Kabul

Kabul has been the capital of Afghanistan since about 1776. The city was badly damaged during the various 1979–2001 wars, particularly its western parts. For a few years, Kabul has been going through a period of reconstruction and development, with some modern style tower blocks and a handful of glitzy shopping malls appearing over the last few years. Many roads, particularly the main feeder routes have been reconstructed and upgraded. However, in outlying areas roads and other infrastructure remain in poor condition. Electricity supplies in Kabul are now quite reliable.

The city is believed to have been founded between 2000-1500 BCE. It is mentioned in Hinduism's sacred Rigveda text (c1700-1100 BCE) as a vision of paradise set in the mountains. It was an important center of Zoroastrianism and later Buddhism. The city remained of little importance for much of the first three millennia of its existence. It was controlled variously by: the Persians, Alexander the Great, the Seleucid Empire, the Mauryan Empire, the Bactrians, various Hellenistic kingdoms, the Sassanid Empire, and by the 5th century CE was its own kingdom known as Kabul-Shahan. This last kingdom before the Islamic conquest built a large wall to protect the city from invasion when the Arabs arrived at the edge of the kingdom; parts of the wall have survived to this day and are visible above ground within the city.

In 871 Kabul fell to the Islamic invasion (nearly 200 years after invading Muslims reached modern-day Afghanistan). The Kabulistan empire was formed covering much of Afghanistan and parts of western modern-day Pakistan. The city once again passed uneventfully through the hands of several empires, including the Samanids, Ghaznavids, Ghorids, Timurids, Mughols, Durranis, and the Barakzais, before conquest by the Mongols in the 13th century. The famous Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta visited the city in 1344, noting, "We travelled on to Kabul, formerly a vast town, the site of which is now occupied by a village inhabited by a tribe of Persians called Afghans."

Under the rule of Tamerlane in the 14th century, the city developed into a regional center of trade. In 1504, the city was captured by the Mughal emperor Babur.

In 1747, Kabul came under control of the Durrani (or Afghan) Empire. In 1776, Kabul would become the empire's capital, although the empire soon fell into tribal civil war. In 1839, the region was claimed by the British and Kabul was established as the location of British government and the British Indian Forces. They were very unpopular amongst local tribes who revolted and in 1841. Within a few days, a series of events led to the massacre of all but one of the 16,000 occupying British and Indian civilians and soldiers within miles of Kabul as they attempted to flee to Jalalabad, a famous blunder known as the Massacre of Elphinstone's Army. The British returned in 1878 and 1879, but were both times thousands of them were killed and they were forced to retreat.

In the early 20th century, electricity was introduced to the city and the Darul Aman palace was constructed for the royal family. The 1930s-60s were good times in Kabul. Kabul University was opened; the roads were paved; modern shops, offices, & schools were opened; shopping centers and a cinema were opened; and the Kabul Zoo opened. The city also saw a vibrant tourism industry appear, largely due to the Istanbul-New Delhi "Hippie Trail" which passed through Kabul in the 1960s-70s.

The 1970s-80s brought a turn for the worse. The city saw two coups, in 1973 and 1978. The second coup was carried out by the Marxist PDPA, which a year later invited the Soviet military to maintain their power over the country. From 1979-1989, the Soviet Union maintained military and governmental headquarters in Kabul. After the Soviets left, the government collapsed in 1992 and left local warlords to fight over the city leaving tens of thousands dead and (according to the UN) 90% of the city's buildings destroyed. By 1994, the city was without electricity or water. In 1996, the political movement known as the Taliban captured the city, publicly hanging the former (pre-1992) president and imposing notoriously strict Islamic rule over the country.

A US-led military force invaded Afghanistan in October 2001, bombing strategic installations throughout the city to rout out the governing Taliban, who quickly fled the city. The city was named the capital of the Afghan Transitional Authority and subsequently the capital of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. The city saw many suicide bombings between 2002–2007, but they have become rare since 2008. In late 2008, control of the city's security was passed from the NATO ISAF force to Afghan National Police and the Afghan National Army. Since 2001, billions of dollars in aid and foreign investment have been used to improve the city. Most of the major roads have been paved and improved, government building have been extensively renovated, new hotels and shopping malls have opened, the zoo and many museums have reopened, and utilities have been extensively reconstructed.

Kabul's climate is greatly influenced by its location in a valley at 1,800m (5,900ft). Summers (Jun-Sep) are hot and dry, averaging from the high 20s to the mid-30s °C (80-95°F) with next to no precipitation. Autumn (Oct-Nov) is temperate and sees very little precipitation. Winters (Dec-Mar) are cold and the time of year which sees the most precipitation (mostly snow, but also ice, freezing rain, and sleet on warmer days). January is the coldest month, averaging 4/-7 °C (39/19°F). Spring (late Mar-early June) is temperate with rain tapering off by early May.

The city lies in a valley and some villages on the edge of the city are a few hundred meters higher and thus cooler in the summer and colder and snowier in the winters. Many roads leading to/from the city are regularly blocked by high snowfall in winter, the most notorious is the highway north, through the Salang Pass. The main highways are cleared reasonably quickly.

The city of Kabul is divided into 18 sectors, with each sector consisting of a handful of adjacent neighborhoods.

• Bagh-e Babur. The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor Babur. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in Agra, and later moved to this spot. Historically, the gardens have been visited by Afghans for picnics and lazy afternoons. There is a swimming pool, a small mosque for prayers and a small museum among other things. AFN10 for locals, AFN250 for foreigners.
• Bagh-e Bala. Built in the late 19th century, it served as a summer palace for Amir Abdur Rahman. Today, much of the original interior has been preserved, and the area around the palace has become a large park.
• Bagh-e Zanana. A park and market for females only but includes male and female children. It was designed as a place where women could sell their own products and merchandise directly, which cannot be done in areas where men do business, because women in Afghanistan are not supposed to deal directly with men who are not relatives. This park was created as an outlet for these women to sell their goods with respect to their culture. There is also a female run restaurant. The park is also a nice place for female travellers to enjoy the outdoors. Entrance fee AFN50.
• British Cemetery. Where foreigners are buried in Kabul. There are also memorial plaques commemorating those ISAF forces killed.
• Darul Aman Palace. Built as King Amanullah's Palace in the 1920s, it has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over. Plans were unveiled to renovate it again although it is still in a state of crumbling disrepair on the verge of collapsing. AFN200 or so bakshesh to the guard to look around inside the ruins.
• Tajbeg Palace. Not to be confused with Darul Aman, this palace was also built in the 1920 built to house the Royal family.
• Daoud Khan Memorial, Up the hill behind Darul Aman Palace. On 28 Jun 2008, the body of President Daoud and those of his family were found in two separate mass graves in the Pul-e-Charkhi area, District 12 of Kabul city. There is now a small memorial to the deceased on a small hill, offering nice views over southern Kabul.
• Kabul Zoo. Daily 06:00-18:00. The zoo is very popular with Afghans, and houses over 100 animals, albeit in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main donors of animals in the zoo, but after the death of a few animals to disease and malnutrition, China has announced that there will be no donations until living conditions improve. AFN10 for locals, AFN100 for foreigners.
• Lake Qargha. Described as Kabul's lake district, only 9 km from the city. Spojmai restaurant provides international cuisine. Swimming and boating are popular on the lake with plans for water skiing and jet-skis in the future.
• National Archives of Afghanistan, Salang Wat Rd.
• National Gallery of Afghanistan, Asamayi Watt. 08:00-ish to 16:00-ish, closed Fridays, and you may struggle to be allowed in on Thursday afternoons. A beautiful gallery in a charming old Kabul house that has been carefully restored. The collection used to have some 820 paintings and portraits but 50% have been looted or destroyed; the director said the Taliban destroyed 210 portraits. Most of the collection is of European and Afghan landscapes and portraits of famous Afghan writers and kings and a portrait of the French writer Victor Hugo. Well worth making the effort to see. The Sultani Gallery is attached, but the opening hours are a mystery. AFN250.
• National Museum of Afghanistan, South Kabul, Darul Aman Rd (several miles from the city centre, across from Darulaman Palace. 10:00-16:00 weekdays, 09:00-12:00 Fridays. The National Museum of Afghanistan once housed one of the greatest collections of Central Asian artifacts in the world. A large percentage of the previous collection was looted in the 1990s during Taliban rule after the upper floors of the museum were bombed. Many of the early Buddhist treasures were destroyed by the Taliban at the same time as the Bamiyan Buddhas. Looted items still turn up around the world at auctions. The museum is open once again, with far more modest, but still impressive, displays of early Buddhist and Islamic artifacts. AFN100, Photo camera: AFN200.
• Mausoleum of Nadir Shah and Zahir Shah. This is the site where King Nadir Shah and his son, Zahir Shah, are buried. It has been going through renovation since about 2005 and is still not completed.

Bagh-e Babur. The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor [[Babur]]. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in [[Agra]], and later moved to this spot. Historically, the gardens have been visited by Afghans for picnics and lazy afternoons. There is a swimming pool, a small mosque for prayers and a small museum among other things. AFN10 for locals, AFN250 for foreigners.

Bagh-e Bala. Built in the late 19th century, it served as a summer palace for Amir Abdur Rahman. Today, much of the original interior has been preserved, and the area around the palace has become a large park.

Bagh-e Zanana. A park and market for females only but includes male and female children. It was designed as a place where women could sell their own products and merchandise directly, which cannot be done in areas where men do business, because women in Afghanistan are not supposed to deal directly with men who are not relatives. This park was created as an outlet for these women to sell their goods with respect to their culture. There is also a female run restaurant. The park is also a nice place for female travellers to enjoy the outdoors. Entrance fee AFN50.

British Cemetery. Where foreigners are buried in Kabul. There are also memorial plaques commemorating those ISAF forces killed.

Darul Aman Palace. Built as King Amanullah's Palace in the 1920s, it has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over. Plans were unveiled to renovate it again although it is still in a state of crumbling disrepair on the verge of collapsing. AFN200 or so bakshesh to the guard to look around inside the ruins.

Tajbeg Palace. Not to be confused with Darul Aman, this palace was also built in the 1920 built to house the Royal family.

Daoud Khan Memorial, Up the hill behind Darul Aman Palace. On 28 Jun 2008, the body of President Daoud and those of his family were found in two separate mass graves in the Pul-e-Charkhi area, District 12 of Kabul city. There is now a small memorial to the deceased on a small hill, offering nice views over southern Kabul.

Kabul Zoo. Daily 06:00-18:00. The zoo is very popular with Afghans, and houses over 100 animals, albeit in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main donors of animals in the zoo, but after the death of a few animals to disease and malnutrition, China has announced that there will be no donations until living conditions improve. AFN10 for locals, AFN100 for foreigners.

Lake Qargha. Described as Kabul's lake district, only 9 km from the city. Spojmai restaurant provides international cuisine. Swimming and boating are popular on the lake with plans for water skiing and jet-skis in the future.

National Archives of Afghanistan, Salang Wat Rd.

National Gallery of Afghanistan, Asamayi Watt. 08:00-ish to 16:00-ish, closed Fridays, and you may struggle to be allowed in on Thursday afternoons. A beautiful gallery in a charming old Kabul house that has been carefully restored. The collection used to have some 820 paintings and portraits but 50% have been looted or destroyed; the director said the Taliban destroyed 210 portraits. Most of the collection is of European and Afghan landscapes and portraits of famous Afghan writers and kings and a portrait of the French writer Victor Hugo. Well worth making the effort to see. The Sultani Gallery is attached, but the opening hours are a mystery. AFN250.

National Museum of Afghanistan, South Kabul, Darul Aman Rd (several miles from the city centre, across from Darulaman Palace. 10:00-16:00 weekdays, 09:00-12:00 Fridays. The National Museum of Afghanistan once housed one of the greatest collections of Central Asian artifacts in the world. A large percentage of the previous collection was looted in the 1990s during Taliban rule after the upper floors of the museum were bombed. Many of the early Buddhist treasures were destroyed by the Taliban at the same time as the Bamiyan Buddhas. Looted items still turn up around the world at auctions. The museum is open once again, with far more modest, but still impressive, displays of early Buddhist and Islamic artifacts. AFN100, Photo camera: AFN200.

Mausoleum of Nadir Shah and Zahir Shah. This is the site where King Nadir Shah and his son, Zahir Shah, are buried. It has been going through renovation since about 2005 and is still not completed.

• Kabul Wall. A pleasant hike with rewarding views over the city. The Kabul City Wall is still is pretty good condition, running west-east from Babar Gardens over to Bala Hissar (about 3 km in distance).
• Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Rd, +93 79 22 63 27. Closed down in 1978 by the Soviet Union, it reopened in 2004 after a 25 year hiatus. This 9-hole course bills itself as "extreme golf with an attitude". AFN750/USD15 greens fee for 9 or 18 holes, or AFN15,000/USD300 yearly.
• Ariana Cinema, Pashtunistan Square. Primarily shows Bollywood or trashy action flicks, and the occasional American blockbuster.
• Amani High School sports field. Open to the public on Tuesday afternoons and Fridays - football (soccer) with local Afghan guys, frisbee (with a collection of expats) and a 400-metre running track in comparatively green and pleasant surroundings. Free.
• Ghazi Stadium. Home of the Afghan football team. Just past the stadium is the mine museum as well as a road up the hill where you will find hundreds of Afghan men and boys flying kites on holidays.
• Kabul National Cricket Stadium. Home of the Afghan cricket team. Newly built.
• Swim. There are a few swimming pools in the city. The nicest is probably at the Serena, but is a steep USD30 to use. UNICA club's swimming pool (USD5) is very popular, esp. on Fridays, when there is probably as much catwalking as swimming going on. Internationals (aka Maple Leaf) has a large and often empty pool (USD7) but it is in a plastic shed rather than outdoors. Le Divan also has a pool, again popular on Fridays. Except in private or foreigner-only places, women should not wear anything skimpy (especially bikinis).

Kabul Wall. A pleasant hike with rewarding views over the city. The Kabul City Wall is still is pretty good condition, running west-east from Babar Gardens over to Bala Hissar (about 3 km in distance).

Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Rd, +93 79 22 63 27. Closed down in 1978 by the Soviet Union, it reopened in 2004 after a 25 year hiatus. This 9-hole course bills itself as "extreme golf with an attitude". AFN750/USD15 greens fee for 9 or 18 holes, or AFN15,000/USD300 yearly.

Ariana Cinema, Pashtunistan Square. Primarily shows Bollywood or trashy action flicks, and the occasional American blockbuster.

Amani High School sports field. Open to the public on Tuesday afternoons and Fridays - football (soccer) with local Afghan guys, frisbee (with a collection of expats) and a 400-metre running track in comparatively green and pleasant surroundings. Free.

Ghazi Stadium. Home of the Afghan football team. Just past the stadium is the mine museum as well as a road up the hill where you will find hundreds of Afghan men and boys flying kites on holidays.

Kabul National Cricket Stadium. Home of the Afghan cricket team. Newly built.

Swim. There are a few swimming pools in the city. The nicest is probably at the Serena, but is a steep USD30 to use. UNICA club's swimming pool (USD5) is very popular, esp. on Fridays, when there is probably as much catwalking as swimming going on. Internationals (aka Maple Leaf) has a large and often empty pool (USD7) but it is in a plastic shed rather than outdoors. Le Divan also has a pool, again popular on Fridays. Except in private or foreigner-only places, women should not wear anything skimpy (especially bikinis).

The Share-e Naw area has some shops.

• The Kabul City Center, next to the park, has some very smart shops.
• Majid Mall. In Supreme Tower. It is the largest shopping mall in Afghanistan.
• Roshan Plaza has some quite respectable clothes shops.
• Chicken Street is famed for its tourist offerings (carpets, carvings, knives, etc.), and pirated CD/DVDs.
• Chelsea Supermarket sells many types of Western foods and products.
• Supreme Supermarket on the Jalalabad Road (near the British military base) has Western products, but no alcohol is available. It is not open to Afghans. A little further down the road is Ciano, an Italian commissary. There is frequently a security alert on the Jalalabad Road.
• Spinneys Seems to cater to NGOs. Can buy most Western products and food. They had turkeys and a lot of traditional side dishes available for Christmas last year.
• Shah M Book Co. The best bookshop in the city, it has a good selection of coffee table books and books about Afghanistan. The owner was the subject for the book The Bookseller of Kabul. Prices are high, but you'll appreciate his selection.
• Finest Super Markets. Finest Super Market has four branches in Kabul, 1-Wazir Akbar khan 13th St (but this store was blown up on 28 Jan 2011), 2- Opposite Kabul Business Centre, 3- Kart-e-sai and 4- Kart-e-Parwan. Normally you can find most of your daily needs and has high quality goods.

A few ATMs that accept international cards are scattered around the city, and most dispense both Afghanis and US dollars. However, credit cards are unlikely to work or be accepted anywhere in the city, except a couple of the top end hotels.

• Afghanistan International Bank (AIB). Has a few machines around Kabul, including one inside the Kabul City Centre shopping mall. They dispense in Afghanis and US dollars, however they are often reluctant to part with any cash and sometimes dispense old, ripped notes.
• Azizi Bank. Has many branches in the city.
• Kabul Bank. Has many branches in the city.
• Western Union. Has many branches across the city.
• Money Changers – some people prefer to exchange their money for Afghanis through the local money changers that stand on the road. There is no fee to exchange money this way, but make sure you know the exchange rate before attempting this.

Afghanistan International Bank (AIB). Has a few machines around Kabul, including one inside the Kabul City Centre shopping mall. They dispense in Afghanis and US dollars, however they are often reluctant to part with any cash and sometimes dispense old, ripped notes.

Azizi Bank. Has many branches in the city.

Kabul Bank. Has many branches in the city.

Western Union. Has many branches across the city.

Money Changers – some people prefer to exchange their money for Afghanis through the local money changers that stand on the road. There is no fee to exchange money this way, but make sure you know the exchange rate before attempting this.

The Kabul City Center, next to the park, has some very smart shops.

Majid Mall. In Supreme Tower. It is the largest shopping mall in Afghanistan.

Roshan Plaza has some quite respectable clothes shops.

Chicken Street is famed for its tourist offerings (carpets, carvings, knives, etc.), and pirated CD/DVDs.

Chelsea Supermarket sells many types of Western foods and products.

Supreme Supermarket on the Jalalabad Road (near the British military base) has Western products, but no alcohol is available. It is not open to Afghans. A little further down the road is Ciano, an Italian commissary. There is frequently a security alert on the [[Jalalabad]] Road.

Spinneys Seems to cater to NGOs. Can buy most Western products and food. They had turkeys and a lot of traditional side dishes available for Christmas last year.

Shah M Book Co. The best bookshop in the city, it has a good selection of coffee table books and books about Afghanistan. The owner was the subject for the book [[Special:Booksources/0316734500|The Bookseller of Kabul]]. Prices are high, but you'll appreciate his selection.

Finest Super Markets. Finest Super Market has four branches in Kabul, 1-Wazir Akbar khan 13th St (but this store was blown up on 28 Jan 2011), 2- Opposite Kabul Business Centre, 3- Kart-e-sai and 4- Kart-e-Parwan. Normally you can find most of your daily needs and has high quality goods.

The thousands of foreigners in the city since the fall of the Taliban has gradually turned Kabul into something of a foodie haven. Restaurants can crudely be split into "places for locals" and "places for expats", with the latter having higher security, higher prices, but not necessarily higher quality. Restaurants that are UN-approved are particularly expensive. If you are looking for a place with a good mix of Afghans and expat diners the (dry) Lebanese, Turkish and Iranian restaurants are the ones to head towards.

Restaurants open and close with surprising frequency, so it is a good idea to check whether a place is still operating before heading out.

• Afghan Fried Chicken, clean Western-style fast food restaurant.
• Cafe, in the basement of Kabul City Center, Share-e Naw. Burger and banana drink for less than USD3.
• Everest Pizza, 13 St Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 799-317979, +93 70-263636. 09:00-21:00. Fast food, English menu. Phone orders and home delivery available.
• Kabul Fried Chicken, clean Western-style fast food restaurant.
• Peshawar Kebab Shop. 11:00-18:00. A great local place for a tasty lunch. They only serve one type of food; Pakistani style flat chapli kebabs, but they do it well and cost only AFN100 or so.
• Shar-e-now Burgers, +93 799-300797, +93 70-255788. 10:00-22:00. Fast food, English menu. Phone orders available.
• Street stalls, abound, and good ones can be found around Shahr-e Naw Park and near the Pul-e Khisti bridge in the old town. However, the hygiene is questionable particularly in the summer.

Afghan Fried Chicken, clean Western-style fast food restaurant.

Cafe, in the basement of Kabul City Center, Share-e Naw. Burger and banana drink for less than USD3.

Everest Pizza, 13 St Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 799-317979, +93 70-263636. 09:00-21:00. Fast food, English menu. Phone orders and home delivery available.

Kabul Fried Chicken, clean Western-style fast food restaurant.

Peshawar Kebab Shop. 11:00-18:00. A great local place for a tasty lunch. They only serve one type of food; Pakistani style flat chapli kebabs, but they do it well and cost only AFN100 or so.

Shar-e-now Burgers, +93 799-300797, +93 70-255788. 10:00-22:00. Fast food, English menu. Phone orders available.

Street stalls, abound, and good ones can be found around Shahr-e Naw Park and near the Pul-e Khisti bridge in the old town. However, the hygiene is questionable particularly in the summer.

The vast numbers of foreigners in Kabul has lead to the city being perhaps the best place to eat in the region, and in the mid-range bracket there are dozens of good places to eat for USD15-25 per person for an evening meal.

• Afghan International Pizza Express, Darulaman Rd (near Ministry of Commerce and Ariana TV, +93 700 383 918. Good pizza.
• Anaar Restaurant & Bar, Crossing of St 14, Lane 3, Wazir Akbar Khan (Between Wazir Akbar Khan circle and Heetal Plaza Hotel, towards end of St 14, +93 700 284 315. 10:00-22:00. UN security clearance. Great Indian and Asian cuisine. English menu, English speaking staff. Phone orders - take-away and delivery available.
• Le Divan Restaurant (frm L'Atmosphere), Str.4, Qala-e- fatullah, +93 799-300264, +93 700 224982. 10:00-22:00. French cuisine, French and English menu. Phone orders available. Garden dining and swimming pool. Closed on Sundays.
• B’s Place Restaurant, Str.2, Qala-e- fatullah House No.3, +93 70-276416, +93 70-276711. 11:00–23:00. Italian and Mexican cuisine, English menu. Phone orders available.
• Bella Italia, Street 14, near the Pakistani Consulate, +93 799 600 666. open until 22:00. Italian food. Good pizzas and pastas. Expensive mains. Good appetisers. English menu.
• Carlito's Restaurant & Bar, Str 15 Wazir Ak Khan, +93 799 159697, +93 799 167824. 10:00-22:00. Mexican cuisine, English Menu. No phone orders/home delivery
• Cafe du Pelican, Daraluman Rd (on the west side of the road, look for an orange guard box and Landcruisers parked outside. closes at 17:00. Run by a French couple, good French cafe food with a bakery.
• Chief Burger, Shahre Naw (In front of Park Cinema. 20:00-midnight. This restaurant provides fast food; burger and pizzas.
• Delhi Darbar, Cinema Zainab Rd, Share-e Naw (between the park and Flower St, +93 799 324 899. Great Indian food including a USD6 thali. Indoor seating is intimate and spread through 3 rooms, or sit outside in the spacious garden.
• Escalades Restaurant, Macroian2, Matba block 104, +93 799 473763. 10:00–22:00. European cuisine, English menu. No phone orders or home delivery.
• The Grill Restaurant, Street 15, Wazir Akbar Khan (on junction near British embassy. Lebanese food in pleasant garden surroundings, mixed clientèle.
• Hong Kong Restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan (near Pakistani embassy. Good Chinese food.
• Istanbul Restaurant, Macroian2, Matba block 104, +93 70 200116, +93 799 356282. 08:00–21:00. Excellent Turkish cuisine, English menu. Clean, pleasant and frequented by middle class Afghans - a great place to sample good food and a slice of local Kabul life. Phone orders available.
• Kulba Afghan, Shar-e-now, Esmat Moslim Str. 3rd floor, +93 799 452151, +93 70 034979. 10:00–21:00. Afghan and Italian cuisine, English menu. No phone orders or home delivery.
• Mai Thai Restaurant, Str15 Wazir Ak Khan House No.124, +93 70 297557, +93 70-278640. 11:00–21:00. Thai cuisine, English menu and English speaking staff. The reincarnation of Lai Thai. Inside is very nice or you can sit outside. Park outside on the dirt road. Good prices.
• Mr Cod, Kabul Tower, Shaheed Abdul Haq Square, Makroyan 3, +93 78 505 0501. British style fish and chips.
• New World Korean Restaurant, Charyi Ansari (Shar-e Now, +93 799 199509. until 21:00. The food is excellent quality. Good selection of Korean dishes, including excellent kimbab (Korean sushi).
• Zadar Croatian Restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan 13th St, +93 70 0220884. Romantic restaurant and Divan lounge bar. Catering, take away, provides for parties and ceremonial events.
• Pamir Restaurant, Bagh-e Bala Rd (at the Intercontinental Hotel, +93 20 2201321. Offers an excellent and cheap buffet.
• Popolano Italian Restaurant, Charahi Ansari, Share-e Naw, +93 70 288116. 09:00-22:00. English menu, good pizza and pastas. Phone orders available.
• The Springfield Restaurant & Bar, Wazir Akbar Khan. Pizza and assorted Italian/Western fare, and has a weekly quiz night on Mondays.
• Raven Rae Restaurant, +93 779 057640. 18:30-22:30. Serves grilled meat, seafood, steak, pizza, soups and salads. Serves brunch in the rose garden during the summer months. USD5-25.
• Sufi Restaurant, Street 1, Taimani Qalayee Fatullah Khan (near the Intercontinental Hotel, +93 70 283 7162. Serves traditional Afghan food.
• Boccaccio Restaurant & Bar, Str 10 Wazir Ak khan (same street as Everest Pizza), +93 799 160368. 10:00–22:00. European and Italian cuisine, English menu. No phone orders or home delivery. Expensive, but the food is some of the best in Kabul.

Afghan International Pizza Express, Darulaman Rd (near Ministry of Commerce and Ariana TV, +93 700 383 918. Good pizza.

Anaar Restaurant & Bar, Crossing of St 14, Lane 3, Wazir Akbar Khan (Between Wazir Akbar Khan circle and Heetal Plaza Hotel, towards end of St 14, +93 700 284 315. 10:00-22:00. UN security clearance. Great Indian and Asian cuisine. English menu, English speaking staff. Phone orders - take-away and delivery available.

Le Divan Restaurant (frm L'Atmosphere), Str.4, Qala-e- fatullah, +93 799-300264, +93 700 224982. 10:00-22:00. French cuisine, French and English menu. Phone orders available. Garden dining and swimming pool. Closed on Sundays.

B’s Place Restaurant, Str.2, Qala-e- fatullah House No.3, +93 70-276416, +93 70-276711. 11:00–23:00. Italian and Mexican cuisine, English menu. Phone orders available.

Bella Italia, Street 14, near the Pakistani Consulate, +93 799 600 666. open until 22:00. Italian food. Good pizzas and pastas. Expensive mains. Good appetisers. English menu.

Carlito's Restaurant & Bar, Str 15 Wazir Ak Khan, +93 799 159697, +93 799 167824. 10:00-22:00. Mexican cuisine, English Menu. No phone orders/home delivery

Cafe du Pelican, Daraluman Rd (on the west side of the road, look for an orange guard box and Landcruisers parked outside. closes at 17:00. Run by a French couple, good French cafe food with a bakery.

Chief Burger, Shahre Naw (In front of Park Cinema. 20:00-midnight. This restaurant provides fast food; burger and pizzas.

Delhi Darbar, Cinema Zainab Rd, Share-e Naw (between the park and Flower St, +93 799 324 899. Great Indian food including a USD6 thali. Indoor seating is intimate and spread through 3 rooms, or sit outside in the spacious garden.

Escalades Restaurant, Macroian2, Matba block 104, +93 799 473763. 10:00–22:00. European cuisine, English menu. No phone orders or home delivery.

The Grill Restaurant, Street 15, Wazir Akbar Khan (on junction near British embassy. Lebanese food in pleasant garden surroundings, mixed clientèle.

Hong Kong Restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan (near Pakistani embassy. Good Chinese food.

Istanbul Restaurant, Macroian2, Matba block 104, +93 70 200116, +93 799 356282. 08:00–21:00. Excellent Turkish cuisine, English menu. Clean, pleasant and frequented by middle class Afghans - a great place to sample good food and a slice of local Kabul life. Phone orders available.

Kulba Afghan, Shar-e-now, Esmat Moslim Str. 3rd floor, +93 799 452151, +93 70 034979. 10:00–21:00. Afghan and Italian cuisine, English menu. No phone orders or home delivery.

Mai Thai Restaurant, Str15 Wazir Ak Khan House No.124, +93 70 297557, +93 70-278640. 11:00–21:00. Thai cuisine, English menu and English speaking staff. The reincarnation of Lai Thai. Inside is very nice or you can sit outside. Park outside on the dirt road. Good prices.

Mr Cod, Kabul Tower, Shaheed Abdul Haq Square, Makroyan 3, +93 78 505 0501. British style fish and chips.

New World Korean Restaurant, Charyi Ansari (Shar-e Now, +93 799 199509. until 21:00. The food is excellent quality. Good selection of Korean dishes, including excellent kimbab (Korean sushi).

Zadar Croatian Restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan 13th St, +93 70 0220884. Romantic restaurant and Divan lounge bar. Catering, take away, provides for parties and ceremonial events.

Pamir Restaurant, Bagh-e Bala Rd (at the Intercontinental Hotel, +93 20 2201321. Offers an excellent and cheap buffet.

Popolano Italian Restaurant, Charahi Ansari, Share-e Naw, +93 70 288116. 09:00-22:00. English menu, good pizza and pastas. Phone orders available.

The Springfield Restaurant & Bar, Wazir Akbar Khan. Pizza and assorted Italian/Western fare, and has a weekly quiz night on Mondays.

Raven Rae Restaurant, +93 779 057640. 18:30-22:30. Serves grilled meat, seafood, steak, pizza, soups and salads. Serves brunch in the rose garden during the summer months. USD5-25.

Sufi Restaurant, Street 1, Taimani Qalayee Fatullah Khan (near the Intercontinental Hotel, +93 70 283 7162. Serves traditional Afghan food.

Boccaccio Restaurant & Bar, Str 10 Wazir Ak khan (same street as Everest Pizza), +93 799 160368. 10:00–22:00. European and Italian cuisine, English menu. No phone orders or home delivery. Expensive, but the food is some of the best in Kabul.

• Café Zarnegar, Froshgah St (In the Kabul Serena Hotel, +93 79 9654 000. 06:30-22:00 daily, brunch 11:00-16:00. Tasty high-end international food and nice atmosphere, one of the nicest restaurants in the city. Their large buffet is probably the best in the country. Mains USD15-20.
• Gandamack Lodge. One of Kabul's classiest establishments serving a varied menu in a nice atmosphere. Alcohol is very expensive, even by Afghan standards, but that can be forgiven given the fairly reasonable food prices.
• Raven Restaurant, Shar-E-Naw (Off Butcher St. (Koche Qasabi), take first left lane. Raven Restaurant (and Guesthouse) is the 6th building on the right., +93 779 057640. 18:30-22:30. Grilled meat, seafood, steak and pizza. Vietnamese spring rolls and coffee served in the rose garden around back on F Sa, 10:00-15:00. Restaurant is closed on Monday. USD5-25.
• Silk Route Restaurant, Froshgah St (In the Kabul Serena Hotel, +93 79 9654 000. 18:00-22:00 daily. Specializes in Southeast Asian food in a luxurious atmosphere. USD15-20.

Café Zarnegar, Froshgah St (In the Kabul Serena Hotel, +93 79 9654 000. 06:30-22:00 daily, brunch 11:00-16:00. Tasty high-end international food and nice atmosphere, one of the nicest restaurants in the city. Their large buffet is probably the best in the country. Mains USD15-20.

Gandamack Lodge. One of Kabul's classiest establishments serving a varied menu in a nice atmosphere. Alcohol is very expensive, even by Afghan standards, but that can be forgiven given the fairly reasonable food prices.

Raven Restaurant, Shar-E-Naw (Off Butcher St. (Koche Qasabi), take first left lane. Raven Restaurant (and Guesthouse) is the 6th building on the right., +93 779 057640. 18:30-22:30. Grilled meat, seafood, steak and pizza. Vietnamese spring rolls and coffee served in the rose garden around back on F Sa, 10:00-15:00. Restaurant is closed on Monday. USD5-25.

Silk Route Restaurant, Froshgah St (In the Kabul Serena Hotel, +93 79 9654 000. 18:00-22:00 daily. Specializes in Southeast Asian food in a luxurious atmosphere. USD15-20.

Despite being illegal, alcohol is pretty easy to find in Kabul's expat restaurants - buying your own supply involves befriending someone working at an embassy or military base, or dipping into the murky world of expat black-marketeering. Beer and spirits are available at UNICA, but the selection is slim.

• There are numerous Internet cafes around the city, so getting access should not be too hard.
• Assa II Net Cafe, Muslim St. On the ground floor of Assa II Guesthouse, they have several computers with semi-reliable connections. AFN25 or USD1 per hour.

Kabul Coffee House and Flower Street Cafe both have wireless Internet for customers.

• Afghan HD tv. Watch Afghan TV HD.

Assa II Net Cafe, Muslim St. On the ground floor of Assa II Guesthouse, they have several computers with semi-reliable connections. AFN25 or USD1 per hour.

Afghan HD tv. Watch Afghan TV HD.

• The cellular telephone system in Kabul is excellent. American and European phones do work on the local system. 3G services are widely available.
• Roshan Shop, St 13, Wazir Akbar Khan (Off Main St, +93 79 997 1333.

Roshan Shop, St 13, Wazir Akbar Khan (Off Main St, +93 79 997 1333.

Kabul is generally considered one of the safer parts of the country, and while bombings and kidnappings have waned considerably, they do remain a threat. That said, there are tens of thousands of expats and visitors to the city and considering that only a small handful have been victims of such attacks, you should be vigilant but not afraid. Avoid walking after dark, don't loiter in hotel lobbies, and (for long stays and expats), vary your routes and timings daily. Riots happen occasionally and are often accompanied by looting -- stay well away from them as authorities will respond with lethal force.

Female visitors: Make sure you wear a headscarf before landing in Kabul Airport until you fly out.

While visiting Kabul or any other part of the country, having any kind of social interaction with local people should not be a problem, Afghan people are traditionally very kind and hospitable toward guests.

Read the Scene magazine for restaurant reviews and all sorts of useful info. It is free, although street sellers may charge for it. There are many FM radio stations. However, the only widely available English language broadcast is from the BBC World Service on 101.6MHz. Tolo TV is perhaps the most popular TV station.

• Canada Canada, Street No. 15, House No. 256 Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 799 742 800.
• China China, Sardar Shah Mahmoud Ghazi Wai, +93 20 210 2545.
• Finland Finland, Street 10, Lane 1, House 728 Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 20 231 2031. Su-Th 08:30-16:15.
• Germany Germany, Wazir Akbar Khan, Mena 6, +93 20 210 1512, +93 20 799 883 173 (emergencies). Su-Th 09:00-12:00 and Th 14:30-15:30.
• Greece Greece, Hay Babil, AL-Jadriyah Sector 913, Rd. 31/ Built 63, +96 41 778 2273, +96 41 778 4360, +96 4 7903642046 (Emergencies).
• Japan Japan, Street 15, Wazir Akbar Khan, +870 762-853-777.
• United Kingdom United Kingdom, 15th St, Roundabout Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 700 102 000.
• United States United States, Bibi Mahru (Airport) Rd (Near Massoud Circle and Radio/TV Afghanistan, +93 700 10 8001, +93 700 201 908 (after-hours emergencies). Su-Th 08:00-16:30.

Canada Canada, Street No. 15, House No. 256 Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 799 742 800.

China China, Sardar Shah Mahmoud Ghazi Wai, +93 20 210 2545.

Finland Finland, Street 10, Lane 1, House 728 Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 20 231 2031. Su-Th 08:30-16:15.

Germany Germany, Wazir Akbar Khan, Mena 6, +93 20 210 1512, +93 20 799 883 173 (emergencies). Su-Th 09:00-12:00 and Th 14:30-15:30.

Greece Greece, Hay Babil, AL-Jadriyah Sector 913, Rd. 31/ Built 63, +96 41 778 2273, +96 41 778 4360, +96 4 7903642046 (Emergencies).

Japan Japan, Street 15, Wazir Akbar Khan, +870 762-853-777.

United Kingdom United Kingdom, 15th St, Roundabout Wazir Akbar Khan, +93 700 102 000.

United States United States, Bibi Mahru (Airport) Rd (Near Massoud Circle and Radio/TV Afghanistan, +93 700 10 8001, +93 700 201 908 (after-hours emergencies). Su-Th 08:00-16:30.

Most expats take any opportunity they can to leave Kabul. Istalif in a side valley of the Shamali Plain makes for an excellent overnight or day trip destination. A day trip to the north (Shamali Plain, Salang Pass, Panjshir Valley and Jabal os Saraj), Qargha Reservoir to the west of Kabul etc.

You can fly to Dubai, Dushanbe or Delhi for the weekend also.