Isle of Jura

United_Kingdom

Craighouse from the pier

Jura (Gaelic Diùra) is an island in the Inner Hebrides, off the west coast of Scotland. It's 30 miles long by 7 miles wide, sparsely populated, with poor boggy soil, and three conical mountains known as the Paps of Jura. At its closest it's only 5 miles from the mainland, yet feels remote, with bleak terrain and lack of direct transport links. Most visitors come here as part of a trip to nearby Islay.

Jura has 7000 red deer, and its name probably derives from Old Norse Dyrøy, "deer island". Much of the land is used for deer-stalking, and during the season (Aug-Oct) it may be unsafe or prohibited to enter these areas.

The main access point is at Feolin on the southwest coast, where the ferry arrives from Islay. From here a narrow lane, grandly designated the A846, winds south then east over the hills to Craighouse. This tiny settlement is Jura's metropolis, with the only shop, hotel and pub on the island, and the only two places to eat out. The Jura whisky distillery is also here. The entire south part of the island is designated as a National Scenic Area, notable for bird life, and its seas are similarly protected. The Paps - ie breasts - rear up just west, though from this close they look like what they are - bleak pyramids of scree surrounded by bog. The classic views of them are from some miles away on the mainland or Islay, perhaps louring with cloud or set against a golden sky as the sun westers behind them.

The west coast of Jura is uninhabited but is notable for a number of raised beaches. The residents, all 200 of them, live along the more sheltered east coast, and from Craighouse the A846 continues north through Lagg, Tarbet and Ardlussa. Here the road forks: go right (south) to Inverlussa, where it is possible to wild camp. The left fork runs north for 3 miles to the end of the public highway. A private track (permission and 4X4 essential) continues from there to the north of the island. This track passes Barnhill, where George Orwell (Eric Blair 1903-1950) lived towards the end of his life, seriously ill with tuberculosis, and wrote his dystopian classic Nineteen Eighty-Four. A footpath to the island's north tip gives views of the Corryvreckan whirlpool.

Jura whisky distillery

  • Jura Distillery, Craighouse PA60 7XT, +44 1496 820385. Scotch whisky distillery, smaller than those on Islay, and with a distinctive flavour. The standard tour is at 11:00 and 14:00, M-F year round plus Saturday Apr-Oct, book in advance. No tours during the annual summer maintenance shutdown mid-July to mid-Aug, and limited opening during the Islay Festival late May and Jura Festival late Sept. Standard tour £6.
  • Lussa Gin Distillery. is a micro-distillery near the end of the road 25 miles north of Craighouse. Tours M-F 11:30 & 14:30 must be booked in advance on +44 1496 820196 or email tours@lussagin.com.
  • Jura House walled gardens, along the road between the ferry and Craighouse, closed in 2011 and there are no plans to re-open them.

Jura Distillery, Craighouse PA60 7XT, +44 1496 820385. Scotch whisky distillery, smaller than those on Islay, and with a distinctive flavour. The standard tour is at 11:00 and 14:00, M-F year round plus Saturday Apr-Oct, book in advance. No tours during the annual summer maintenance shutdown mid-July to mid-Aug, and limited opening during the Islay Festival late May and Jura Festival late Sept. Standard tour £6.

Lussa Gin Distillery. is a micro-distillery near the end of the road 25 miles north of Craighouse. Tours M-F 11:30 & 14:30 must be booked in advance on +44 1496 820196 or email tours@lussagin.com.

  • Walk: the island's trails come in all grades. Easy hikes taking an hour or so are at Craighouse, the bay near Feolin Ferry, Corran Sands, and coast-to-coast at Tarbert. The classic hike is the Paps of Jura, a 10-hour, 10-mile slog through bog and scree to reach all three peaks. The highest Beinn an Òir is 785 metres (2575 ft), so it ranks as a Corbett. Another hike, from the road's north end at Ardlussa, follows a track to Barnhill then a rough boggy path to the view over Corryvreckan - and you'll hear its roar when the tide's running.
  • The island fell race is held annually in late May. The course record for this 28-km, 7-summit, slog-in-a-bog is just over 3 hours. The next race is on Sa 25 May 2019, starting from Craighouse at 10:30.
  • Go to a ceilidh or other live entertainment in Craighouse village hall: check local listings.
  • Jura Music Festival is held in Craighouse on the last weekend of September, 3 days of traditional music and dance. The next event is 27-29 Sep 2019.

Walk: the island's trails come in all grades. Easy hikes taking an hour or so are at Craighouse, the bay near Feolin Ferry, Corran Sands, and coast-to-coast at Tarbert. The classic hike is the Paps of Jura, a 10-hour, 10-mile slog through bog and scree to reach all three peaks. The highest Beinn an Òir is 785 metres (2575 ft), so it ranks as a Corbett. Another hike, from the road's north end at Ardlussa, follows a track to Barnhill then a rough boggy path to the view over Corryvreckan - and you'll hear its roar when the tide's running.

Go to a ceilidh or other live entertainment in Craighouse village hall: check local listings.

Jura Music Festival is held in Craighouse on the last weekend of September, 3 days of traditional music and dance. The next event is 27-29 Sep 2019.

  • Spar supermarket in Craighouse is open M-Sa 09:00-21:00 & Su 09:00-17:00.
  • Jura Community Shop (+44 1496 820231) in Craighouse takes orders and can deliver. It's also the Post Office, and is open M-Sa 09:00-17:00.

Spar supermarket in Craighouse is open M-Sa 09:00-21:00 & Su 09:00-17:00.

Jura Community Shop (+44 1496 820231) in Craighouse takes orders and can deliver. It's also the Post Office, and is open M-Sa 09:00-17:00.

  • The Antlers Bistro, Craighouse (Above the shop and Jura Hall, +44 1496 820123. Daily 10:00-16:00. Bistro restaurant offering tea, coffee, home baking and freshly produced, locally sourced food, like venison. Great decked area to watch the world go but while having lunch. Also sells local crafts, and has a local heritage display in the entrance delving into the history and customs of Jura.
  • Jura Hotel (see "Sleep") is open daily for lunch 12:00-14:00, dinner 18:00-20:30, but Nov-Mar dinner only by reservation.

The Antlers Bistro, Craighouse (Above the shop and Jura Hall, +44 1496 820123. Daily 10:00-16:00. Bistro restaurant offering tea, coffee, home baking and freshly produced, locally sourced food, like venison. Great decked area to watch the world go but while having lunch. Also sells local crafts, and has a local heritage display in the entrance delving into the history and customs of Jura.

Jura Hotel (see "Sleep") is open daily for lunch 12:00-14:00, dinner 18:00-20:30, but Nov-Mar dinner only by reservation.

  • Jura Hotel (see Sleep section)

Jura Hotel (see Sleep section)

  • Back to Islay is the usual route.
  • On Wednesdays & Saturdays you can immediately sail on from Port Askaig to Colonsay, and in summer a day trip there is possible.