Kaliningrad

Kaliningrad (Russian: Калинингра́д kuh-leen-een-GRAHD), also known by its original German name, Königsberg, is the capital city of Kaliningrad Oblast in Russia. It has about 450,000 inhabitants. It is also called 'Karaliaucius' in Lithuanian, as Lithuanians (cousins to the 'Old Prussians') used to live there. So it is truly the 'City of the Four K s: Kaliningrad / Königsberg / Krolewiec / Karalaucius '. Following the Second World War, it was briefly known as Kyonigsberg (Кёнигсберг), the Russified form of the original German name.

Kaliningrad's history dates back to the 13th century, when it was under the rule of the Teutonic knights, an order of German knights, priests and lay men who sought to expand Christianity through missions and conquests. Known by its German name of Königsberg then, the city was the capital of Prussia.

Kaliningrad was a hub for science and culture whizzes from Germany, Poland and Lithuania. In-fact the famous mathematical Königsberg bridge problem is based in the city. Kaliningrad is also home to renowned philosopher Immanuel Kant and prominent German writer Ernst Theodor Amadeus Hoffmann. Kant is said to have had such pride in his hometown that he barely left the place in his lifetime, declaring that he did not need to venture abroad because ships came and brought people to tell him stories.

Destroyed in World War II and annexed to the USSR in 1946, the region was stripped of its German identity after the German population had been expelled and was named after Mikhail Kalinin, a Russian communist leader. A highly militarised zone during the Soviet era, the area only opened to visitors about 20 years ago.

The best time to visit is in summer between June and August, when the temperature is around 20 to 25 deg C. Temperatures in autumn range from 10 to 15 deg C and the season lasts from September to November. The Kaliningrad winter, which is from December to February, is much milder winter than Russia, with temperatures from 5 deg C to minus 11 deg C.

Take along an umbrella, because the weather is unpredictable and windy. The weather is quite humid too, thanks to its proximity to the Baltic Sea. The Baltic sun is mild.

• The old cathedral of Königsberg, Kanta 1 (Easily approachable by foot either from the direction of the Kaliningrad Hotel (take the left side of the Leninsky Prospekt auto bridge south, and descend the stairs when the cathedral appears on your left) or from the direction of the Fish Village, +7 4012 63-17-05. 9AM to 5PM. Founded in 1333, largely reconstructed after World War II, the cathedral on Kneiphof Island along the Pregolya River is a sight to see. The cathedral links Kaliningrad to its German past, as it is where the Prussian kings were once crowned. There are two rooms in the Cathedral Museum devoted to the life of Kant, whose tomb lies beside the cathedral walls. Up the stairs to the left of the main door is a three-story museum dedicated to the life and work of Immanuel Kant (separate ticket needed). Kant's grave can be viewed outside the cathedral, on the northeast corner of the building. .

• The House of Soviets. Known to locals as 'The Monster' or 'The Robot's Head', this is sort of an anti-attraction, but useful for orientation in the city center. It was constructed on the ruins of the Königsberg Castle, but was deemed structurally unsound and therefore never occupied. Rumor has it that a mysterious owner prevents it from being demolished. An archaeological dig is active on the grounds, which is not open to tourists, but specialists may be able to arrange for a visit of the remains of the castle.

• The old fortifications. From approx. 1860-70, they include 15 town gates - Sackheim, King's, Rossgarten, Attack, Railway, Brandenburg, Friedland, Friedrich Wilhelm III. One of the towers is home to the Amber Museum.
• Fishing Village. Red-roofed buildings and colourful exteriors illustrate the charm of old Koenigsberg, what Kaliningrad used to be known as.
• Victory Square. The central area where the administrative buildings, banks and shops are.
• The New Kaliningrad Synagogue, Ulitsa Oktyabr'skaya, 1а. Re-built from scratch and opened to the public in 2018 on site of the former New Synagogue (opened in 1896) that was burnt down by the Nazis during the Kristallnacht in November 1938. Despite the fact that the building isn't an exact copy of the former one, it rather inherited the overall architectural solution as well as its main volumes and proportions.

• Amber Museum, Marshal Vasilevsky Square 1 (In the Dohna Tower of the city wall, +7 4012 46 68 88. 10AM to 7PM, daily except Monday. Houses a large number of amber ornaments and jewellery from Yantarny in the wider Kaliningrad region. .
• Bunker Museum, Universitetskaya 2 (Enter the first courtyard to the right behind the Kaliningrad Hotel. daily except Wednesday, 10AM to 4PM. A bit hard to find (one must weave through three or four courtyards and children's playgrounds before finding it, which is barely marked except by two black upright triangular canopies over the bunker doors), it was the headquarters of the local German command during the 1945 battle. A museum of the city's German past (which lasted 689 years) and Soviet "liberation" of the city, including several interesting dioramas of events during the days of the battle. .
• Immanuel Kant Museum.
• Museum of the World Ocean, Nab. Petra Velikogo 1, +7 4012 53 89 15. 11AM to 6PM, Wed-Sun. Includes two scientific research museum ships, a Cold War era submarine B-413, a floating lighthouse and a post-war fishing trawler. Starting from 300RUB.
• Kaliningrad Regional Museum of History and Arts, Klinicheskaya 21. 10.00 – 18.00; closed: Monday. The main building was once the Stadthalle, Königsberg's performing arts centre. Branches include Bunker Museum, Fort 5 «King Frederick Wilhelm III», open air «Koenigsberg Castle» and Park of Sculpture.
• Kaliningrad Museum of Fine Arts, Leninskiy prospekt, 83, +7 (4012) 46-71-43. Tue, Wed, Sat, Sun 10-19, Thu-Fri 10-21. Art museum specializing in the regional painting, sculpture and photography of XXth century, temporary exhibitions. Since 2018 it is located in the historical building of the former Konigsberg Exchange, built in 1875, designed by the famous German architect Heinrich Mueller. The building was seriously damaged during the Allied bombings in 1944 and was fully restored only by early 70's. 150 RUB.

Amber Museum, Marshal Vasilevsky Square 1 (In the Dohna Tower of the city wall, +7 4012 46 68 88. 10AM to 7PM, daily except Monday. Houses a large number of amber ornaments and jewellery from Yantarny in the wider Kaliningrad region. .

Bunker Museum, Universitetskaya 2 (Enter the first courtyard to the right behind the Kaliningrad Hotel. daily except Wednesday, 10AM to 4PM. A bit hard to find (one must weave through three or four courtyards and children's playgrounds before finding it, which is barely marked except by two black upright triangular canopies over the bunker doors), it was the headquarters of the local German command during the 1945 battle. A museum of the city's German past (which lasted 689 years) and Soviet "liberation" of the city, including several interesting dioramas of events during the days of the battle. .

Immanuel Kant Museum.

Museum of the World Ocean, Nab. Petra Velikogo 1, +7 4012 53 89 15. 11AM to 6PM, Wed-Sun. Includes two scientific research museum ships, a Cold War era submarine B-413, a floating lighthouse and a post-war fishing trawler. Starting from 300RUB.

Kaliningrad Regional Museum of History and Arts, Klinicheskaya 21. 10.00 – 18.00; closed: Monday. The main building was once the Stadthalle, Königsberg's performing arts centre. Branches include Bunker Museum, Fort 5 «King Frederick Wilhelm III», open air «Koenigsberg Castle» and Park of Sculpture.

Kaliningrad Museum of Fine Arts, Leninskiy prospekt, 83, +7 (4012) 46-71-43. Tue, Wed, Sat, Sun 10-19, Thu-Fri 10-21. Art museum specializing in the regional painting, sculpture and photography of XXth century, temporary exhibitions. Since 2018 it is located in the historical building of the former Konigsberg Exchange, built in 1875, designed by the famous German architect Heinrich Mueller. The building was seriously damaged during the Allied bombings in 1944 and was fully restored only by early 70's. 150 RUB.

The old cathedral of Königsberg, Kanta 1 (Easily approachable by foot either from the direction of the Kaliningrad Hotel (take the left side of the Leninsky Prospekt auto bridge south, and descend the stairs when the cathedral appears on your left) or from the direction of the Fish Village, +7 4012 63-17-05. 9AM to 5PM. Founded in 1333, largely reconstructed after World War II, the cathedral on Kneiphof Island along the Pregolya River is a sight to see. The cathedral links Kaliningrad to its German past, as it is where the Prussian kings were once crowned. There are two rooms in the Cathedral Museum devoted to the life of Kant, whose tomb lies beside the cathedral walls. Up the stairs to the left of the main door is a three-story museum dedicated to the life and work of Immanuel Kant (separate ticket needed). Kant's grave can be viewed outside the cathedral, on the northeast corner of the building. .

The House of Soviets. Known to locals as 'The Monster' or 'The Robot's Head', this is sort of an anti-attraction, but useful for orientation in the city center. It was constructed on the ruins of the Königsberg Castle, but was deemed structurally unsound and therefore never occupied. Rumor has it that a mysterious owner prevents it from being demolished. An archaeological dig is active on the grounds, which is not open to tourists, but specialists may be able to arrange for a visit of the remains of the castle.

The old fortifications. From approx. 1860-70, they include 15 town gates - Sackheim, King's, Rossgarten, Attack, Railway, Brandenburg, Friedland, Friedrich Wilhelm III. One of the towers is home to the Amber Museum.

Fishing Village. Red-roofed buildings and colourful exteriors illustrate the charm of old Koenigsberg, what Kaliningrad used to be known as.

Victory Square. The central area where the administrative buildings, banks and shops are.

The New Kaliningrad Synagogue, Ulitsa Oktyabr'skaya, 1а. Re-built from scratch and opened to the public in 2018 on site of the former New Synagogue (opened in 1896) that was burnt down by the Nazis during the Kristallnacht in November 1938. Despite the fact that the building isn't an exact copy of the former one, it rather inherited the overall architectural solution as well as its main volumes and proportions.

• Walk the bridges - The seven bridges of Königsberg linked the two islands and the banks of the Pregel River. Proving the impossibility of there being a route that crosses each bridge exactly once led Euler to important discoveries in mathematical graph theory. Königsberg became Kaliningrad, the Pregel became the Pregolya, two of the bridges were bombed in WWII, two were demolished and replaced with a highway called Lenin, and one was rebuilt in 1935. Now there are five bridges, the problem is solvable. Try it!
• Annual Jazz Festival 'Don Chento Jazz'. Takes place in August
• Fish at the Baltic sea. All year round
• Trek in the forests. Soak up nature in the untouched forests
• Kaliningrad's annual two-day City Day. Commemorates its founding since 1255. It is celebrated in September. The city comes out in full force to party under the dazzling fireworks, concerts, performances, sports, arts and car-related events.
• Watch football at Kaliningrad Stadium, built in 2018 to host group games of the FIFA World Cup. It's home to FC Baltika Kaliningrad, who play in the Russian National Football League (also called the First Division, ie the second tier of Russian football.) The stadium is two-tiered, with a design modelled on the Allianz Stadium in Munich. Its capacity for the World Cup was 35,000, but this is to be reduced to 25,000. It's sited 2 km east of city centre on Oktyabrsky Island, a long marshy island in the River Pregolya. So it's walkable from the centre, or take tram 5 or bus 40 or 72 and get off at Veteranov. The football team formerly played at Baltika Stadium north-east of the centre: this is a multipurpose stadium of capacity 14,600 but its future main use has not been announced.

Walk the bridges - The seven bridges of Königsberg linked the two islands and the banks of the Pregel River. Proving the impossibility of there being a route that crosses each bridge exactly once led Euler to important discoveries in mathematical graph theory. Königsberg became Kaliningrad, the Pregel became the Pregolya, two of the bridges were bombed in WWII, two were demolished and replaced with a highway called Lenin, and one was rebuilt in 1935. Now there are five bridges, the problem is solvable. Try it!

Annual Jazz Festival 'Don Chento Jazz'. Takes place in August

Fish at the Baltic sea. All year round

Trek in the forests. Soak up nature in the untouched forests

Kaliningrad's annual two-day City Day. Commemorates its founding since 1255. It is celebrated in September. The city comes out in full force to party under the dazzling fireworks, concerts, performances, sports, arts and car-related events.

Watch football at Kaliningrad Stadium, built in 2018 to host group games of the FIFA World Cup. It's home to FC Baltika Kaliningrad, who play in the Russian National Football League (also called the First Division, ie the second tier of Russian football.) The stadium is two-tiered, with a design modelled on the Allianz Stadium in Munich. Its capacity for the World Cup was 35,000, but this is to be reduced to 25,000. It's sited 2 km east of city centre on Oktyabrsky Island, a long marshy island in the River Pregolya. So it's walkable from the centre, or take tram 5 or bus 40 or 72 and get off at Veteranov. The football team formerly played at Baltika Stadium north-east of the centre: this is a multipurpose stadium of capacity 14,600 but its future main use has not been announced.

• Europa shopping mall, Ploshad Pobedy, 2A Victory Square (Train to Severnyy vokzal, +7 8 4012 21-08-23. 66,000 m2 of high-end boutiques, cinemas, food and beverage outlets ranging from fine-dining restaurants, cosy cafes to cheap food kiosks.
• Viktoriya Supermarket, Leninsky Prospekt 30 (Ground floor of the Plaza Center. A 24-hour supermarket, useful for self-caterers. Other locations throughout the city, too, incl. shopping center right in front of South train station and bus station.

Amber jewellery and art and craft is the local specialty:

• Kaliningrad Amber Factory, Ul. Chernyakhovskovo 62 (also other locations in the city, +7 8 4012 53 05 45. Factory store offering a wide variety of jewelry and objets d'art for almost any budget.
• Amber pavilion. opens at 10AM. Several stores grouped together with a variety of amber items at competitive prices.
• Yantarny, Information tourist center «Gorod Vdohnoveniya», Masterov Square, Yantarny settlement (Located an hour's drive from the city, +7 8-911-462-79-59- 8-911-462-79-59. Yantarny has the biggest amber mine in the world and accounts for more than 90 per cent of the world's output. This settlement has a wide variety of amber products.
• Amber Museum's gift shop, 1, Marshal Vasilevsky square, +7 8 4012 46 68 88, +7 8 4012 46 65 50. You can buy a piece of amber from .

Europa shopping mall, Ploshad Pobedy, 2A Victory Square (Train to Severnyy vokzal, +7 8 4012 21-08-23. 66,000 m2 of high-end boutiques, cinemas, food and beverage outlets ranging from fine-dining restaurants, cosy cafes to cheap food kiosks.

Viktoriya Supermarket, Leninsky Prospekt 30 (Ground floor of the Plaza Center. A 24-hour supermarket, useful for self-caterers. Other locations throughout the city, too, incl. shopping center right in front of South train station and bus station.

Kaliningrad Amber Factory, Ul. Chernyakhovskovo 62 (also other locations in the city, +7 8 4012 53 05 45. Factory store offering a wide variety of jewelry and objets d'art for almost any budget.

Amber pavilion. opens at 10AM. Several stores grouped together with a variety of amber items at competitive prices.

Yantarny, Information tourist center «Gorod Vdohnoveniya», Masterov Square, Yantarny settlement (Located an hour's drive from the city, +7 8-911-462-79-59- 8-911-462-79-59. Yantarny has the biggest amber mine in the world and accounts for more than 90 per cent of the world's output. This settlement has a wide variety of amber products.

Amber Museum's gift shop, 1, Marshal Vasilevsky square, +7 8 4012 46 68 88, +7 8 4012 46 65 50. You can buy a piece of amber from .

• Papasha Beppe Pizzaria, Leninsky Pr. 20/26 and Baltiiskaya Ul. 12. 11AM to 11PM. Many locals consider this to be the best thin crust and thick crust pizza in town, also a wide variety of salads, pastas, risottos, and desserts. per pizza.
• Karamel, Leninsky Prospekt 30 (On the top floor of the Plaza Center; note the separate elevator to the right of the main entrance to the shopping mall., +7 4012 53-04-61. Some of the best views from the city from this cafe. Excellent food and fairly broad range of European cuisine, approximately per entree.
• Razgulyai, Ploshad' Pobedy 1, +7 4012 533-689. Cafeteria-style restaurant with rustic decor. Good for children.
• Solyanka Cafe, 24 Prospect Mira, +7 4012-936-203. Try the solyanka, a thick, piquant soup that is either meat-based, fish-based or vegetable-based. It is cooked with preserved cucumbers, olives, capers and tomato puree that give a strong sour-salty taste to the soup. Solyanka is perhaps one of the most popular soups besides borscht (beetroot soup) in Russia, but remains unknown beyond the national boundaries. .
• Zarya, Prospekt Mira 41/43 (Just up the street from the Moscow Hotel, +7 4012 21-39-29. A trendy, upscale restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, wide selection on the menu, excellent desserts. In the same building as a movie theater.
• Steindamm 99, Zhitomirskaya ulitsa, 22, +7 401 238-84-70. 11-23, Fri-Sun 12-23. Well-designed interior, good service, fairly priced lunch menu on weekdays. .

Papasha Beppe Pizzaria, Leninsky Pr. 20/26 and Baltiiskaya Ul. 12. 11AM to 11PM. Many locals consider this to be the best thin crust and thick crust pizza in town, also a wide variety of salads, pastas, risottos, and desserts. per pizza.

Karamel, Leninsky Prospekt 30 (On the top floor of the Plaza Center; note the separate elevator to the right of the main entrance to the shopping mall., +7 4012 53-04-61. Some of the best views from the city from this cafe. Excellent food and fairly broad range of European cuisine, approximately per entree.

Razgulyai, Ploshad' Pobedy 1, +7 4012 533-689. Cafeteria-style restaurant with rustic decor. Good for children.

Solyanka Cafe, 24 Prospect Mira, +7 4012-936-203. Try the solyanka, a thick, piquant soup that is either meat-based, fish-based or vegetable-based. It is cooked with preserved cucumbers, olives, capers and tomato puree that give a strong sour-salty taste to the soup. Solyanka is perhaps one of the most popular soups besides borscht (beetroot soup) in Russia, but remains unknown beyond the national boundaries. .

Zarya, Prospekt Mira 41/43 (Just up the street from the Moscow Hotel, +7 4012 21-39-29. A trendy, upscale restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, wide selection on the menu, excellent desserts. In the same building as a movie theater.

Steindamm 99, Zhitomirskaya ulitsa, 22, +7 401 238-84-70. 11-23, Fri-Sun 12-23. Well-designed interior, good service, fairly priced lunch menu on weekdays. .

• Twelve Chairs. A very chic bohemian style cafe with a decent food menu.
• In the Shadows of the Castle. opens at 11AM. One of Kaliningrad's longest-lasting cafes.

Local beer brands that are available in stores include Ostmark and Königsberg.

• Hmel Restaurant and Brewery, Pobedi Square, 10 ('Klover' Shopping Centre, 2nd Floor, +7 4012-593-377. Live music starts at 9PM every night. A gigantic brewery on the second floor churns out home-made beer. /glass.
• Kropotkin, Teatralnaya ulitsa 30 (next to the big McDonald's near Victory Square, +7 401 266 8060. Self-made beer ( 0.5liter), probably the best in town. Try the unfiltered one. Acceptable food, cosy beerhall atmosphere and business lunch. .

Twelve Chairs. A very chic bohemian style cafe with a decent food menu.

In the Shadows of the Castle. opens at 11AM. One of Kaliningrad's longest-lasting cafes.

Hmel Restaurant and Brewery, Pobedi Square, 10 ('Klover' Shopping Centre, 2nd Floor, +7 4012-593-377. Live music starts at 9PM every night. A gigantic brewery on the second floor churns out home-made beer. /glass.

Kropotkin, Teatralnaya ulitsa 30 (next to the big McDonald's near Victory Square, +7 401 266 8060. Self-made beer ( 0.5liter), probably the best in town. Try the unfiltered one. Acceptable food, cosy beerhall atmosphere and business lunch. .

• Armenia Armenia, Kievskaya street, 23, +7 4012 681-083, +7 4012 680-022.
• Croatia Croatia, Dzherzhinskogo street, 244-A, +7 4012 60-05-55.
• Denmark Denmark, Proletarskaya street, 133, +7 4012 95-76-88.
• Germany Germany, Leningradskaya street, 4, +7 (4012) 920-218 (short-term visas), +7 (4012) 920-220 (admission), +7 (4012) 920-219 (national visas). Mon-Thu, 9AM-5PM; Fri 9AM-2PM.
• Greece Greece, Ogareva street, 33, +7 4012 93-60-27.
• Italy Italy, Chernyakhovskogo street, 6 office 108, +7 4012 53-24-32.
• Latvia Latvia, Engels street, 52-а, +7 921 107-4224, +7 411 270-6755, +7 401 256-5502, +7 8 4012 295-7441. Mon-Fri, 9AM-6PM.
• Lithuania Lithuania, Proletarskaya street, 133, +7 4012 95-7688, +7 4012 95-9486. Mon-Fri, 8-30 - 12-30.
• Netherlands Netherlands, Kutuzova street, 29, +7 4012 959-400. Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, 9-00 - 12-00.
• Norway Norway, Kashtanovaya Alley, 51, +7 (4012) 976-440, +7 (4012) 218-741 (visa issues). Mon-Fri, 8-30AM - 1-00PM.
• Poland Poland, Kashtanovaya Alley, 51, +7 (4012) 976-440, +7 (4012) 218-741 (visa issues). Mon-Fri, 9-00AM - 2-00PM.

Armenia Armenia, Kievskaya street, 23, +7 4012 681-083, +7 4012 680-022.

Croatia Croatia, Dzherzhinskogo street, 244-A, +7 4012 60-05-55.

Denmark Denmark, Proletarskaya street, 133, +7 4012 95-76-88.

Germany Germany, Leningradskaya street, 4, +7 (4012) 920-218 (short-term visas), +7 (4012) 920-220 (admission), +7 (4012) 920-219 (national visas). Mon-Thu, 9AM-5PM; Fri 9AM-2PM.

Greece Greece, Ogareva street, 33, +7 4012 93-60-27.

Italy Italy, Chernyakhovskogo street, 6 office 108, +7 4012 53-24-32.

Latvia Latvia, Engels street, 52-а, +7 921 107-4224, +7 411 270-6755, +7 401 256-5502, +7 8 4012 295-7441. Mon-Fri, 9AM-6PM.

Lithuania Lithuania, Proletarskaya street, 133, +7 4012 95-7688, +7 4012 95-9486. Mon-Fri, 8-30 - 12-30.

Netherlands Netherlands, Kutuzova street, 29, +7 4012 959-400. Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, 9-00 - 12-00.

Norway Norway, Kashtanovaya Alley, 51, +7 (4012) 976-440, +7 (4012) 218-741 (visa issues). Mon-Fri, 8-30AM - 1-00PM.

Poland Poland, Kashtanovaya Alley, 51, +7 (4012) 976-440, +7 (4012) 218-741 (visa issues). Mon-Fri, 9-00AM - 2-00PM.

• Estonia Estonia, Proletarskaya street, 133, +7 4012 95-7688, +7 4012 95-9486. Mon-Fri, 8-30 - 12-30.
• Hungary SloveniaHungary and Slovenia, Engels street, 52-а, +7 921 107-4224, +7 411 270-6755, +7 401 256-5502, +7 8 4012 295-7441. Mon-Fri, 9AM-6PM.
• Sweden Sweden, Kashtanovaya Alley, 51, +7 (4012) 976-440, +7 (4012) 218-741 (visa issues). Mon-Fri, 9AM - 2PM.

Estonia Estonia, Proletarskaya street, 133, +7 4012 95-7688, +7 4012 95-9486. Mon-Fri, 8-30 - 12-30.

Hungary SloveniaHungary and Slovenia, Engels street, 52-а, +7 921 107-4224, +7 411 270-6755, +7 401 256-5502, +7 8 4012 295-7441. Mon-Fri, 9AM-6PM.

Sweden Sweden, Kashtanovaya Alley, 51, +7 (4012) 976-440, +7 (4012) 218-741 (visa issues). Mon-Fri, 9AM - 2PM.

• Curonian Spit A nearly 50-km-long spit stretching between Zelenogradsk and the Lithuanian border, separating the Baltic Sea from the Curonian Bay, it includes pine forest, hiking paths (beware of encephalitis-bearing ticks), and beaches. The average height of the sand dunes is 35m, with some reaching to 70m high. Entry fees are per person, plus per car. The entire spit, including the Lithuanian part, is a world heritage site.