Civita di Bagnoregio (pronounced Banyoregio) is a small Italian hill town in the province of Viterbo, region of Lazio, in central Italy.
Civita di Bagnoregio is actually two remote towns. Civita is on a hill accessible only by a long stone walkway that begins at the end of the road from neighboring Bagnoregio. Once, Civita was the larger community and Bagnoregio the satellite. Today, Civita has only about 14 year-round residents, so few that Civita is nicknamed "the Dead City." Many of the buildings in Civita are being purchased by rich Italians who come here for vacation. However the town suffers constant erosion of its volcanic rock into the valley below.
Civita is a charming medieval city, almost utterly untouched by the Renaissance. (The façade of the church was remodeled during the Renaissance, but the city is otherwise entirely medieval.) Despite its nickname, during the tourist season, Civita bustles with day trippers.
The long bridge into Civita is steep—and it gets steeper as it rises. This is a challenging climb for anyone not in particularly good shape.
- Romanesque Arch. At the entrance to Civita, this arch was cut by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago.
- Renaissance Palace remains. All that remains of an old palace is the façade, the rest collapsed into the canyon from erosion of the hill Civita sits on.
- Piazza. The town's only public phone is at the piazza, the site of donkey races on the first Sunday in June and the second Sunday of September. The columns are Etruscan. In the evening, the piazza is the place to be, as what's left of the town socializes there.
- Church, Piazza S. Donato, 31. This church is on the site of an Etruscan temple, and after that a Roman temple. It has a fine campanile (bell tower), altar, and crucifix.
- Maria's Garden. Follow the main road to the far side of town to see a lovely garden with knockout canyon views. If the garden is open, Maria will greet you in a small piazza and urge you to see it. She shows the garden to visitors for pocket change; give her a euro or two.
- Etruscan Caves. A series of caves at the east end of town, one of which was made into a chapel, called the Chapel of the Incarcerated.
Romanesque Arch. At the entrance to Civita, this arch was cut by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago.
Renaissance Palace remains. All that remains of an old palace is the façade, the rest collapsed into the canyon from erosion of the hill Civita sits on.
Piazza. The town's only public phone is at the piazza, the site of donkey races on the first Sunday in June and the second Sunday of September. The columns are Etruscan. In the evening, the piazza is the place to be, as what's left of the town socializes there.
Church, Piazza S. Donato, 31. This church is on the site of an Etruscan temple, and after that a Roman temple. It has a fine campanile (bell tower), altar, and crucifix.
Maria's Garden. Follow the main road to the far side of town to see a lovely garden with knockout canyon views. If the garden is open, Maria will greet you in a small piazza and urge you to see it. She shows the garden to visitors for pocket change; give her a euro or two.
Etruscan Caves. A series of caves at the east end of town, one of which was made into a chapel, called the Chapel of the Incarcerated.
- In Bagnoregio, market day is on Monday in the gas station parking lot.
- lLa Tonna, Piazza San Donato. Small souvenirs and local products shop can give you a lot of ideas for your small presents.
lLa Tonna, Piazza San Donato. Small souvenirs and local products shop can give you a lot of ideas for your small presents.
Bagnoregio
- Despar Supermarket. M-Sa 8:30AM-1PM and 4-8PM.
- Il Fumatore di Pizzo Ornelio, +39 0761-792-642. Open Friday through Wednesday 12:30-3PM and 7-10PM, closed Thursday, on Piazza Marconi.
Civita
- Trattorio Antico Forno, +39 0761-760-016. Serves cheap pasta. Open daily 12:30 to 3:30PM and sporadically for dinner 7:30 to 10PM Also rents rooms; see Civita B&B under Sleep.
- Osteria Boccadoro, +39 0761-780-775. 12:30-5PM and 7-11PM. Covered patio off main square.
- Pina's Pizzeria. 12-10PM. Pizza and sweets to eat there or to go.
- Hostaria del Ponte, +39 0761-793-565. Tu-Su 12:30-2:30PM and 7:30-9:30PM; November through April closed Sunday. Great view from rooftop terrace at bottom of stone walkway into town. €6.50 pastas, reservations smart.
Despar Supermarket. M-Sa 8:30AM-1PM and 4-8PM.
Il Fumatore di Pizzo Ornelio, +39 0761-792-642. Open Friday through Wednesday 12:30-3PM and 7-10PM, closed Thursday, on Piazza Marconi.
Trattorio Antico Forno, +39 0761-760-016. Serves cheap pasta. Open daily 12:30 to 3:30PM and sporadically for dinner 7:30 to 10PM Also rents rooms; see Civita B&B under Sleep.
Osteria Boccadoro, +39 0761-780-775. 12:30-5PM and 7-11PM. Covered patio off main square.
Pina's Pizzeria. 12-10PM. Pizza and sweets to eat there or to go.
Hostaria del Ponte, +39 0761-793-565. Tu-Su 12:30-2:30PM and 7:30-9:30PM; November through April closed Sunday. Great view from rooftop terrace at bottom of stone walkway into town. €6.50 pastas, reservations smart.
There are many other hill towns in the area, including Orvieto, Pienza, Montalcino, and Montepulciano. From Orvieto, both Florence and Rome are short train rides away.
The bus service between Bagnoregio to Orvieto costs €3.20 for the one-hour roundtrip. From Bagnoregio, there are six departures daily except Sunday at 5:30, 9:55, and 10:10AM and at 1, 2:25, and 5:25PM During the school year from September to June there are also departures at 6:35 and 6:50AM and at 1:35 and 4:40PM