Heraklion

Heraklion (Greek: Ηράκλειον, Irákleio) or Iraklio is the major city and capital of Crete, the largest of the Greek islands. Its Archaeological Museum holds the remains of the 4000-year old Minoan civilization, which centred around the nearby palace of Knossos, with its Minotaur legend. The city has several Venetian and Byzantine churches and the biggest in East Mediteranean well-preserved Venetian wall and harbour fortress from the 15th century.

Around 1880 the Greek Kalokairinos and later in 1900, the British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans began excavating a site just south of the city, thinking to find remains of ancient culture maybe Mycenean. He quickly discovered a much older, more powerful civilisation, which he called “Minoan” after the Minotaur legend. 4000 to 3000 years ago, Crete dominated the east Mediterranean from this site, Knossos. These discoveries changed our ideas of the ancient world – and Crete’s modern fame and tourist industry were born.

Heraklion (in Greek Ηράκλειον, also transcribed as Herakleion, Iraklio, Irakleion) has been much fought-over down the centuries. From 1204 it was held by the Venetians, who built a great wall around the city, and a harbour fort, to defend against the Ottoman Turks. But the Ottomans won in 1669 and held the island until 1898 when their empire was crumbling. Crete for a time was independent, then was incorporated into Greece in 1913.

Modern air transport brought huge numbers of tourists, mostly heading to resorts further along the coast, and the city sprawled out way beyond its historic centre – the population is now some 200,000. Many developments were ugly and ill-planned. Then came recession, and turmoil in the Greek economy. Heraklion today is an interesting city with a pedestrianized center and a lovely coastal promenade.

Like the rest of Crete, Heraklion has a Mediterranean climate. Summers are hot and dry with clear skies, but often with stiff breezes to relieve the heat. Winters are mild with little rain and rare frosts.

The must-see sights are the Archaeological Museum downtown, and the Palace of Knossos 5 km south. Their combined ticket is the best buy. Take a stroll along the city’s Venetian wall (Greek: Τείχη). It’s 7.5 km long, with seven bastions jutting out. On the southernmost of these, the Martinengo Bastion, is the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis with its moving inscription, "I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free." From the wall head towards the harbour, taking in the Historical Museum, which picks up the story where the Archaeological Museum leaves off. The Koules or fortress stands over the inner harbour but the mole continues for almost 2 km, with views back over the city and the ferry port. You don’t need to enter the Koules to go on the mole, but you may need to dash where the waves are breaking at its base.

• Heraklion Archaeological Museum, 2 Xanthoudidou St, +30 2810279000. summer (25 Apr – 31 Oct) daily 8 am to 8 pm; winter (1 Nov – 30 Apr) Mon 10 am to 5 pm, Tues-Sun 9 am to 4 pm. Houses the most important and representative finds from Minoan civilisation and excavations across the island of Crete. Highlights include statues of the Snake Goddess, the Bull-Leaping Fresco, the Phaistos Disk, and Minoan seals and jewellery. Also includes a number of finds from Classical Greek and Roman periods. €10 full, €5 concessions; combined with Knossos (valid for 3 days) €16 & €8.
• Palace of Knossos, +30 2810 231940, +30 2810 226470, +30 2810 226092, +30 2810 224630. daily, summer 08.00-18.00, winter 08.00-15.00. If you see just one ruin on Crete, see Knossos (in Greek it’s Κνωσός, stress is on the second syllable). The site is fairly compact, and much of it is accessible with restricted mobility. But 30 minutes will do it. Full €15, concessions €8; combined with Archaeological Museum €16 & €8.
• Koules, +30 2810 288484. daily 8 am to 3 pm. Koules (Greek: Κούλες) was built by the Venetians in the 16th C. From the parapet, enjoy the view towards Dia Islet, where Jacques Cousteau found many sunken remains of Cretan sea trade. €2 full, €1 concession.
• Historical Museum of Crete, 27, Sofokli Venizelou Ave, +30 2810-283219, +30 2810-288708. summer (Apr–Oct) Mon–Sat 9 am to 5 pm; winter (Nov–Mar) Mon–Sat 9 am to 3:30 pm. Covers the story of Crete from the Byzantine era to the present day. This includes material on World War 2 and the German occupation – this was formerly displayed in the “Museum of the Battle for Crete and National Resistance” but this has now closed. €5 full, €3 concession, children 12 and under: free.
• Loggia, 25 August Str. elegant city meeting place, built in 1628
• Morosini Fountain.
• St Minas Cathedral, +30 2810 282402. (Greek: Άγιος Μηνάς)
• St Titus Church, Pl. Agiou Titou, +30 281 034 6079. (Greek: Άγιος Τίτος) Known for housing the skull of St. Titus himself.
• St Catherine of the Sinaites Church, Monis Odigitrias 1. Mo-Sa 09:30-19:30; Su 10:00-19:30. (Greek: Αγία Αικατερίνη Σιναϊτών)
• St Mark's Basilica, Pl. Kallergon 100. (Greek: Βασιλική Αγίου Μάρκου)
• Dominican Church of St Peter, I. Mitsotaki. (Greek: Άγιος Πέτρος Δομηνικανών)
• Natural History Museum of Crete, Sofokli Venizelou Ave, +30 2810 282740.
• Nikos Kazantzakis Musem, Myrtia 70100, +30 2810 741689. 9:00-17:00 (in season). Nikos Kazantzakis Museum, in the village of Myrtia (Varvari) 20 km south of Heraklion, focuses on Crete's most prominent modern intellectual figure. 5€.

Take the main highway east towards Malia to reach the Cretaquarium and the folklore museum.

• CretAquarium Thalassocosmos, +30 2810 337788 (for bookings: +30 2810 337888). daily from 9.30 am, to 9 pm summer, to 5 pm winter. The biggest aquarium in the Eastern Mediterranean. €9 full; concessions plus winter reductions.
• Lychnostatis Open-Air Museum, Hersonissos 700 14, Hersonissos, +30 28970 23660. April to Oct Sun-Fri 9 am to 2 pm, closed Sats, closed Nov-March. Open-air Cretan folklore museum. €5, concessions €2-3.

Heraklion Archaeological Museum, 2 Xanthoudidou St, +30 2810279000. summer (25 Apr – 31 Oct) daily 8 am to 8 pm; winter (1 Nov – 30 Apr) Mon 10 am to 5 pm, Tues-Sun 9 am to 4 pm. Houses the most important and representative finds from Minoan civilisation and excavations across the island of Crete. Highlights include statues of the Snake Goddess, the Bull-Leaping Fresco, the Phaistos Disk, and Minoan seals and jewellery. Also includes a number of finds from Classical Greek and Roman periods. €10 full, €5 concessions; combined with Knossos (valid for 3 days) €16 & €8.

Palace of Knossos, +30 2810 231940, +30 2810 226470, +30 2810 226092, +30 2810 224630. daily, summer 08.00-18.00, winter 08.00-15.00. If you see just one ruin on Crete, see Knossos (in Greek it’s Κνωσός, stress is on the second syllable). The site is fairly compact, and much of it is accessible with restricted mobility. But 30 minutes will do it. Full €15, concessions €8; combined with Archaeological Museum €16 & €8.

Koules, +30 2810 288484. daily 8 am to 3 pm. Koules (Greek: Κούλες) was built by the Venetians in the 16th C. From the parapet, enjoy the view towards Dia Islet, where Jacques Cousteau found many sunken remains of Cretan sea trade. €2 full, €1 concession.

Historical Museum of Crete, 27, Sofokli Venizelou Ave, +30 2810-283219, +30 2810-288708. summer (Apr–Oct) Mon–Sat 9 am to 5 pm; winter (Nov–Mar) Mon–Sat 9 am to 3:30 pm. Covers the story of Crete from the Byzantine era to the present day. This includes material on World War 2 and the German occupation – this was formerly displayed in the “Museum of the Battle for Crete and National Resistance” but this has now closed. €5 full, €3 concession, children 12 and under: free.

Loggia, 25 August Str. elegant city meeting place, built in 1628

Morosini Fountain.

St Minas Cathedral, +30 2810 282402. (Greek: Άγιος Μηνάς)

St Titus Church, Pl. Agiou Titou, +30 281 034 6079. (Greek: Άγιος Τίτος) Known for housing the skull of St. Titus himself.

St Catherine of the Sinaites Church, Monis Odigitrias 1. Mo-Sa 09:30-19:30; Su 10:00-19:30. (Greek: Αγία Αικατερίνη Σιναϊτών)

St Mark's Basilica, Pl. Kallergon 100. (Greek: Βασιλική Αγίου Μάρκου)

Dominican Church of St Peter, I. Mitsotaki. (Greek: Άγιος Πέτρος Δομηνικανών)

Natural History Museum of Crete, Sofokli Venizelou Ave, +30 2810 282740.

Nikos Kazantzakis Musem, Myrtia 70100, +30 2810 741689. 9:00-17:00 (in season). Nikos Kazantzakis Museum, in the village of Myrtia (Varvari) 20 km south of Heraklion, focuses on Crete's most prominent modern intellectual figure. 5€.

CretAquarium Thalassocosmos, +30 2810 337788 (for bookings: +30 2810 337888). daily from 9.30 am, to 9 pm summer, to 5 pm winter. The biggest aquarium in the Eastern Mediterranean. €9 full; concessions plus winter reductions.

Lychnostatis Open-Air Museum, Hersonissos 700 14, Hersonissos, +30 28970 23660. April to Oct Sun-Fri 9 am to 2 pm, closed Sats, closed Nov-March. Open-air Cretan folklore museum. €5, concessions €2-3.

• Heraklion Summer Arts Festival - from June to September
• Amoudara the city's beach area; a 6 km strip of sandy beach, lots of cafes, bars and hotels and the site of "Technopolis", a modern multiplex cinema and open-air theatre.
• Horseback riding, experienced and amateur riders can ride at the beach of Karteros, or take riding lessons at Ippikos Omilos Hrakliou, located 6 km east of Heraklion, in Karteros.
• Rock climbing, locals and visitors can climb a 15 m rock at the suburb of Karteros, east of Heraklion. Safety equipment is provided
• Water fun, at the nearby Water City and Aqua Plus water parks.
• Heraklion Sailing Club(Ιστιοπλοϊκός Όμιλος Ηρακλείου Tel:2810242120 - email: istiopl@her.forthnet.gr) - provides sailing lessons, sailing trips, yacht charters and also has its own seafood restaurant. On the former premises of the port refrigeration plant, east of the Port Authorities.

Heraklion Summer Arts Festival - from June to September

Amoudara the city's beach area; a 6 km strip of sandy beach, lots of cafes, bars and hotels and the site of "Technopolis", a modern multiplex cinema and open-air theatre.

Horseback riding, experienced and amateur riders can ride at the beach of Karteros, or take riding lessons at Ippikos Omilos Hrakliou, located 6 km east of Heraklion, in Karteros.

Rock climbing, locals and visitors can climb a 15 m rock at the suburb of Karteros, east of Heraklion. Safety equipment is provided

Water fun, at the nearby Water City and Aqua Plus water parks.

Heraklion Sailing Club(Ιστιοπλοϊκός Όμιλος Ηρακλείου Tel:2810242120 - email: istiopl@her.forthnet.gr) - provides sailing lessons, sailing trips, yacht charters and also has its own seafood restaurant. On the former premises of the port refrigeration plant, east of the Port Authorities.

• Visit the central open market in Meidani square and buy mountain herbs, spices and folk natural remedies.

Throughout the city centre, it is easy to find cheap tavernas (ταβέρνα) offering full meals for under €20 for two people. A strict budget can be met by sticking to the supermarkets which provide the usual array of fruits, vegetables and cheese for modest prices (€5/day is quite feasible.) Central cafes serve the local breakfast treat bougatsa, a local pastry with cottage cheese, served with honey, or cinnamon and sugar. Also available are the usual complement of pastry shops for standard meals such as spanakopita (spinach pie) and various cheap deserts.

• Pagopiion (Ice-Factory) is a "quirky" restaurant and cafe/bar, at St Titus square, by the church. You can sit outside and enjoy the setting, or you might be tempted by the dramatic decor to sit inside. The food is excellent, and the menu different and interesting.
• Herb's Garden (The Roof Garden of Lato Boutique Hotel) The name has been inspired from the traditional Cretan herbs. Offers a spectacular view to Heraklion’s Venetian fortress and Cretan Sea. Opens from early afternoon and serves fresh fish and salads accompanied by local aperitifs and a variety of fine wines. Later in the afternoon there is special coffee and tea arrangements, fresh fruit juices, ice cream and cocktails.

Pagopiion (Ice-Factory) is a "quirky" restaurant and cafe/bar, at St Titus square, by the church. You can sit outside and enjoy the setting, or you might be tempted by the dramatic decor to sit inside. The food is excellent, and the menu different and interesting.

Herb's Garden (The Roof Garden of Lato Boutique Hotel) The name has been inspired from the traditional Cretan herbs. Offers a spectacular view to Heraklion’s Venetian fortress and Cretan Sea. Opens from early afternoon and serves fresh fish and salads accompanied by local aperitifs and a variety of fine wines. Later in the afternoon there is special coffee and tea arrangements, fresh fruit juices, ice cream and cocktails.

• Raki, also known as tsikoudia, is the trademark of Cretan day and night life, a strong clear drink similar to grappa in Italy or orujo in Spain. It is made from the 'must' of grape skins and twigs after the local production of the white wine. It doesn't taste like aniseed, as opposed to the Turkish rakı. Most raki is standard spirit strength of 40% or 80^o proof, but some are much stronger. It's often served in small glasses after dinner with a plate of fruit or other dessert.
• Cretan wine: Try the distinctive Cretan wine, produced in the island for at least 4000 years. Labels: Sitia, Peza Union. The Cretans themselves drink so called 'open' wine, straight out of the barrel, like fresh white wine, and the sometimes very old dark rusty red wine, a bit like port. Typical Cretan wine varieties are Marouvas and Kotsifali (both red wines).

Raki, also known as tsikoudia, is the trademark of Cretan day and night life, a strong clear drink similar to grappa in Italy or orujo in Spain. It is made from the 'must' of grape skins and twigs after the local production of the white wine. It doesn't taste like aniseed, as opposed to the Turkish rakı. Most raki is standard spirit strength of 40% or 80^o proof, but some are much stronger. It's often served in small glasses after dinner with a plate of fruit or other dessert.

Cretan wine: Try the distinctive Cretan wine, produced in the island for at least 4000 years. Labels: Sitia, Peza Union. The Cretans themselves drink so called 'open' wine, straight out of the barrel, like fresh white wine, and the sometimes very old dark rusty red wine, a bit like port. Typical Cretan wine varieties are Marouvas and Kotsifali (both red wines).

Free WiFi provided by municipality, and some cafes. 3G & 4G networks are also available

Road safety is wanting and generally the attitudes of all road users are poor and reckless. For pedestrians, there are haphazard pavements, usually entirely obstructed by parked cars and bikes, meaning the road itself has to be used by pedestrians. Other roads lack pavements. Road crossings for pedestrians do not seem to be recognized by motorists, making crossing difficult in busy roads. Drivers and bikers may even drive through junctions when the "green man" is indicating it is safe for pedestrians to cross. The bikers seem to be the worst, usually wearing no helmet and happily talking on a mobile phone or reading a text message while driving. Sometimes bikers ride on the pavements, and expect pedestrians to move out their way.

There are many stray cats and dogs in the city. The dogs can often be seen in small packs, and may bark and growl but do not attack if they are left alone.

Heraklion can seem traffic-choked, polluted and crowded with chain-smokers at times. A visit would not be advisable for those very sensitive to cigarette smoke (e.g. asthmatics), as smoke is everywhere. Even no smoking rooms in hotels are likely to have the smell of cigarettes drift from the corridor or the window. Fortunately anywhere near the sea front there is a refreshing mild sea breeze.

Within reach of a day-trip, but worth longer, are Rethymno (the most charming old town on the island), Chania, and Agios Nikolaos. Chania is the best base for exploring the Samaria Gorge, and Agios Nikolaos is your base for seeing Spinalonga. You’ll need your own car to see Anogia, or Phaistos Palace and Matala beach, on a day trip.