Choquequirao is a large Inca ruin in Sacred Valley of the Incas in Peru. Much less visited than its more famous cousin Machu Picchu, it is only accessible by a strenuous two-day trek.
It's a two-day hike to Choquequirao from Cachora or Huanipaca. Guides and mules for the trip may be found in Cachora. Cachora is the most popular starting point for travellers who want to see the amazing newly-rediscovered Incan site, Choquequirao. Most people go in and out from Cachora as this is the best maintained and serviced trail. There are several places to buy water, Inca Kola and simple dishes of soup, eggs or potatoes along the journey. Another option is to continue onto Santa Teresa (La Convención) or Machu Picchu, but you'll need plenty of food. Hiring a donkey or mule is advised.
There are generally only a few tourists each day entering Choquequirao, the park workers are quite helpful in giving directions. The park is quite difficult to navigate with some paths somewhat overgrown. Much of the site is rebuilt: many original large stones have crumbled into smaller pieces, and in places it is easy to identify which sections are original work and which are reconstructed. In the main plaza, concrete beams have been used on one of the buildings. In other places, crumbling ruins are marked with numbers, so if they should fall, they will be able to be reconstructed.
Steep, rugged mountains.
Coral Snakes, Tarantulas.
Due to the altitude, it's hot in the sun and cold at night, sometimes below 0°C. The air is dry on north side of the mountains, humid on the south sides and in cloud forest.
There is a S/60 fee (2019) that employees of Culture Ministry will collect from those that arrive through Cachora at the checkpoint at the Capuliyoc Mirador or at the Choquequirao campsite, for those that get in through Huanipaca.
The locals are helpful but only speak Spanish and/or Quechua. The site is an active digging site, there are archaeologists working there, some of whom are American.
- Sector I - Plaza Superior Hanan. A collection of buildings - including warehouses and priests' residences - fountains and water channels on a hill above the main Plaza.
- Sector II - Depósitos Qolqampata Talleres. Warehouses and workshops organized as five areas on two levels. There are three entries on the first level and four on the second.
- Sector III - Plaza Principal Hauccaypata. The central area of the ruins with an open area and several large buildings used for ceremonial purposes.
- Sector IV - Plaza Inferior Templo de Urin. A two level, covered structure with access to the rear field and Plataforma Ceremonial Ushno.
- Sector V - Plataforma Ceremonial Ushno. A semicircular field on a hill, south of the main plaza, that offers panoramic views of the area. Historically, it may have been used for astronomical observations and religious ceremonies.
- Sector VI - Templo Illapa Vivienda de Sacerdotes. A temple used by priests with ceremonial terraces.
- Sector VII - Terrazas Ceremoniales de Cultivo. Three wide terraces below the main square. A 300 m stone path runs their length.
- Sector VIII - Terrazas de cultivo Las Llamas. A series of terraces connected by steep stairs and irrigation channels. The retaining walls are decorated with white stone llamas and other geometric shapes. The path down to the terraces descends close to 100 m, is steep in some sections, and can be slippery if the ground is wet. Near the bottom there is a trail to a viewpoint that looks back on the terraces.
- Sector IX - Talleres vivienda Pikiwasi. A collection of rectangular and single-level circular buildings connected to each other by narrow passageways and stairways. These were thought to be living areas for families or workers.
- Sector X - Terrazas de cultivo Paraqtepata. Terraces along an edge of a cliff connected by irrigation channels.
- Sector XI - Terrazas de cultivo Paqchayoq. The largest sector in the entire complex, composed of over 80 terraces used for cultivation.
- Sector XII - Pinchaunuyoq. A distant group of terraces, approximately 4 km (3 hr) north of the main plaza. Artifacts, such as stone tools, ceramics, and bones have been found on the upper terraces.
Sector I - Plaza Superior Hanan. A collection of buildings - including warehouses and priests' residences - fountains and water channels on a hill above the main Plaza.
Sector II - Depósitos Qolqampata Talleres. Warehouses and workshops organized as five areas on two levels. There are three entries on the first level and four on the second.
Sector III - Plaza Principal Hauccaypata. The central area of the ruins with an open area and several large buildings used for ceremonial purposes.
Sector IV - Plaza Inferior Templo de Urin. A two level, covered structure with access to the rear field and Plataforma Ceremonial Ushno.
Sector V - Plataforma Ceremonial Ushno. A semicircular field on a hill, south of the main plaza, that offers panoramic views of the area. Historically, it may have been used for astronomical observations and religious ceremonies.
Sector VI - Templo Illapa Vivienda de Sacerdotes. A temple used by priests with ceremonial terraces.
Sector VII - Terrazas Ceremoniales de Cultivo. Three wide terraces below the main square. A 300 m stone path runs their length.
Sector VIII - Terrazas de cultivo Las Llamas. A series of terraces connected by steep stairs and irrigation channels. The retaining walls are decorated with white stone llamas and other geometric shapes. The path down to the terraces descends close to 100 m, is steep in some sections, and can be slippery if the ground is wet. Near the bottom there is a trail to a viewpoint that looks back on the terraces.
Sector IX - Talleres vivienda Pikiwasi. A collection of rectangular and single-level circular buildings connected to each other by narrow passageways and stairways. These were thought to be living areas for families or workers.
Sector X - Terrazas de cultivo Paraqtepata. Terraces along an edge of a cliff connected by irrigation channels.
Sector XI - Terrazas de cultivo Paqchayoq. The largest sector in the entire complex, composed of over 80 terraces used for cultivation.
Sector XII - Pinchaunuyoq. A distant group of terraces, approximately 4 km (3 hr) north of the main plaza. Artifacts, such as stone tools, ceramics, and bones have been found on the upper terraces.
Trek
There are several tiny (one-family) settlements at campsites along the way selling cooked food, snacks, beer, bottled water and softdrinks, unless you plan on carrying a lot of water just drink from the taps - it usually comes from small mountain rivers, so treatment makes sense but you may choose to take the risk.
There are (very simple but filling) cooked meals available at Chiquisca, Santa Rosa and Marampata. A plate of food or bowl of soup will cost you about S/3. These locations also sell soft drinks, snacks, and the ubiquitous Chicha.
A local entrepreneur has wisely opened a shop with Gatorade and snacks about 10 minutes before you find another shop. Apologize to the nice lady for having already bought your snacks at the first store. Just past a gate is the top and you are rewarded with the first views of the Incan site and a nice bench to eat lunch at. Hike another hour or so and stake out your campsite. Explore the lower site that day and then see the rest of the sites on the following day. Unless you are in great shape, the relaxing day of exploring the site is necessary and must be done to truly enjoy the site. In every campsite along the way locals have set up shop, so you can buy water, soda, rice, snacks, eggs and fruit.
Fresh water from the mountain streams. You may want to filter or purify.
This is an isolated area but the trail is well maintained and easy to follow and people travel along it most days.
In August 2011, remnants of the Shining Path armed with rifles, machine guns and rocket launchers robbed a group of German and American tourists and ordered them to hand over their food, cameras and other equipment. Nobody was hurt.
There are three trails out from Choquequirao. They go to Cachora, Huanipaca and Yanama. From Yanama its possible to continue hiking onwards to Machu Picchu, Santa Teresa (Peru) or Mollepata.
Instead of walking the same way back, an easier way out is to go to Huanipaca: Within 5-6 hours if you are traveling light enough (2 hours down to the river, 3 hr uphill) you can reach the hotel "Villa Los Loros" (rooms S/100), which is 17 km along the road from Huanipaca, has a good Italian restaurant and free camping spots. From there you can order a taxi (S/40) to Huanipaca and from there take acshared taxi or bus back to Cusco. Another option is to take the steeper, shorter path to Kiuñalla, where you can get a bed, hot shower (but no towel), tea and soup for S/10. At 04:00 a colectivo leaves Kiuñalla for Huanipaca and on to Abancay. With a heavier bag and some soreness from the Cachora hike, it can take around 12 hours to get to Kiuñalla, or from first light to last light. At that pace, Hacienda San Ignacio can be reached at about midday, and for S/10 you can get your standard cooked trail meal with tea. Also note that the trail signs on the Huanipaca side tend to cater to those entering Choquequirao, not leaving, so keep an eye out for the backside of signs if you hiked in from Cachora.