Gaoyou

Gaoyou (高邮; Gāoyóu) is a city in Jiangsu province.

Gaoyou City is a historic city of 150,000 located on the eastern shore of Gaoyou Lake, in central Jiangsu Province. A rapidly growing city today, Gaoyou’s history stretches back over 7,000 years to the ancient settlement at Longquizhuang. The name “Gaoyou” translates as “high post”, referring to Gaoyou’s important role as part of China’s early Imperial postal system. In celebration of this heritage, a roundabout at the center of town features a large sculpture of the post couriers. The Grand Canal of China, the world’s longest man-made waterway, runs west of the city, and beyond that lies Gaoyou Lake. The Beijing-Shanghai expressway is just east of the city, providing easy access for visitors and goods. Gaoyou is a suburb of Yangzhou, which is 40 km (25 mi.) to the south, and falls under its political jurisdiction. Gaoyou County has an area of 1963 square kilometers (755 sq. miles) and a population of approximately 830,000. It includes over 20 townships, including the Hui Nationality (Muslim) township of Lingtang, which is home to eastern China’s largest Mosque. The garment industry plays a major role Gaoyou’s broadly based economy, producing over 30 million pieces of clothing per year. Other manufacturing and industrial businesses in the area include the machinery, textile, mechanical, building materials, and electronics industries. With a location in China’s breadbasket, agriculture also plays an important role in the economy. Fresh produce abounds in the city’s markets, and local specialties include Gaoyou Double Yolk Duck Eggs and Lotus root. Gaoyou has a long, rich history, beautiful scenery, and 59 historical sites. With this in mind, it is easy to see why the Jiangsu Provincial Government has designated Gaoyou a “Famous Historic and Cultural City”. Gaoyou double-yolk duck eggs are one of the region’s most famous exports. The County has been renowned for the eggs since the Song Dynasty, 900 years ago. Qin Shaoyou, a famous poet during the North Song Dynasty, gave Gaoyou eggs as presents to his best friend and teacher, Su Dongpo, who was the governor in Xuzhou at that time. Many writers and poets in Chinese history have written of Gaoyou eggs, and described the eggs delicacy in their works.

Gaoyou is off the beaten path, as far as tourism goes, and the industry isn’t well supported. If you see a Gaoyou souvenir you like even a little, buy it. They are few and far between. It is worth noting that, unlike some of the larger cities in China, you will find few people in Gaoyou that speak English. This can make ordering food, and making even minor arrangements with the hotel staff, a challenge. On the other hand, you can walk freely down the streets without vendors selling cheap knock-off goods hounding you.

You may have a hard time cashing traveler’s checks in Gaoyou as the hotel doesn’t take them, nor do they exchange US dollars. There is a bank, one block north of the Hotel (left out the front door) where you can exchange funds. It also has a bank machine out front where you can withdraw cash with a credit card. It is probably best to travel to Gaoyou with all the money you need already exchanged for RMB.

The first record of Gaoyou’s residents resides at the Longqiu archeological site just north of Gaoyou. There, scientists have uncovered a 7,000-year-old village where farmers grew rice near an ancient river. The Chinese Government has recognized the significance of this site and given it national level protection. Emperor Ying Zheng founded Gaoyou in 221 BC, during the Qin Dynasty, when he had a relay station for the postal courier system built on the site of today’s city. This post gave Gaoyou its name, with Gaoyou meaning “High Post”. In AD 1375, the Ming Dynasty upgraded Gaoyou’s postal services with the building of the Yucheng Post station. Located adjacent to the Grand Canal, the station made it possible for imperial special messengers to not only change horses, but also utilize boats and ferries, which were always at their disposal. Gaoyou has two ancient pagodas, the Jingtu and Zhenguosi Pagodas. The 30-meter high Jingtu Pagoda, in central Gaoyou, was constructed in AD 1612 during the Ming Dynasty, and has recently gone through an extensive renovation. The 25 meter Zhenguosi Pagoda is located on a small island on the western side of the Grand Canal. Although the 1,100+ year old Pagoda is in poor repair, the adjoining Buddhist temple has undergone an extensive renovation, and a new bridge now allows access to the island. In 486 BC, The Grand Canal was constructed through Gaoyou. It finally reached its maximum length in AD 1291 stretching 1794 kilometers from Beijing in the north, to Hangzhou in Zhejiang Province in the south. The canal has gone through many cycles of building, use, disrepair, and rebuilding over the centuries and has been a significant factor in the development of China. Today the canal is still a busy waterway used to transport massive quantities of gravel and other bulk goods for China’s bustling economy. Gaoyou Lake and the Grand Canal are suspended above the surrounding plains by an extensive system of dikes. Over the centuries, breaks in the dikes have lead to massive floods, including a flood in 1931 that killed as many as 3.7 million people. On the grounds of Wenyou Tai, a historic site on the north side of the city, there is a museum dedicated to remembrance of the1931 floods featuring aerial photos of a flooded Gaoyou taken by Charles & Anna Lindbergh. Several notable figures in Chinese culture and history are associated with Gaoyou. Among them are Qin Shaoyou, a well-known poet of the Song Dynasty; Wang Nian Sun and Wang Yin Zhi (father and son), celebrated classics interpreters during the Qing Dynasty; Sun Yunzhu, the modern paleontologist; and Wang Chenqi, the contemporary writer.

• For souvenirs, try the China Post office. It is kitty-corner across the intersection of Wenyouzhong Lu and Haichao Lu from the RunYang Cun Hotel. During a visit to Gaoyou in 2005 it was a great (and about the only) place to find souvenirs. There were find nice postcard books (¥15 ea.), Gaoyou commemorative coin sets (¥80-120), and Gaoyou Stamp/History books (¥138-380), among other items. A return visit in 2006 found that they were no longer selling Gaoyou related souvenirs, but it’s worth checking in to see if they are again. Of course, you can also mail home your postcards from there to get that priceless Gaoyou postmark.
• If jade jewelry is your thing, there is a jewelry store at the North Gate of Renmin Park. It has an excellent selection of jade jewelry at reasonable prices. It is a great place for a keepsake, or gift, from Gaoyou. Make sure to bring along your guide or interpreter, as they don’t speak English.
• Take an early morning walk. Gaoyou can get quite loud and busy during the day. The morning is a refreshing time to walk around the quiet streets, and observe the residents starting their day. You will find dumpling vendors stuffing a day’s worth of dumplings and many people out exercising among other sights.
• Take a walk through Old Town. It’s short but very interesting. If you want to buy antiques or other items with a local flavor, this is the place. The shops seemed to keep 07:00—16:00 business hours during the summer. In the winter, many didn’t open until much later, if at all.
• Stop at one of the open-air food markets. They offer a fascinating look into the local culture. You will see large piles of produce and meat of all types spread out on tables for purchase. There are two established markets, the Beimen Market north of the CWI (see map), the Zongshikou Market near the Renmin Hospital. There are also several markets that appear on the streets every morning. In the morning, you can follow the crowds to the larger markets. The markets are busiest early in the morning.
• Hire a pedi-cab. If you’re feeling tired from walking around, take a pedi-cab, they’re everywhere. Bring along a card from the hotel to show the driver, who will get you back to the Hotel for only about ¥5. Car Taxis don’t cost much more.