Isle of Bute

The Isle of Bute (Scottish Gaelic: Eilean Bhòid or An t-Eilean Bhòdach) is an island in the Firth of Clyde, off the west coast of Scotland. Administratively it's part of Argyll and Bute in the Scottish Highlands. Indeed the Highland fault line runs through it, from the bay and main town of Rothesay halfway down its east coast, through freshwater Loch Fad and Loch Quien to Scalpsie Bay on the south coast. So most of the island, west of this line, is geologically Highland, but it's of no great height, and Bute is lowland in nature. For visitor purposes it's part of the "Costa Clyde" or "Glasgow Riviera", the string of little resorts stretching down the Clyde coast from Gourock through Ayr to Girvan. With only a short ferry crossing from Wemyss Bay on the mainland, it's popular with day trippers from Glasgow and never feels "away from it all".

• Rothesay Castle, Castle Hill, Rothesay PA20 0DA, +44 1700 502691. Apr-Sept daily 09:30-17:30; Oct-Mar Sa-W 10:00-16:00. A "compound" castle, unusual for Scotland, first built in Norman times. It has a circular curtain wall: four towers were later added, of which only the "Pigeon Tower" survives. It was well smashed up by Cromwell, and then again during the Monmouth Rebellion. From the 19th C the Marquesses of Bute made considerable efforts to restore it - or at least to their spec for what the Middle Ages ought to have looked like. Adult £5.
• Bute Museum, 7 Stuart St Rothesay PA20 0EP (just south of castle, +44 1700 505067. Apr-Sept M-Sa 10:30-15:30, Su 13:30-15:30; Oct Nov, Feb Mar: Tu-Th, Sa 13:30-15:30. Just two rooms, but packed with exhibits of local history thru the ages. £4.
• Ascog Hall Fernery, Ascog Hall, Ascog PA20 9EU (4 miles south of Rothesay on coast, bus 90, 490 & 493, +44 1700 504555. Apr-Oct daily 10:00-17:00. This Victorian fernery was forgotten about, then rediscovered in 1997 and rehabilitated. One fern had survived from the original collection and is thought to be over 1000 years old. Adult £5.
• Mount Stuart House, Kerrycroy PA20 9LR (6 miles south of Rothesay on coast, bus 90, 490 & 493, +44 1700 503877. Mid-March-mid-Dec: Su-F 11:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-14:30. A flamboyant Victorian Gothic House set in parkland planted with species from all over the world. The Crichton-Stuarts held extensive lands in Wales and elsewhere, and became even richer from developing industry around Cardiff. The 19th C 3rd Marquess wanted to recreate the Middle Ages to his own specifications, and restored Cardiff Castle and nearby Castle Coch. Mount Stuart was his next project. It's built in warm red sandstone, with a notable marble hall and chapel, and richly decorated. In 2016 a Shakespeare First folio was discovered in the library. Adult £13.
• St Blane's Church. is an extensive ruin, mostly Norman. A monastery stood here 6th to 7th C but only scraps of this remain. After the Reformation of 1560 the priest refused either to become protestant or to leave the church and manse. The authorities left him alone here in an almighty sulk while the place fell to rack and ruin around him. By Kilchattan follow Plan Road south past the airfield; park up at the road end and walk along the track.
• Seals often haul out at Scalpsie Bay on the south coast. The little island one mile west is Inchmarnock. It has sea caves and a Bronze Age burial cist, and in the 7th C was home to the monk for whom Kilmarnock is named. The island is private farmland but boat trips sometimes land by permission.
• The Kyles of Bute are the narrow straits that separate the northern end of Bute from the Cowal Pensinsula. They're a designated National Scenic Area. You can see their eastern arm from the coast road to Rhubodach ferry pier. The western arm can be seen from Ettrick Bay Beach., reached by B878 from Rothesay.

Rothesay Castle, Castle Hill, Rothesay PA20 0DA, +44 1700 502691. Apr-Sept daily 09:30-17:30; Oct-Mar Sa-W 10:00-16:00. A "compound" castle, unusual for Scotland, first built in Norman times. It has a circular curtain wall: four towers were later added, of which only the "Pigeon Tower" survives. It was well smashed up by Cromwell, and then again during the Monmouth Rebellion. From the 19th C the Marquesses of Bute made considerable efforts to restore it - or at least to their spec for what the Middle Ages ought to have looked like. Adult £5.

Bute Museum, 7 Stuart St Rothesay PA20 0EP (just south of castle, +44 1700 505067. Apr-Sept M-Sa 10:30-15:30, Su 13:30-15:30; Oct Nov, Feb Mar: Tu-Th, Sa 13:30-15:30. Just two rooms, but packed with exhibits of local history thru the ages. £4.

Ascog Hall Fernery, Ascog Hall, Ascog PA20 9EU (4 miles south of Rothesay on coast, bus 90, 490 & 493, +44 1700 504555. Apr-Oct daily 10:00-17:00. This Victorian fernery was forgotten about, then rediscovered in 1997 and rehabilitated. One fern had survived from the original collection and is thought to be over 1000 years old. Adult £5.

Mount Stuart House, Kerrycroy PA20 9LR (6 miles south of Rothesay on coast, bus 90, 490 & 493, +44 1700 503877. Mid-March-mid-Dec: Su-F 11:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-14:30. A flamboyant Victorian Gothic House set in parkland planted with species from all over the world. The Crichton-Stuarts held extensive lands in Wales and elsewhere, and became even richer from developing industry around Cardiff. The 19th C 3rd Marquess wanted to recreate the Middle Ages to his own specifications, and restored Cardiff Castle and nearby Castle Coch. Mount Stuart was his next project. It's built in warm red sandstone, with a notable marble hall and chapel, and richly decorated. In 2016 a Shakespeare First folio was discovered in the library. Adult £13.

St Blane's Church. is an extensive ruin, mostly Norman. A monastery stood here 6th to 7th C but only scraps of this remain. After the Reformation of 1560 the priest refused either to become protestant or to leave the church and manse. The authorities left him alone here in an almighty sulk while the place fell to rack and ruin around him. By Kilchattan follow Plan Road south past the airfield; park up at the road end and walk along the track.

Seals often haul out at Scalpsie Bay on the south coast. The little island one mile west is Inchmarnock. It has sea caves and a Bronze Age burial cist, and in the 7th C was home to the monk for whom Kilmarnock is named. The island is private farmland but boat trips sometimes land by permission.

The Kyles of Bute are the narrow straits that separate the northern end of Bute from the Cowal Pensinsula. They're a designated [[United Kingdom National Parks#National Scenic Areas|National Scenic Area]]. You can see their eastern arm from the coast road to Rhubodach ferry pier. The western arm can be seen from Ettrick Bay Beach., reached by B878 from Rothesay.

• Victorian Gents Lavatories, Ferry terminal, Rothesay, +44 1700 505146. M-Th 08:00-17:45, F-Su 08:00-19:30. Magnificent shrine to Victorian ablutions, but only the gents, and for some reason there isn't a viewing gallery so you come here to "do" not "see". The ladies' is modern and functional. "Separate spheres" and all that . . . 40 pence.
• Rothesay Leisure Centre, 96 High Street, Rothesay PA20 9BN. M-F 07:00-20:00, Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 10:00-15:00. For those rainy days. 25 m pool, gym and sauna open daily. Fitness classes rotate between here, the college campus and Moat community centre.
• Port Bannatyne Marina and Boatyard, Kames Bay, Port Bannatyne PA20 0LT (just west of Port B village, +44 1700 503116 (for berthing). Accessible 24 hours at all tides, dredged to -2.4 m; office 09:00-17:00. Modern marina with permanent berthing, repairs and storing for all craft. During World War II the bay here was a base for midget submarines ("x-craft").
• Port Bannatyne Petanque Club, Recreation Ground, Marine Rd Port Bannatyne PA20 0LT (Opposite Port B Marina. May-Sept. Boules and measures may be hired from the Post Office, or the Anchor Tavern.
• Port Bannatyne Golf Club, Mains Road, Port Bannatyne PA20 0PH, +44 1700 504270. An oddity, a 13 hole course: you play 12, then the first 5 again, then the 18th. Club house, great views, friendly club, kit for hire.
• Loch Fad Fishing, Loch Fad, (To Loch Fad by Barone Rd B878 then left onto track; to Loch Quien go south via High St / B881 for 3 miles, +44 1700 504871. The deep loch is stocked with trout, and pike, perch and roach may also be fished. Rowing boats and rods for hire. In summer 2018 Bluebird K7, the restored speedboat of Donald Campbell (1921-1967), undertook trials here. Loch Fad Day ticket (5 fish) £25; Loch Quien (catch & release) £14.
• The West Island Way is a long-distance footpath that traverses Bute, 32 miles in all. It's all easy going, pick your own itinerary, but the suggested stages are: Day 1 circuit of Kilchattan Bay, 5 miles; Day 2 Kilchattan to Port Bannatyne, 11.5 miles; Day 3 Port Bannatyne to Rhubodach 8.5 miles; Day 4 back to Port Bannatyne.
• ButeFest is a music festival in late July. The next is Fri 24 - Sun 26 July 2020.

Victorian Gents Lavatories, Ferry terminal, Rothesay, +44 1700 505146. M-Th 08:00-17:45, F-Su 08:00-19:30. Magnificent shrine to Victorian ablutions, but only the gents, and for some reason there isn't a viewing gallery so you come here to "do" not "see". The ladies' is modern and functional. "Separate spheres" and all that . . . 40 pence.

Rothesay Leisure Centre, 96 High Street, Rothesay PA20 9BN. M-F 07:00-20:00, Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 10:00-15:00. For those rainy days. 25 m pool, gym and sauna open daily. Fitness classes rotate between here, the college campus and Moat community centre.

Port Bannatyne Marina and Boatyard, Kames Bay, Port Bannatyne PA20 0LT (just west of Port B village, +44 1700 503116 (for berthing). Accessible 24 hours at all tides, dredged to -2.4 m; office 09:00-17:00. Modern marina with permanent berthing, repairs and storing for all craft. During World War II the bay here was a base for midget submarines ("x-craft").

Port Bannatyne Petanque Club, Recreation Ground, Marine Rd Port Bannatyne PA20 0LT (Opposite Port B Marina. May-Sept. Boules and measures may be hired from the Post Office, or the Anchor Tavern.

Port Bannatyne Golf Club, Mains Road, Port Bannatyne PA20 0PH, +44 1700 504270. An oddity, a 13 hole course: you play 12, then the first 5 again, then the 18th. Club house, great views, friendly club, kit for hire.

Loch Fad Fishing, Loch Fad, (To Loch Fad by Barone Rd B878 then left onto track; to Loch Quien go south via High St / B881 for 3 miles, +44 1700 504871. The deep loch is stocked with trout, and pike, perch and roach may also be fished. Rowing boats and rods for hire. In summer 2018 Bluebird K7, the restored speedboat of Donald Campbell (1921-1967), undertook trials here. Loch Fad Day ticket (5 fish) £25; Loch Quien (catch & release) £14.

ButeFest is a music festival in late July. The next is Fri 24 - Sun 26 July 2020.

• The Co-op is on Bridge Street 100 yards west of Rothesay ferry terminal. It's open daily 07:00-22:00.
• Macqueen's is a butcher selling hand-made gourmet sausages, haggis and black pudding. They're at 1 Bishop St, Rothesay near the harbour, open M-Sa 09:00-18:00, W to 12:30.

The Co-op is on Bridge Street 100 yards west of Rothesay ferry terminal. It's open daily 07:00-22:00.

Macqueen's is a butcher selling hand-made gourmet sausages, haggis and black pudding. They're at 1 Bishop St, Rothesay near the harbour, open M-Sa 09:00-18:00, W to 12:30.

• Zavaronis Cafe, 20 Argyle St., Rothesay, +44 1700 502928. The Zavaroni family run two cafes and a fish and chip shop on the island. They're not really possible to miss. The chip shop is next to the Co-Op on East Princes Street, the other two cafes, serving made on site ice cream, drinks, snacks and light meals, are on the seafront.
• Rayan is an East Med takeaway at 16 Gallowgate, Rothesay, 200 yards west of the ferry pier. It's open Tu-Su 11:30-20:00.
• The famous Russian Tavern in Port Bannatyne has closed.

Zavaronis Cafe, 20 Argyle St., Rothesay, +44 1700 502928. The Zavaroni family run two cafes and a fish and chip shop on the island. They're not really possible to miss. The chip shop is next to the Co-Op on East Princes Street, the other two cafes, serving made on site ice cream, drinks, snacks and light meals, are on the seafront.

Rayan is an East Med takeaway at 16 Gallowgate, Rothesay, 200 yards west of the ferry pier. It's open Tu-Su 11:30-20:00.

The obvious route is back to the mainland via Rothesay and Wemyss Bay, when Glasgow and the whole of lowland / central Scotland lie before you. This is also the best route to the Isle of Arran, by ferry from Ardrossan.

From the short ferry crossing of Rhubodach-Colintraive, either go north to Loch Long, Inveraray and Loch Lomond, or loop south again to Portvadie, for ferries to Tarbert on Argyll. From there the main road leads to Campbeltown on the Mull of Kintyre. Dotted along the way are ferry ports for Islay (thence Jura), Gigha, and a back route into Arran.