, be at least fifteen minutes early as there is a maximum number of people that can join. The entrance price includes one drink of Brugse Zot or Straffe Hendrik and is served after the tour at the outside terrace or indoor bar. including 1 beer ( if booked online).
• 2-be Beer Wall and Bar, Wollestraat 53. On the court of a former major's house, "all Belgian beers" are exposed permanently. At the back of the wall, it's also possible to drink a lot of those beers.
• Onze Lieve Vrouwkerk, Mariastraat. A fascinating church with architecture from the Romanesque and Gothic periods. In the east end of the church are very fine tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter Mary of Burgundy - in contrasting Gothic and Renaissance styles, despite their superficial similarity. The church also houses one of the few Michelangelo sculptures outside of Italy, the "Madonna with child". To see the "Madonna with Child" an entrance fee of for 18 to 26, 26 to 64 is, over 65 is, and under 17 is free. Free.
• Simbolik - Open Studio and Expo of Nathalie Beelprez, Katelijnestraat 139, +32 495 307056. Th-Sa 10:00-18:00, other days by appointment. A house, an open studio where thoughts and ideas are born, a place where Beelprez can mix these thoughts and feelings in a symbolic language of forms, her soul, her calligraphy, her world, her language. While she works in her studio, her expo is open for anyone who wants to let time go, read forms and see letters. An open immersion in texts and forms that excite your senses. Selection of handmade letterwork, wall objects, light objects, painted on canvas, letters in ceramics, writing on walls, also work on demand. Also, every first Sunday of the month at 15:00 is Poëziene: a place where poets, musicians or performers bring their own work to Simbolik. Free entrance.
• Jerusalem church. In a quiet area of the city, a highly unusual church with octagonal tower built by the Adornes brothers, merchants of Italian extraction. It includes a fine black Tournai marble tomb, late Gothic stained glass, and a tiny and rather spooky chapel containing an effigy of the dead Christ. The entrance fee also covers the Lace Museum in the former Adornes mansion, where you can see local women and girls learning this traditional craft.
• The Beguinage (Begijnhof). In the history, many women couldn't find a man, as men were more likely to die in accidents or in a war. Those women could "marry God" and become a beguine. The beguinage, also known as the convent, offered protection for those single ladies. It lies between the centre of the city and the station, with white painted small houses and fine plane trees, is a quiet place to walk - groups are discouraged.
• The Hospital of St John, Mariastraat 38. Tu-Su 09:30-17:00. Sint-Janshospitaal contains a museum of six paintings by Hans Memling, within the early medieval hospital buildings. .
• Choco-Story Museum, Wijnzakstraat 2 (Sint-Jansplein), +32 50 612237. 10:00-17:00. This museum is a must see for chocolate enthusiasts as it describes chocolate's transition from cocoa into chocolate. Its low-cost tasty exhibits make it well worth the time (and Belcolade's gently overt marketing). Be sure to stay for the chocolate making exhibition to get some excellent samplers. .
• Diamond Museum, Katelijnestraat 43, +32 50 336326. 10:30-17:30. Diamond museum has a large range of exhibits ranging from mining all the way to polishing and all the history in between. Everyday at 12:15 there is a live polishing demonstration. Individuals, Groups, Students.

Bruges is visited by a huge number of tourists and it sometimes becomes quite annoying, especially around the Markt and Burg squares. The important thing to remember, however, is that very few tourists venture far away from the main shopping area, so if you want some peace and quiet you should simply explore the many small cobbled streets away from the main squares.

• Lucifernum, twijnstraat 6-8 (city centre. Su 18:00-21:00. An amazing (private) art gallery with a Gothic cemetery in a subtropical garden located in the old Freemasons temple (1756-1882). 1,000m² of art and mystery in Bruges' old city centre. .

• Kruispoort, Langestraat. Part of the second city ramparts of 1297. The current gate dates back to the beginning of the 15th century.
• Smedenpoort, Smedenstraat. The first gate was built in 1297-1299 but was rebuilt in 1376-1378. After that there were several changes to the building. The gate is completely surrounded by water. A renovation in 2009 made the gate look shining again.
• Ezelpoort, Ezelstraat. Just like the Smedenpoort this gate is completely surrounded by water. Nowadays the gate is only used by pedestrians and cyclists. The gate previously also was called the Oostendsche Poort (Ostend Gate) since the road through the gate lead to Ostend.
• Gentpoort, Gentpoortstraat. One of the four remaining city gates of the second city ramparts of 1297. In the gate building is housed a museum.

Kruispoort, Langestraat. Part of the second city ramparts of 1297. The current gate dates back to the beginning of the 15th century.

Smedenpoort, Smedenstraat. The first gate was built in 1297-1299 but was rebuilt in 1376-1378. After that there were several changes to the building. The gate is completely surrounded by water. A renovation in 2009 made the gate look shining again.

Ezelpoort, Ezelstraat. Just like the Smedenpoort this gate is completely surrounded by water. Nowadays the gate is only used by pedestrians and cyclists. The gate previously also was called the Oostendsche Poort (Ostend Gate) since the road through the gate lead to Ostend.

Gentpoort, Gentpoortstraat. One of the four remaining city gates of the second city ramparts of 1297. In the gate building is housed a museum.

Groeninge Museum, Dijver 12. Daily 09:30-17:00. Known as 'The city museum of Fine Arts', it houses a collection of artworks that span several centuries (14th-20th), focusing mainly on works by painters who lived and worked in Bruges. / (audioguide and ticket to Arents House and Forum+ included in the entrance).

Basilica of the Holy Blood (Heilige Bloed Basiliek), Burg 13. Daily 09:30—12:30 & 14:00—17:30. A beautiful church on the Burg square. It houses a relic - a vial of blood that is said to be that of Jesus - and was built in the Gothic style. Try and get there early so you can view the chapel when it is quiet and not filled with tourists. And don't forget to visit the chapel underneath, in heavy Romanesque style - a contrast to the lovely light Gothic above. Free. Museum/Treasure Room:.

Brewery De Halve Maan, Walplein 26, +32 50 332-697. Apr-Oct: M-Sa 11:00-16:00, Su 11:00-17:00. This brewery is the only remaining city brewery that's actually still brewing beer inside the city walls. It's also a beer museum and offers a tour of the beer making process. A history of the brewery is provided, as well as an overview of the city from its tower. The tour lasts for 45min and is a good way to get a feel for Belgian beer making. The tours start at the exact turn of the hour, be at least fifteen minutes early as there is a maximum number of people that can join. The entrance price includes one drink of Brugse Zot or Straffe Hendrik and is served after the tour at the outside terrace or indoor bar. including 1 beer ( if booked online).

2-be Beer Wall and Bar, Wollestraat 53. On the court of a former major's house, "all Belgian beers" are exposed permanently. At the back of the wall, it's also possible to drink a lot of those beers.

Onze Lieve Vrouwkerk, Mariastraat. A fascinating church with architecture from the Romanesque and Gothic periods. In the east end of the church are very fine tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter Mary of Burgundy - in contrasting Gothic and Renaissance styles, despite their superficial similarity. The church also houses one of the few Michelangelo sculptures outside of Italy, the "Madonna with child". To see the "Madonna with Child" an entrance fee of for 18 to 26, 26 to 64 is, over 65 is, and under 17 is free. Free.

Simbolik - Open Studio and Expo of Nathalie Beelprez, Katelijnestraat 139, +32 495 307056. Th-Sa 10:00-18:00, other days by appointment. A house, an open studio where thoughts and ideas are born, a place where Beelprez can mix these thoughts and feelings in a symbolic language of forms, her soul, her calligraphy, her world, her language. While she works in her studio, her expo is open for anyone who wants to let time go, read forms and see letters. An open immersion in texts and forms that excite your senses. Selection of handmade letterwork, wall objects, light objects, painted on canvas, letters in ceramics, writing on walls, also work on demand. Also, every first Sunday of the month at 15:00 is Poëziene: a place where poets, musicians or performers bring their own work to Simbolik. Free entrance.

Jerusalem church. In a quiet area of the city, a highly unusual church with octagonal tower built by the Adornes brothers, merchants of Italian extraction. It includes a fine black Tournai marble tomb, late Gothic stained glass, and a tiny and rather spooky chapel containing an effigy of the dead Christ. The entrance fee also covers the Lace Museum in the former Adornes mansion, where you can see local women and girls learning this traditional craft.

The Beguinage (Begijnhof). In the history, many women couldn't find a man, as men were more likely to die in accidents or in a war. Those women could "marry God" and become a beguine. The beguinage, also known as the convent, offered protection for those single ladies. It lies between the centre of the city and the station, with white painted small houses and fine plane trees, is a quiet place to walk - groups are discouraged.

The Hospital of St John, Mariastraat 38. Tu-Su 09:30-17:00. Sint-Janshospitaal contains a museum of six paintings by Hans Memling, within the early medieval hospital buildings. .

Choco-Story Museum, Wijnzakstraat 2 (Sint-Jansplein), +32 50 612237. 10:00-17:00. This museum is a must see for chocolate enthusiasts as it describes chocolate's transition from cocoa into chocolate. Its low-cost tasty exhibits make it well worth the time (and Belcolade's gently overt marketing). Be sure to stay for the chocolate making exhibition to get some excellent samplers. .

Diamond Museum, Katelijnestraat 43, +32 50 336326. 10:30-17:30. Diamond museum has a large range of exhibits ranging from mining all the way to polishing and all the history in between. Everyday at 12:15 there is a live polishing demonstration. Individuals, Groups, Students.

Lucifernum, twijnstraat 6-8 (city centre. Su 18:00-21:00. An amazing (private) art gallery with a [[Gothic]] cemetery in a subtropical garden located in the old Freemasons temple (1756-1882). 1,000m² of art and mystery in Bruges' old city centre. .

• Grote Markt and Belfry Climb, Grote Markt (the big square. Tu-Su 09:30-17:00. Climb the 366 steps to the top of the 83m high tower. Excellent views of the city, Grote Markt and hear the bells ring up close. with Bruges card / for adults 26-64 / other discounts for children, youth and seniors..
• Canal Tour. It's essential to take a ride on one of the tour boats around the canals - the multilingual guides provide a potted history of the city in just a few minutes - at only a few euros, it's the best introduction to Bruges. A boat tour will show you places which are otherwise unreachable, as not every canal runs next to a street. Advisable to get there at opening time to avoid the crowds. plus almost obligatory tip to the driver/guide.
• Horse drawn carts, Grote Markt. Carriages can be hired for a romantic 30min trip around the old city of Bruge. Carts can carry up to 5 passengers. .
• Ambassadors of Bruges (Free) Walking Tours, Markt (In front of the Belfry Tower, look for the yellow umbrellas, +31641743530. English: 10:30, 13:30 - Spanish: 11:00, 14:00. Passionate local storytellers offer tours in the medieval city center. No old-fashioned detail tour, but engaging stories to bring history to life. € Pay-What-You-Want.
• Bruges Ballooning, Markt, +32 47 597 2887. am & pm. Daily hot air balloon flights over the historic centre and its surroundings. The best way to enjoy the romance of Bruges, and its stunning views, from a few hundred metres up in a balloon basket. .
• Cycle, Burg Square. There are many rental shops near the main square, shop around for the best prices. You can also rent right at the train station and get to the city centre quickly; remember to return them by 19:30. Cycle 5km to Damme, a picturesque village on the river with a windmill and excellent pancakes, and optionally follow on to the coast (another 15km). for 4 hr at most places, for the day.
• Running. If you are a runner, try running the 7-km circle around the old centre. Walk along the canal and see all of the medieval gates that used to control the traffic in and out of Bruges. Simply stunning!
• Compare the real Bruges to the one depicted in the movie In Bruges.
• Watch football ie soccer. The city has two teams playing in First Division A, the top tier of Belgian football, Club Brugge KV and newly promoted KSV Cercle Brugge. They share the Jan Breydel stadium, capacity 29,000, in Sint-Andries district 2 km west of the centre.

Grote Markt and Belfry Climb, Grote Markt (the big square. Tu-Su 09:30-17:00. Climb the 366 steps to the top of the 83m high tower. Excellent views of the city, Grote Markt and hear the bells ring up close. with Bruges card / for adults 26-64 / other discounts for children, youth and seniors..

Canal Tour. It's essential to take a ride on one of the tour boats around the canals - the multilingual guides provide a potted history of the city in just a few minutes - at only a few euros, it's the best introduction to Bruges. A boat tour will show you places which are otherwise unreachable, as not every canal runs next to a street. Advisable to get there at opening time to avoid the crowds. plus almost obligatory tip to the driver/guide.

Horse drawn carts, Grote Markt. Carriages can be hired for a romantic 30min trip around the old city of Bruge. Carts can carry up to 5 passengers. .

Ambassadors of Bruges (Free) Walking Tours, Markt (In front of the Belfry Tower, look for the yellow umbrellas, +31641743530. English: 10:30, 13:30 - Spanish: 11:00, 14:00. Passionate local storytellers offer tours in the medieval city center. No old-fashioned detail tour, but engaging stories to bring history to life. € Pay-What-You-Want.

Bruges Ballooning, Markt, +32 47 597 2887. am & pm. Daily hot air balloon flights over the historic centre and its surroundings. The best way to enjoy the romance of Bruges, and its stunning views, from a few hundred metres up in a balloon basket. .

Cycle, Burg Square. There are many rental shops near the main square, shop around for the best prices. You can also rent right at the train station and get to the city centre quickly; remember to return them by 19:30. Cycle 5km to Damme, a picturesque village on the river with a windmill and excellent pancakes, and optionally follow on to the coast (another 15km). for 4 hr at most places, for the day.

Running. If you are a runner, try running the 7-km circle around the old centre. Walk along the canal and see all of the medieval gates that used to control the traffic in and out of Bruges. Simply stunning!

Compare the real Bruges to the one depicted in the movie In Bruges.

Watch football ie soccer. The city has two teams playing in First Division A, the top tier of Belgian football, Club Brugge KV and newly promoted KSV Cercle Brugge. They share the Jan Breydel stadium, capacity 29,000, in Sint-Andries district 2 km west of the centre.

Chocolate shops are plentiful and the standard is always high. A fairly cheap option is Stef's on Breidelstraat (between Markt and Burg). If you are willing to spend a little more, Chocolatier Van Oost on Wollestraat is a must for high-quality artisanal chocolate. Word on the street is, that you can get anything covered in chocolate and moulded. There is a particular vast number of chocolate shops at the Katelijnestraat.

For those who do not wish to buy chocolate in the chocolate shops, the local supermarkets also sell a good variety of mass-produced chocolate at fairly low prices. For the frugal, you can buy 100-200 g gourmet bars of chocolate for about each. Good brands to buy are Côte-d'Or and Jacques, both are Belgian. If you don't want anything more than a sampling of the most famous Belgian beers, supermarkets (not night shops!) are probably your best choice. They even have gift packs with glasses. There are also many boutique-style beer shops that sell high-quality gift packs of Belgian beer.

There are plenty of arts and crafts shops too, with some excellent local artists. The lacework is risky: if everything sold was produced locally, the entire town would be working in the lace industry! There is a school for lace though, where you can still get "the real thing".

Most European tourists come for the weekend, so shops are open Tuesday through Sunday, but many shops and museums are closed on Mondays. Be sure to plan ahead.

• Dumon, Eiermarkt 6, +32 50 34 62 82. Excellent, very high-end chocolate creations. They also make chocolate drinks.
• Het Chocoladehuisje, Wollestraat 15, +32 50 34 02 50. Artisan chocolates. Place where you can buy the original chocolate breasts. Has a nice piece in their window on special occasions.
• The Chocolate Line, Simon Stevinplein 19, +32 50 34 10 90. Almost always has original and funny chocolate-art in their window. Run by a (locally) famous chocolatier, Dominique Persoone

Dumon, Eiermarkt 6, +32 50 34 62 82. Excellent, very high-end chocolate creations. They also make chocolate drinks.

Het Chocoladehuisje, Wollestraat 15, +32 50 34 02 50. Artisan chocolates. Place where you can buy the original chocolate breasts. Has a nice piece in their window on special occasions.

The Chocolate Line, Simon Stevinplein 19, +32 50 34 10 90. Almost always has original and funny chocolate-art in their window. Run by a (locally) famous chocolatier, Dominique Persoone

Restaurants are not always cheap or wonderful, although mussels and frites or fricadellen, frites with mayonnaise are outstanding here.

Stay away from the central market place ("Grote Markt") and the Burg Square when eating. Tourists are easy victims here. One tactic used by tourist traps is to present items (e.g. bread) as if they were free with your meal, then charge you exorbitantly for them. Even water may be charged at an exorbitant for a small bottle. Another scheme to bilk the voyager is to quote absurdly-high initial prices (such as for a single serving of fries), then claim to be offering "a 10% discount for locals".

You will, however, find great food if you wander off the beaten track. Find a street with more locals than tourists and ask somebody. The locals will be glad to help. Avoid Carillon in the Geldmunstraat however, they are overpriced and only offer mediocre food quality.

• Books & Brunch, Garenmarkt 30, +32 50 70 90 79. Tu-F 8:30-18:00, Sa 09:00-18:00. An ideal combo of second hand book store and a brunch/dessert-eatery (but you can just have a cup of coffee or a tea too).
• Brasserie Forestière, Academiestraat 11. Nice and calm restaurant, good food, not too expensive. Good menu for vegetarians. Meal of the day (soup, main dish, dessert or coffee/tea) costs although this is the cheapest menu it has little choice.
• De Drie Zintuigen, Westmeers 29, +32 50 34 09 94. Off the beaten track but not far from all the bars, this lovely restaurant does more than moules et frites. Prices are about a head and the atmosphere is nice too.
• L'Estaminet, Park 5. Good food, nice terrace, cool bartender. Try the renowned spaghetti for or the delicious croque monsieur.
• La Romagna, Braambergstraat 8. Excellent family-run Italian restaurant and pizzeria. Inexpensive. Good menu for vegetarians.
• In 't Nieuw Museum, Hooistraat 42, +32 50331280. Belgian grill restaurant, well off the tourist track. Excellent steaks, reasonable prices.
• De Bottelier, Ezelstraat (close to Sint-Jacobsstraat. A favourite restaurant of many of Bruges' residents. Very reasonable prices and excellent food. Closed Sunday and Monday nights.
• Marieke van Brugghe, Mariastraat 17, +32 50 34 33 60. Small but good restaurant that attracts the locals. Fixed menu for
• Tom's Diner, West Gistelhof 23. Fantastic upmarket take on satisfying, home cooked food. Prices are reasonable, as well.
• Kok au Vin, Ezelstraat 19/21, +32 50 33 95 21. Memorable Kok au Vin (both the entrée and the restaurant); the prices are reasonable for the high quality. Family owned and run. Reservations recommended.
• Petite Aneth, Maria van Bourgondiëlaan 1, +32 50 31 11 89. With only 7 tables, small and cosy, with a personal touch.
• Brasserie Medard, Sint-Amandsstraat 18, +32 50 34 86 84. Huge deal for low budget just near the centre: a mountain of (tasty) spaghetti with tomato sauce, cheese, and mushrooms for . Two options on the menu: vegetarian, non-vegetarian - both at the same price. Double its size for just extra. Unbeatable. Very cheap beer too (kriek at ). Most tables order the spaghetti. Tourists aren't welcome until they sit - be sure to sit down and impose your presence to be served. Be warned that if you wait to be seated, you are likely to be sent away for no reason. Bring your own musical instruments.
• 't Gulden Vlies, Mallebergplaats 17, +32 5033 4709. 19:00—3:00. An excellent night restaurant. Small romantic restaurant east of the Burg with excellent food and reasonable prices. Menus from.
• Cambrinus, Philipstockstraat 19 (near the market place, +32 5033 2328. 11:00-23:00 daily. This is a very popular place, and for a reason. They have some of the best selection of Belgian beers, more than 440 in total. Some beers have really odd names like Satan, Lucifer, Nostradamus, or the Brunette. It's primarily a restaurant though, as all their hearty food are prepared with a special kind of beer. It's really delicious. Mains go for, but they also have the prix fixe "Menu van de Brouwer", which features several Trappist beers. Make a reservation in advance, as else they might not have any seats available. .
• Le Pain Quotidien, Simon Stevinplein 15, +32 50 34 29 21. A sandwich chain founded in Brussels but now found in the US, France and a number of other countries. Most of the food is organic, and the sandwiches (in particular the Tartine Bouef Basilic) are delicious. Somewhat expensive.
• Maximiliaan van Oostenrijk, Wijngaardplein 16, +32 50 33 47 23. Midrange restaurant offering plenty to eat including oysters and meat cooked several ways plus, of course, frites. There is not much for vegetarians.
• Grand Cafe Passage, Dweersstraat 26, +32 5034 0232. Attached to the Passage hotel/hostel (see below) is the atmospheric Grand Café, serving traditional Belgian cuisine and beers. Prices are slightly lower than the tourist traps and well worth it. Try the beef stew (very tender) or the ribs.
• Trattoria Trium, Academiestraat 27, +32 50333060. This is a great spot to have a nice dish of pasta or pizza and is fully Italian. They also sell olive oil, pasta sauces and other authentic products. The decor has a warm home feeling. Try out their antipasto and the excellent house wine. .
• Den Gouden Harynck, Groeninge 25, +32 50337637. Gastronomic restaurant which offers three course meals at very reasonable prices.
• Chocolaterie Spegelaere, Ezelstraat 92, +32 50336052. Bruges best kept secret, a place for chocolate-lovers.
• Curiosa, Vlamingstraat 22 (just off the main square, +32 50 34 23 34. A good place for a lunch as well as a beer.

Books & Brunch, Garenmarkt 30, +32 50 70 90 79. Tu-F 8:30-18:00, Sa 09:00-18:00. An ideal combo of second hand book store and a brunch/dessert-eatery (but you can just have a cup of coffee or a tea too).

Brasserie Forestière, Academiestraat 11. Nice and calm restaurant, good food, not too expensive. Good menu for vegetarians. Meal of the day (soup, main dish, dessert or coffee/tea) costs although this is the cheapest menu it has little choice.

De Drie Zintuigen, Westmeers 29, +32 50 34 09 94. Off the beaten track but not far from all the bars, this lovely restaurant does more than moules et frites. Prices are about a head and the atmosphere is nice too.

L'Estaminet, Park 5. Good food, nice terrace, cool bartender. Try the renowned spaghetti for or the delicious croque monsieur.

La Romagna, Braambergstraat 8. Excellent family-run Italian restaurant and pizzeria. Inexpensive. Good menu for vegetarians.

In 't Nieuw Museum, Hooistraat 42, +32 50331280. Belgian grill restaurant, well off the tourist track. Excellent steaks, reasonable prices.

De Bottelier, Ezelstraat (close to Sint-Jacobsstraat. A favourite restaurant of many of Bruges' residents. Very reasonable prices and excellent food. Closed Sunday and Monday nights.

Marieke van Brugghe, Mariastraat 17, +32 50 34 33 60. Small but good restaurant that attracts the locals. Fixed menu for

Tom's Diner, West Gistelhof 23. Fantastic upmarket take on satisfying, home cooked food. Prices are reasonable, as well.

Kok au Vin, Ezelstraat 19/21, +32 50 33 95 21. Memorable Kok au Vin (both the entrée and the restaurant); the prices are reasonable for the high quality. Family owned and run. Reservations recommended.

Petite Aneth, Maria van Bourgondiëlaan 1, +32 50 31 11 89. With only 7 tables, small and cosy, with a personal touch.

Brasserie Medard, Sint-Amandsstraat 18, +32 50 34 86 84. Huge deal for low budget just near the centre: a mountain of (tasty) spaghetti with tomato sauce, cheese, and mushrooms for . Two options on the menu: vegetarian, non-vegetarian - both at the same price. Double its size for just extra. Unbeatable. Very cheap beer too (kriek at ). Most tables order the spaghetti. Tourists aren't welcome until they sit - be sure to sit down and impose your presence to be served. Be warned that if you wait to be seated, you are likely to be sent away for no reason. Bring your own musical instruments.

't Gulden Vlies, Mallebergplaats 17, +32 5033 4709. 19:00—3:00. An excellent night restaurant. Small romantic restaurant east of the Burg with excellent food and reasonable prices. Menus from.

Cambrinus, Philipstockstraat 19 (near the market place, +32 5033 2328. 11:00-23:00 daily. This is a very popular place, and for a reason. They have some of the best selection of Belgian beers, more than 440 in total. Some beers have really odd names like Satan, Lucifer, Nostradamus, or the Brunette. It's primarily a restaurant though, as all their hearty food are prepared with a special kind of beer. It's really delicious. Mains go for, but they also have the prix fixe "Menu van de Brouwer", which features several Trappist beers. Make a reservation in advance, as else they might not have any seats available. .

Le Pain Quotidien, Simon Stevinplein 15, +32 50 34 29 21. A sandwich chain founded in Brussels but now found in the US, France and a number of other countries. Most of the food is organic, and the sandwiches (in particular the Tartine Bouef Basilic) are delicious. Somewhat expensive.

Maximiliaan van Oostenrijk, Wijngaardplein 16, +32 50 33 47 23. Midrange restaurant offering plenty to eat including oysters and meat cooked several ways plus, of course, frites. There is not much for vegetarians.

Grand Cafe Passage, Dweersstraat 26, +32 5034 0232. Attached to the Passage hotel/hostel (see below) is the atmospheric Grand Café, serving traditional Belgian cuisine and beers. Prices are slightly lower than the tourist traps and well worth it. Try the beef stew (very tender) or the ribs.

Trattoria Trium, Academiestraat 27, +32 50333060. This is a great spot to have a nice dish of pasta or pizza and is fully Italian. They also sell olive oil, pasta sauces and other authentic products. The decor has a warm home feeling. Try out their antipasto and the excellent house wine. .

Den Gouden Harynck, Groeninge 25, +32 50337637. Gastronomic restaurant which offers three course meals at very reasonable prices.

Chocolaterie Spegelaere, Ezelstraat 92, +32 50336052. Bruges best kept secret, a place for chocolate-lovers.

Curiosa, Vlamingstraat 22 (just off the main square, +32 50 34 23 34. A good place for a lunch as well as a beer.

• De Garre, 1, De Garre (When walking from De Markt to De Burg via the Breydelstraat, find a small door between two shops on your right side to enter De Garre street. The pub itself is the only door inside that street., +32 50 34 10 29. Hidden in a backyard, this pub offers a nice atmosphere and about 100 different kinds of beer, including home-brewed ones. The house beer is called 'Triple de Garre' and is 11% strong, a good way to start the night. The pub is very often full, but there's a limit of two drinks per person, which means that new places become available pretty quickly.
• 't Brugs Beertje, Kemelstraat, +32 50 33 96 16. This excellent pub (recommended in the CAMRA guide to the Benelux region) has hundreds of different beers and an authentic beer-cafe atmosphere. Clientele is majority tourists. The front bar is crowded; what looks like the door through to the restrooms opens on another bar area. In 2005 it was closed for most of July - this might be an annual occurrence.
• Café Vlissinghe, Blekersstraat 2 (on the way to the Jerusalem church, +32 50 34 37 37. closed Mondays and Tuesdays. One of the less touristy bars, with a nice selection of draught and bottled beers. It's probably the oldest pub in Bruges dating from 1515.
• The area just north of the performing arts centre has various cafes, most with sufficient beer selections, such as Café Leffe.
• The Druid's Cellar, Sint-Amandsstraat 11/b, +32 50614144. A very nice cosy place to drink a beer and listen to some good music. The bar is located underground and actually gives the impression of a cellar. Usually plays rock music. The bar has a wide selection of drinks, from simple beer to 16-year-old Bushmills whisky.
• Délisa 'Délices & Saveurs', Jan van Eyckplein 7, +32 50 34 09 89. Just a short walk from the Markt, this place undoubtably has some of the best coffee in Bruges. With a genuine espresso machine, the Conti, and a passion for good quality, the owner Sabine, is great for a chat and a good coffee for only .

De Garre, 1, De Garre (When walking from De Markt to De Burg via the Breydelstraat, find a small door between two shops on your right side to enter De Garre street. The pub itself is the only door inside that street., +32 50 34 10 29. Hidden in a backyard, this pub offers a nice atmosphere and about 100 different kinds of beer, including home-brewed ones. The house beer is called 'Triple de Garre' and is 11% strong, a good way to start the night. The pub is very often full, but there's a limit of two drinks per person, which means that new places become available pretty quickly.

't Brugs Beertje, Kemelstraat, +32 50 33 96 16. This excellent pub (recommended in the CAMRA guide to the Benelux region) has hundreds of different beers and an authentic beer-cafe atmosphere. Clientele is majority tourists. The front bar is crowded; what looks like the door through to the restrooms opens on another bar area. In 2005 it was closed for most of July - this might be an annual occurrence.

Café Vlissinghe, Blekersstraat 2 (on the way to the Jerusalem church, +32 50 34 37 37. closed Mondays and Tuesdays. One of the less touristy bars, with a nice selection of draught and bottled beers. It's probably the oldest pub in Bruges dating from 1515.

The area just north of the performing arts centre has various cafes, most with sufficient beer selections, such as Café Leffe.

The Druid's Cellar, Sint-Amandsstraat 11/b, +32 50614144. A very nice cosy place to drink a beer and listen to some good music. The bar is located underground and actually gives the impression of a cellar. Usually plays rock music. The bar has a wide selection of drinks, from simple beer to 16-year-old Bushmills whisky.

Délisa 'Délices & Saveurs', Jan van Eyckplein 7, +32 50 34 09 89. Just a short walk from the Markt, this place undoubtably has some of the best coffee in Bruges. With a genuine espresso machine, the Conti, and a passion for good quality, the owner Sabine, is great for a chat and a good coffee for only .

The most popular day trips from Bruges:

• Damme is a small town near Bruges. A seasonal riverboat goes there on a cruise of 35 minutes each way. It's a very scenic trip, the landscapes are picturesque, and the village of Damme even more so. You can also go there by bike (special route). Local bus service to Damme is very limited and a trip from the Bruges railway station takes 24 minutes.
• Ypres (Ieper) is an important site of Great War battles, cemeteries, monuments and traditions such as the Last Post (every evening). Very popular among old veterans and young boys interested in wars. Sadly the public-transport connection between Ypres and Bruges isn't great, a train ride takes 1:30h, and a combination of train and bus still takes at least 1h. So trips to Ypres are only advisable when you have a car available.
• Ostend (Oostende) is the monumental beach resort, called queen of the coastal cities resort. King Leopold II (1865-1909) built before his attention turned to inner-city Brussels to build his new capital. The quintessential cosmopolitan 19th century beach resort, full of endearing villas that have been classified as official monuments. Less than 15 minutes by train. Close by, about 10min by tram towards Raversijde, you can find the Atlantic Wall, two kilometres of trenches and galleries dating from both World Wars.
• De Haan is a beach resort with many fanciful buildings in the belle époque style. Residential streets are lined by many quaint houses. De Haan is an easy side-trip from Bruges by train to Ostend and then by the coastal tram (Kusttram) to the station De Haan aan Zee.
• Ghent, Brussels and Antwerp are great tourist destinations in their own right, and very easy to reach by train (30 minutes to Ghent, 1h to Brussels and Antwerp).