Puno

Puno is a port city at an altitude of over 3,800 meters, on the shores of Lake Titicaca on the Altiplano of Peru. Despite its picturesque hillside setting, the city itself is a ramshackle collection of mostly unfinished modern buildings – its biggest attraction is as a departure point for the famous floating islands on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. This, and its proximity to the Bolivian border, means that it’s a regular stop on the South American tourist trail.

Puno is also the name of the region.

The city of Puno is a melting pot of the Aymara and Quechua cultures. Most of its inhabitants are of Andean origin and it has a unique mixture of modernity and Andean traditions. Women in traditional clothing live and work next to their modern versions.

Puno is not exactly the jewel of Peru, but it has its charms. The central square is reasonably pleasant. Calle Lima is a pedestrian walking street with most of the restaurants, bars and clubs. The main reason to visit Puno is to get out onto Lake Titicaca. Almost every hotel will offer some kind of packaged boating deal for the lake, and most of them are good. There is a lot of competition (and good business deals) between the hotels and the tour boats, so most of the prices stay fairly even. If you feel your hotel is making a reasonable offer, take it – a van will be able to pick you up right at the hotel door.

Puno's elevation is about 3,822 m, which means it is cold at night, and it is very high, so there is significant risk of altitude sickness (80% if you go directly from sea level). If you arrive from a lower elevation, it is safer to spend a few days acclimatizing at a lower altitude before Puno, and then a day or two taking it easy in order to acclimatize. A gradual ascent might start in the Sacred Valley, then Cusco, then Puno.

The sun is blisteringly hot during the day and there is less atmosphere to protect you at this altitude; you should wear a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. During high season (July, August) almost every day one tourist is hospitalized with sunburn, especially after falling asleep on top of one of the sometimes agonizingly slow boats to the islands of Taquile or Amantani. See also Sunburn and sun protection.

Most Puno sights are outside of the city. Check the “Go next”-section below.

• Floating Islands Tour boats leave every 40 min from the dock (S/5 by taxi). These cost S/10 for the return boat trip plus a S/10 entry fee to the islands. The last boat leaves around 16:30. The boat takes you to a couple of different islands (there are more than 50) where the island’s “president” explains how the islands are built. Everything is made of reeds, including the islands themselves, the people's houses and their boats.
• The Islands of Taquile and Amantani where you can sleep over with a local family.
• The peninsulas of Chucuito and Capachica that form the right and left arm of the Puno Bay. In Chucuito you can stay in Luquina Chico or Karina, in Capachica the community of Llachón is becoming famous, but you can also stay on the other side of the peninsula in Ccotos or the small island of Tikonata.

In Puno you can visit the panoramic viewpoints of the Puma and the Condor statues, but especially the last one has had security issues the last few years. Visit in group or accompanied by locals. Especially the Condor has a great view on the bay. Take a taxi (S/8) to the top and go down the more than hundred stairs, in 10 min you are on the main square.

Also worth visiting: the Dreyer Museum (S/15) close to the main square, and the Yavari boat museum. S/7 by taxi (Hotel Posada del Inca).

In the last few years a few smaller museums have opened, like the Galindo Gallery with paintings in the Cusco School style, the Paleontological Museum, the Totora Museum, and the Museo de la Coca y Costumbres/Coca and Costumes Museum, devoted to the coca leaf.

• Many agencies offer a 2 days/1 night trip to the islands of Lake Titicaca. Visit the Uros floating islands on the water, just outside of Puno, where a small community dwells in reed huts. From there, you can continue to Amantani, where you sleep over in a family house. Lastly there’s Taquile island, famous for its textiles made only by men. Ask your hostel for a quote -- it should be around S/100.
• Kayaking with Augusto. Augusto is really into kayaking and an experienced guide. He cares very much for the well-being of the participants and does everything to make everyone feel safe and comfortable. He offers a tour to the Reserva Titicaca Lake (3 hours/US$35 per person) and to the floating islands Uros (5 hours). He was born in Peru and lived many years in the United States, so he speaks Spanish and English very well.
• There are several llama farms in Puno available for tourists to go to. You can learn about the history and agricultural llama use. Fun Fun!, check all the places in Inca lake

You can buy souvenirs here for less than in Cusco or Lima. There is a fairly large market down by the water.

If you get away from the heavily touristed walking streets near the Plaza de Armas, there are plenty of places with inexpensive lunch and dinner combos for S/3.50 as of December 2017.

In and around the mercado central are several budget places to lunch for less than S/3.

Down Jr Tacna from the mercado, many restaurants have dinner menus for S/3 or so.

Most tourist spots are in and around Calle Lima, with main courses around S/20. Make sure you taste a pollo a la brasa, it’s sold everywhere and costs 20 Soles for 1/2 chicken (as of Sep 2018). A little bit of bargaining will get you a discount, but don’t push it too far if you want your food prepared without any bodily fluids.

• Cafe restaurant Monterrey, Pasaje Grau 158, has reasonably cheap and good breakfasts.
• Restaurant pizzeria Ollantay, Pasaje Grau 160, has pizzas, trout and alpaca. Ask for el menú.
• Restaurant Colors, Calle Lima, has creative nouveau andean and international dishes and free Wi-Fi. Really good food and the desserts are fab!
• Cafe restaurant Sal y Azucar, Pasaje Grau, relatively cheap but delicious desserts and some savory meals.
• Restaurant Vida Natural, Jr. Lambayeque 141. Perfect if you like natural, fresh and tasty vegetarian food. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Cheap complete menus. Custom dishes on request. Friendly owners. (Closed on Saturdays)

Cafe restaurant Monterrey, Pasaje Grau 158, has reasonably cheap and good breakfasts.

Restaurant pizzeria Ollantay, Pasaje Grau 160, has pizzas, trout and alpaca. Ask for el menú.

Restaurant Colors, Calle Lima, has creative nouveau andean and international dishes and free Wi-Fi. Really good food and the desserts are fab!

Cafe restaurant Sal y Azucar, Pasaje Grau, relatively cheap but delicious desserts and some savory meals.

Restaurant Vida Natural, Jr. Lambayeque 141. Perfect if you like natural, fresh and tasty vegetarian food. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Cheap complete menus. Custom dishes on request. Friendly owners. (Closed on Saturdays)

• Restaurant Don Giorgio, Calle Lima, serves Italian food at very high prices, and offers Wi-Fi.

Restaurant Don Giorgio, Calle Lima, serves Italian food at very high prices, and offers Wi-Fi.

• Fruit juices at one of the many juguerias on the second floor of the market.
• Many gringo spots at or near the pedestrian mall.
• Pacha cafe-bar, calle independencia (main pedestrian blvd. Bar on main street offers average coffee and cocktails. Any food ordered is brought in from outside, so best not to eat there. Staff have a game to see how much they can short-change gringos. Free Wi-Fi. 2 for S/12 happy hour.

Pacha cafe-bar, calle independencia (main pedestrian blvd. Bar on main street offers average coffee and cocktails. Any food ordered is brought in from outside, so best not to eat there. Staff have a game to see how much they can short-change gringos. Free Wi-Fi. 2 for S/12 happy hour.

The area is secure but it is advisable to hire the transfer from Juliaca to Puno through a tour operator of reputation.

Walking up in the hills gives nice views over the city and the lakes, but it is dangerous! Tourists are often the victims of armed robberies in the hills.

There are loads of agencies offering trips from here, and most hotels and inns will be more than happy to reserve for you. Note that the latter often charge an extra S/5 for this service.

• Chucuito (19 km, S/1 by colectivo) can be done as a daytrip from Puno, or en route to Bolivia.
• Cutimbo is a nice daytrip, for pre-Inca ruins and views.
• Sillustani has the best examples of pre-Inca tombs in the area, and also has some nice lakeside views.
• Isla Taquile, famed for its traditional Titicacan way of living, can be done either as a daytrip, or staying a night or two.
• Uro Islands, the floating reed islands, are mostly visited on daytrips. Recently has been opened a hospedaje on one of the islands.
• Cuzco - if you can afford it and are a railway lover, the train to Cuzco is unforgettable. You won't find any locals on this train, but you'll find luxury and beautiful scenery. Bookings on Peru rail.

• Copacabana