Dar es Salaam

Tanzania

Dar es Salaam (Haven of Peace in Arabic) was founded in 1862 by Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar on the site of the village of Mzizima. Mzizima's history dates back to when the Barawa people started to settle and cultivate the area around Mbwa Maji, Magogoni, Mjimwema, Gezaulole, and Kibonde Maji Mbagara.

Dar es Salaam's origins have been influenced by a myriad of Sultans, the Germans, and the British. The city started as a fishing village in the mid-19th century, is now Tanzania's largest city, and has become one of East Africa’s most important ports and trading centres.

With its great atmosphere, mix of African, Muslim, and South Asian influences, picturesque harbour, beaches, chaotic markets, and historical buildings, it is well worth extending your stay beyond the time between flights.

Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's financial and political hub despite having lost its status as the capital to Dodoma in 1973.

The Bank of Tanzania at dawn Dar es Salaam is certainly not at the top of the list of places to see for most visitors to Tanzania. It's often a necessary stop on their way to Zanzibar, the northern safari circuit or home, but Dar has its charm. Walks around the city centre are a great way to get a feel for the culture and Kariakoo market can be an interesting place for the more adventurous. It can also be a good base for visiting some of the nearby sites such as Bagamoyo, Bongoyo and Mbudja Islands, as well as learn to scuba dive or go deep sea fishing. For those looking for something more humanitarian, most international organizations are based in Dar and may be a good starting point if you wish to volunteer.

Most visitors to Dar arrive via Julius K. Nyerere International Airport, about 10 km west of the city centre. Dar is flat and is bordered on the east by the Indian Ocean.

Dar es Salaam has a very humid climate and relatively stable temperatures, both in terms of night-to-day, and summer-to-winter. The driest and coolest season is June through early October. Short rains occur November through February (especially December), and long rains occur March through May, with monsoon season peaking in April. Temperatures are high November through May, highest in January.

Between December and February, in the dry season, temperatures can rise to the mid-30s (°C); due to the high humidity, discomfort can be very high. You should seek shelter from the sun during the midday heat and use copious amounts of sunblock.

Best times to visit are: June-Sept, after the rainy season, with milder temperatures and lower relative humidity.

The Nutcracker Man, a 1.75-million-year-old skull at the National Museum

  • National Museum, 5 Shaaban Robert St. The national museum mainly shows photos and exhibitions on the development of human nature. A must go to see the skull of the Nutcracker Man (1.75 million years old) and the cast of the even older (3.6 million years) laetoli footprints.
  • Makumbusho Village Museum. All of the houses within the village were constructed in accordance with the types of houses built by various ethnic groups throughout Tanzania. Ngoma dance shows are held from 2-6PM on certain days.
  • Askari Monument. A monument dedicated to the Askari soldiers who fought in World War I.
  • Zoological Gardens. US$20.
  • Karimjee Hall. Former parliamentary building. Still in use for seminars.
  • Azania Front Lutheran Church. In the center of the city and built by German missionaries is a well known landmark.

  • Bahari Beach hotel, is about 20 km to the north of Dar es Salaam along New Bagamoyo Road. The hotel charges a small fee for non-guests.
  • Kigamboni also known as "South Beach", is situated across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs TSh 100. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a TSh 5,000 entry fee. TSh 3,000 of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5 km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for TSh 10,000-15,000 depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.

Kigamboni also known as "South Beach", is situated across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs TSh 100. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a TSh 5,000 entry fee. TSh 3,000 of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5 km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for TSh 10,000-15,000 depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.

National Museum, 5 Shaaban Robert St. The national museum mainly shows photos and exhibitions on the development of human nature. A must go to see the skull of the Nutcracker Man (1.75 million years old) and the cast of the even older (3.6 million years) laetoli footprints.

Makumbusho Village Museum. All of the houses within the village were constructed in accordance with the types of houses built by various ethnic groups throughout Tanzania. Ngoma dance shows are held from 2-6PM on certain days.

Askari Monument. A monument dedicated to the Askari soldiers who fought in World War I.

Zoological Gardens. US$20.

Karimjee Hall. Former parliamentary building. Still in use for seminars.

Azania Front Lutheran Church. In the center of the city and built by German missionaries is a well known landmark.

For a great day trip, head out to Bongoyo Island. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Mashua Waterfront Bar & Grill at Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you TSh 8,000. The first boat leaves at 9:30AM, with others at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost Tsh 25,000 which includes a round trip plus the US$10 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 10:30AM, 12:30PM, 2:30PM and the last one leaves around 4:30PM. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks (grilled prawns, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer etc.). Another option is to buy food at the Shrijee's supermarket at Slipway. You can relax without having to worry about anyone stealing your things on Bongoyo. Take a hike around the island, snorkel in the clear waters to the southwest of the island (snorkeling gear may be rented on the island for TSh 6,000 per set per day) or just relax under a banda on the beach. Bandas are TSh 5,000 and a chair costs TSh 1,500 for the day. On the weekend, be sure to get on the first ferry if you want a banda, it gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. When you come back, you can get ice cream or a meal at several of the Slipway restaurants and watch the sun set. You can also check out the Tinga Tinga paintings and other crafts at the market. Walk to the south (toward the Doubletree Hotel) from the main part of Slipways, past the boatyard, to find many cheaper market stalls.

Kigamboni Beach

Mbudya Island is a smaller island just north of Bongoyo. To visit, take a taxi or bajaji to the White Sands Hotel, near Kunduchi. Two-way tickets can be purchased for TSh 10,000 per person, with a minimum of 4 people per boat, and there is an additional TSh 10,000 park fee when you get to the island. The popular side of the island has beaches, bandas, a small bar, and a food pavilion (though the menu is very limited). Beers go for about TSh 3,000. There is also a somewhat nicer, though more expensive, bar on the northern end of the beach. The rest of the island is mostly rough cliff face, which can make for some interesting hiking, though this is not advised if you don't have good shoes and dependable balance (the rocks are very sharp and scrambling is sometimes required). The last boats back to White Sands leave between 4:30 and 5PM, though you can stay a bit longer if you are willing to take a smaller, overcrowded boat back to the Sea Breeze hotel, which is south of White Sands.

For a great excursion in the city to see the "real Dar," you should do an "Investour." Investours runs microfinance poverty tours, and you get to meet and talk to local entrepreneurs, see the Mwenge woodcarvers market in a behind-the-scenes experience, and even have a local Tanzanian lunch with some of the craftsmen. Your fee is then used as an interest-free microfinance loan given to the entrepreneur of your choice—out of the ones you met during the day. Most people come to Dar without experiencing the true aspects of the city: abject poverty and the desire of most individuals from all over Tanzania to strike it big here. It is an important cultural part of Dar es Salaam, and an Investour should definitely be something you consider to do.

At Slipways, the Waterfront Bar and Grill is decent and is open long hours, but the best dining experience is on The Terrace, which generally opens around 7PM on weeknights and 6PM on weekends. The coffee shop next to The Terrace served pretty good food (and excellent coffee) as well.

There are quite a number of night clubs in Dar es Salaam. Probably the most popular in City Centre is Bilicanas, which is lively and sometimes not quite as full of prostitutes as the other clubs. It is popular with locals and ex-pats alike. Music is varied, depending on the night, from local to Congolese to dance to hip-hop. (The place goes nuts when they play the cheesy songs.) California Dreamers is another nearby club, but it is too full of prostitutes to recommend. There are numerous other smaller clubs that can be fun, but harder to get to. On the Peninsula, Sweeteazy has great live bands, sometimes with their own dancers every Thursday (and Saturday?) evenings. There is always a mixed Tanzanian/expat crowd dancing. Cover charge is TSh 10,000 but if you have supper there it's free!

Hiking is possible in the Pugu Hills, some 12 km west of the airport. Villagers can assist as guide for a hike around the Pugu Hills or to the major cattle market of Dar es Salaam. Arrangements are through the Pugu Hills Nature Centre. For directions to Pugu Hills see web site.

If you like to have a chillout evening, the Mediterraneo Lounge has a large collection of chill-out music. At the Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant Lounge you can enjoy the fantastic view of the Indian Ocean while sipping your favourite drink, and listening to the best lounge & chill-out music in Dar es Salaam. More in town and therefore somewhat less romantic but still beautiful, on the Peninsula, check out very attractive but expensive Coral Beach restaurant, right on the ocean, from where you can watch the sun set.

Massage Try High Care Massage at the Slipway for a very professionally organized place. There are signs for lots of other massage and spa centres around town. Two places favoured by ladies in landcruisers are Lemon on Haile Selassie Road (next to George & Dragon pub) or the Spot on Chole Road (opposite the taxi stand).

Movies There are modern cinema halls like New World Cinema on Bagomoyo Rd. which hosts the annual European and Asian film festivals and others listed below. You can buy DVDs on every corner but beware, many are defective Chinese counterfeits, poorly produced, and/or lack English translation.

  • Century Cinemax, Sam Nujoma Rd (inside Mlimani City Shopping Mall, +255-715-246-362. M-F 12PM-9PM, Sa-Su 10AM-9PM. .
  • Suncrest Cineplex, Julius K. Nyerere Rd. (inside Quality Centre Mall, +255-684-221-753. Daily 11:15AM-11:15PM. The largest cinema in Dar es Salaam, featuring full backrest reclining seating with footrests and snap-on trays for armrests .

Sports The Yacht Club on the Peninsula is a gorgeous place but requires membership fees. You can enter as someone's guest and swim (in safety) or boat. It, and other places around town, offer scuba-diving lessons. Gymkhana, on Gymkhana Road in town, has tennis courts and a nice golf course. Coco Beach is a public beach on the Peninsula which is very busy on weekends. Go any afternoon to see people relaxing, and eat local food. But don't walk on beach as muggings are too frequent. A few people surf here when waves swell a bit around the full moon. You can sometimes surf or kite surf at the beaches south of Dar, e.g. at Kasa Beach Hideaway (fantastic wide beach and surf-able waves in June). There's yoga three times a week (Mondays Golden Tulip Hotel, Thursday and Saturday at Dar Fitness Centre) and capoeira at 6PM at the Little Theatre (beginners on Mondays, intermediate Wednesdays), and tae kwon do also at the Little Theatre, Wednesdays at 6PM. Kickboxing is also available.

Culture Read weekly 'What's Happening in Dar' and 'Advertising Dar' to get all the news of what's going on, including weekend get-away specials. There are always events like dance and music performances, artist openings at painting and photography galleries, movie festivals etc. Alliance Francaise,Goethe Institute, Iranian and Russian cultural centres offer special events along with some occasionally sponsored by embassies.

  • Graham, London. Mikadi Beach Lodge is 1 km from the Kigamboni Ferry and an excellent place to stay or enjoy the beach. Entrance is TSh 3000 but an overnight is recommended

Century Cinemax, Sam Nujoma Rd (inside Mlimani City Shopping Mall, +255-715-246-362. M-F 12PM-9PM, Sa-Su 10AM-9PM. .

Suncrest Cineplex, Julius K. Nyerere Rd. (inside Quality Centre Mall, +255-684-221-753. Daily 11:15AM-11:15PM. The largest cinema in Dar es Salaam, featuring full backrest reclining seating with footrests and snap-on trays for armrests .

Graham, London. Mikadi Beach Lodge is 1 km from the Kigamboni Ferry and an excellent place to stay or enjoy the beach. Entrance is TSh 3000 but an overnight is recommended

A crowded downtown street market

All Stanbic Bank, FNB Bank, and Standard Charter Bank offer Mastercard/Visa ATM service. In addition, the Tanzanian banks CRDB and NBC Bank offer Visa service with their ATMs. These banks also offer Mastercard/Visa ATMs:

  • I&M Bank Mosque Street
  • EcoBank Sokoine Drive
  • Equity Bank Ohio Street
  • KCB Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road

I&M Bank Mosque Street

EcoBank Sokoine Drive

Equity Bank Ohio Street

KCB Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road

  • Mlimani City Shopping mall. The largest shopping mall in Dar es Salaam.
  • Game Hypermarket, Plot 2 SamNujoma Road Ubongo, +255 222197800. 10AM-7PM. Game is owned by Wal-mart USA.
  • City Mall, corner of Bibi Titi & Morgoro roads, +255-768-088066. 9AM-11PM. Has a large supermarket and a bank and lots of shops not far from downtown.
  • Aura Mall, Morogoro Road, +255-22-2774253. 7AM-11PM. Has a Choppies of Botswana hypermarket.
  • Choppies Supermarket and Hypermarkets, Makumbusho bus terminal and Auru Mall. 8AM-10PM.

Mlimani City Shopping mall. The largest shopping mall in Dar es Salaam.

Game Hypermarket, Plot 2 SamNujoma Road Ubongo, +255 222197800. 10AM-7PM. Game is owned by Wal-mart USA.

City Mall, corner of Bibi Titi & Morgoro roads, +255-768-088066. 9AM-11PM. Has a large supermarket and a bank and lots of shops not far from downtown.

Aura Mall, Morogoro Road, +255-22-2774253. 7AM-11PM. Has a Choppies of Botswana hypermarket.

Choppies Supermarket and Hypermarkets, Makumbusho bus terminal and Auru Mall. 8AM-10PM.

For kangas (or khangas), colourful, sarong-like pieces of cloth with Swahili sayings along the bottom, try Kariakoo market or the cloth market on the streets around it. Check around south end of Jamhuri St., where there are many textile shops. Here you can also buy kitenge, twice the length of kangas and usually cut in half to form a complete outfit, for around TSh 4000 each. Try asking in here if you want something like a dress made to measure. Kariakoo is also a good place for fresh food. Watch out for pickpockets.

The wholesale textile markets are on Uhuru St. in the Mnazi Mmoja district near Kariakoo, although the number of people and the attention can be overwhelming for some visitors. It helps to speak Swahili, and if you can, go during the week rather than on Saturdays. Its a much more enjoyable experience on a weekday, since there are less people around you can chat with the sellers and there is less high-pressure haggling. The Uhuru Street sellers are wholesalers, so unless you feel you're being quoted a very inflated price, it is difficult to bargain.

  • Afro Fashion, Samora Avenue, Opposite Extelecom Building (Celtel Point) (Samora Avenue, +255 22 2124066, +255 784243735. 9AM-5PM. T-shirts, batiks, khanga, Masai material, kikoy, tye & dye clothings, arts & crafts, Masai beads, and other popular souvenirs.

Afro Fashion, Samora Avenue, Opposite Extelecom Building (Celtel Point) (Samora Avenue, +255 22 2124066, +255 784243735. 9AM-5PM. T-shirts, batiks, khanga, Masai material, kikoy, tye & dye clothings, arts & crafts, Masai beads, and other popular souvenirs.

Carvings and other touristy souvenirs can be found all over Dar. Remember that haggling is expected.

There is a fantastic craft market in Mwenge, the Mwenge Carvers' Market. Here you can watch many of the artists make the crafts that are sold throughout the country (although some crafts sold in Tanzania are imported from Kenya). Prices range from expensive to extremely cheap. There are many stalls selling similar things, and if you are savvy, you might be able to pit the vendors against each other. The perk of the Mwenge market is the sheer volume of crafts to choose from. If you like the style of something at a specific store (they tend to carry items made by one or two artists), and you have some time, you can meet the artist and have them custom make something for you. The market closes at dusk. Shopping around this time gets you the best deals.

There is a smaller market at Slipway, which is a good place to get Tinga Tinga paintings and large batiks as well.

Local paintings are often executed in a style unique to Tanzania, "tinga-tinga", named after the artist who founded the style, Edward Said Tinga Tinga. Some good places to find them are at the Slipway market, and in the alley off of Haile Selassie Road on the Peninsula. The alley is to the left of Shrijee's Supermarket – look for the art sellers on Haile Selassie Road, and the alley is on the opposite side of the road. There are also tailors, sandal-makers, and charity/craft/wholefood shops on this alley (not to mention the booze shop). The Tinga Tinga artists' collective itself is at the end of the alley, through a doorway, so don't get too distracted by the smaller art shops outside.

Mlimani City is good when you are feeling exhausted by the street markets, and homesick for the Cleveland suburbs.

In November 2006, the brand new "Mlimani City" shopping complex opened. A "Shoprite" supermarket and a "Game" department store, both South African chains, are open for business seven days a week. Although it is a fair distance from the city center, it can be reached by taking a Dalla Dalla or taxi to the Mwenge bus terminal, and walking approximately 19 minutes further past the craft market (see below).

If you run out of things to read, there are some surprisingly well stocked branches of the English language bookshop called A Novel Idea. See the Books section a little further down for a list of stores.

There is a good selection of electronics and appliance vendors on Samora Avenue.

There are a number of book stores near the Askari monument at Samora Ave & the Posta Road, selling mostly academic texts and school books.

  • A Novel Idea, Slipway, Oysterbay Shopping Centre, Shoppers Plaza, Steers fast food complex on Ohio Road, +255 22 601088. A local chain that sells a wide selection of imported English language books: novels, childrens' books, reference, non-fiction. A pleasant place to spend a few hours.
  • "Mlimani City" has a bookstore as well.

A Novel Idea, Slipway, Oysterbay Shopping Centre, Shoppers Plaza, Steers fast food complex on Ohio Road, +255 22 601088. A local chain that sells a wide selection of imported English language books: novels, childrens' books, reference, non-fiction. A pleasant place to spend a few hours.

The close view of the Kariakoo market in Dar es Salaam. The bird's eye view of the Kariakoo market in Dar es Salaam. If you're looking for an authentic shopping experience, a visit to Kariakoo market, especially on Saturday morning, could be just the thing. Kariakoo is the cheapest market in Tanzania. If you want to buy cheap souvenirs, this is the place for you. If you're a Muzungu (i.e. white person) shop owners will try to charge you much more that is worth. But that will be cheaper than what you get in the city or everywhere else in Tanzania. General rules: African necklaces should not be bought for more than TSh 2000 (the correct price is TSh 1000 but you won't get that price easily), small drums should be bought for as much as TSh 4-5000 and soft stone products (hearts, plates, small animals, jewelry boxes, etc.) should not be purchased for more than TSh 10,000 shillings. In Kariakoo you can also find cool yet useful presents, like kerosene lamps or pans (as in pan and brush) made from used metal – look for ones with commercial logos printed all over - or a funnel made from a hair spray container. There are also nice baskets, stools, bowls etc. Warning: This is not for everyone. The market is very crowded and for some the smells and noises can be overwhelming. If you're keen but hesitating, it might be best to find a Tanzanian friend or person familiar with the market to help you navigate around. Do not bring any valuables and only bring a small amount of money that you wish to spend, as pickpockets work the area and in the commotion your watch, cell phone, MP3 player, sunglasses and wallet can be expertly removed, or your nice leather handbag slashed with a razor. Even seasoned Kariakoo shoppers occasionally fall prey to these sophisticated teams of thieves.

Haggling: Haggling is expected when purchasing almost anything in Dar. Although it is true that most merchants quote much higher prices to tourists than locals, sometimes three times the price, negotiations should still be undertaken with respect and good humour. Don't expect to pay the same as a local and don't be insulted when you aren't. The reality is that you probably have more money in your pocket than many Tanzanians see in a year. This also applies to backpackers. Remember the extra dollar or two you paid for that carving will most likely be used to buy food for the family. None of these merchants are rich. If you think it's too expensive leave and look elsewhere, but don’t call them thieves.

Mitumba is the Swahili word for second-hand stuff, the hand-me-downs of the developed world, and Ilala Market has some of the best and cheapest mitumba you can find in Tanzania. Sweaters, jeans, shoes, bags, etc. With an extra emphasis on that etc. Also you can find handcrafted jewelry (bracelets, anklets, earrings, and such) at good prices, making it a good place to buy simple gifts en masse. There's plenty of street food. Its stalls and kiosks are in tight, narrow quarters and it feels a bit claustrophobic, so it's not ideal for all travelers.

When it comes to expensive souvenirs, Tanzania has cornered the market with a gemstone that can only be found (mined) in Tanzania, hence the name Tanzanite. Shops selling this exquisite blue stone are found in all major cities and towns, especially those popular with tourists like Zanzibar, Arusha and Dar. Your biggest problem will be knowing that what you're getting is the real thing and worth the money you're shelling out for it.

The rule of thumb is the darker the gem the more expensive it is. Light colored Tanzanite is genuine just not as sought after as the darker stones. But like all things there is much more to a stone's value than just its colour so do your homework if you plan on spending a lot on one of them.

Grading is on an alphabetical scale with AAA being the best and B being the lightest and cheapest. Expect to pay as much as US$450 per carat for AAA. If, like most visitors, you're new to this gem, buying from a reputable shop, such as Lothys at the Kilimanjaro Hotel Kempinski or Tanzanite Dream might be more expensive but you're assured of what you're getting. Nonetheless, there are several other good shops around Dar where you can get nice pieces or simply buy the gems and have them set back home. Like all things, negotiating is key.

Some reputable shops to buy best Tanzanite are Gem Point, Royal Jewellers, Queens Jewellers at Indiragandhi street, in the center of town.

If you are a serious Tanzanite buyer looking for quality and selection then you should definitely check out the Tanzanite Dream just outside the city centre on the Mataka road behind the fire station.

Due in part to the growth of the expatriate community and the increasing importance of tourism, the number of international restaurants has risen very rapidly. The city now offers a rich and internationalized diversity of cuisine, ranging from traditional Tanzanian Barbecue style options such as Nyama Choma (Roasted meat – served with rice or ugali) and Mishkaki (Shish kebab – usually barbecued and served with salt, hot peppers, chapati, fries, and rice on the side), and the long-established traditional Indian and Zanzibari cuisine, to options from all corners of the globe including Chinese, Thai, Turkish, Italian, and Japanese food. Restaurants like City Garden, Addis in Dar, and Best Bite are only a few of the most popular restaurants in Dar es Salaam. Even fast food restaurants like Steers and Subway now have prominent places in the restaurant sector of Dar es Salaam. People who prefer neither fast food or traditional restaurants buy their food from street vendors, who usually sell good food for very affordable prices. Samosas are common street food items within the city. Primary and secondary school students are usually more likely to buy food from street vendors than other age demographics.

$ = Cheap (TSh 1,000–5,000 for a meal for one)
$$ = Average (TSh 5,000–10,000)
$$$ = Moderate (TSh 10,000–20,000)
$$$$ = Expensive (TSh 20,000+)

Traditional Tanzanian food can be had on almost any street. From grilled meats (mishikaki) to BBQ corn on the cob, and chips and eggs (chips mayai). If you're looking for something a little more sanitary, there are a number of small hotels and restaurants that serve a buffet style meal at lunch time which offers a variety of Tanzanian stews, deep fried fish and chicken, and vegetables. Some good choices:

  • Sammy'S Good Food, at Quality Center Mall, Pugu Road 1st Floor., +255 765726697. Serves Indian food, Chinese, pizzas, burgers and a lot more. So eat, relax and have fun on the way to airport.
  • Summy's, Jamhuri Street NE of Morogoro Road.. Grilled marinated chicken, mishkaki, Indian food. ($).
  • City Garden, on Garden Avenue, SE side, between Ohio Street and Pemba Road.. Fine outdoor ambiance, extensive menu, affordable prices, fast service, free bread, real butter, coconut sauces, death by chocolate. ($$).
  • New Africa Hotel, on the corner of Sokoine Drive and Maktaba/Azikiwe Street..
  • Chef's Pride, Chagga St.. A very popular local eatery with Tanzanian food, plus pizza and Indian. ($$).
  • Royal Chef, on Lumumba Street at Morogoro Road.. Run by the same people as Chef's Pride but with a Zanzibar ambiance. ($$).
  • Durban Hotel. Two streets past Royal Chef on the right. Excellent selection of Tanzanian, Chinese, and Indian dishes at reasonable prices. Excellent fish fresh daily. At night, however, single men may expect to be approached by prostitutes. ($).
  • Local "hotelis" or restaurants can be found on just about every major street. Most serve ugali, rice or chapati with beans, meat or fish stews, and mishitaki (grilled kebabs).

For something even more upscale, try the Sunday brunch at the Kilimanjaro Hotel. The restaurant on the ground floor offers a wide variety of Western dishes but also includes several local favourites taken up a notch. It's not cheap, about TSh 30,000 per person, but if you're interested in trying Tanzanian cuisine without risking gastrointestinal complications, it's your best bet. The buffet contains all you can eat smoked salmon of the highest quality, among other delicacies.

Sammy'S Good Food, at Quality Center Mall, Pugu Road 1st Floor., +255 765726697. Serves Indian food, Chinese, pizzas, burgers and a lot more. So eat, relax and have fun on the way to airport.

Summy's, Jamhuri Street NE of Morogoro Road.. Grilled marinated chicken, mishkaki, Indian food. ($).

City Garden, on Garden Avenue, SE side, between Ohio Street and Pemba Road.. Fine outdoor ambiance, extensive menu, affordable prices, fast service, free bread, real butter, coconut sauces, death by chocolate. ($$).

New Africa Hotel, on the corner of Sokoine Drive and Maktaba/Azikiwe Street..

Chef's Pride, Chagga St.. A very popular local eatery with Tanzanian food, plus pizza and Indian. ($$).

Royal Chef, on Lumumba Street at Morogoro Road.. Run by the same people as Chef's Pride but with a Zanzibar ambiance. ($$).

Durban Hotel. Two streets past Royal Chef on the right. Excellent selection of Tanzanian, Chinese, and Indian dishes at reasonable prices. Excellent fish fresh daily. At night, however, single men may expect to be approached by prostitutes. ($).

A street market in Buguruni

  • Bimbis @ The Badminton Institute (Maratha Club) ($) multi-cuisine budget restaurant, near Elia complex, Zanaki Street, Kisutu, The restaurant is in central Dar, most nights it's busy with both ex-pats and Indians.
  • Retreat Restaurant ($) at the Pramukh Swami Street (Kisutu) near the Hindu temples, it serves only vegetarian dishes.
  • Upanga Club ($) on Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road near Alliance Française (Upanga), is similar in style and cuisine to the Badminton Institute, and you also have to pay TSh 1,000 entrance as a non-member.
  • A Tea Shop ($) just off of Libya Street, has great kebabs other Indian snacks. Plus delicious chai. K Tea Shop is also good.
  • Alcove on Samora avenue is the place for you if you like Indian and Chinese food and especially if you're vegetarian.
  • Red Onion ($$) across Maktaba Street from the YMCA, in the Haidery Plaza building. Has a wide selection of Indian dishes and a nice rooftop dining area. Very cold beers.
  • Jambo inn Hotel on Libya street serving Indian, Chinese, English, BBQ, exotic seafood and fast food. A choice of 220 dishes in non-vegetarian and vegetarian and fresh juices available.

Bimbis @ The Badminton Institute (Maratha Club) ($) multi-cuisine budget restaurant, near Elia complex, Zanaki Street, Kisutu, The restaurant is in central Dar, most nights it's busy with both ex-pats and Indians.

Retreat Restaurant ($) at the Pramukh Swami Street (Kisutu) near the Hindu temples, it serves only vegetarian dishes.

Upanga Club ($) on Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road near Alliance Française (Upanga), is similar in style and cuisine to the Badminton Institute, and you also have to pay TSh 1,000 entrance as a non-member.

A Tea Shop ($) just off of Libya Street, has great kebabs other Indian snacks. Plus delicious chai. K Tea Shop is also good.

Alcove on Samora avenue is the place for you if you like Indian and Chinese food and especially if you're vegetarian.

Red Onion ($$) across Maktaba Street from the YMCA, in the Haidery Plaza building. Has a wide selection of Indian dishes and a nice rooftop dining area. Very cold beers.

Jambo inn Hotel on Libya street serving Indian, Chinese, English, BBQ, exotic seafood and fast food. A choice of 220 dishes in non-vegetarian and vegetarian and fresh juices available.

  • Aroma Coffee House on Chole Road first right after passing the double tree road on your left. Bagels available daily!
  • Anghiti ($$$) (near the US Embassy) on New Bagamoyo road just after the Kawawa intersection is excellent.
  • Copper Chimney, New Bagamoyo Rd, +255 22 270 1074. Also very good.
  • Istana, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, +255 22 761 1345, +255 786 264 858. Malaysian and pan-Asian, serves an excellent buffet; cuisines change per day of the week. Often booked by wedding parties, especially on weekends.
  • Khana Khazana, New Bagamoyo Rd, +255 22 2771313. Offers excellent choice of Indian food.

Aroma Coffee House on Chole Road first right after passing the double tree road on your left. Bagels available daily!

Anghiti ($$$) (near the US Embassy) on New Bagamoyo road just after the Kawawa intersection is excellent.

Copper Chimney, New Bagamoyo Rd, +255 22 270 1074. Also very good.

Istana, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, +255 22 761 1345, +255 786 264 858. Malaysian and pan-Asian, serves an excellent buffet; cuisines change per day of the week. Often booked by wedding parties, especially on weekends.

Khana Khazana, New Bagamoyo Rd, +255 22 2771313. Offers excellent choice of Indian food.

  • Hong Kong Tai Yong Sun Restaurant, +255 22 2136622. Serves delicious and authentic Cantonese Chinese dishes. Experts of fresh seafood dishes in town, nice comfortable settings with fast and friendly service.
  • The New Africa Hotel has a popular Thai restaurant on the roof. Some nights it serves all-you-can-eat buffet.
  • Oriental ($$$$) at The Kilimanjaro Hotel serves a variety of Japanese, Thai, Mongolian and Malaysian dishes. Still a good restaurant in town.

Hong Kong Tai Yong Sun Restaurant, +255 22 2136622. Serves delicious and authentic Cantonese Chinese dishes. Experts of fresh seafood dishes in town, nice comfortable settings with fast and friendly service.

The New Africa Hotel has a popular Thai restaurant on the roof. Some nights it serves all-you-can-eat buffet.

Oriental ($$$$) at The Kilimanjaro Hotel serves a variety of Japanese, Thai, Mongolian and Malaysian dishes. Still a good restaurant in town.

  • Osaka ($$$$) off of Toure, serves Korean and Japanese, including very good sushi, look for the sign on the left when heading towards Sea Cliff.
  • Goong ($$$) serves authentic Korean food. On the first dirt road on the left going in to Slipway.
  • Azuma ($$$) at the Slipway. Sushi.
  • SweetEazy ($$$) at the Oyster Bay Complex on Toure Drive. Roof top as well as inside dining area. Live music some nights. Good bar.
  • Garden ($$$) on Haile Selassie, on way to Seacliff past the new large Shoppers grocery store. Large, outdoors, shaded with good menu and music and dancing Friday and Saturday
  • Thai Restaurant ($$$) on Chole Road. Large, outdoors, shaded with extensive menu. There is also a new Thai restaurant on Kaunda Drive just off of Bagomoyo Road. All dishes TSh 6,000.

Osaka ($$$$) off of Toure, serves Korean and Japanese, including very good sushi, look for the sign on the left when heading towards Sea Cliff.

Goong ($$$) serves authentic Korean food. On the first dirt road on the left going in to Slipway.

Azuma ($$$) at the Slipway. Sushi.

SweetEazy ($$$) at the Oyster Bay Complex on Toure Drive. Roof top as well as inside dining area. Live music some nights. Good bar.

Garden ($$$) on Haile Selassie, on way to Seacliff past the new large Shoppers grocery store. Large, outdoors, shaded with good menu and music and dancing Friday and Saturday

Thai Restaurant ($$$) on Chole Road. Large, outdoors, shaded with extensive menu. There is also a new Thai restaurant on Kaunda Drive just off of Bagomoyo Road. All dishes TSh 6,000.

  • Oliveto ($$$$) at the Movenpick serves upscale Italian food with a bit of a twist.

Oliveto ($$$$) at the Movenpick serves upscale Italian food with a bit of a twist.

  • Saverio's ($$) has Italian-style pizza, pasta dishes and good calamari and gamberi (calamari and shrimps) fried dish.
  • Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant ($$$) You can find here a wide choice of Italian/Mediterranean dishes, homemade pasta and delicious seafood dishes, plus a view of the Indian Ocean. Around 30' by car from Dar es Salaam.
  • Zuane ($$$) Italian. Nice atmosphere, indoor (a/c) and outdoor(covered porch) seating in converted house with large garden. Good for family dinners or big groups. Excellent red snapper filet! Zuane, actually, is the best Italian restaurant in Dar es Salaam. They serve pizzas as good as you can have in Italy, thanks to Cristian's (the Chef) ability, wood oven, choice of first quality food, and last, but not least, the best fresh mozzarella in Dar made in Tanzania! Pasta, meat dishes, and cakes are also delicious.

Saverio's ($$) has Italian-style pizza, pasta dishes and good calamari and gamberi (calamari and shrimps) fried dish.

Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant ($$$) You can find here a wide choice of Italian/Mediterranean dishes, homemade pasta and delicious seafood dishes, plus a view of the Indian Ocean. Around 30' by car from Dar es Salaam.

Zuane ($$$) Italian. Nice atmosphere, indoor (a/c) and outdoor(covered porch) seating in converted house with large garden. Good for family dinners or big groups. Excellent red snapper filet!

  • Addis in Dar, Ursino Street, in the Regency Estates neighborhood, +255 713 266-299 or +255 756 888-488. A superb little-known and out of the way restaurant is. This Ethiopian restaurant offers excellent food costing about Tsh 13,000 per dish. They serve chicken, beef, lamb and vegetarian dishes (mostly stews, but some come without sauce) on a bed of injera, a moist and springy Ethiopian flatbread. The decor is fantastic and the atmosphere is excellent as well, with a rooftop dining area. Try the Ethiopian honey wine before your meal and the beautifully-presented coffee after. Often fills up so book ahead particularly if you are in a group. ($$$).
  • Rehovot Ethiopian Restaurant, Ali Bin Said, a side road off of Bagomoyo Road (Very close to Twiga Pub. You can see the sign for it on Bagomoyo Road, between Namanga/Kimweri and Haile Selassie, +255 713 764-908 or +255 784 235-126. This is a new restaurant. Owned by an Ethiopia/Tanzanian couple. Really good food and simple but pleasant Ethiopian decor, in a kind of garden yard. We finished up with real Ethiopian spiced tea. They also sell Ethiopian clothes and played fantastic Ethiopian music on a good sound system. Teruwork used to cook at Addis in Dar. ($$).

Addis in Dar, Ursino Street, in the Regency Estates neighborhood, +255 713 266-299 or +255 756 888-488. A superb little-known and out of the way restaurant is. This Ethiopian restaurant offers excellent food costing about Tsh 13,000 per dish. They serve chicken, beef, lamb and vegetarian dishes (mostly stews, but some come without sauce) on a bed of injera, a moist and springy Ethiopian flatbread. The decor is fantastic and the atmosphere is excellent as well, with a rooftop dining area. Try the Ethiopian honey wine before your meal and the beautifully-presented coffee after. Often fills up so book ahead particularly if you are in a group. ($$$).

Rehovot Ethiopian Restaurant, Ali Bin Said, a side road off of Bagomoyo Road (Very close to Twiga Pub. You can see the sign for it on Bagomoyo Road, between Namanga/Kimweri and Haile Selassie, +255 713 764-908 or +255 784 235-126. This is a new restaurant. Owned by an Ethiopia/Tanzanian couple. Really good food and simple but pleasant Ethiopian decor, in a kind of garden yard. We finished up with real Ethiopian spiced tea. They also sell Ethiopian clothes and played fantastic Ethiopian music on a good sound system. Teruwork used to cook at Addis in Dar. ($$).

St Joseph's Metropolitan Cathedral

  • Al-Basha. The best middle-eastern food in Dar. They have two locations. City center on the corner of Morogoro and India Street and at the Mayfair Plaza in Mikocheni near the US Embassy. ($$).
  • Nargila, +255 756547754. Don't go for dinner – go for appetizers (hummus is great), the extensive drinks menu, hookahs and the belly dancer. Oysterbay, near the Ugandan High Commission (you must tell taxi this or he will never find it). Owned by an Israeli woman, apparently the place to go for all the Jewish holidays. ($$).

Al-Basha. The best middle-eastern food in Dar. They have two locations. City center on the corner of Morogoro and India Street and at the Mayfair Plaza in Mikocheni near the US Embassy. ($$).

Nargila, +255 756547754. Don't go for dinner – go for appetizers (hummus is great), the extensive drinks menu, hookahs and the belly dancer. Oysterbay, near the Ugandan High Commission (you must tell taxi this or he will never find it). Owned by an Israeli woman, apparently the place to go for all the Jewish holidays. ($$).

SeaCliff Village and Slipway (peninsula), and Harbor View Suites Mall have multiple fast-food type restaurants in one place, and shopping. Limited menus of pizza, burgers, Indian, sandwiches, ice cream, etc.

For upscale meals, visit the Dar es Salaam Serena (formerly Mövenpick, and the Royal Palm Hotel), the Holiday Inn, Kilimanjaro Hyatt Regency Hotel in the city center.

All of these hotels offer excellent fixed-price breakfast buffets, which often include sparkling wine, and can be a good value if you are hungry or want to escape for a while.

  • Zens Bar & Restaurant, +255 22 278 0440 ext 126. open every day from 6:30AM to 11PM in Mikocheni “B” at Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street.
  • Spurs SeaCliff Village. ($$$) Good burgers, steaks, Mexican food, salad bar (nothing particularly amazing, but quite possibly the only salad bar in Dar), milk shakes, ice cream desserts. Lots of wealthier families bring their (often noisy) children here, as there is a play area.
  • Karembezi Cafe SeaCliff Village. ($$$) Good salads and soups as well as steaks, excellent fish platter which is for two people but can be shared by 3 if ordering other stuff as well. You have the Indian Ocean views and it can be very pleasant and sometimes windy. Service is good but can be slow over the weekend.
  • The Blues Bar & Restaurant, +255 22 212022 or +255 787 254 754. International cuisine and variety of cocktails $$$.

Zens Bar & Restaurant, +255 22 278 0440 ext 126. open every day from 6:30AM to 11PM in Mikocheni “B” at Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street.

Spurs SeaCliff Village. ($$$) Good burgers, steaks, Mexican food, salad bar (nothing particularly amazing, but quite possibly the only salad bar in Dar), milk shakes, ice cream desserts. Lots of wealthier families bring their (often noisy) children here, as there is a play area.

Karembezi Cafe SeaCliff Village. ($$$) Good salads and soups as well as steaks, excellent fish platter which is for two people but can be shared by 3 if ordering other stuff as well. You have the Indian Ocean views and it can be very pleasant and sometimes windy. Service is good but can be slow over the weekend.

The Blues Bar & Restaurant, +255 22 212022 or +255 787 254 754. International cuisine and variety of cocktails $$$.

  • Chef's Pride near the budget hotels in the Indian quarter. It caters mostly to tourists, but is very reasonably priced and has a good local menu.
  • Milap is a vegetarian Indian Restaurant with very cheap prices.
  • Subway near the YWCA is air-conditioned, and a nice treat if you're hankering for some food of a western nature. Try the BMT.
  • YWCA near the Cathedral, has a delicious and cheap canteen where you can order a traditional Tanzanian meal for under TSh 2,000.
  • YMCA the other side of the cathedral from the YWCA. Along the same lines as the YWCA but has a wider range, it does food in the evenings (the YWCA does not), and it serves alcohol in a pleasant garden (it's the only budget place in the city centre that does).
  • Steers Complex

But the best place to eat, both in terms of price and atmosphere, is on the street. Places to try include the corner of Morogoro road and Jamhuri street, or the large open space in front of the Dar Express bus company ticket office. Chipsi mayai (chips in an omelet) should be TSh 1000-1200.

Some great places to eat fresh, inexpensive, tasty local food outdoors, but under shade, where you will be served from vats are:

  • Chinese Restaurant on the corner of Samora and Mirambo (it also serves more expensive Chinese food in the basement)
  • Holiday Out on Garden, just past the Southern Sun hotel which used to be called the Holiday Inn. There are three separate places serving food here.
  • Steers Out on Samora, just east of Steers. All serve vegetarian (beans, rice, cooked bananas, greens, other) for around TSh 2000 or with meat (beef, chicken, lamb, fish) around Tsh 4000. The clientele is mainly young Tanzanians with office jobs, many of whom speak English. All three of these restaurants are a few minutes walk from Mirambo where there are many Embassies.

Chef's Pride near the budget hotels in the Indian quarter. It caters mostly to tourists, but is very reasonably priced and has a good local menu.

Milap is a vegetarian Indian Restaurant with very cheap prices.

Subway near the YWCA is air-conditioned, and a nice treat if you're hankering for some food of a western nature. Try the BMT.

YWCA near the Cathedral, has a delicious and cheap canteen where you can order a traditional Tanzanian meal for under TSh 2,000.

YMCA the other side of the cathedral from the YWCA. Along the same lines as the YWCA but has a wider range, it does food in the evenings (the YWCA does not), and it serves alcohol in a pleasant garden (it's the only budget place in the city centre that does).

Steers Complex

Chinese Restaurant on the corner of Samora and Mirambo (it also serves more expensive Chinese food in the basement)

Holiday Out on Garden, just past the Southern Sun hotel which used to be called the Holiday Inn. There are three separate places serving food here.

Steers Out on Samora, just east of Steers.

You should only drink bottled water. A 1.5 litre bottle will cost you TSh 1,000 in a store or on the street, depending on the brand (and TSh 2000 or more at restaurants), but you can also drink tap water if you've purified it with iodine tablets or boiled it (at least 3–5 minutes at a rolling boil). "Seepage" from the sewer pipes into the water pipes is quite common.

Kilimanjaro, Serengeti, and Safari (the latter being a stronger beer, 5.5% alcohol) are local beers and popular with Tanzanians and foreigners. These are typically TSh 2300-3000 apiece for 500ml bottles in local spots, but can cost TSh 4000 or more at some bars and restaurants.

Imported beer available in Dar include Tusker, Ndovu, Stella Artois, Castle Lager, and Heineken. The African imports (Tusker, Ndovu) are not that much more expensive than local beers, but the European beers can be three to four times the price of domestics.

Konyagi is a vile-tasting, but popular, local gin, and its variant Konyagi Ice is comparable to hard lemonade and other sweet drinks.

Krest, bottled locally by Coca Cola, offer Club Soda, Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon drinks. Stoney Tangawizi (ginger ale but stronger in taste) is one of the more popular soda drinks. Sodas come in glass bottles and you'll usually be asked to return the bottle or pay extra to take it, but they don't usually like that.

All of the large hotels have full bars with air conditioning. Many offer 2-for-1 happy hour specials in the late afternoon/early evening.

  • Florida Inn near the UN building by the ferry port, offers South African Castle (which Tanzanians insist on pronouncing "Kestel", which you will have to emulate, as they won't understand "Castle") on tap. Nice air conditioning, and a pool table and satellite TV upstairs.
  • New Protein Bar, down the street from Chef's Pride. Good food and cheap. Sidewalk seating. The only bar in the Indian section of Dar near the budget hotels. Beware of strangers who may approach you and strike up a conversation, eventually leading to an invitation to go to another venue. There have been incidents of tourists being drugged and robbed under this modus operandi.

Florida Inn near the UN building by the ferry port, offers South African Castle (which Tanzanians insist on pronouncing "Kestel", which you will have to emulate, as they won't understand "Castle") on tap. Nice air conditioning, and a pool table and satellite TV upstairs.

New Protein Bar, down the street from Chef's Pride. Good food and cheap. Sidewalk seating. The only bar in the Indian section of Dar near the budget hotels. Beware of strangers who may approach you and strike up a conversation, eventually leading to an invitation to go to another venue. There have been incidents of tourists being drugged and robbed under this modus operandi.

  • Zens Bar & Restaurant Zens Bar has a wide selection of drinks in a tranquil atmosphere. Find us in Mikocheni “B”at Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street. +255 2202780440 ext.126
  • Q Bar, +255 22 211 2667, +255 754 282 474. Haille Selassie Road, Oysterbay area. A large bar and restaurant which can get crowded and noisy when major football games are shown on giant screens or on Friday night when there is live music. Daily drink specials. Notorious as a prostitute hangout in the evenings. Large crowd of locals and foreigners (usually men).

Zens Bar & Restaurant Zens Bar has a wide selection of drinks in a tranquil atmosphere. Find us in Mikocheni “B”at Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street. +255 2202780440 ext.126

Q Bar, +255 22 211 2667, +255 754 282 474. Haille Selassie Road, Oysterbay area. A large bar and restaurant which can get crowded and noisy when major football games are shown on giant screens or on Friday night when there is live music. Daily drink specials. Notorious as a prostitute hangout in the evenings. Large crowd of locals and foreigners (usually men).

Tanzania is one of the least policed countries in the world. Rapes and murders often go unreported and little data exist to suggest how common these crimes are. Domestic violence and sexual harassment, which often go well beyond verbal cat-calling, are extremely common. Foreign female students have documented multiple accounts of sexual assault and/or rape. These cases often go unreported/under-reported by universities with study abroad programs in Tanzania, and of course by the Tanzanian authorities themselves. Walking alone at night outside the most exclusive areas (think Oyster Bay, the Slipway, Sea Cliff, etc.) is extremely inadvisable for foreigners. Slipway Road has been the site of muggings in late 2015. Men stand a high chance of being mugged, and women of being mugged and/or sexually assaulted. Dar is often very poorly lit. The city experiences a great many power outages. This makes lone women particularly vulnerable.

Most travellers who are in Dar on a short stay will, fortunately, not face these challenges. Similarly, most expatriates who live in Dar are sequestered well enough (with cars, security guards, in upscale neighborhoods, etc.) not to have to worry about this sort of thing.

By far the most common crimes, and the biggest risk for most travelers, will be muggings and petty thefts. Muggings occur very frequently, including sometimes on the street in broad daylight. Sometimes, but not always, the victim gets roughed up. Foreign students at the University of Dar es Salaam have been mugged at machete point. Never carry your wallet anywhere easily accessible (a back pocket, an outside flap of a backpack or purse, etc.)

Avoid:

  • walking on the beach (like Cocoa Beach) while carrying valuables, as many of these places are invisible from the road. Dar can be a friendly place, and you can certainly have a comfortable time there, but avoid carrying valuables as you may be unlucky. You can walk in the city in the evening but as it gets darker and you see fewer people on the street, exercise real caution. It might be better to take a taxi. If you are noticeably foreign, remember that many people will assume you are rich carrying large amounts of cash, and an easy target.
  • Parking on dark sectors in the beach (coco beach) as thieves and junkies crouch in the dark waiting for the unaware foreigner to park, turn-off the engine and leave the car (to have a nice view of the Dar night from the beach) only to come in groups of 4-5 to steal as much as they can (in the case of a male foreigner). In the case of a female foreigner this is an absolute "not to do".
  • Parking in a place without a guard runs you the serious risk of having lights or other car parts extracted. It is not uncommon for people to try to steal things through open windows, while you are waiting for lights to change, or to open unlocked doors and either get in or swipe something! Some people have had passersby attempt to snatch purses off their laps while they've been sitting in the back of a taxi at an intersection.

There is a major police station at Salendar Bridge on Ocean Road and other police posts in various other places. If you don't follow the driving rules (or sometimes even if you do) you will spend time and money, either discussing with them their price or more formally in the police station. Police here ask for lifts regularly to get places but you are not obliged to take them if you feel uncomfortable. There is a great deal of corruption in Tanzania. Skin colour, bribes, and connections to known elites in town still, unfortunately, hold a lot of sway.

Visitors have reported been pick-pocketed in crowds at the Posta daladala stand. If you're walking past this it's best to cross the road to avoid the crowd. If you're getting a daladala be aware of your possessions, be particularly aware of people stopping suddenly in front of you – this is sometimes done to block you in while someone behind you goes through your bags. Other well known pickpocket sites are the ferry to Kigamboni (not the Zanzibar ferry), the Mnazi Mmoja dala stand, the trinket stalls on Samora Av and Kariakoo market. There's no reason to avoid these area, just be aware of your possessions when you are there, particularly bags. Using razor blades to cut into bags to remove items is quite common – and really annoying.

If you are robbed, you have a few options. None of them are good. You can yell, "mwizi!" This means 'thief' in Swahili. If you do this in a crowded place, you will very likely incite a mob to form. The mob might corner the thief and detain him until the police arrive. They might also beat up the thief very badly, possibly to the point of death. Theft carries huge risks in a culture where people possess very few material goods. The social punishments for stealing can be brutal beatings or, in some cases, death. Weigh the worth of your US$40 cell phone or purse against the potential results of fomenting a stir. If you are in a crowded place (like the downtown Posta daladala stand, for example), you will, at the very least, create a gigantic scene, probably cause someone to be beaten, and have to spend a day dealing with the Dar es Salaam police department in sweltering, inefficient conditions. Much more practical just to exercise extreme care with how you carry your belongings, and to avoid carrying valuables (i.e. anything you can't afford to lose) altogether.

Be careful when taking taxis at night, particularly if you are alone, where possible use a driver you know or ask someone to call a taxi for you. If staying in Dar for an extended period of time, try to get the phone numbers of the first fair, seemingly trustworthy cabbies you encounter. Keep using them. If you are living in Dar without a car, this will greatly increase your safety. Taking buses at night and walking in poorly lit areas alone or in small groups (particularly of women, noticeable foreigners, or other people who might look like 'easy targets') is a great way to increase the risk of something bad happening (mugging, rape, etc.) Split taxis when possible. Some travelers have narrowly escaped potentially violent muggings and/or rape and others were not so fortunate.

Generally speaking, the more you stand out, the higher your risk factor will be. It is possible to have a wonderful time in Dar, if you make yourself aware of these risks and adapt accordingly. Guide books neglect a great deal of information when it comes to Tanzania.

  • Canada Canada, 38 Mirambo St at Garden Ave, +255 222163300. Fridays closed at noon.
  • Egypt Egypt, 24 Garden Avenue, +255 22 2111716. 9AM - 3PM.
  • Finland Finland, Mirambo St at Garden Ave, +255 22 2196 565. M-F 8AM-noon.
  • France France, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, +255 22 219 88 00.
  • Germany Germany, Umoja House, Garden Ave / Mirambo St, +255 22-2117409, +255 786-971692 (emergencies ).
  • Greece Greece, P.O. Box 766, +255 22 211 5895.
  • India India, 82, Kinondoni Rd, Kinondoni, +255 22-266-9043.
  • Italy Italy, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd, Upanga East, +255 22-21159356.
  • Norway Norway, +255 22 2163100 or +47 23 955600.
  • Pakistan Pakistan, Plot No. 338, H.No.MKC/1259, Maziede, Garden A venue, Milkcheni-B, P.O Box No. 61336, +255 22-2773658.
  • United Kingdom United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, Umoja House, Garden Avenue, +255 22 229 0000 or +47 23 955600.
  • United States United States of America, 686 Old Bagamoyo Rd, +255 22-266-8001.

Canada Canada, 38 Mirambo St at Garden Ave, +255 222163300. Fridays closed at noon.

Egypt Egypt, 24 Garden Avenue, +255 22 2111716. 9AM - 3PM.

Finland Finland, Mirambo St at Garden Ave, +255 22 2196 565. M-F 8AM-noon.

France France, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, +255 22 219 88 00.

Germany Germany, Umoja House, Garden Ave / Mirambo St, +255 22-2117409, +255 786-971692 (emergencies ).

Greece Greece, P.O. Box 766, +255 22 211 5895.

India India, 82, Kinondoni Rd, Kinondoni, +255 22-266-9043.

Italy Italy, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd, Upanga East, +255 22-21159356.

Norway Norway, +255 22 2163100 or +47 23 955600.

Pakistan Pakistan, Plot No. 338, H.No.MKC/1259, Maziede, Garden A venue, Milkcheni-B, P.O Box No. 61336, +255 22-2773658.

United Kingdom United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, Umoja House, Garden Avenue, +255 22 229 0000 or +47 23 955600.

United States United States of America, 686 Old Bagamoyo Rd, +255 22-266-8001.

There are quite a number of Internet cafes in Dar in different places, But this particular one is the most popular especially for visitors CybeBase Internet Cafe' on Shekilango Road in Sinza +255 787-000157 or +255 719-924389, cybebase@gmail.com

However, all cell phone companies offer at least 3G internet service, which is quickly making internet cafes go the way of typewriters and carbon paper.

BBC World Service broadcasts in Swahili and English on 103.3MHz.

  • Zanzibar: There is a ferry to Zanzibar which leaves five times a day (7AM, 9:30AM, 12:30PM, 3:30PM, 4PM; check for updates). The price is US$35 for non-residents and the ferry takes about 2 hours. Arrive earlier at the terminal for security checks and buy your ticket in advance esp. when travelling around weekends or holidays. Although it is improving, watch out for touts, scams, and pick-pockets in this area. For buying a ticket, you’ll need your passport. Buy your tickets only from the ticket window of the ferry operator you’ll be using, otherwise you’ll pay a commission.

Watch out for the ferry scam: There may be a very well developed scam going on at the ferry dock. The taxi drivers seem to be in on the scam and will purposely take you to the wrong booth where a crew of friendly liars will help with your bag and assure you that you are at the right place. They charge US$35 but the ferry is a very slow boat that takes goods and vehicles as well as people and takes over 7 hours to arrive!

  • A nice daladala day trip is from town to Bagamoyo, about a 90-minute trek north of the city. It's easiest to catch the yellow-striped bus from Mwenge (see #By_bus. From the stand in Bagamoyo you can take a bajaji (think 3-wheeled golf cart) to historical sites including 13th century ruins, a 19th-century German garrison, and a very colorful seafood market on the beach. Getting back to Dar es Salaam, you'll be pushing your luck if you delay much past 5PM.
  • Morogoro: About three hours from Dar es Salaam, one can visit the NGO APOPO in Morogoro (on the way to Mikumi National Parc). This organization started in 1998 to train giant rats to help remove land mines in Mozambique and has started investigating the potential use of this low-cost "technology" for the detection of TB pathogens.
  • Mafia Island: About 30-minute flight from Dar es Salaam domestic airport, Mafia Islands host antiquities dating back to the 11th century its reefs, andande known for excellent diving and snorkelling.

[[Zanzibar]]: There is a ferry to Zanzibar which leaves five times a day (7AM, 9:30AM, 12:30PM, 3:30PM, 4PM; check for updates). The price is US$35 for non-residents and the ferry takes about 2 hours. Arrive earlier at the terminal for security checks and buy your ticket in advance esp. when travelling around weekends or holidays. Although it is improving, watch out for touts, scams, and pick-pockets in this area. For buying a ticket, you’ll need your passport. Buy your tickets only from the ticket window of the ferry operator you’ll be using, otherwise you’ll pay a commission.

A nice daladala day trip is from town to [[Bagamoyo]], about a 90-minute trek north of the city. It's easiest to catch the yellow-striped bus from Mwenge (see [[#By_bus]]. From the stand in Bagamoyo you can take a bajaji (think 3-wheeled golf cart) to historical sites including 13th century ruins, a 19th-century German garrison, and a very colorful seafood market on the beach. Getting back to Dar es Salaam, you'll be pushing your luck if you delay much past 5PM.

[[Morogoro]]: About three hours from Dar es Salaam, one can visit the NGO APOPO in Morogoro (on the way to Mikumi National Parc). This organization started in 1998 to train giant rats to help remove land mines in Mozambique and has started investigating the potential use of this low-cost "technology" for the detection of TB pathogens.

[[Mafia Island]]: About 30-minute flight from Dar es Salaam domestic airport, Mafia Islands host antiquities dating back to the 11th century its reefs, andande known for excellent diving and snorkelling.