Fez

Fez (فاس) (French: "Fès") is a city in Morocco famous for being home to the world's oldest university (Qarawiyyin University), dating to 859, and the world's oldest library, dating to 1359. It has an ancient World heritage listed walled city, which many compare to the walled city of Jerusalem.

Fez is the medieval capital of Morocco, and a great city of high Islamic civilization. Fez has the best-preserved old city in the Arab world, the sprawling, labyrinthine medina of Fes el-Bali, which is incidentally also the world's largest car-free urban zone. Transports of goods is provided by donkeys, carriages, and motorbikes.

The city has just over a million inhabitants.

The main street is the Talaa Kbira, which runs from Bab Boujeloud to the Kairouine mosque in the heart of the medina. The Talaa Sghira also begins at Bab Boujeloud and eventually merges back into the Talaa Kbira. Once you get into the narrow, windy heart of the medina, you can also find your way out again by constantly heading downhill, which will eventually lead to the Place R'cif, a dropoff for buses and taxis, where you can get a petit taxi out of the medina.

For more detailed tours and directions, look for the book Fez from Bab to Bab (Hammad Berrada). It has a complete map of the medina and several well-described walking tours. It can be found in most bookshops, both on the Talaa Sghira or at the large bookstore on the Avenue Hassan II in the ville nouvelle. However, be discreet taking out your map or you will have many offers from false guides.

• The Tanneries. In the midst of the maze-like medina are the colorful leather-dying pits. Any number of young boys will offer to guide you to them: just listen for "you want to see the tanneries?" The tour is free (though it is appropriate to offer 1-5 dirham to your "guide").
  There is no chance of getting to see the tanneries by yourself, instead, be prepared for physical abuse for even trying! However, just 10 m left of the entrance is a leather shop that offers views to the tannery free of charge and you can see it all from the balcony. Expect to be pressured into buying goods from the shop in return.
  It is possible to get into the tannery itself, hang around near the entrance until someone offers to take you in for 10 dirham. He will get you past the entrance and then you can wander in among the workers. A word of advice: wear closed shoes and maybe bring a mint leaf to sniff if you have a weak stomach.
  The tanneries in the medina features leather-making techniques unchanged since the Middle Ages. Men walk the narrow paths between huge vats of lye and colorful dyes, water wheels creak as the leather is rinsed, and buildings facing the tannery are covered with pelts hanging to dry. Visit early in the morning before the sun hits the tannery and the stench sets in.
• Bou Inania Madrasa. 9AM–6PM. A breathtaking 14th-century religious college. The best example of Islamic architecture a non-Muslim can see in Fez, with wooden walls elaborately carved with geometric patterns and Arabic calligraphy, and a beautiful minaret. In the courtyard there is a portico with a still-functioning mosque, separated by the rest of the courtyard by a small moat. 20 dirham.
• Al Attarine Madrasa, +212 610-271328. 8AM–6PM. Built by the Marinid sultan Uthman II Abu Said in 1323-5. 20 dirham.
• Sahrij Madrasa. Commissioned in 1321 by the Marinid Sultan Abu al-Hassan. 20 dirham.
• Andalusian Mosque. Dates back to the inception of the city in the 9th century, with the completion of the initial foundation in 859-860. This makes it one of the oldest mosques in the world. The mosque had been renovated and expanded several times since then. Today, it is one of the relatively few remaining Idrisid-era establishments and the main landmarks of the city. Off-limits to non-Muslims.
• Borj Nord. Tu-Su 9AM–12PM and 2PM–6PM. One of the two fortresses overlooking the old city and contains an armaments museum. The view from the hills surrounding the old city is spectacular. The fort houses the Museum of Arms. Entrance 20 dirham, 10 - audio guide.
• Borj Sud. Southern fortress.
• Merenid Tombs. The ruins of fourteenth-century tombs, located on a hill with excellent panoramic views over the medina and the wider city, as well as the olive tree lined hills surrounding the city. A nice place for some peace and quiet, a sanctuary from the bustle of the rest of the city—though you may still see the occasional tout.
• Moulay Idriss II shrine. The tomb of Fez's founder. Entrance is limited to Muslims, but the view from just outside its doors is still well-worth hunting down.
• Al Quaraouiyine library and mosque. Similar to Moulay's shrine it has beautifully decorated exteriors and worth a visit. Luckily, it is one of a few mosques in the country that non-muslims are allowed to enter (however, only mosaic courtyards are accessible, not the prayer halls). 20 dirham.
• Mosque and Mausoleum of Sidi Ahmad al-Tijani. Sidi Ahmad al-Tijani is the founder of the Tijaniyya Sufi order. He was born in a Berber family in Aïn Madhi in Algeria, and died in Fez at the age of 80.

• Nejjarine Museum, Al-Najjariyyin square, +212 535740580. 10:00-17:00. Museum of wooden arts and crafts. Many historic items presented in beautiful and spacious Fondouk. The museum has a nice rooftop cafe. 20 dirham.
• Dar Batha Museum, Rue de la Musée. W-M 9am-5pm. A former royal palace, commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I and his successor Abdelaziz in the 19th century. It was converted into a museum in 1916. 10 dirham.
• Synagogue Ibn Danan. A synagogue dating from the 17th century, with a Jewish cemetery nearby. There aren't set opening times, but the guardian will let visitors in for 20 dirham each and give a brief tour of the inside. 20 dirham.
• Berber Pharmacies. They usually have hundreds of jars of twisted root and twig neatly lined up along the walls.
• Garden Jnan Sbil, Avenue Moulay Youssef. 9:00 AM - 8:00 PM. The oldest garden in Fes, created by Sultan Moulay Abdallah in 18th century. It features 3000 plant species, some of them are quite rare. Free admission.
• Glaoui Palace, 1 Rue Hamia Douh. 9AM–5PM. A beautiful run down palace. No fixed price, approx. 25 dirham per person which occasionally includes guided tour.

The Tanneries. In the midst of the maze-like medina are the colorful leather-dying pits. Any number of young boys will offer to guide you to them: just listen for "you want to see the tanneries?" The tour is free (though it is appropriate to offer 1-5 dirham to your "guide").
There is no chance of getting to see the tanneries by yourself, instead, be prepared for physical abuse for even trying! However, just 10 m left of the entrance is a leather shop that offers views to the tannery free of charge and you can see it all from the balcony. Expect to be pressured into buying goods from the shop in return.
It is possible to get into the tannery itself, hang around near the entrance until someone offers to take you in for 10 dirham. He will get you past the entrance and then you can wander in among the workers. A word of advice: wear closed shoes and maybe bring a mint leaf to sniff if you have a weak stomach.
The tanneries in the medina features leather-making techniques unchanged since the Middle Ages. Men walk the narrow paths between huge vats of lye and colorful dyes, water wheels creak as the leather is rinsed, and buildings facing the tannery are covered with pelts hanging to dry. Visit early in the morning before the sun hits the tannery and the stench sets in.

Bou Inania Madrasa. 9AM–6PM. A breathtaking 14th-century religious college. The best example of Islamic architecture a non-Muslim can see in Fez, with wooden walls elaborately carved with geometric patterns and Arabic calligraphy, and a beautiful minaret. In the courtyard there is a portico with a still-functioning mosque, separated by the rest of the courtyard by a small moat. 20 dirham.

Al Attarine Madrasa, +212 610-271328. 8AM–6PM. Built by the Marinid sultan Uthman II Abu Said in 1323-5. 20 dirham.

Sahrij Madrasa. Commissioned in 1321 by the Marinid Sultan Abu al-Hassan. 20 dirham.

Andalusian Mosque. Dates back to the inception of the city in the 9th century, with the completion of the initial foundation in 859-860. This makes it one of the oldest mosques in the world. The mosque had been renovated and expanded several times since then. Today, it is one of the relatively few remaining Idrisid-era establishments and the main landmarks of the city. Off-limits to non-Muslims.

Borj Nord. Tu-Su 9AM–12PM and 2PM–6PM. One of the two fortresses overlooking the old city and contains an armaments museum. The view from the hills surrounding the old city is spectacular. The fort houses the Museum of Arms. Entrance 20 dirham, 10 - audio guide.

Borj Sud. Southern fortress.

Merenid Tombs. The ruins of fourteenth-century tombs, located on a hill with excellent panoramic views over the medina and the wider city, as well as the olive tree lined hills surrounding the city. A nice place for some peace and quiet, a sanctuary from the bustle of the rest of the city—though you may still see the occasional tout.

Moulay Idriss II shrine. The tomb of Fez's founder. Entrance is limited to Muslims, but the view from just outside its doors is still well-worth hunting down.

Al Quaraouiyine library and mosque. Similar to Moulay's shrine it has beautifully decorated exteriors and worth a visit. Luckily, it is one of a few mosques in the country that non-muslims are allowed to enter (however, only mosaic courtyards are accessible, not the prayer halls). 20 dirham.

Mosque and Mausoleum of Sidi Ahmad al-Tijani. Sidi Ahmad al-Tijani is the founder of the Tijaniyya Sufi order. He was born in a Berber family in Aïn Madhi in Algeria, and died in Fez at the age of 80.

Nejjarine Museum, Al-Najjariyyin square, +212 535740580. 10:00-17:00. Museum of wooden arts and crafts. Many historic items presented in beautiful and spacious Fondouk. The museum has a nice rooftop cafe. 20 dirham.

Dar Batha Museum, Rue de la Musée. W-M 9am-5pm. A former royal palace, commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I and his successor Abdelaziz in the 19th century. It was converted into a museum in 1916. 10 dirham.

Synagogue Ibn Danan. A synagogue dating from the 17th century, with a Jewish cemetery nearby. There aren't set opening times, but the guardian will let visitors in for 20 dirham each and give a brief tour of the inside. 20 dirham.

Berber Pharmacies. They usually have hundreds of jars of twisted root and twig neatly lined up along the walls.

Garden Jnan Sbil, Avenue Moulay Youssef. 9:00 AM - 8:00 PM. The oldest garden in Fes, created by Sultan Moulay Abdallah in 18th century. It features 3000 plant species, some of them are quite rare. Free admission.

Glaoui Palace, 1 Rue Hamia Douh. 9AM–5PM. A beautiful run down palace. No fixed price, approx. 25 dirham per person which occasionally includes guided tour.

One of the most fascinating activities to do in Fez is a trip in the medina (Old City). The medina is so complex to navigate that sometimes it is easier to simply lose yourself in the hustle and bustle of the various markets, and find your way out once you have had enough of all the sights, sounds, and smells that will overwhelm your senses. You will eventually find your way out via lots of dried fruit, leather goods, ceramics, textiles and food stalls!

Get a shave in the medina, nowhere is it cheaper than here, and they really pay attention, even trimming your hair.

Make sure you find an opportunity to escape from the bustle of the streets and see the medina from one of its rooftops - some shops and restaurants have rooftop terraces (see the food section below for some useful tips). The views are particularly spectacular during sunset and after dark.

• Sofitel Palais Jamai terrace. Terrace has an incredible view over the medina if you are willing to pay 30 dirham for a glass of tea in order to access it. This is particularly worthwhile if you can time your visit to coincide with the call to prayer, as you can hear multiple minarets from the terrace.

Sofitel Palais Jamai terrace. Terrace has an incredible view over the medina if you are willing to pay 30 dirham for a glass of tea in order to access it. This is particularly worthwhile if you can time your visit to coincide with the call to prayer, as you can hear multiple minarets from the terrace.

Some may consider Fez to be the handicraft capital of Morocco, but in reality the quality and value of its wares can be hit and miss. Leathergoods, copper and brassware are the bargains to be had, although you may also find good prices on drums and other musical instruments.

As a rough guide, you can expect to pay:

• Leather satchel: 200-400 dirham depending on quality
• Drums: 30-150 dirham depending on size and quality
• 10-20 dirham for a full size tagine dish, plus an extra 10 dirham if it's been varnished or decorated.

If you are interested in the cobalt-blue ceramic, you might go to the potteries where they make it. It is really cool to see how they model the clay into a tagine in 45 seconds. From Bab el-Ftouh, it is a 5 dirham taxi trip. Ask the driver to take you to "Les potteries de Fez". There are 2 big "factories" which both show you the whole process if you want or you could just see the exhibition (and buy). Bargain really hard, prices seem to be fixed, but they are not at all!

Bargaining is a way of life that has survived for centuries, and shows no sign of changing. Moroccans even bargain among each other for everything except perhaps their utilities. Don't believe anyone (and you will hear it all the time) who tells you prices are being "regulated". Every other souk claims to be a "Government Regulated Co-op".

There is a single, genuine government-regulated fixed price shop in the Ville Nouvelle where all prices are posted, the goods are of decent (if not amazing) quality, and the single bored cashier will just stare incredulously at you if you attempt to bargain with him. Ask any hotel manager or petit taxi driver to take you to the "Artisana." All products sold in Artisanas come directly from the artists who made the products.

• Made in M, Talaa Kabira. Unique boutique to find good quality articles as leather, passementerie, design ceramic, parfums, and argan oil.

Made in M, Talaa Kabira. Unique boutique to find good quality articles as leather, passementerie, design ceramic, parfums, and argan oil.

The markets near the 'main' gate of Bab Boujeloud (near to Hotel Cascades) are full of yummy food. It is worth just wandering through them, buying random bits of food. Street food is very cheap and is often safe. Restaurants, even cheap ones, will often be up to twice the cost of street food, and the quality can be the same. In the medina is difficult to find cheap food other than in the Bab Boujeloud area. There are only a very few tourist restaurants where you will get ripped off and some food stalls down in the food market near the R'cif place.

• Mezzanine, 17, Kasbat Chams (In front of the Jnaj Sbil Garden, less than 50 m from the place Boujeloud, +212 11078336. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio, Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a comfortable larger seating area for dinners and parties.
• Le Kasbah. Friendly service, a solid selection of inexpensive Moroccan staples (excellent vegetarian tagine) and a couple of lovely high terraces overlooking the Gate on one side and the medina on the other. It is a comfortable atmospheric place to chat to other travellers and its a welcome haven from the bustle of the crowded streets of the medina. Street food is allowed to eat at the terraces. You pay only the service for the drink.
• Fez Lounge, +212 535633097. 95, Zkak Rouah- Tala Kbira. Down the Tala Kbira, on a tiny street on your right, or F Lounge; is the new addition to the medina scene. With walls in dark grey tadelakt and an ambiance of an ultra contemporary Arab dream, Fez Lounge is highly recommended for its Mediterranean inspired tapas such as Camembert bruschetta with walnuts and balsamic vinegar or for its reputed warm brownie with chocolate. Traditional Moroccan dishes like Pastilla and tajines are also available. Owned by an Italian, you can feel its style from the design of the tables to the dim lighting or the Hotel Costes Music.
• Café Medina. Tasty and cosy café-style restaurant, however it can get too touristy. Food is fine, specially the "boricuas" (deep fried thin dough layers wrapping meat-chicken-rice fillings). Mains starting at 60 dirham.
• Restaurant Bouinania. Enjoy lunch on the terrace or a leisurely dinner on the carpet-adorned second floor. The service is very friendly and more than willing to fire up the grill to make you the first brochettes of the day. Tagine, couscous, and other staples are well-done. around 40 dirham, but prices are negotiable down to 25 dirham..
• Cafe Clock. Magnificently restored house in the old medina turned into a cafe. The people are friendly (and speak English) and the food is excellent. Ask to be seated on the terrace, and listen for the call to prayer coming from several minarets in the area. Bring a camera, especially during the day.
• Restaurant Typique Marocain Jenno, 1112 Ouad Zhoun, Fes Medina, +212 0611073294. 50 dirham for salad and main course. Very tasty couscous. The owner speaks very good English and has some very interesting stories to tell.

• Casa Nostra. For pizza, you can try this Italian restaurant.

Casa Nostra. For pizza, you can try this Italian restaurant.

Mezzanine, 17, Kasbat Chams (In front of the Jnaj Sbil Garden, less than 50 m from the place Boujeloud, +212 11078336. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio, Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a comfortable larger seating area for dinners and parties.

Le Kasbah. Friendly service, a solid selection of inexpensive Moroccan staples (excellent vegetarian tagine) and a couple of lovely high terraces overlooking the Gate on one side and the medina on the other. It is a comfortable atmospheric place to chat to other travellers and its a welcome haven from the bustle of the crowded streets of the medina. Street food is allowed to eat at the terraces. You pay only the service for the drink.

Fez Lounge, +212 535633097. 95, Zkak Rouah- Tala Kbira. Down the Tala Kbira, on a tiny street on your right, or F Lounge; is the new addition to the medina scene. With walls in dark grey tadelakt and an ambiance of an ultra contemporary Arab dream, Fez Lounge is highly recommended for its Mediterranean inspired tapas such as Camembert bruschetta with walnuts and balsamic vinegar or for its reputed warm brownie with chocolate. Traditional Moroccan dishes like Pastilla and tajines are also available. Owned by an Italian, you can feel its style from the design of the tables to the dim lighting or the Hotel Costes Music.

Café Medina. Tasty and cosy café-style restaurant, however it can get too touristy. Food is fine, specially the "boricuas" (deep fried thin dough layers wrapping meat-chicken-rice fillings). Mains starting at 60 dirham.

Restaurant Bouinania. Enjoy lunch on the terrace or a leisurely dinner on the carpet-adorned second floor. The service is very friendly and more than willing to fire up the grill to make you the first brochettes of the day. Tagine, couscous, and other staples are well-done. around 40 dirham, but prices are negotiable down to 25 dirham..

Cafe Clock. Magnificently restored house in the old medina turned into a cafe. The people are friendly (and speak English) and the food is excellent. Ask to be seated on the terrace, and listen for the call to prayer coming from several minarets in the area. Bring a camera, especially during the day.

Restaurant Typique Marocain Jenno, 1112 Ouad Zhoun, Fes Medina, +212 0611073294. 50 dirham for salad and main course. Very tasty couscous. The owner speaks very good English and has some very interesting stories to tell.

• Chez Maimonide. Located in the home of Maimonides, the famous Jewish philosopher and rabbi. This restaurant, however, is run by the Muslim family that now lives there, and is non-kosher.
• Le Palais de Fes. A rooftop restaurant over a carpet shop, Dar Tazi offers Fez's best pastilla and other traditional dishes. The stairs up are steep and narrow, but the food and view are well worth it. 350 dirham.
• Palais des Merinides. Table d'hote menus with basic Moroccan specialties in a very grand setting. Mediocre quality, but fabulous surroundings.
• San Remo. Fed up with couscous and tajine? Then you could try this Morocco owned Italian restaurant in the new part of town. Just opposite the police station, it offers a lovely Italian deli and numerous pasta and pizza dishes for a decent price.

Chez Maimonide. Located in the home of Maimonides, the famous Jewish philosopher and rabbi. This restaurant, however, is run by the Muslim family that now lives there, and is non-kosher.

Le Palais de Fes. A rooftop restaurant over a carpet shop, Dar Tazi offers Fez's best pastilla and other traditional dishes. The stairs up are steep and narrow, but the food and view are well worth it. 350 dirham.

Palais des Merinides. Table d'hote menus with basic Moroccan specialties in a very grand setting. Mediocre quality, but fabulous surroundings.

San Remo. Fed up with couscous and tajine? Then you could try this Morocco owned Italian restaurant in the new part of town. Just opposite the police station, it offers a lovely Italian deli and numerous pasta and pizza dishes for a decent price.

• Dar Saada Restaurant. Located in the centre of the medina, this restaurant is a favorite of Travel and Leisure magazine and is worth the indulgence.
• L'Ambre. an elegant and superior dining experience in all of Morocco. Serving up Moroccan cuisine with innovative twists, food is served in one of three rooms, including a spectacular terrace.

Dar Saada Restaurant. Located in the centre of the medina, this restaurant is a favorite of Travel and Leisure magazine and is worth the indulgence.

L'Ambre. an elegant and superior dining experience in all of Morocco. Serving up Moroccan cuisine with innovative twists, food is served in one of three rooms, including a spectacular terrace.

Almost all drinking establishments in Fez are hotel bars. The rest are local bars that women and anyone without a good command of Arabic might be uncomfortable entering. In bars of either type, prostitutes are frequent but mostly ignore western travellers. Fes is a much more traditional town than Casablanca or Marrakesh, and it is technically illegal to drink in public. Purchasing alcohol or seeming intoxicated are sure to draw stern looks from passersby.

• The Bar at Hotel Batha, Place Batha. In the rear of Hotel Batha are two bars - the first is more of a lounge, with comfortable leather chairs and fireplaces. It is definitely the more stately of the two options. In the rear is a night-club type bar that is mostly empty and rarely open.
• Restaurant International. This little place is easy to overlook, but the fact that the outer windows are mirrored should be the first indication it will not be at the top of any tourist routes. The crowd here is all local, and foreigners might expect a few stares and side looks. They serve the basic selection of beer, as well as some of the best spaghetti and pizza in town. Three stories, but avoid the middle one - the band is usually blasting bad synthesizer-Arabic music. Also avoid the basement, unless you are looking for prostitutes.
• The White Souk / Marché Centrale. A good place to find alcohol if you prefer to drink at home. There are two brick-and-mortar liquor stores on either side of the Souk, and many of the vendors inside keep discreet stashes for thirsty foreigners.
• Mezzanine. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio, Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a comfortable larger seating area for dinners and parties. Fully wifi d, Mezzanine transforms from a day time lounge into one of Fez most cosmopolitan dinner, music and venues with its resident DJ. Open from 12:00 until 02:00 non stop. Enjoy a cocktail, beer or wine on the terrace. It is really unique
• L'Alcazar Bar, Riad Fes, 5 Derb Ben Slimane Zerbtana. After a high-energy day in the Medina, L'Alcazar Bar is a comfortable oasis of relaxation and refreshment. A stylish lounge area where stunning design is combined with a warm atmosphere exuding an oriental yet contemporary feel. The lounge bar and fumoir feature a vast choice of cocktails, malt, cognac, wines but also a selection of cigars.

The Bar at Hotel Batha, Place Batha. In the rear of Hotel Batha are two bars - the first is more of a lounge, with comfortable leather chairs and fireplaces. It is definitely the more stately of the two options. In the rear is a night-club type bar that is mostly empty and rarely open.

Restaurant International. This little place is easy to overlook, but the fact that the outer windows are mirrored should be the first indication it will not be at the top of any tourist routes. The crowd here is all local, and foreigners might expect a few stares and side looks. They serve the basic selection of beer, as well as some of the best spaghetti and pizza in town. Three stories, but avoid the middle one - the band is usually blasting bad synthesizer-Arabic music. Also avoid the basement, unless you are looking for prostitutes.

The White Souk / Marché Centrale. A good place to find alcohol if you prefer to drink at home. There are two brick-and-mortar liquor stores on either side of the Souk, and many of the vendors inside keep discreet stashes for thirsty foreigners.

Mezzanine. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio, Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a comfortable larger seating area for dinners and parties. Fully wifi d, Mezzanine transforms from a day time lounge into one of Fez most cosmopolitan dinner, music and venues with its resident DJ. Open from 12:00 until 02:00 non stop. Enjoy a cocktail, beer or wine on the terrace. It is really unique

L'Alcazar Bar, Riad Fes, 5 Derb Ben Slimane Zerbtana. After a high-energy day in the Medina, L'Alcazar Bar is a comfortable oasis of relaxation and refreshment. A stylish lounge area where stunning design is combined with a warm atmosphere exuding an oriental yet contemporary feel. The lounge bar and fumoir feature a vast choice of cocktails, malt, cognac, wines but also a selection of cigars.

As of May 2019, one traveler has confirmed two cases of bed bug infestations: one at Riad el Mizan and another very close by at Dar Naima. These are highly unlikely to be isolated incidents, so readers are advised to be aware and take precautions as necessary. Also, see the general information on riads.

Fez is safe, but crowded. Take standard precautions regarding wallet, purse, etc.

If you hear "Belek! Belek!" behind you, stand aside because a heavily-laden donkey is bearing down on you!

Appear to know where you are going, even if you don't, or you will get offers from false guides. False guides are not dangerous but they can be exasperatingly tenacious. Best technique is to not even acknowledge their presence. That is rude and they won't be pleased, but it is better than to have them walk with you for half an hour. If you have to ask directions ask someone that is obviously busy in their own business or a shopkeeper behind a counter, and try to appear as sure as you can of the way you are going ("This way to Bab R'cif, right?"). Getting caught with a faux guide will cost you, but it will cost the faux guide more: they can receive up to 2 days imprisonment if they get caught. Cops are often in plain clothes, so be wary! A useful strategy with false guides is to say all the lines they have been taught before they have said them to show you know what you are doing; they all say the same thing so just learn it and repeat.

Due to the maze like alleyways in Fes El Bali (Medina) touts will often attempt to mislead visitors by saying this road is closed further down, then offer to take you to a different direction, obviously with intention to turn quick profit out of the unsuspecting foreigner. This is especially endemic around the tanneries. It's best not to take advice from any locals in touristy areas.

As elsewhere in Morocco, women traveling alone may experience harassment.

You should also beware of hustlers (aka con-artists); Fez has far more of them than almost everywhere else and they use more sophisticated techniques. An example of a prominent and rampant scam occurs where you come into Fez by train or bus (even the bus driver) and someone talks to you saying he is coming to visit his relatives, and is actually a respectable outsider (e.g. an owner of a hotel). He will then ask you to come eat with his relatives (their "cousins" or "brothers") and when you get there they will spend most of the time trying to suggest accommodation, offering you tours where they gain commission from all the (especially Carpet) shops, and even organize expensive desert excursions that are actually just you driving in circles just outside the city for three days. Note, especially refrain from handing over your credit card in such situations, you will not get it back.

There are many other scams and annoyances trying to get you into a shop/restaurant/hotel with various degrees of lying in the stories people make up. If in doubt, be independent and look for yourself e.g. whether the hotel you want to go to is indeed closed or under construction.

This is unfortunately one of the sad things about Morocco, that you get to distrust every one, even those people who are genuinely friendly and hospitable, because sometimes this is only a façade.

A decent number of restaurants in the medina offer wifi.

SIM cards offering 4G service and one week of data up to 1 gigabyte (abbreviated Go, as in French gigaoctet) are available in many stores. In 2017, a SIM card by provider INWI (there are others) can be obtained for 30 Dh. Keep the credit-card-sized card the SIM comes in -- it may have a PIN number you'll need to set up the service.

For a North American traveller, Fez requires a real change of outlook or it will be a very high-stress trip! Shopkeepers and guides are very assertive and you will have to get used to saying "no" a lot. On the other hand, they can be genuinely warm and friendly even while trying to sell you something, an idea that is pretty alien to North Americans where it is assumed that a business relationship is the opposite of sincerity!

Non-Muslims are not allowed to visit mosques, although they can visit the medersas (religious schools).

• A visit to the ancient Roman site of Volubilis is a must. This crumbling yet spectacular city has stunning mosaics on offer, and you can easily spend a couple of hours ambling through the ruins.
• Casablanca
• Chefchaouen
• Marrakech
• Meknes is worth a visit, if only due to its calmer and less crowded medina, which has ample shopping opportunities.
• Rabat
• Tangier

A visit to the ancient Roman site of [[Volubilis]] is a must. This crumbling yet spectacular city has stunning mosaics on offer, and you can easily spend a couple of hours ambling through the ruins.

[[Meknes]] is worth a visit, if only due to its calmer and less crowded medina, which has ample shopping opportunities.