Essaouira

Morocco

City of Essaouira Essaouira (Arabic: الصويرة) is a coastal city in Morocco.

In addition to the new town, Essaouira offers a picturesque medina (old town) surrounded by seawalls and city walls, designed by a French architect in the 18th century, a harbor with fish market, and a long beach with numerous water sports opportunities. Once a hippie hangout, Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens spent some time here. Orson Welles filmed part of his Othello in town; west of the medina there's a square named in his honor.

Essaouira Bastion Essaouira is a perfect example of a late 18th century fortified town, with the original canons still in place and where Orson Wells shot his Othello, "The Moor of Venice".

The UNESCO World Heritage Listed medina: check out the fish market at the west end, watch the sunset from the seawall at the Place Moulay Hassan, visit the Scala (wall tower north east of the Place), walk through the markets towards Bab Doukkala at the east end, and check out the artisan's shops near the eastern wall.

  • Essaouira Ramparts.
  • Essaouira Citadel. 09:00-17:00. 60 dirham for foreigners.
  • Mogador island. It's a nature reserve, and thus can't be visited without an official authorization. In the 19th century, it was used as a quarantine station for pilgrims returning from Mecca.

Essaouira Ramparts.

Essaouira Citadel. 09:00-17:00. 60 dirham for foreigners.

Mogador island. It's a nature reserve, and thus can't be visited without an official authorization. In the 19th century, it was used as a quarantine station for pilgrims returning from Mecca.

  • The nearby town of Diabat. is at the south end of Essaouira's beach, and is allegedly where Jimi Hendrix once spent some time. Even if the stories aren't true, this long, windswept beach with its ruined fort is a fantastic walk. Diabat is an empty, concrete Berber village that is practically devoid of attractions except the Hendrix ruin and a Hendrix Café. It's best visited in the early morning via taxi and then return to Essouiara via a short and very romantic walk on the beach past the castle in the sand of Hendrix fame.
  • Dar Sultan Palace. Walk south along the beach, cross the shallow river Oued Igrounzer and in the hills to your left you will see the ruins of a once magnificent 18th century palace used by Sultans and Kings. A path leads there; you can still find some old floor mosaics and thankfully the ruins offer some shade.

The nearby town of Diabat. is at the south end of Essaouira's beach, and is allegedly where Jimi Hendrix once spent some time. Even if the stories aren't true, this long, windswept beach with its ruined fort is a fantastic walk. Diabat is an empty, concrete Berber village that is practically devoid of attractions except the Hendrix ruin and a Hendrix Café. It's best visited in the early morning via taxi and then return to Essouiara via a short and very romantic walk on the beach past the castle in the sand of Hendrix fame.

Dar Sultan Palace. Walk south along the beach, cross the shallow river Oued Igrounzer and in the hills to your left you will see the ruins of a once magnificent 18th century palace used by Sultans and Kings. A path leads there; you can still find some old floor mosaics and thankfully the ruins offer some shade.

  • The beach dominates the Essaouirans' leisure time. Although the strong wind and currents makes relaxed tanning and swimming a little difficult at times, it is perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing. With good winds for most days of the year, Essaouira is a watersports' paradise. The best spots are reported to be Essaouira Bay, Sidi Kaouki, Cape Sim and Mouley Bouzertoune. Equipment can be hired from various hire centres on the beach front. However, this is not the ideal place to learn watersports, particularly kitesurfing. There tends to be a bit of a catch 22 - either its calm and you can't go out because there's no wind or its windy and you can't go out because there is a huge shore break. In addition the water can smell of sewage.
  • Camel and horse rides, quad-bikes, near the sourthern end of the main beach. A crowd of salesment offering any type of rides can be found there throughout all day long.
  • Ecotourism, walking tours, 8 bis rue houmman el fatouaki Médina Essaouira, +212 6 18 13 24 80. half day. Guided eco-friendly tours of the amazing countryside around Essaouira. You can discover the Argan Woods, the Thuya Forests, and the Dunes, take mint tea in a Berber village, and learn the secrets of a unique ecosystem at your own pace. Price per person per day: half day is 200 dirham and full day is 400 dirham (including a traditional meal with Moroccan family). Transport from town to the departure point of each walk is included.
  • World Music Festival. In June.
  • YousurfEssaouira, Bd Mohammed V,, +212524785794. Kitesurf, surf and windsurf directly on the main beach. Recent equipment.
  • Azur Art & Spa, 15 rue Khalid ben Walid, +212 524 78 57 94. A mix of art and spa, as per the name. Patrons can enjoy viewing art while having spa treatments.

The beach dominates the Essaouirans' leisure time. Although the strong wind and currents makes relaxed tanning and swimming a little difficult at times, it is perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing. With good winds for most days of the year, Essaouira is a watersports' paradise. The best spots are reported to be Essaouira Bay, Sidi Kaouki, Cape Sim and Mouley Bouzertoune. Equipment can be hired from various hire centres on the beach front. However, this is not the ideal place to learn watersports, particularly kitesurfing. There tends to be a bit of a catch 22 - either its calm and you can't go out because there's no wind or its windy and you can't go out because there is a huge shore break. In addition the water can smell of sewage.

Camel and horse rides, quad-bikes, near the sourthern end of the main beach. A crowd of salesment offering any type of rides can be found there throughout all day long.

Ecotourism, walking tours, 8 bis rue houmman el fatouaki Médina Essaouira, +212 6 18 13 24 80. half day. Guided eco-friendly tours of the amazing countryside around Essaouira. You can discover the Argan Woods, the Thuya Forests, and the Dunes, take mint tea in a Berber village, and learn the secrets of a unique ecosystem at your own pace. Price per person per day: half day is 200 dirham and full day is 400 dirham (including a traditional meal with Moroccan family). Transport from town to the departure point of each walk is included.

World Music Festival. In June.

YousurfEssaouira, Bd Mohammed V,, +212524785794. Kitesurf, surf and windsurf directly on the main beach. Recent equipment.

Azur Art & Spa, 15 rue Khalid ben Walid, +212 524 78 57 94. A mix of art and spa, as per the name. Patrons can enjoy viewing art while having spa treatments.

Essaouira stores Essaouira's craftsmen are renowned for their woodwork and lacquerware. Intricately inlaid boxes, chessboards and curios can be found for good prices in the city's hundreds of shops; however, be aware that extensive deforestation is taking place in the area due to these woods not being replanted. Artwork of all kinds can be had here. Essaouira inlaid wood market

  • Baguette+. Great bakery. Anything without cream of chocolate is great. Go there in the morning to early afternoon. 2 dirham per piece.
  • Rhassoul/ghassoul merchant. Essaouira seems a good place to get this product. This merchant sells proper rhassoul/ghassoul, i.e. wash soil. They sell natural and perfumed ½ kg bags. 8 dirham natural, 10 dirham with perfume.

Baguette+. Great bakery. Anything without cream of chocolate is great. Go there in the morning to early afternoon. 2 dirham per piece.

Rhassoul/ghassoul merchant. Essaouira seems a good place to get this product. This merchant sells proper rhassoul/ghassoul, i.e. wash soil. They sell natural and perfumed ½ kg bags. 8 dirham natural, 10 dirham with perfume.

Although Essaouira is on the sea, seafood sold to tourists can be quite expensive. Fishermen sell their catch through the market hall and you can have it cooked at the small stands nearby. Prices are clearly marked by weight on the large pricing board at the end of the fish market stalls, but this seems to make little difference to the chances of being hustled. Sample price: 5 dirham for pack of fresh sardines (10 one of them) in fish market. Carefully evaluate how much you are being charged. A cheaper option is to buy Harira (a spicy soup) for 2-5 dirham or a sandwich (i.e. at Blue facade for 10-20 dirham, walking at the street from fish stands to the Medina).

One of the best options is to buy your seafood from the dock (haggling sometimes required) where they sell everything from eels to sharks, then take your fish to the central market side streets (follow the smoke!) where they will grill it for you for only 5 dirham a grill rack, they will also grill your vegetables or make Moroccan salad. Seeing locals carry frozen fish in their hands around the corner to these stalls is common.

There are many reasonable restaurants and cafés on the main streets and squares.

  • Fish Market, Essaouira local market. If you are a fish enthusiast, you should not miss the food in the market. Buy your fish (cheap, shrimps are 50 dirham/kilo, sardines 5-6 dirham) take it to the small kitchen/restaurant and let them cook it for you. They add salad, olives and bread for 25 dirham. Really fun, cheap and good food! buy the fish + 25 dirham for the baking.
  • Berber Cafe, Ibn toumert (At Bab Kasbah take Derb Lalouj towards the sea;then take the second left turn down Ibn toumert. The cafe has a big pink door. Small friendly cafe, seats about 8 for meals and decor is mainly old boxing posters (husband used to coach), but the small menu is good and the prices are great. Perhaps the cheapest place in the medina. 30 Dh chicken/veg tangine, 20 bean stew, 5 tea, 4 per sardine..
  • Taros, 2, rue de la Skala, +212 5244-76407. Combines a French-Moroccan restaurant, a gallery and a terrace bar with live local music and "5" (rue Youssef el fassi) for its elegant ex-pat vibe.
  • La Triskalla, Rue Touahen (in the Medina), +212 24-47 63 71. Restaurant (excellent vegetarian food and fish), creperie, galerie. Cosy environment in an old riad, friendly service. Free internet for customers (WiFi + PC available).
  • Patisserie Driss, 10 rue El Hajjali (close to the main square. A great place for cakes and snacks.
  • La Decouverte, 8 bis, rue Houmman el Fatouaki, +212 24 47 31 58. If you are tired of tagines, disappointed by Italian-Moroccan pasta, give La Decouverte a try. A French couple cook in a Moroccan style but with a French twist. Nice atmosphere, good prices. mains 50-80 dirham.
  • La Licorne, 26 rue Scala, +212 24 47 36 26. A great place in Essaouira for a romantic dinner, or between friends, to enjoy Moroccan dishes along with one of the country's finest wines. tagines 85-95 dirham, couscous 80-110 dirham, meat or fish 85-130 dirham.
  • La Cantina, 66 Rue Boutouil, +212 24 47 45 15. If you're fed up with tajines and couscous, this Mexican food restaurant can be your oasis. ~70 dirham.
  • Shyadma's Vegan Food, 20, Rue Laalouj - Place El Khayma. Lovely vegan/vegetarian spot in the middle of Place El Khayma, a less visited place with many restaurants. Shyadma's is tiny, but everything is made from seasonal vegetables and fruits from the nearby market. You will most likely have to wait 15-20 minutes for your food, but it's well worth the wait. If you call this Moroccan slow food, you will be very right. A refreshing delight for foodies, especially vegetarians and vegans!

Fish Market, Essaouira local market. If you are a fish enthusiast, you should not miss the food in the market. Buy your fish (cheap, shrimps are 50 dirham/kilo, sardines 5-6 dirham) take it to the small kitchen/restaurant and let them cook it for you. They add salad, olives and bread for 25 dirham. Really fun, cheap and good food! buy the fish + 25 dirham for the baking.

Berber Cafe, Ibn toumert (At Bab Kasbah take Derb Lalouj towards the sea;then take the second left turn down Ibn toumert. The cafe has a big pink door. Small friendly cafe, seats about 8 for meals and decor is mainly old boxing posters (husband used to coach), but the small menu is good and the prices are great. Perhaps the cheapest place in the medina. 30 Dh chicken/veg tangine, 20 bean stew, 5 tea, 4 per sardine..

Taros, 2, rue de la Skala, +212 5244-76407. Combines a French-Moroccan restaurant, a gallery and a terrace bar with live local music and "5" (rue Youssef el fassi) for its elegant ex-pat vibe.

La Triskalla, Rue Touahen (in the Medina), +212 24-47 63 71. Restaurant (excellent vegetarian food and fish), creperie, galerie. Cosy environment in an old riad, friendly service. Free internet for customers (WiFi + PC available).

Patisserie Driss, 10 rue El Hajjali (close to the main square. A great place for cakes and snacks.

La Decouverte, 8 bis, rue Houmman el Fatouaki, +212 24 47 31 58. If you are tired of tagines, disappointed by Italian-Moroccan pasta, give La Decouverte a try. A French couple cook in a Moroccan style but with a French twist. Nice atmosphere, good prices. mains 50-80 dirham.

La Licorne, 26 rue Scala, +212 24 47 36 26. A great place in Essaouira for a romantic dinner, or between friends, to enjoy Moroccan dishes along with one of the country's finest wines. tagines 85-95 dirham, couscous 80-110 dirham, meat or fish 85-130 dirham.

La Cantina, 66 Rue Boutouil, +212 24 47 45 15. If you're fed up with tajines and couscous, this Mexican food restaurant can be your oasis. ~70 dirham.

Shyadma's Vegan Food, 20, Rue Laalouj - Place El Khayma. Lovely vegan/vegetarian spot in the middle of Place El Khayma, a less visited place with many restaurants. Shyadma's is tiny, but everything is made from seasonal vegetables and fruits from the nearby market. You will most likely have to wait 15-20 minutes for your food, but it's well worth the wait. If you call this Moroccan slow food, you will be very right. A refreshing delight for foodies, especially vegetarians and vegans!

Some of the hotels have licensed bars, but it's hard to beat the terrace bar Taros for its view over the lively Place Moulay el Hassan and the harbour. Popular with locals and tourists, has decent music

An off-license, the only one in town, can be found outside of Bab Doukkala on the Boulevard al Massira, to the right. Just inside this gate is the "black market" for alcohol on religious holidays and at night. Just ask the boys selling loose cigarettes!

  • Il Mare, 43, Rue Yaman. Has a nice terrace with a view over the sea and the bastion where you can have a drink. Although it scores mainly bad reviews from the tourists.

Il Mare, 43, Rue Yaman. Has a nice terrace with a view over the sea and the bastion where you can have a drink. Although it scores mainly bad reviews from the tourists.

Avoid the dealers selling "hash brownies" near the square, they are usually fake

Hashish is widely smoked in Morocco, but do not be fooled into thinking it is legal even if you see Moroccans smoking during the day. Smoking or being high in public is seen as a vice, especially near holy places, in the morning, or if you are drawing attention to yourself; use your judgement.

  • Agadir — the modern resort city with its beaches.
  • Marrakesh — city of hustle and stepping off point for the Sahara.