Inuvik

Inuvik is a town in Canada's Northwest Territories at the inland end of the McKenzie Delta and the northern end of the Dempster Highway, almost 200 km (120 miles) north of the Arctic Circle. With around 3,400 permanent residents as of the last census, it is the most populous town in the Canadian Arctic.

In contrast to other settlements in the North American Arctic, Inuvik strikes the visitor as a permanent settlement rather than an outpost in hostile terrain. Its streets are not only named but paved. Along them are permanent buildings that look like houses rather than glorified trailers, churches (and even a mosque!) parks with ballfields and playgrounds, bank branches, a town hall complex, hospital and even a Royal Canadian Legion hall. And it's surrounded by taiga and swamps rather than unbroken tundra. You could be forgiven for thinking it's almost anywhere else in Northern Canada ... that is, until you think about how much the buildings seem to be designed to retain heat. And then you might look closely, and notice the long metallic tunnels running aboveground between buildings—something you don't see many other places in Canada. Only then will you remember that Inuvik is, yes, 200 km north of the Arctic Circle. Its history is built on this seeming contradiction: a town with a name in an aboriginal language that was established by the Canadian government in the late 20th century. Aklavik, to the west, had been the local administrative centre where the federal and territorial governments had offices and served residents since the beginning of the century. But due to its location in the centre of the Mackenzie River Delta, the world's 12th-largest, it was subject to frequent floods, and after a few close calls the governments realized there was a good chance of the next one washing away not only the town but the land it was on. There was also no land left for necessary expansion.

So, surveyors looked for better sites for towns in the area, and eventually a high patch on the river's East Channel, first known as East Three, was chosen. Human habitation had not been unknown there—Alexander MacKenzie stayed there in 1789 before exploring the river that took his name. But, despite its desirability, no First Nations had settled there, as it was disputed ground between the Inuit peoples of the northern coast and the Dene further inland to the south. East Three was perfect. It had both river access and a clean water supply. There was ample access to wood (due to the river delta's moderating impact on the climate, the tree line is further north here than elsewhere in the North American Arctic) and gravel to pad buildings and roads so the permafrost 2 m (6 ft) below the ground would not melt. The land was high enough to keep most of the community above any floodwaters, and yet flat enough to allow for the construction of an airport nearby large enough to handle commercial traffic. In 1954 it was chosen as the new townsite, and construction began.

At first it was simply, and honestly, called New Aklavik. But that led to confusion in addressing and delivering mail, so to make Canada Post's life easier, in four years it was renamed Inuvik, meaning "place of people" in Inuvialuktun, the local dialect of the Inuit language Inuktitut. While at first it would have been more accurately described as "place of government buildings and construction sites", by 1960 most of the population of Aklavik had relocated (A small group of holdouts remain in the former settlement to this day, preferring to live in the town where their families grew up). Prime Minister John Diefenbaker came up to speak at the town's formal opening ceremonies the next year.

There were a lot of reasons to live in Inuvik then. With the Cold War in high gear, the Canadian and American militaries maintained a number of Distant Early Warning Line radar stations in the area (as elsewhere in the Arctic), forever scanning the polar airspace for any incoming Soviet missiles or aircraft. In the private sector, the discovery of oil reserves in the North Slope area brought people employed in that industry to town. By 1970 it had become a full town with its own elected mayor and council, the first incorporated municipality in the Canadian Arctic.

At first they had to get there by plane or, less frequently, boat. To serve the growing community, the government built the Dempster Highway, with Inuvik at one end and the other at the Klondike Highway near Dawson City in the Yukon. It was finished in 1979 and opened to traffic that same year, the only all-weather road in Canada to cross the Arctic Circle, connecting Inuvik to Canada's highway network just as the U.S. had similarly built the Dalton Highway to the oilfields on Alaska's North Slope (A winter-only ice road allows truckers to get to Tuktoyaktuk at that time of year; it is soon to be replaced by an extension of the Dempster in that direction).

Later that decade, however, the boom times ended. The military post north of town was gradually closed from 1986 to 1990 as the Soviet Union's collapse became more and more inevitable, and the threat of nuclear attack from that direction both less likely and more efficiently detected with newer technologies that did not require so many radar stations. Today only the empty site remains, along with the name of the unpaved thoroughfare leading to it north of town: Navy Road.

Oil exploration also fell on hard times around 1990. Prices per barrel fell considerably, making it much less profitable to drill in the hostile northern environment. Governments reacted by reducing or eliminating subsidies, no longer worried about their economies being at the mercy of Saudi sheikhs. And local activists led opposition on environmental and tribal grounds to further drilling. People who had come for military or business reasons left; the town's population declined from its high above 4,000 to its current level by the mid-1990s. The governments—federal, territorial and local—have remained as major employers, and hunting and trapping in the surrounding taiga and tundra sustained a few as well. Today Inuvik is reinventing itself. Oil may not be viable, but gas is, and interest is picking up. Satellite companies have found Inuvik, with its relative lack of radio interference, an excellent location for regular downloads of orbitally collected data, and that business is expected to pick up when broadband connections to Inuvik are improved. Ecotourism is also making itself felt, as visitors come to experience the Arctic either from the relatively comfortable and familiar confines of the town itself, or being flown to nearby wildernesses such as the Vuntut/Ivavvik/Herschel Island parks in northwestern Yukon or even Aulavik National Park 500 km to the north on Banks Island. Inuvik has also become a cultural destination, with the Great Northern Arts Festival bringing indigenous artists from all over the northern regions of North America every July under the town's midnight sun.

You might have come to Inuvik just because it's the end of the road. Or you may be on the way to somewhere else even more remote. But either way take a little time to take in this Arctic town with its colourful houses connected by silvery "utilidors" carrying the gas and electric lines away from the permafrost. When the sun stays out all day, it's easier to find that there's more there than meets the eye.

• Our Lady Of Victory Church, 178 Mackenzie Road (E corner of Mackenzie and Kingmingya Rds intersection downtown, +1 867-777-2236. Probably Inuvik's best-known building, there are reasons to check out this prominent downtown landmark even if you aren't a devout Catholic celebrating Mass away from home. This distinctive circular domed church, with its exterior painted to look like an igloo, was built in 1960, making it one of the oldest buildings in town. Inside it features artwork by Inuit artist Mona Thrasher.
• Midnight Sun Mosque, 29 Wolverine Road (S side of bend in road 150 m E of Navy Road, +1 867-678-0733. North America's northernmost mosque. Not too distinctive architecturally, except for the (purely functional) minaret

• Inuvik Sunrise Festival. The annual Sunrise Festival happens in January, usually around the time Inuvik's month-long polar night ends with a 15-minute day as the sun breaks over the mountains to the south. (In 2019, it will happen on January 4-6.) The event combines various native traditions with modern ones, such as the fireworks that can't be displayed at Canada Day celebrations due to the midnight sun. Every year it keeps getting bigger.
• Great Northern Arts Festival. Has been held annually for 10 days in the middle of July, around the end of the midnight-sun period. Participating artists come from across the north, as far way as Newfoundland, and even some from Alaska; while artists and art lovers come from all over the world to appreciate their work. Everyone one with the northern spirit is welcome to have bannock and caribou stew and see the best of the best in Arctic art. Some artists are even creating their pieces on site, so you can see first hand how to turn a stone into a magnificent figure of polar bears, walrus or Inuit faces.

Inuvik Sunrise Festival. The annual Sunrise Festival happens in January, usually around the time Inuvik's month-long polar night ends with a 15-minute day as the sun breaks over the mountains to the south. (In 2019, it will happen on January 4-6.) The event combines various native traditions with modern ones, such as the fireworks that can't be displayed at Canada Day celebrations due to the midnight sun. Every year it keeps getting bigger.

Great Northern Arts Festival. Has been held annually for 10 days in the middle of July, around the end of the midnight-sun period. Participating artists come from across the north, as far way as Newfoundland, and even some from Alaska; while artists and art lovers come from all over the world to appreciate their work. Everyone one with the northern spirit is welcome to have bannock and caribou stew and see the best of the best in Arctic art. Some artists are even creating their pieces on site, so you can see first hand how to turn a stone into a magnificent figure of polar bears, walrus or Inuit faces.

Our Lady Of Victory Church, 178 Mackenzie Road (E corner of Mackenzie and Kingmingya Rds intersection downtown, +1 867-777-2236. Probably Inuvik's best-known building, there are reasons to check out this prominent downtown landmark even if you aren't a devout Catholic celebrating Mass away from home. This distinctive circular domed church, with its exterior painted to look like an igloo, was built in 1960, making it one of the oldest buildings in town. Inside it features artwork by Inuit artist Mona Thrasher.

Midnight Sun Mosque, 29 Wolverine Road (S side of bend in road 150 m E of Navy Road, +1 867-678-0733. North America's northernmost mosque. Not too distinctive architecturally, except for the (purely functional) minaret

Inuvik is a great place for those with an adventurous spirit. It is one of the last places on Earth that can feel very much untouched by humans, and the sense of being top of the world is impossible to avoid.

The local people are very friendly and quite willing to show those curious enough to ask how they still, in the 21st century, live off the land in some of the harshest conditions on the planet.

One can explore for thousands of miles in any direction by snowmobile, boat or ATV. Just be sure to have a guide go with you who is familiar with the land, as Inuvik is a very isolated town,and you want to make sure you get back. Also ensure you have sufficient supplies for your adventure, as there is nothing outside of the town to provide you with gas, food (apart from hunting), or a warm dry bed.

Or stay in town. The local people are trying very hard to preserve their culture, and tourists showing a genuine interest will help support their goals. From soap stone carvings to stunning beadwork, even watercolour paintings by local artists will dazzle the senses and be sure to provide you with a unique experience.

• Midnight Sun Recreation Complex, 95 Gwich'in Road, +1 867-777-8640. Great swimming pool: lanes, "lazy river," large water slide, volleyball net and basketball net. Also a canteen selling food and drinks, a 85' x 200' arena, 2 squash courts, a children's play zone, fitness centre, a community hall and meeting rooms, and a 4 sheet curling rink and lounge.

Midnight Sun Recreation Complex, 95 Gwich'in Road, +1 867-777-8640. Great swimming pool: lanes, "lazy river," large water slide, volleyball net and basketball net. Also a canteen selling food and drinks, a 85' x 200' arena, 2 squash courts, a children's play zone, fitness centre, a community hall and meeting rooms, and a 4 sheet curling rink and lounge.

• The Corner Store, 15 Dolphin Street (NE corner of Kingmingya Road intersection, +1 867-777-3798. Smaller supermarket alternative to NorthMart
• Inuvialuit Regional Corporation Craft Store, 107 Mackenzie Road (Third floor of large blue and white building 150 m down road from Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2737. Mon-Fri 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m.. Crafts made by local members of the Inuvialuit. All proceeds go to the individual artists.
• Midtown Market, 114 Mackenzie Road (100 m NE of NorthMart along that side of road, +1 867-777-3100. Open 24 hours. Inuvik's only convenience store, open all 24 hours.
• NorthMart, 160 Mackenize Road (Large building across the street from the Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2582. The first and last place you'll go for anything you need—if it's not here, it's probably not available in town. In addition to the medium-size supermarket, there's a drug store and what are probably the northernmost KFC and Pizza Hut outlets in the world. The front section's outdoor section is also a good place to look if you need one last item before going off into the Arctic wilderness.
• Rexall, 125 Mackenzie Road (100 m NE of the Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2266. 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sat, noon-5 p.m. Sun. Local branch of nationwide drugstore chain is probably the best place to go for your needs in that area.

The Corner Store, 15 Dolphin Street (NE corner of Kingmingya Road intersection, +1 867-777-3798. Smaller supermarket alternative to NorthMart

Inuvialuit Regional Corporation Craft Store, 107 Mackenzie Road (Third floor of large blue and white building 150 m down road from Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2737. Mon-Fri 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m.. Crafts made by local members of the Inuvialuit. All proceeds go to the individual artists.

Midtown Market, 114 Mackenzie Road (100 m NE of NorthMart along that side of road, +1 867-777-3100. Open 24 hours. Inuvik's only convenience store, open all 24 hours.

NorthMart, 160 Mackenize Road (Large building across the street from the Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2582. The first and last place you'll go for anything you need—if it's not here, it's probably not available in town. In addition to the medium-size supermarket, there's a drug store and what are probably the northernmost KFC and Pizza Hut outlets in the world. The front section's outdoor section is also a good place to look if you need one last item before going off into the Arctic wilderness.

Rexall, 125 Mackenzie Road (100 m NE of the Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2266. 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sat, noon-5 p.m. Sun. Local branch of nationwide drugstore chain is probably the best place to go for your needs in that area.

• Cloud 9 Cafe, 1355 Airport Rd (In the airport, +1 867 777-3541. Great food. Muskox burgers
• The Roost, 106 Mackenzie Road (50 m E of Berger St. on N side of road, +1 867 777-2727. Till midnight daily. The go-to place (in fact, the only place) in Inuvik for popular take-out food like burgers, Chinese or pizza. You can also eat in the backroom if you prefer.
• Tonimoes, 185 Mackenzie Road (1st floor of Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867 777-4900. 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily. This is as fine as dining out in Inuvik gets. Breakfast, brunch and lunch menus are augmented by a dinner menu specializing in surf-and-turf
• Andre's Place, 55 Wolverine Rd, +1 867 777-3177. Wednesday or Friday evening only. Call first. The two evenings a week he is open are reserved fast. Andre is a highly trained and experienced chef. The service is excellent. He features only the best food right in his own home with the two sittings a week, Wednesday and Friday nights. Meals include a starter, a main and a desert. Please remember to bring your own wine and enjoy the only fine dining experience this far north in the Americas. He will cater your small event and has a bed and breakfast.
• Alestine's, 48 Franklin, +1 867 777-3702. Check facebook page or call. Fish and Chips, desserts and views of the delta all served up from a big yellow bus. Bring a sticker from the business or organization to add to the bus.
• Canteen at Midnight Sun, Midnight Sun Recreation Complex. Drop by for a meal from the same folks who run the Cloud 9 Cafe at the Airport.

Cloud 9 Cafe, 1355 Airport Rd (In the airport, +1 867 777-3541. Great food. Muskox burgers

The Roost, 106 Mackenzie Road (50 m E of Berger St. on N side of road, +1 867 777-2727. Till midnight daily. The go-to place (in fact, the only place) in Inuvik for popular take-out food like burgers, Chinese or pizza. You can also eat in the backroom if you prefer.

Tonimoes, 185 Mackenzie Road (1st floor of Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867 777-4900. 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily. This is as fine as dining out in Inuvik gets. Breakfast, brunch and lunch menus are augmented by a dinner menu specializing in surf-and-turf

Andre's Place, 55 Wolverine Rd, +1 867 777-3177. Wednesday or Friday evening only. Call first. The two evenings a week he is open are reserved fast. Andre is a highly trained and experienced chef. The service is excellent. He features only the best food right in his own home with the two sittings a week, Wednesday and Friday nights. Meals include a starter, a main and a desert. Please remember to bring your own wine and enjoy the only fine dining experience this far north in the Americas. He will cater your small event and has a bed and breakfast.

Alestine's, 48 Franklin, +1 867 777-3702. Check facebook page or call. Fish and Chips, desserts and views of the delta all served up from a big yellow bus. Bring a sticker from the business or organization to add to the bus.

Canteen at Midnight Sun, Midnight Sun Recreation Complex. Drop by for a meal from the same folks who run the Cloud 9 Cafe at the Airport.

• Mad Trapper Pool Hall, 124 Mackenzie Road (Across from Rexall, next to the Midtown Market, +1 867-777-3825. Once upon a time the Trapper had a house band or two and a packed dance floor on Friday nights. Now it's a pool hall, although like most such establishments the game is often a pretext for downing pitcher upon pitcher of beer, especially if you don't know the right end of a cue from the wrong one. Still retains a dive-bar flavour.
• Shivers, 185 Mackenzie Road (First floor of Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2861. The MacKenzie's bar is, as you'd expect from the rest of the joint, a tonier alternative, perfect for retiring to after a meal across the hall. Tuesdays are Scotch Night, a popular draw with a selection of high-end product served.
• The Royal Canadian Legion 220: McInnes Branch., 118 Vetrans Way, +1 867 777-2300. Come by the legion in the evenings for drinks, and community. Note the legion is open limited hours and is a membership based organization but everyone is welcome. To commemorate Remembrance Day each November 11th the legion serves its legendary moose milk.

Mad Trapper Pool Hall, 124 Mackenzie Road (Across from Rexall, next to the Midtown Market, +1 867-777-3825. Once upon a time the Trapper had a house band or two and a packed dance floor on Friday nights. Now it's a pool hall, although like most such establishments the game is often a pretext for downing pitcher upon pitcher of beer, especially if you don't know the right end of a cue from the wrong one. Still retains a dive-bar flavour.

Shivers, 185 Mackenzie Road (First floor of Mackenzie Hotel, +1 867-777-2861. The MacKenzie's bar is, as you'd expect from the rest of the joint, a tonier alternative, perfect for retiring to after a meal across the hall. Tuesdays are Scotch Night, a popular draw with a selection of high-end product served.

The Royal Canadian Legion 220: McInnes Branch., 118 Vetrans Way, +1 867 777-2300. Come by the legion in the evenings for drinks, and community. Note the legion is open limited hours and is a membership based organization but everyone is welcome. To commemorate Remembrance Day each November 11th the legion serves its legendary moose milk.

Internet service to Inuvik, like most of the Canadian Far North, is constrained by limited capacity. Hotels and any other providers of free Wi-Fi will often request that you limit your use to basic email and web browsing, avoiding Skype, streaming services, and online games that could slow down the throughput for everyone. You may also have shorter than usual time limits at their business centres.

This may be allayed in the future. The Canadian government elected in 2015 has promised to increase broadband capacity to the entire Arctic. Inuvik in particular may be first in line for these improvements due to its increasing popularity with satellite companies as a downloading point.

The 138km-long gravel Inuvik–Tuktoyaktuk Highway (which does not have a shield or other graphic symbol) runs north to Tuktoyaktuk. The 736km-long Dempster Highway (Highway 8) runs south to Tsiigehtchic, Fort McPherson, Eagle Plains (Yukon), and finally ends at the Klondike Highway 41km from Dawson City.