Campbeltown

United_Kingdom

Campbeltown (Gaelic: Ceann Loch Chille Chiarain) is the town near the south tip of Kintyre, the long narrow peninsula of Argyll in the west of Scotland. It's only from Glasgow as the crow flies, but by road winding around the many lochs and mountain ranges.

Kintyre has inspired two famous songs: the one that isn't by Paul McCartney goes "Campbeltown Loch, I wish you were whisky, I would drink you dry...." Wishful thinking but not for want of industry by the town's distilleries - there used to be 30 in this small place. As with Islay, the isolation was a factor. Barrels of whisky were loaded onto ships for export, duty free; but on dark nights many of them mysteriously found their way back to the mainland cities. By the 21st century only two distilleries remained in Campbeltown, but a change in the law in 2009 encouraged new production.

Campbeltown reflections

The cave with MacKinnon's painting

  • The Heritage Centre is a small museum of local history at 3 Big Kiln St, and open May-Sept M-F 11:00-16:00.
  • Davaar Island. is a tidal island in the bay east of town, reached by the Dhorlin shingle causeway at low tide. There's a Stevenson lighthouse, and several caves: a painting of the crucifixion appeared in one in 1887, causing consternation among locals who took it as a sign from God. When they learned it was by Archibald MacKinnon, they ran him out of town. The painting is occasionally vandalised but has been restored. You can see it without a flashlight, though it's a bit gloomy and damp in there.
  • Mull of Kintyre. is the scenic headland at the tip of the peninsula, with cliffs, a lighthouse, and the coast of Northern Ireland only 12 miles (19 km) away - not much further than is Campbeltown. The mist-wraithed cliffs and ridges have claimed several ships and aircraft; a memorial near the car park commemorates the Chinook helicopter crash of 1994. St Columba (521-597) first landed in Scotland at Southend 5 miles east, before continuing north to Iona. The little island 3 miles south is Sanda, which is uninhabited.
  • Sadell Abbey. is the ruin of a Cistercian monastery active 1207-1507. It's on B842 eight miles north of Campbeltown. Free, always open. A short walk south gives you a view of Sadell Castle, a 16th-century bastion: this is nowadays self-catering property and you can't tour inside.
  • Carradale. is a small village halfway along the east coast. It has accommodation and is an alternative base for touring Kintyre.

The Heritage Centre is a small museum of local history at 3 Big Kiln St, and open May-Sept M-F 11:00-16:00.

Davaar Island. is a tidal island in the bay east of town, reached by the Dhorlin shingle causeway at low tide. There's a Stevenson lighthouse, and several caves: a painting of the crucifixion appeared in one in 1887, causing consternation among locals who took it as a sign from God. When they learned it was by Archibald MacKinnon, they ran him out of town. The painting is occasionally vandalised but has been restored. You can see it without a flashlight, though it's a bit gloomy and damp in there.

Mull of Kintyre. is the scenic headland at the tip of the peninsula, with cliffs, a lighthouse, and the coast of Northern Ireland only 12 miles (19 km) away - not much further than is Campbeltown. The mist-wraithed cliffs and ridges have claimed several ships and aircraft; a memorial near the car park commemorates the Chinook helicopter crash of 1994. St Columba (521-597) first landed in Scotland at Southend 5 miles east, before continuing north to Iona. The little island 3 miles south is Sanda, which is uninhabited.

Sadell Abbey. is the ruin of a Cistercian monastery active 1207-1507. It's on B842 eight miles north of Campbeltown. Free, always open. A short walk south gives you a view of Sadell Castle, a 16th-century bastion: this is nowadays self-catering property and you can't tour inside.

Carradale. is a small village halfway along the east coast. It has accommodation and is an alternative base for touring Kintyre.

  • Go to the movies at Campbeltown Picture House, 26 Hall St (100 yards north of ferry pier, +44 1586 552101. Scotland's oldest active cinema, built 1913 in Art Nouveau style. Screen 1 the original has 193 seats, Screen 2 is modern with 52 seats. Adult £8.
  • Visit a distillery. This town used to have 30 distilleries. It now has three producing single malt Scotch whisky, and further north there's a gin distillery. All can be toured.
    • Springbank, 85 Longrow PA28 6EX, +44 1586 551710. Founded in 1828, it produces Springbank (double-distilled, medium peaty), Longrow (double-distilled, very peaty) and Hazelburn (triple-distilled, non peaty) Scotch whiskies. Tours are available four times M-Sat Apr-Oct, fewer Nov-Mar. Tour £10.
    • Glengyle distillery next door re-opened in 2004, producing Kilkerran single malt. It's also run by Springbank, see above for tours.
    • Glen Scotia distillery on Dalaruan St, founded 1832, is open M-Sa, contact them for tours.
    • Beinn An Tuirc is a gin distillery opened in 2016. It's next to Torrisdale Castle, 10 miles (16 km) north of Campbeltown, see "Sleep". The shop is open M-Sa 11:00-16:00, Su 12:00-15:00, contact them for tours.
  • MOKfest is the Mull of Kintyre music festival, held in Campbeltown in late August, with a mixture of traditional, classical and modern styles. The next is probably 19-23 Aug 2020 but to be confirmed.

Go to the movies at Campbeltown Picture House, 26 Hall St (100 yards north of ferry pier, +44 1586 552101. Scotland's oldest active cinema, built 1913 in Art Nouveau style. Screen 1 the original has 193 seats, Screen 2 is modern with 52 seats. Adult £8.

Visit a distillery. This town used to have 30 distilleries. It now has three producing single malt Scotch whisky, and further north there's a gin distillery. All can be toured.

  • Springbank, 85 Longrow PA28 6EX, +44 1586 551710. Founded in 1828, it produces Springbank (double-distilled, medium peaty), Longrow (double-distilled, very peaty) and Hazelburn (triple-distilled, non peaty) Scotch whiskies. Tours are available four times M-Sat Apr-Oct, fewer Nov-Mar. Tour £10.
  • Glengyle distillery next door re-opened in 2004, producing Kilkerran single malt. It's also run by Springbank, see above for tours.
  • Glen Scotia distillery on Dalaruan St, founded 1832, is open M-Sa, contact them for tours.
  • Beinn An Tuirc is a gin distillery opened in 2016. It's next to Torrisdale Castle, 10 miles (16 km) north of Campbeltown, see "Sleep". The shop is open M-Sa 11:00-16:00, Su 12:00-15:00, contact them for tours.

MOKfest is the Mull of Kintyre music festival, held in Campbeltown in late August, with a mixture of traditional, classical and modern styles. The next is probably 19-23 Aug 2020 but to be confirmed.

Tesco Metro is just north of the bus station. It's open M-Sa 07:00-22:00 and Su 10:00-18:00.

  • Taj Mahal Tandoori, 16 Hall St PA28 6BU, +44 1586 554326. F-Tu 11:00-22:00. Decent Indian eatery facing the harbour.
  • Golden Ocean is a Chinese on Longrow, open M-Sa 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-23:00, Su 17:00-23:00.

Taj Mahal Tandoori, 16 Hall St PA28 6BU, +44 1586 554326. F-Tu 11:00-22:00. Decent Indian eatery facing the harbour.

Golden Ocean is a Chinese on Longrow, open M-Sa 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-23:00, Su 17:00-23:00.

  • Drink the local whisky from Springbank, Glengyle or Glen Scotia. You can try singing "Campbeltown Loch, I wish you were whisky...", but the barman's sick of hearing it.
  • Black Sheep Pub is within Royal Hotel, see "Sleep"; Fiddlers Inn is on Lochend St, open daily.

  • Claonaig, near Skipness castle, has summer ferries to Arran, an alternative route back to lowland Scotland.
  • Tayinloan is the ferry pier for Gigha; you'll have to return the same way.
  • Tarbert (Loch Fyne) has ferries to Islay and to Cowal, and is the road north.