Hpa-an

Hpa-an (Karen ဖးအါ၀့ၢ်ဖိ; Burmese ဘားအံမြို့) is a city (population 421,575 as of 2014) in Kayin State in Southeastern Myanmar.

Hpa-an is the capital of Kayin State. It is surprisingly underdeveloped given its relative proximity to Mawlamyine and Yangon but this can be explained by the fact that the area has been in conflict with the Government for many years and has only recently become relatively peaceful. With the expected completion of the Greater Mekong Subregion East-West Corridor at the end of 2015, when improvements to the road between Mae Sot in Thailand and Mawlamyine are due to be finalised, Hpa-an will have great prospects to export to Thailand, and the town and surrounding region are likely to boom.

• Shweyinhmyaw Paya. This pagoda at the north-west end of town has nice views of the sunset. You can watch from a viewing tower or at the side of the river next to the pagoda.
• Kan Thar Yar Lake. This lake in the lower part of the city and its wooden bridge are recommended in the evening.
• Kaw Ka Taung Cave. This is a small and low cave built using tiles and filled with numerous small and big Buddhas. Bring a torch since there is something in the end to explore. Going further just by the cave, after 200 m there is a nice swimming pool with very clear water from the mountain and hundreds of fish in it, circled by half a dozen restaurants right next to beautiful rice fields. Take a swim and get off the salt.
• Mat Ka Na Bridge & Village. Sometimes also spelled Lat Ka Na. This concrete bridge is a famous and picturesque destination. Explore the village behind the bridge.
• Saddan Cave. Sunrise to sunset. A huge cave filled with a Buddha face looking rock, a reclining Buddha statue, a pagoda and many more Buddhist items. There is lighting nowadays but do not forget (ǃ) to bring along your shoes when entering the cave, to walk further and through after the pagoda part (around 500 m). At the other end there are boats waiting for a nice trip on the lake and another cave (about 1,000 kyat). Alternatively, you can eat something at the nearby restaurant. 1,000 kyat donation demanded.
• Yae Ta Khon. A nice swimming pool in a cool surrounding. Unfortunately, women are not allowed to swim in the upper pool. Following up the hill to the right of the pool there are many white pagodas standing in a geometrical and quite picturesque order.
• Lumbini Garden. A nice looking "garden" with 1,150 sitting and quadratically placed Buddhas at the foot of Zwegabin mountain. In early 2017 a cable car was inaugurated to get a glance of the garden from above. 4,000 kyat for foreigners.

• Mount Zwegabin. From the top it offers a spectacular 360° views of the surrounding planes, especially when the air is still clear, i.e. in the morning and during wet season. It takes up to 4 hr to walk up the 723 m mountain and down again. Bring enough water for the climb and heat. There are at least two main tracks, one leading up north from "Lumbini Garden" and another one going down and east towards the main road that serves Kaw Ka Taung Cave, Ein Du village and Saddan Cave. However it will be hard to use both tracks if you come with rented motorbike. After an accident in February 2017 it is not possible to stay overnight at the top.

• Kyauk Kalap. A monastery in the middle of an artificial lake filled with uncountable amounts of small (jumping around) and big fish (sticking out their mouths). It contains a pillar-like and interestingly stable or to say impossibly still standing rock with a pagoda mounted on top. Looks very nice for a couple of pictures. The rock can be climbed. Before the lake another golden temple with a nice looking Buddha statue can be visited. Free.
• Kaw Goon Cave. Besides the Saddan Cave, this is also a very famous cave and worth the visit, causing the steep price. The rock carvings are said to originate from the 13th century. If you are not keen to pay the entrance, climb the close lookout for free. It may be possible to skip the "donation" check by keeping to the left and walking behind the buildings facing the main path. Watch out for the monkeys. 3,000 kyat "donation".
• Ya-The-Byan Cave. The entrance to this cave is 116 feet above sea level. Stemming back from the 17th century. With three Buddha images (standing and sitting), nearly 5 feet in height. It is located close to the village with the same name. Top of the hill exit has an amazing sunset view deck.

• Bat Cave. This is a great experience and impressive nature spectacle when an endless stream of 100,000s of bats come flying out of their cave at sunset (check the sunset time for your dates, it can be between 5:20PM in November to 6:40PM in July). The bats start coming out of the cave almost exactly at sunset, and the whole spectacle takes more than 1 hr (although the vast majority of the flying mammals fly out of the cave in the first 10 min). Bring patience and a torch (for the walk back). Go a bit earlier and climb up the nearby hill in front of the cave with a stupa on top to have a stunning view of the river and countryside. The best place to see the bats is near the stupa at the base of the stairs. About 5,000 kyat for a taxi to get there and back from Hpa-an. It can also be booked as a tour with most of the guest houses, e.g. Soe Brothers Guesthouse. 1,000 kyat.
• Bayin Nyi Cave. Placed in a beautiful surrounding with a nearby lake and pagoda.

Shweyinhmyaw Paya. This pagoda at the north-west end of town has nice views of the sunset. You can watch from a viewing tower or at the side of the river next to the pagoda.

Kan Thar Yar Lake. This lake in the lower part of the city and its wooden bridge are recommended in the evening.

Kaw Ka Taung Cave. This is a small and low cave built using tiles and filled with numerous small and big Buddhas. Bring a torch since there is something in the end to explore. Going further just by the cave, after 200 m there is a nice swimming pool with very clear water from the mountain and hundreds of fish in it, circled by half a dozen restaurants right next to beautiful rice fields. Take a swim and get off the salt.

Mat Ka Na Bridge & Village. Sometimes also spelled Lat Ka Na. This concrete bridge is a famous and picturesque destination. Explore the village behind the bridge.

Saddan Cave. Sunrise to sunset. A huge cave filled with a Buddha face looking rock, a reclining Buddha statue, a pagoda and many more Buddhist items. There is lighting nowadays but do not forget (ǃ) to bring along your shoes when entering the cave, to walk further and through after the pagoda part (around 500 m). At the other end there are boats waiting for a nice trip on the lake and another cave (about 1,000 kyat). Alternatively, you can eat something at the nearby restaurant. 1,000 kyat donation demanded.

Yae Ta Khon. A nice swimming pool in a cool surrounding. Unfortunately, women are not allowed to swim in the upper pool. Following up the hill to the right of the pool there are many white pagodas standing in a geometrical and quite picturesque order.

Lumbini Garden. A nice looking "garden" with 1,150 sitting and quadratically placed Buddhas at the foot of Zwegabin mountain. In early 2017 a cable car was inaugurated to get a glance of the garden from above. 4,000 kyat for foreigners.

Mount Zwegabin. From the top it offers a spectacular 360° views of the surrounding planes, especially when the air is still clear, i.e. in the morning and during wet season. It takes up to 4 hr to walk up the 723 m mountain and down again. Bring enough water for the climb and heat. There are at least two main tracks, one leading up north from "Lumbini Garden" and another one going down and east towards the main road that serves Kaw Ka Taung Cave, Ein Du village and Saddan Cave. However it will be hard to use both tracks if you come with rented motorbike. After an accident in February 2017 it is not possible to stay overnight at the top.

Kyauk Kalap. A monastery in the middle of an artificial lake filled with uncountable amounts of small (jumping around) and big fish (sticking out their mouths). It contains a pillar-like and interestingly stable or to say impossibly still standing rock with a pagoda mounted on top. Looks very nice for a couple of pictures. The rock can be climbed. Before the lake another golden temple with a nice looking Buddha statue can be visited. Free.

Kaw Goon Cave. Besides the Saddan Cave, this is also a very famous cave and worth the visit, causing the steep price. The rock carvings are said to originate from the 13th century. If you are not keen to pay the entrance, climb the close lookout for free. It may be possible to skip the "donation" check by keeping to the left and walking behind the buildings facing the main path. Watch out for the monkeys. 3,000 kyat "donation".

Ya-The-Byan Cave. The entrance to this cave is 116 feet above sea level. Stemming back from the 17th century. With three Buddha images (standing and sitting), nearly 5 feet in height. It is located close to the village with the same name. Top of the hill exit has an amazing sunset view deck.

Bat Cave. This is a great experience and impressive nature spectacle when an endless stream of 100,000s of bats come flying out of their cave at sunset (check the sunset time for your dates, it can be between 5:20PM in November to 6:40PM in July). The bats start coming out of the cave almost exactly at sunset, and the whole spectacle takes more than 1 hr (although the vast majority of the flying mammals fly out of the cave in the first 10 min). Bring patience and a torch (for the walk back). Go a bit earlier and climb up the nearby hill in front of the cave with a stupa on top to have a stunning view of the river and countryside. The best place to see the bats is near the stupa at the base of the stairs. About 5,000 kyat for a taxi to get there and back from Hpa-an. It can also be booked as a tour with most of the guest houses, e.g. Soe Brothers Guesthouse. 1,000 kyat.

Bayin Nyi Cave. Placed in a beautiful surrounding with a nearby lake and pagoda.

Hpa-an is famous for its numerous surrounding caves, mountains and green planes. Most guesthouses organise tours to those (like Soe Brothers and Golden Sky) - full-day trips cost 30,000 kyat (for up to 6 people). In case you arrive late, the Bat Cave evening tour is a highly recommended choice. However, you can also easily explore everything on your own by renting a motorbike from many guesthouses, e.g. Soe Brothers, Galaxy Hotel, Lwin Pyar Guesthouse or Good Luck Motorbike Rental next to Soe Brothers. It takes about a day (without the 4 hr climb of Zwegabin mountain) and the rental costs about 6,000 kyat - depending on the season. Fuel will set you back by another 1,000-1,500 kyat. No road or bridge toll is required on a scooter or bicycle. Below are two recommendations for a day-trip by scooter.

Leaving Hpa-an early at 8:30 and returning around 19:00. The journey has a length of about . The gpx track is attached to this page.

Kaw Ka Taung Cave, Mat Ka Na Bridge & Village, Saddan Cave, Yae Ta Khon, Lumbini Garden, next Kyauk Kalap to the west, then Kawgoon Cave as well as Ya-The-Byan Cave, and last but not least the Bat Cave for a lasting sunset & bat experience. Probably there will not be enough time to climb Mount Zwegabin from Lumbini garden, if you want to visit all sights listed above.

For a slightly less demanding tour try this round-trip. Sightseeing stops are Ya-The-Byan Cave (monkeys), Kaw Goon Cave, Kyauk Kalap, Lumbini Garden, Yae Ta Khon pool (for lunch - 1,500-2,000 kyat), Mat Ka Na Village, Kaw Ka Taung Cave.

• Hpa-Pu village and hill. Take a boat across the river to Hpa-Pu and learn something about the history and name of Hpa-an. If you feel energetic you can hike up the hill north of Hpa-Pu.
• Rent a bicycle to go around the city and to visit the Bat Cave. It is not too far away.
• Take a boat from Hpa-an to Mawlamyine for a picturesque and slow trip down the river. You can sometimes charter a private boat. Ask at Soe Brothers to see about availability (price is 8,000 kyat). The boat will only run if it has already been chartered by tourists to come up from Mawlamyine; if so, they'll take you back to Mawlamyine. The charter from Mawlamyine to Hpa-an is 70,000 kyat for the whole boat. The trip takes about 3 hr.
• Hair dresser: Get a new haircut for 1,500 kyat. The wash is another 1,500 kyat and includes a head massage. Shwe Wad Boy and Lady Hair Beauty Spa in Phula Min Supermarket 3rd floor (mall). No English spoken but they will understand what you want.

Hpa-Pu village and hill. Take a boat across the river to Hpa-Pu and learn something about the history and name of Hpa-an. If you feel energetic you can hike up the hill north of Hpa-Pu.

• Myo Ma Zay Gyi Market. Everything is sold here from cosmetics to clothing to fruits to gold.

Myo Ma Zay Gyi Market. Everything is sold here from cosmetics to clothing to fruits to gold.

• Soe Brothers Guesthouse has maps and can recommend a good Chinese restaurant.
• Meat-lovers can find a cheap meal in nearly every house in the evening, small family run food-stalls.
• At the central market (Myo Ma Zay Gyi Market) opposite the mosque, some street stands sell (extremely cheap) soup with stuffed tofu and stuffed tomatoes (200 kyat for the soup, 100 kyat for each stuffed tofu/tomato). This place is also recommended for breakfast. Otherwise just walk around; many places prepare street food in the evening.
• Khit Thit, Zay Tan St (Across the street from Lucky Restaurant. Quite expensive for Myanmar, but a big selection of tasty food and big portions. 2,000-6,000 kyat (vegetarian/meat).
• Lucky Restaurant, Zay Tan St (Across the street from Khit Thit. Good food, good beer, nicer atmosphere and decoration than Khit Thit. 1,500-4,000 kyat (vegetarian/meat).
• San Ma Tau Restaurant, Main Rd (650 m east of the Clock Tower turn right, +95 58 21 802. Great ratings on Google. Lots of side dishes and unlimited veggie food. The fish curry is really good. Serves delicious coconut jaggery with sesame seeds. 3,000 kyat for rice & 2 curries.
• Shwe Htone Maung Cafe. 9AM-5PM. Praised for its great breakfast including variations of noodles and bananas. Also try the vermicelli.
• New Day Bakery, Bogyoke St (Across from where you catch the bus.. Serves fresh (not instant) coffee for a cheap price. They have a great variety of different coffee shakes, iced coffee, frappucino, and fresh fruit juices. 600+ kyat for coffee and fresh juices.
• Mya Kan Thar Food Centre, Corner of Yone Kone St. and Zwekabin St. (Ask local taxi to "Hin Thar Gone" round about. The shop is close to the round about., +95 58 22533. 7AM-9PM. Provide clean, fresh, healthy and delicious light food. Suitable for who seeking safe food around Hpa-an. The noodle and fried rice dishes are freshly prepared and well cooked and serve while hot. The Shop is located near government offices and quiet place. It is designed with traditional thatch roofing which give nature coolness who getting hot and humid after walking around famous lake "Kan Thar Yar". Our shop is close to Kayin Museum and good place to stop by for light food/lunch. Beer and liqour not available. Hand made fresh juices refresh your tiredness of visiting around Hpa-an. US$1-3.
• Night Market. There is a night market with a huge variety of food, directly at the Kan Thar Yar lake. Just go down the "School Street" from the main road until you see it next to the lake.
• Veranda Youth Community Cafe, Zwekabin St., Ward 4, Hpa-An (Near Kan Thar Yar Lake, +959 787208504. A nice and cool place which is also supporting the local youths develoPMent programs. Popular among the local expatriates and there is also a tourists information centre to assist those who might need help to travel around Hpa-An.

At the central market (Myo Ma Zay Gyi Market) opposite the mosque, some street stands sell (extremely cheap) soup with stuffed tofu and stuffed tomatoes (200 kyat for the soup, 100 kyat for each stuffed tofu/tomato). This place is also recommended for breakfast. Otherwise just walk around; many places prepare street food in the evening.

Khit Thit, Zay Tan St (Across the street from Lucky Restaurant. Quite expensive for Myanmar, but a big selection of tasty food and big portions. 2,000-6,000 kyat (vegetarian/meat).

Lucky Restaurant, Zay Tan St (Across the street from Khit Thit. Good food, good beer, nicer atmosphere and decoration than Khit Thit. 1,500-4,000 kyat (vegetarian/meat).

San Ma Tau Restaurant, Main Rd (650 m east of the Clock Tower turn right, +95 58 21 802. Great ratings on Google. Lots of side dishes and unlimited veggie food. The fish curry is really good. Serves delicious coconut jaggery with sesame seeds. 3,000 kyat for rice & 2 curries.

Shwe Htone Maung Cafe. 9AM-5PM. Praised for its great breakfast including variations of noodles and bananas. Also try the vermicelli.

New Day Bakery, Bogyoke St (Across from where you catch the bus.. Serves fresh (not instant) coffee for a cheap price. They have a great variety of different coffee shakes, iced coffee, frappucino, and fresh fruit juices. 600+ kyat for coffee and fresh juices.

Mya Kan Thar Food Centre, Corner of Yone Kone St. and Zwekabin St. (Ask local taxi to "Hin Thar Gone" round about. The shop is close to the round about., +95 58 22533. 7AM-9PM. Provide clean, fresh, healthy and delicious light food. Suitable for who seeking safe food around Hpa-an. The noodle and fried rice dishes are freshly prepared and well cooked and serve while hot. The Shop is located near government offices and quiet place. It is designed with traditional thatch roofing which give nature coolness who getting hot and humid after walking around famous lake "Kan Thar Yar". Our shop is close to Kayin Museum and good place to stop by for light food/lunch. Beer and liqour not available. Hand made fresh juices refresh your tiredness of visiting around Hpa-an. US$1-3.

Night Market. There is a night market with a huge variety of food, directly at the Kan Thar Yar lake. Just go down the "School Street" from the main road until you see it next to the lake.

Veranda Youth Community Cafe, Zwekabin St., Ward 4, Hpa-An (Near Kan Thar Yar Lake, +959 787208504. A nice and cool place which is also supporting the local youths develoPMent programs. Popular among the local expatriates and there is also a tourists information centre to assist those who might need help to travel around Hpa-An.

A "sophisticated" traveler community including bars and clubs has yet to develop. Some shops, e.g. the one opposite Galaxy Motel, sell alcohol.

Most buses and pickups/vans leave from the Clock Tower in the center.

• Mawlamyine – Famous for the biggest reclining Buddha statue of Myanmar, and it is the 3rd biggest city of Myanmar. The bus (no air-con) is about 2 hr, 1,000 kyat and starts northwest of the Clock Tower.. Or 3 hr by boat at 8AM for 8,000 kyat per person or 70,000 kyat charter; ask at your guesthouse.
• Kyaiktiyo – Famous for the Golden Rock. Most buses stop only at Kyaikto from where you have to take further transportation (pick-up) to get to Kinpun ("base camp"), from where the regular and pricey rollercoaster trucks go up to Kyaiktiyo with the Golden Rock. Most of the (budget) hotels are located at Kinpun. There are some direct buses to Kinpun, just ask for it. Bus with air-con is about 4 hr for 5-7,000 kyat.
  • A "direct" pick-up van to Kinpun leaves around 7AM from the Main road northwest of the Clock Tower. Costs only 3,500 kyat up to Kinpun, but still requires to change bus in Kyaikto.
• Bago – Famous for the highest pagoda in the world, the Shwemawdaw Pagoda. The bus is 5-10,000 kyat and takes 4-5 hr.
• Yangon – Buses all day, but more in the morning. 6 hr, 5,000 kyat.
• Myawaddy – At the Thai border, is a common destination for travelers leaving Myanmar for Mae Sot or Bangkok. Shared taxis are 10,000 kyat and buses 5,000 kyat. Many departures are in the morning.

[[Mawlamyine]] – Famous for the biggest reclining Buddha statue of Myanmar, and it is the 3rd biggest city of Myanmar. The bus (no air-con) is about 2 hr, 1,000 kyat and starts northwest of the Clock Tower.. Or 3 hr by boat at 8AM for 8,000 kyat per person or 70,000 kyat charter; ask at your guesthouse.

[[Kyaiktiyo]] – Famous for the Golden Rock. Most buses stop only at Kyaikto from where you have to take further transportation (pick-up) to get to Kinpun ("base camp"), from where the regular and pricey rollercoaster trucks go up to Kyaiktiyo with the Golden Rock. Most of the (budget) hotels are located at Kinpun. There are some direct buses to Kinpun, just ask for it. Bus with air-con is about 4 hr for 5-7,000 kyat.

• A "direct" pick-up van to Kinpun leaves around 7AM from the Main road northwest of the Clock Tower. Costs only 3,500 kyat up to Kinpun, but still requires to change bus in Kyaikto.