Hampi

India

Hampi, in the state of Karnataka, India, is the site of the once-magnificent capital of the Vijayanagara Empire. The ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Virupaksha Temple

Hampi was the capital of South Indian Vijayanagara Empire from the fourteenth to seventeenth centuries.

Being a UNESCO world heritage site, Hampi attracts a lot of foreigners. For first-time visitors, it is highly recommended to take a guide along with you, because the magic and grandeur of the place is fully understood only when one knows the history and legends associated with the place.

Before the fall of Vijayanagara Empire, diamonds were sold on the streets. The main street selling diamonds and other precious stones was surprisingly called Pan Supaari Street. A visitor can still see the exact location of Pan Supaari Street in Hampi, which has been marked with a board by Archaeological Survey of India.

Hampi is well worth at least one visit. The area is simply stunning and you will be in awe of the millions of boulders surrounding the area. However, within this arid landscape lies a little oasis with lush palm, banana, and mango trees nestled near the river.

Hampi is a great place to spend a few days wandering around and discovering the rich, vibrant history while also having a bit of 'your' time.

Hampi hosts the 'Hampi Utsav' (literally 'Hampi Festival') every year during first week of November. It is a visual delight as all the monuments/ruins are lighted in the night and it is a cultural extravaganza of dance and music.

  • A Forgotten Empire , Robert Sewell — a dated text (published over a century ago), but a thorough and interesting exploration of the rise and fall of the Vijayanagara Empire.
  • The New Cambridge History of India of India: Vijayanagara , Burton Stein — part of Cambridge's gigantic multivolume work on the history of India, this is a definitive text on the Vijayanagara Empire's historical import.

Hampi panorama Hampi is a visual delight, especially due to its stark contrast from most other places. Rocks are all you see whichever direction you look. Vegetation is visible in the wet months; but again it never dominates the landscape. It is an ideal spot for people who are interested in history and/or nature.

There are many sites of interest in and around Hampi. The following list of must-visits is sorted by the number on the map you see in the temples (from 1 to over 80 sites!): 1 to 35 being around Hampi; 40s to 70s in the southern part towards Kamalapura. Most sites are free, but the Vithala temple, the Lotus Mahal (incl. Zanana enclosure and Elephant Stables) as the Archeological museum have a combined ticket valid for one day only, so you have to plan a bit your journey! For instance, if you rent bicycles and start early in the morning, you can cover the southern temples in the morning, spend the hot hours of midday in the museum and go in the late afternoon to the Vithala temple! And eventually keep all sites closest to Hampi for a second day!

All these places are towards Hampi Bus Stand area and you don't need to cross river.

You can buy a local map costing ₹15, and cover all the places on your own taking a bike/Scooty on rent. Otherwise, you can hire and auto to do local sightseeing. It would cost you around ₹400-₹500.

  • Tungabhadra Dam, 16km from Hampi and its associated gardens are nice. It has got a nice dancing fountain too. Visiting the Tungabhadra Dam can be a nice filler instead of just waiting for the bus/train (typically at 10/11PM at night). Auto-rickshaw can take directly from Hampi to Tungabhadra dam at a cost of ₹200 (as of September 2009). Or another option is from the gate you can have the bus by paying ₹20/- per person for a half an hour visit to the dam. If you have plans to catch your train/bus back from Hospet, you could see Tungbhadra dam and return from Hospet. It takes 45 to 60 min to see Tungbhadra dam. You need to park your vehicles at the entrance and take a government bus to the top and return. It costs ₹20/- return.

Dancing Girls' Bath on the ancient Courtesan Street There are several "Shivalings" along the river which the boatman will guide you to. The old capital called Anegundi, across the river from Hampi, also has many sites. You can also go to Anegundi from Virupapur Gadde by road. There is a road alongside old broken bridge (Bukka's Aqueduct). The Hanuman Temple on Anjenaya Hill (involves climbing up 572 steps, is believed to be the birthplace of Hanuman) and the Pampa Sarovar are worth a visit. Both of these places are around 7-8 km from Old broken bridge.

There is Daroji bear sanctuary around 16 km from Hampi, opposite side of Kamalapura/Hospet. It opens between 1PM to 6PM. Not a must see but you can go there for a nice drive/ride if you have some time to kill.

To do justice to all the sites, one needs a minimum of 3 full days of sightseeing. To discover all the ruins, it may take much more than 3 days. Maybe months.

A new feature introduced by the tourist department of Karnataka called the Hampi By Night is magnificent where in the monuments are lit in bright varying colors in the night. For more information, contact the tourism department of Karnataka.

Hampi specifically is a small settlement on the river (Hampi Bazaar, Virupaksha Temple, etc.). The old city of Vijayanagara encompassed an area of 25 square kilometers and ruins, monuments, structures, etc. lie scattered across the area. In fact, when arriving at Hampi from Hospet, one will pass many of these things.

If one sets base at Hampi Bazaar, one can get a manageable, navigable orientation of the entire area, one can look at four main zones.

  • Anegundi. Crossing the river to the north and heading east, one can reach Anegundi whose history goes back, according to local legends, to the Ramayana (the Hindu epic).
  • Hampi Bazaar. This is the main village of Hampi as defined on the map and on the local administration files. It is essentially two clumps of settlements on either side of the Virupaksha Temple. Within walking distance is the river and the structures along the river bank, Virupaksha Temple, a still in use sacred area, at the western end of the Hampi Bazaar, the Hampi Bazaar itself which is one long "main street" (now in ruins) running east-west and the Hemakunta hill (with a number of structures on it and under it).
  • The Royal Enclosure. This, according to the official ASI literature, was the heart center of the city, the downtown so to speak. There is the Mahanavami Dibba, a large platform, almost three stories tall, which gives a brilliant view of the country side. This platform was used as a base for various religious functions involving the royal family with the general population standing down. Apart from this, there is a stepped well, an underground shrine, lots of smaller platforms (meant for assembly / public meetings), etc. There is the Hazaar Rama temple on one side and the Queen's bath (or "Rani Ki swimming pool" as the cleaning lady told me) on the other side. A little further away from the central area of the Royal Enclosure is the Pan Supari Bazaar (opposite the Hazaar Rama temple).
  • The Sacred Enclosure. At the eastern end of the Hampi Bazaar, there are two paths. One goes up the hill while the other goes left towards the river. Either path takes you through lines of temples, extant and in ruins. If one takes the hill path, on the right is the Matanga, Elephant hill. Going up straight, one will see the Achyutarama Temple. This can also be reached by following the stone path along the river bank. Next to the Achyutarama Temple is a long market area called Courtesan's Street. Apparently, it was a market for jewels, precious stones, etc. Walking further along the river, one passes various small structures, essentially different temples. One kilometer or so from the Courtesan's Street is the majestic Vithala Temple inside which is the iconic Stone Chariot. This trail can be done by a mix of walking and cycling. There are rocks (with steps cut into the rocks) to climb so at some point the cycles will have to be left behind. The Vithala Temple can be reached by road / car as well. It is a winding route and requires a detour to Kamalapur.

Apart from all this, between Hospet and Hampi, there are a number of small towns and villages like Kamalapur, Kadirampura, etc. which are various parts of the old Vijayanagara city and which have now become fragmented settlements and small towns.

  • Sanapur Lake. Exploring the hidden gems in the Gangavathi taluk, SanapurLake is a reservoir fed by Tungabhadra Dam canal. The best and unique thing about this place is experiencing the boat ride in a huge round, wooden bowl called Coracle.The Coracle gives a little adventurous feel, plus the one riding it is really humble people. For a short ride it's usually 100 and for a long ride, it's 150 per person.

Hemakuta Hill temples. #4

Virupaksha Temple. #5

Monolith Bull. #6

Matanga Hill. #7. From where you can see the most beautiful sunsets.

Achyut Raya temple. #8. Built in 1534, it was the last temple executed in the city, before the fall of the fall of Vijayanagara Empire at the Battle of Talikota in the early 1565.

Vithala Temple. #23. Dedicated to Vithoba, an avatar (incarnation) of the gods Vishnu and Krishna. The famous Stone Chariot is here. ₹500 for foreigners with Lotus Mahal and the Archeologic Museum.

Badavilinga Temple. #30. The largest monolithic linga in Hampi.

Lakshmi Narasimha temple. #31

Zanana Enclosure. #46. Also houses the Lotus Mahal. ₹500 for foreigners with Vithala and the Archeologic Museum.

Elephant Stables. #55. Part of the Zanana Enclosures entrance fee of the Lotus Mahal.

Hazara Rama Temple. #59

Royal Enclosures. #61

Mahanavmi Dibba. #62

Pushkarani step wells. #66

Queen's Bath. #68

Tungabhadra Dam, 16km from Hampi and its associated gardens are nice. It has got a nice dancing fountain too. Visiting the Tungabhadra Dam can be a nice filler instead of just waiting for the bus/train (typically at 10/11PM at night). Auto-rickshaw can take directly from Hampi to Tungabhadra dam at a cost of ₹200 (as of September 2009). Or another option is from the gate you can have the bus by paying ₹20/- per person for a half an hour visit to the dam. If you have plans to catch your train/bus back from Hospet, you could see Tungbhadra dam and return from Hospet. It takes 45 to 60 min to see Tungbhadra dam. You need to park your vehicles at the entrance and take a government bus to the top and return. It costs ₹20/- return.

Anegundi. Crossing the river to the north and heading east, one can reach Anegundi whose history goes back, according to local legends, to the Ramayana (the Hindu epic).

Hampi Bazaar. This is the main village of Hampi as defined on the map and on the local administration files. It is essentially two clumps of settlements on either side of the Virupaksha Temple. Within walking distance is the river and the structures along the river bank, Virupaksha Temple, a still in use sacred area, at the western end of the Hampi Bazaar, the Hampi Bazaar itself which is one long "main street" (now in ruins) running east-west and the Hemakunta hill (with a number of structures on it and under it).

The Royal Enclosure. This, according to the official ASI literature, was the heart center of the city, the downtown so to speak. There is the Mahanavami Dibba, a large platform, almost three stories tall, which gives a brilliant view of the country side. This platform was used as a base for various religious functions involving the royal family with the general population standing down. Apart from this, there is a stepped well, an underground shrine, lots of smaller platforms (meant for assembly / public meetings), etc. There is the Hazaar Rama temple on one side and the Queen's bath (or "Rani Ki swimming pool" as the cleaning lady told me) on the other side. A little further away from the central area of the Royal Enclosure is the Pan Supari Bazaar (opposite the Hazaar Rama temple).

The Sacred Enclosure. At the eastern end of the Hampi Bazaar, there are two paths. One goes up the hill while the other goes left towards the river. Either path takes you through lines of temples, extant and in ruins. If one takes the hill path, on the right is the Matanga, Elephant hill. Going up straight, one will see the Achyutarama Temple. This can also be reached by following the stone path along the river bank. Next to the Achyutarama Temple is a long market area called Courtesan's Street. Apparently, it was a market for jewels, precious stones, etc. Walking further along the river, one passes various small structures, essentially different temples. One kilometer or so from the Courtesan's Street is the majestic Vithala Temple inside which is the iconic Stone Chariot. This trail can be done by a mix of walking and cycling. There are rocks (with steps cut into the rocks) to climb so at some point the cycles will have to be left behind. The Vithala Temple can be reached by road / car as well. It is a winding route and requires a detour to Kamalapur.

Sanapur Lake. Exploring the hidden gems in the Gangavathi taluk, SanapurLake is a reservoir fed by Tungabhadra Dam canal. The best and unique thing about this place is experiencing the boat ride in a huge round, wooden bowl called Coracle.The Coracle gives a little adventurous feel, plus the one riding it is really humble people. For a short ride it's usually 100 and for a long ride, it's 150 per person.

Cross the river in a coracle ferry Watch elephant bathing

  • A good amount of walking is a must, as the ruins are scattered over a huge area. Moped/bicycle hire is a good option to move around.
  • Cross the river by one of those coracle ferry. If you do not know swimming, ensure that the coracle is not overcrowded. Your life is at stake. As of November 2009, the cost is ₹15 per person and ₹5 for each piece of luggage. The other side of the river (Anegondi) spots a number of pre Vijayanagara relics.
  • If you go there in Jun-August, you will not find coracle ferry in action, the river is usually very high then, so if you want to go Anegondi you have to travel ~40 KM, I don't think you will like Anegondi after Hampi, actually there is nothing to see except the Hanuman temple on Anjana hill, but be prepare for a climb of about 600 steps.
  • If you are staying at Virupapur Gadde side of the river, plan and return by 6'o clock. If you have a train/bus to catch in the night, checking out before 6'o clock in the evening helps. If the ferry closes, the auto/car option becomes a much longer and costlier affair.
  • Rock climbers frequently visit Hampi to scale the boulders and can often be seen around with their crash pads, mostly on the Virupapura Gaddi side of the river.
  • Wildlife - The occasional crocodile may be encountered in the river or on rocks midstream, sometimes several meters long.
  • Leopards frequent some of the rocky hills, sometimes not too far from human habitation, and may venture out at night to prey on dogs or the odd goat.
  • Sloth bears are not only confined to Daroji sanctuary, but may wander the sugar cane fields at night. They can be dangerous when encountered with cubs in tow.
  • As many as 185 species of bird can be identified at various times of the year in the Hampi environs.

  • The stone carvings are made by local artists are a good souvenirs to buy here. The same thing in Bangalore will cost ten times the price. The hand stitched blankets are also a good choice.
  • Shops can be found all over the Hampi, mainly near to Virupaksha temple, selling jewelry, bags, clothes, shawls etc. Visitors can bargain in these shops to fetch good deal. You can even opt for tailor made dresses, if you have enough time and patience.
  • In Hampi, one can see clothes hanging in diverse range of colors and variety with beautiful edges. The town is a real paradise for the people who want to buy western costumes but not for ladies who are looking for saris.
  • Hoova Craft Shop & Café - It is located in city center and tourists can have a tea or coffee, while looking around the local goods and handicrafts.

Hoova Craft Shop & Café - It is located in city center and tourists can have a tea or coffee, while looking around the local goods and handicrafts.

There are lots of places in Hampi Bazaar where you get satisfying and inexpensive food, though be prepared for a long wait at most places as the chefs are typically family members who prepares food to order. However, they are good at their jobs and can offer a wide range of different cuisines.

Restaurants:

  • All Tribes Coffee Shop, near Funky Monkey. Great, cheap and open hangout place for travellers and backpackers. Get to know local people. The coffee shop serves coffee and Indian chai, cookies and other sweets. There is a fair trade shop and vegan friendly. During the day are many activities, like meditation, video screenings and camp fires. Family friendly.
  • Chillout Restaurant. Excellent food and very friendly staff. Try their divine Nargis Kofta. They also make decent pizza.
  • Durga Roof Top, Near Virupaksha Temple (From the bazaar when you approach Virupaksha Temple, take a right at the temple, next take a left ( as the road turns), take a right further and you will find yourself at Durga Roof Top.. Very good and authentic north Indian food and their Hello to the queen dessert is simply amazing.
  • The Goan Corner, an idyllic cafe on the other side of the river is an experience in itself. Very famous among the foreigner crowds, it takes a 10-15 min walk across the green paddy fields to make your way to this place. It is run by a very friendly family where the lady don, Sharmila reigns supreme. Unlike the other closely arranged cafes, Goan Corner is rather desolated and adds to the magic that Hampi creates.
  • Garden Paradise. This is behind the line of shops in Hampi Bazaar which are towards left in the direction towards Virupaksha Temple. Located by the banks of Tungabhadra River, the ambiance is quite pleasant. Reasonably priced too. They offer huts as well for accommodation.
  • Laughing Buddha restaurant. This is on other side of river (Virupapur Gadde) and close to Shanthi guest house. There are mattress, cushions and low benches in it. So, you can just lie down and sit at ease. Continental food is very nice here with good variety. It also offers Punjabi food.
  • Mango Tree. One of the nicest, most relaxed restaurant settings you will ever come across. Set alongside the banks of the river, you can lounge comfortably on the steps underneath the huge mango tree sipping some of the best lassis you will come across in India. They also offer thali at lunch time and have a broad range of food on the menu. It's the perfect place to hideaway from the afternoon heat and zone out to the beautiful view. But the food is very expensive and quality is not so good. Also, due to the boom in the mining industry near Hampi in the recent times, they have become less focused towards Tourists and more towards the Mining owners.
  • Mayura Bhuvaneshwari, Kamalapura. Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari serves delicious buffet lunch for vegetarians. Approximately 100/-. If you plan your day such that you reach kamalapura around mid-day, this can be a great place for lunch. Unlimited food is served in very clean and serene surroundings. Even though it's a very popular and a very clean hotel, make sure you use packaged drinking water. 60.
  • Sagar Hotel's Idli, Dosa & Gunta Ponganalu. Just besides Gopi Guest House and right in front of the Shambhu Guest House, which are located near the Virupaksha Temple, 'Shankaramma' under a thatched roof makes delicious idlies, dosas and the tasty 'gunta pongal.' Do not miss this place. The food is not only delicious but also very cheap.
  • Tom & Jerry. Located on the east-side of the bazar-area near the boulders. Small but very comfortable rooftop-restaurant that serves delicious home-cooked food in a very friendly atmosphere.

All Tribes Coffee Shop, near Funky Monkey. Great, cheap and open hangout place for travellers and backpackers. Get to know local people. The coffee shop serves coffee and Indian chai, cookies and other sweets. There is a fair trade shop and vegan friendly. During the day are many activities, like meditation, video screenings and camp fires. Family friendly.

Chillout Restaurant. Excellent food and very friendly staff. Try their divine Nargis Kofta. They also make decent pizza.

Durga Roof Top, Near Virupaksha Temple (From the bazaar when you approach Virupaksha Temple, take a right at the temple, next take a left ( as the road turns), take a right further and you will find yourself at Durga Roof Top.. Very good and authentic north Indian food and their Hello to the queen dessert is simply amazing.

The Goan Corner, an idyllic cafe on the other side of the river is an experience in itself. Very famous among the foreigner crowds, it takes a 10-15 min walk across the green paddy fields to make your way to this place. It is run by a very friendly family where the lady don, Sharmila reigns supreme. Unlike the other closely arranged cafes, Goan Corner is rather desolated and adds to the magic that Hampi creates.

Garden Paradise. This is behind the line of shops in Hampi Bazaar which are towards left in the direction towards Virupaksha Temple. Located by the banks of Tungabhadra River, the ambiance is quite pleasant. Reasonably priced too. They offer huts as well for accommodation.

Laughing Buddha restaurant. This is on other side of river (Virupapur Gadde) and close to Shanthi guest house. There are mattress, cushions and low benches in it. So, you can just lie down and sit at ease. Continental food is very nice here with good variety. It also offers Punjabi food.

Mango Tree. One of the nicest, most relaxed restaurant settings you will ever come across. Set alongside the banks of the river, you can lounge comfortably on the steps underneath the huge mango tree sipping some of the best lassis you will come across in India. They also offer thali at lunch time and have a broad range of food on the menu. It's the perfect place to hideaway from the afternoon heat and zone out to the beautiful view. But the food is very expensive and quality is not so good. Also, due to the boom in the mining industry near Hampi in the recent times, they have become less focused towards Tourists and more towards the Mining owners.

Mayura Bhuvaneshwari, Kamalapura. Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari serves delicious buffet lunch for vegetarians. Approximately 100/-. If you plan your day such that you reach kamalapura around mid-day, this can be a great place for lunch. Unlimited food is served in very clean and serene surroundings. Even though it's a very popular and a very clean hotel, make sure you use packaged drinking water. 60.

Sagar Hotel's Idli, Dosa & Gunta Ponganalu. Just besides Gopi Guest House and right in front of the Shambhu Guest House, which are located near the Virupaksha Temple, 'Shankaramma' under a thatched roof makes delicious idlies, dosas and the tasty 'gunta pongal.' Do not miss this place. The food is not only delicious but also very cheap.

Tom & Jerry. Located on the east-side of the bazar-area near the boulders. Small but very comfortable rooftop-restaurant that serves delicious home-cooked food in a very friendly atmosphere.

Hampi is a religious center so drinking is not allowed. Therefore, beer or other alcoholic drinks are generally not available at local restaurants. However, Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari is in the neighboring town of Kamalapur has a bar that serves beer and wine.

Other hotels like Shanti and Kishkinda, which are located across the river, do serve beer and hard liquor.

Few cafes and small shops are also spotted in Hampi Bazaar providing soft drinks, lassi and some other famous south Indian beverages.

Visitors should be sure to watch out for monkeys. They are notorious for snatching and running away with visitors' handbags, cameras, and other loose belongings.

Keeping mosquito repellent on hand is a good idea.

Be extra careful when you choose to explore rocky places, especially when you are trying to climb over boulders.

Avoid travelling to Hampi during the months of April and May, as temperature can get as high as 43°C (110°F). If you are planning to visit it during summer, remember to carry sufficient water so as to avoid the risk of dehydration. Bottled drinking water is easily available. You may not be able to get chilled bottles (as electricity will sometimes cut out).

  • Out of deference to the sacred nature of the site, do not consume drugs and alcohol in the area.
  • When visiting the temple or ruins of former temples, cover up and do not show too much skin. The locals will not stop you, but may bear a silent grudge. Be a good guest.
  • Please visit any monument only for the sake of visiting, but not for any other purpose. Please do not scribble or climb or sit on any monuments. Do remember that they have stood rain and sun for centuries and have to continue to stand for many more centuries.

  • Lakkundi
  • Badami
  • Aihole
  • Pattadakal
  • Kakkabe — It is located very near to Hampi and highly famous for Padi Igutappa temple. What makes this place unique is its peaceful and serene environment.
  • Goa — accessible by train via Hospet. The Amaravathi express takes an incredible route through jungle and past a waterfall.

[[Kakkabe]] — It is located very near to Hampi and highly famous for Padi Igutappa temple. What makes this place unique is its peaceful and serene environment.