Kandy

Kandy is in the centre of Sri Lanka 125 km away from Colombo and is generally recognised as the island nation's cultural capital. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

This is the last kingdom of the country. Since it was conquered by the British only around 1815 you can still see the living traditions. Kandyans are usually proud of their heritage. Since the western elements has played a comparatively little role in the city most Kandyans uphold Buddhist values. Since it is in the cultural triangle the authorities try to retain this values as much as possible. Situation had changed recently because of many immigrants coming from other parts of the country. So don't expect to find the honest Kandyans they describe in the colonial literature now. Be careful with your belongings and the people whom you associate with. But this is a peaceful city compared to most other parts of the country with a lesser crime rate.

• Temple of the Tooth, +94 812234226. Dawn to dusk. It houses a tooth relic of the Lord Buddha, and is consequently considered one of Sri Lanka's most holy shrines. Although you may not view the actual tooth itself, the casket within which it is said to be is displayed twice a day. The first is at 5:30AM and the second which could be the best time to view this ornate casket is around 6:30PM. Besides, Sri Dalada Maligawa museum can be found on its second and third floor. Rs 2,000 (since Jan 2017) for foreigners and 500 for South Asian passport holders.
• Royal Palace of Kandy. Till 16:30. It now houses archeological museum. Entrance fee included into Temple of the Tooth ticket.
• World Buddhist Museum, Sri Dalada Maligawa, +94 81 2 234226. 8AM-6:30PM. World's first International Buddhist Museum. Entrance fee included into Temple of the Tooth ticket.
• Raja Museum, Temple Square. 8AM–6PM. Entrance fee included into Temple of the Tooth ticket.
• St. Paul Church.
• National Museum of Kandy, +94 81 2223867. Houses an interesting collection of Sri Lankan relics. It is usually quiet and the museum workers are more than happy to provide a free tour. Rs 500, and Rs 250 for a photography permit.
• Queen's Bath.
• British Garrison Cemetery. Here lie the remains of several dozen, mostly British, soldiers who died from various causes during the colonial era. The cemetery is extremely well-maintained by its caretaker, who will gladly complement some of the more fascinating tombstones with a little back-story. Entrance is free.
• Bahirawakanda temple, Bahirawakanda Lane, Mulgampola. The ominipresent Buddha statue seen from everywhere in Kandy city. Take a tuk tuk ride to the Temple or walk, just 1 km away from the Kandy city. The way to the temple may not be easy to locate, you might have to take a three wheeler or ask a local, when in doubt just walk up and follow the colourful Buddhist flags over the road. This Buddha statue is best viewed from far away. Once you get onto the premises it is no longer easy to see. Plus it is not a very peaceful place as temples go.
  Buddha statue high is 88 feet (26.8 m) and it's on the top of a hill about 850 feet (259 m) from the city level. Rs 250.
• Udawattakele Royal Forest Sanctuary. 7AM–6PM. The forest was planned and maintained as the part of the Royal palace complex of the Sinhala Kings. A patch of tropical rain forest still survives and if you don't come across it, it is still a wonderful walk. You are guaranteed to come across plenty of monkeys and some tranquil ponds. Wear long trousers after rain, and take some salt as there are lots of leeches about. Foreigners Rs 650.

• Arthur's Seat Viewpoint, Keerthi Sri Rajashinge Mawatha. It offers panoramic view of Kandy and its artificial lake.
• Royal Palace Park. Small little park with pond with dozens of kissing couples who try to hide from everybody else under their umbrellas. Foreigners Rs 100.
• Sangaraja Temple.

Arthur's Seat Viewpoint, Keerthi Sri Rajashinge Mawatha. It offers panoramic view of Kandy and its artificial lake.

Royal Palace Park. Small little park with pond with dozens of kissing couples who try to hide from everybody else under their umbrellas. Foreigners Rs 100.

Sangaraja Temple.

Peradeniya — is a big Kandy's suburb 5 km away from it. A lot of local buses go there from Kandy, for instance bus #644 departs from Kandy's clock-tower bus stop, Rs 15 (as of Dec 2016). Tuk tuk costs Rs 400-500 for foreigners (2016).

• Royal Botanical Garden in Peradeniya, Peradeniya Rd, +94 81 2 388088. 7:30AM–6PM, ticket counter closes 1 hour earlier. The best botanical garden in Sri Lanka and one of the best in the region. It dates back to the ancient kings of the country although the British changed the look of it. The British are said to have used the gardens to grow trees that could not be grown at south-west London Kew gardens. The large banyan tree, the orchid house, the suspension bridge, and the bats are some of the main attractions.Take bus No 724 from the clock tower. Foreigners Rs 1,500, students Rs 1,000.
• New Ranweli Spice Garden, +94 77-1351931. It is a place to see and learn about Sri Lankan spices and herbs. After seeing around the garden (which consists of no more than of 10 plants), spices can also be purchased as a souvenir,but there is no obligation to buy. It is much easier to visit New Ranweli Spice Garden for those who visit Peradeniya Botanical Garden. Simply take the suspension bridge inside the botanical garden and make it to the other side of the river, take the road (Gannoruwa Muruthalawa RD) right opposite the suspension bridge, from there it is just around 800 m to New Ranweli Spice Garden. Entrance free/free pick up service from any destination within Kandy and Peradeniya for foreigners.
• University of Peradeniya. The second university of Sri Lanka, established in 1942 in affiliation with former 'The University of Ceylon'. This has the largest university library in South Asia which is seven storyed. Tremendous beauty of this university has been appreciated over decades. Off the university bounds, Hanthana mountains can be hiked. On the opposite side, largest river of Sri Lanka, the River Mahaweli flows. The beauty of site can be markedly seen in March–April season.
• Commonwealth War Cemetery, Deveni (2nd) Rajasinghe mawatha down by the Mahaweli riverside. Formerly known as Pitakande Military Cemetery, it is one of the most beautifully landscaped and maintained war cemeteries in the world. There is one Commonwealth burial of the World War I and a further 196 Commonwealth burials of the World War II commemorated in the cemetery. In addition there are four Foreign National and two non world war burials. The range of nationalities laid to rest comes from the records of the War cemetery, and include 107 Britons, 35 East Africans, 26 Sri Lankans, 23 Indians, six Canadians, three Italians and one Frenchman.

Royal Botanical Garden in Peradeniya, Peradeniya Rd, +94 81 2 388088. 7:30AM–6PM, ticket counter closes 1 hour earlier. The best botanical garden in Sri Lanka and one of the best in the region. It dates back to the ancient kings of the country although the British changed the look of it. The British are said to have used the gardens to grow trees that could not be grown at south-west London Kew gardens. The large banyan tree, the orchid house, the suspension bridge, and the bats are some of the main attractions.Take bus No 724 from the clock tower. Foreigners Rs 1,500, students Rs 1,000.

New Ranweli Spice Garden, +94 77-1351931. It is a place to see and learn about Sri Lankan spices and herbs. After seeing around the garden (which consists of no more than of 10 plants), spices can also be purchased as a souvenir,but there is no obligation to buy. It is much easier to visit New Ranweli Spice Garden for those who visit Peradeniya Botanical Garden. Simply take the suspension bridge inside the botanical garden and make it to the other side of the river, take the road (Gannoruwa Muruthalawa RD) right opposite the suspension bridge, from there it is just around 800 m to New Ranweli Spice Garden. Entrance free/free pick up service from any destination within Kandy and Peradeniya for foreigners.

University of Peradeniya. The second university of Sri Lanka, established in 1942 in affiliation with former 'The University of Ceylon'. This has the largest university library in South Asia which is seven storyed. Tremendous beauty of this university has been appreciated over decades. Off the university bounds, Hanthana mountains can be hiked. On the opposite side, largest river of Sri Lanka, the River Mahaweli flows. The beauty of site can be markedly seen in March–April season.

Commonwealth War Cemetery, Deveni (2nd) Rajasinghe mawatha down by the Mahaweli riverside. Formerly known as Pitakande Military Cemetery, it is one of the most beautifully landscaped and maintained war cemeteries in the world. There is one Commonwealth burial of the World War I and a further 196 Commonwealth burials of the World War II commemorated in the cemetery. In addition there are four Foreign National and two non world war burials. The range of nationalities laid to rest comes from the records of the War cemetery, and include 107 Britons, 35 East Africans, 26 Sri Lankans, 23 Indians, six Canadians, three Italians and one Frenchman.

• Ceylon Tea Museum, Hantana Rd, +94 81 3 803204. Tu-Su 8:30AM-3:45PM, it closes 45 minutes earlier on Sundays. The ancient Tea Factory of Hantana Estate located 5 km away from Kandy has been converted into a museum dedicated to the history of Sri Lankan tea, run by the Sri Lanka Tea Board. Museum excursion takes about 15 minutes and finishes with cup of complimentary tea, after everybody is thrown into a tea shop with quite inflated prices. Foreigner adult Rs 750, children Rs 400.
• Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, +94 35 2 265284. 8:30AM–6PM. It has about seventy semi-tame elephants roaming freely around this wonderful sanctuary. Feeding and bathing times are especially enjoyable. You can either hire a taxi to take you there or, if travelling on a budget, get a bus to Kegalle (about an hour away) for about Rs 40, asking the driver to drop you off at the turn for Pinnewala which is 5 km or so before you reach the town, and catch another local bus for the last 6 km or so. Definitely worth the trip especially if you have children. Foreigners adult Rs 2500, children Rs 1250.
• Gadaladeniya Temple, Gadaladeniya Junction, Daulagala-Pilimathalawa Rd, +94 71 761 9036.
• Wattarantenna Purana Gal Len Temple, +94 81 2 233208.
• Embekka Temple, Embekka Pilimatalawa Road, Embekka.
• Dodanwala Devalaya Temple.
• Degaldoruwa Temple, Sirimalwatta, +94 71 364 2765.
• Hindagala Temple, Hindagala.
• Madawala Rajamaha Temple, Katugastota - Madawala - Bambarella Rd, Madawala.
• Galmaduwa Temple.

Ceylon Tea Museum, Hantana Rd, +94 81 3 803204. Tu-Su 8:30AM-3:45PM, it closes 45 minutes earlier on Sundays. The ancient Tea Factory of Hantana Estate located 5 km away from Kandy has been converted into a museum dedicated to the history of Sri Lankan tea, run by the Sri Lanka Tea Board. Museum excursion takes about 15 minutes and finishes with cup of complimentary tea, after everybody is thrown into a tea shop with quite inflated prices. Foreigner adult Rs 750, children Rs 400.

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, +94 35 2 265284. 8:30AM–6PM. It has about seventy semi-tame elephants roaming freely around this wonderful sanctuary. Feeding and bathing times are especially enjoyable. You can either hire a taxi to take you there or, if travelling on a budget, get a bus to Kegalle (about an hour away) for about Rs 40, asking the driver to drop you off at the turn for Pinnewala which is 5 km or so before you reach the town, and catch another local bus for the last 6 km or so. Definitely worth the trip especially if you have children. Foreigners adult Rs 2500, children Rs 1250.

Gadaladeniya Temple, Gadaladeniya Junction, Daulagala-Pilimathalawa Rd, +94 71 761 9036.

Wattarantenna Purana Gal Len Temple, +94 81 2 233208.

Embekka Temple, Embekka Pilimatalawa Road, Embekka.

Dodanwala Devalaya Temple.

Degaldoruwa Temple, Sirimalwatta, +94 71 364 2765.

Hindagala Temple, Hindagala.

Madawala Rajamaha Temple, Katugastota - Madawala - Bambarella Rd, Madawala.

Galmaduwa Temple.

Temple of the Tooth, +94 812234226. Dawn to dusk. It houses a tooth relic of the Lord Buddha, and is consequently considered one of Sri Lanka's most holy shrines. Although you may not view the actual tooth itself, the casket within which it is said to be is displayed twice a day. The first is at 5:30AM and the second which could be the best time to view this ornate casket is around 6:30PM. Besides, Sri Dalada Maligawa museum can be found on its second and third floor. Rs 2,000 (since Jan 2017) for foreigners and 500 for South Asian passport holders.

Royal Palace of Kandy. Till 16:30. It now houses archeological museum. Entrance fee included into Temple of the Tooth ticket.

World Buddhist Museum, Sri Dalada Maligawa, +94 81 2 234226. 8AM-6:30PM. World's first International Buddhist Museum. Entrance fee included into Temple of the Tooth ticket.

Raja Museum, Temple Square. 8AM–6PM. Entrance fee included into Temple of the Tooth ticket.

St. Paul Church.

National Museum of Kandy, +94 81 2223867. Houses an interesting collection of Sri Lankan relics. It is usually quiet and the museum workers are more than happy to provide a free tour. Rs 500, and Rs 250 for a photography permit.

Queen's Bath.

British Garrison Cemetery. Here lie the remains of several dozen, mostly British, soldiers who died from various causes during the colonial era. The cemetery is extremely well-maintained by its caretaker, who will gladly complement some of the more fascinating tombstones with a little back-story. Entrance is free.

Bahirawakanda temple, Bahirawakanda Lane, Mulgampola. The ominipresent Buddha statue seen from everywhere in Kandy city. Take a tuk tuk ride to the Temple or walk, just 1 km away from the Kandy city. The way to the temple may not be easy to locate, you might have to take a three wheeler or ask a local, when in doubt just walk up and follow the colourful Buddhist flags over the road. This Buddha statue is best viewed from far away. Once you get onto the premises it is no longer easy to see. Plus it is not a very peaceful place as temples go.
Buddha statue high is 88 feet (26.8 m) and it's on the top of a hill about 850 feet (259 m) from the city level. Rs 250.

Udawattakele Royal Forest Sanctuary. 7AM–6PM. The forest was planned and maintained as the part of the Royal palace complex of the Sinhala Kings. A patch of tropical rain forest still survives and if you don't come across it, it is still a wonderful walk. You are guaranteed to come across plenty of monkeys and some tranquil ponds. Wear long trousers after rain, and take some salt as there are lots of leeches about. Foreigners Rs 650.

• Kandyan dancing — traditional form of dancing, which can be seen in the "Kandy Cultural Centre" near the Kandy lake.
• Buddhist Publication Society, 54 Sangharaja Mawatha (near the lake, +94 81 2 237283. M-Sa 9AM–4:30PM. You can participate in discussions about Buddhism, meditation or you can buy some introductory materials about Buddhism.
• Nilambe Meditation Centre, Galaha (take a Galaha bus passing Peradeniya. Get down from Nilambe "office junction". A Buddhist retreat which offers experiences of a monastic lifestyle. You can engage in daily activities including yoga classes, meditation and discussions.
• Asgiriya International Cricket Stadium, +94 77 226 9192. If there's a cricket match on, spend a day at the Asgiriya Stadium, possibly the world's prettiest test match venue, and certainly the only one that for most of the year is simply a school sports ground (Trinity College).

• Within the Kandy city the short walk of Asgiri Maha Viharaya via Bahirawakande hill is an interesting.
• Udawattakelle forest reserve has lots of treks.
• The secret Walkers Forest upper Hantane trek is on special permission from the Municipal Council of Kandy.
• The famous Western Shrines of Kandy Gadaladeniya, Lankathilake temples and Embakke shrine are connected by a very scenic footpath.
• Other part of the west of Kandy, a part of Portuguese War Route, via Ihalakotte railway station to Dodanwala Devale shrine is passing forest reserves, Alagalle Mountain, tea estates and kandyan traditional villages.
• East of Kandy city the temples of Gangaramaya, Galmaduwa, Degaldoruwa are all well known for paintings, sculptures and architectural techniques.
• Knuckles Mountain Range and its forest trails are the most suitable for trekking in Sri Lanka.
• South of Kandy the longest rice field scenery of the island, Lamasuriyagama the rice field was belonging to royal court of Kandy a spectacular trek. It is undisturbed from electricity wires for photographs and with terrace rice fields by a Loggaloya river with watch huts of farmers. Loggaloya riverine forest trail to Victoria – Randenigala – Rantambe sanctuary is also a very interesting trekking.

• Perahera is the most famous festival in Kandy and one of the biggest festivals in Asia. It usually takes place in August and lasts 10 days. The intensity, duration as well as number of participants (>1000) and elephants increases from day to day. The last five days are most intense with the last day being the longest and craziest procession. It's a pageant where many elephants participate (maybe 50-70). Many elephants will show behavioural disorders and will be led by their mahouts. Specially trained local vets and international doctors will be present.

You can buy expensive seats or can see it with the crowd. Buy a seat from the Queens hotel, which costs around US$40. Buy the tickets from the officials as otherwise through middlemen you will be paying exorbitant prices. Seats in restaurants or cafes on the route will cost around Rs 5000, touts on the street will approach you. People sitting in the street line up early, around midday in front of Queens Hotel and around 4-5pm at other places along the route. Come early to secure a spot. People sit during the whole procession and it standing up is discouraged. Locals usually have a sheet to mark their "spot" and buy food/drinks from the many street vendors.

The perahera starts around 7:30PM (the second cannon shot indicates the start of the procession) and can last well over three hours. A typical procession from one of the last five days consists of dancers, musicians, artists and elephants, separates into five distinct groups (one for each temple). A massive array of police will be present. Special forces will search for explosives before procession.

Perahera is the most famous festival in Kandy and one of the biggest festivals in Asia. It usually takes place in August and lasts 10 days. The intensity, duration as well as number of participants (>1000) and elephants increases from day to day. The last five days are most intense with the last day being the longest and craziest procession. It's a pageant where many elephants participate (maybe 50-70). Many elephants will show behavioural disorders and will be led by their mahouts. Specially trained local vets and international doctors will be present.

Kandyan dancing — traditional form of dancing, which can be seen in the "Kandy Cultural Centre" near the Kandy lake.

Buddhist Publication Society, 54 Sangharaja Mawatha (near the lake, +94 81 2 237283. M-Sa 9AM–4:30PM. You can participate in discussions about Buddhism, meditation or you can buy some introductory materials about Buddhism.

Nilambe Meditation Centre, Galaha (take a Galaha bus passing Peradeniya. Get down from Nilambe "office junction". A Buddhist retreat which offers experiences of a monastic lifestyle. You can engage in daily activities including yoga classes, meditation and discussions.

Asgiriya International Cricket Stadium, +94 77 226 9192. If there's a cricket match on, spend a day at the Asgiriya Stadium, possibly the world's prettiest test match venue, and certainly the only one that for most of the year is simply a school sports ground (Trinity College).

• Laksala, Sangaraja Mawatha. State owned handicraft shop. You will be able to buy a lot of genuine handicrafts made by traditional artisans (don't be deceived by the fake products available with most tourist shops).
• Kandy City Centre, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe Mawatha, +94 81 2 202850. 9AM–8PM. Ultra modern shopping complex opened in 2009 with space for over 400 shops. By the time of its opening it is the country's most modern and biggest shopping complex.
• Waruna Antiques, 761 Peradeniya Rd (10 minutes from Kandy, Old Peradeniya Road, +94 777710013. 9AM. Kandyan masks, jewellery, coins, plates, textiles, etc.
• Kandy Art Association, 72 Sangaraja Mawatha (almost at the rear end of the Maligawa Temple of the Tooth Relic and can be reached by walking along the lake road from the "Ulpenge" situated at the Southern entrance, +94 81 2223100. 9AM-5:30PM. Visitors can see how these articles are made. This is a centre for traditional arts and crafts with a government-sponsored sales room and fixed prices. Entrance free.
• Upali Jayakody Batiks, No.192/2, Dharmashoka Mawatha, Lewella, +94 777833938. High quality modern batik.
• Central Market. M-F 8AM–5PM. Stocking the same range of foods, spices, herbal tonics, crafts, textiles and factory-reject designer-brand clothing, it caters to the locals and is government run so there is one price and it is 200-300% cheaper than the tourist shops. Sri Lanka is known for its fabulous spices in diversity, quantity and quality. Cardamon and cinnamon, nutmeg and chili, pepper and turmeric and amazing smelling vanilla.

Laksala, Sangaraja Mawatha. State owned handicraft shop. You will be able to buy a lot of genuine handicrafts made by traditional artisans (don't be deceived by the fake products available with most tourist shops).

Kandy City Centre, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe Mawatha, +94 81 2 202850. 9AM–8PM. Ultra modern shopping complex opened in 2009 with space for over 400 shops. By the time of its opening it is the country's most modern and biggest shopping complex.

Waruna Antiques, 761 Peradeniya Rd (10 minutes from Kandy, Old Peradeniya Road, +94 777710013. 9AM. Kandyan masks, jewellery, coins, plates, textiles, etc.

Kandy Art Association, 72 Sangaraja Mawatha (almost at the rear end of the Maligawa Temple of the Tooth Relic and can be reached by walking along the lake road from the "Ulpenge" situated at the Southern entrance, +94 81 2223100. 9AM-5:30PM. Visitors can see how these articles are made. This is a centre for traditional arts and crafts with a government-sponsored sales room and fixed prices. Entrance free.

Upali Jayakody Batiks, No.192/2, Dharmashoka Mawatha, Lewella, +94 777833938. High quality modern batik.

Central Market. M-F 8AM–5PM. Stocking the same range of foods, spices, herbal tonics, crafts, textiles and factory-reject designer-brand clothing, it caters to the locals and is government run so there is one price and it is 200-300% cheaper than the tourist shops. Sri Lanka is known for its fabulous spices in diversity, quantity and quality. Cardamon and cinnamon, nutmeg and chili, pepper and turmeric and amazing smelling vanilla.

• Green Leaf Hotel and Bakers, De Soyza Lane (near corner of Yatinuwara Lane. Great local eatery just one block back from the main street. Full range of rottis, rice and curry and hoppers (evening only). Good service and very affordable prices.
• White House. For Sri Lanken short meals. Good quality food and inexpensive.
• Bakehouse. For snacks or traditional Sri Lankan meals. Scenic view of the City, from its first floor balcony, where they serve a Sri Lankan buffet, but this tends to sell out by about 19:30.
• Devon Restaurant. Famous for quality snacks. Captain's Table is upstairs FROM Devons. Good Sri Lankan and South Indian food.
• Avanhala. Good food and best scenery.
• Sriram Indian Restaurant. Offers nice south Indian food.
• Flower Song Chinese Restaurant. It sells excellent Chinese food with huge portions of rice or noodles. It's clean, air-conditioned, and serves beers and wines.
• Dog Lovers. Good quality Western short meals available here with fair prices and high quality. Located in Peradeniya Road Kandy, just off Hindu Vidyalaya.
• Dinemore. Just opposite to the Anniewatta tunnel. On the top of Nihal's Super. Good quality Mid-Eastern and South-Indian food for affordable prices.
• Lyons. Restaurant located in front of the Hindu Kovil. Serves good quality food, both Western and Eastern.
• The Empire cafe. Located just near the Temple of the tooth serves good wraps and western and eastern food in a nice environment.

Green Leaf Hotel and Bakers, De Soyza Lane (near corner of Yatinuwara Lane. Great local eatery just one block back from the main street. Full range of rottis, rice and curry and hoppers (evening only). Good service and very affordable prices.

White House. For Sri Lanken short meals. Good quality food and inexpensive.

Bakehouse. For snacks or traditional Sri Lankan meals. Scenic view of the City, from its first floor balcony, where they serve a Sri Lankan buffet, but this tends to sell out by about 19:30.

Devon Restaurant. Famous for quality snacks. Captain's Table is upstairs FROM Devons. Good Sri Lankan and South Indian food.

Avanhala. Good food and best scenery.

Sriram Indian Restaurant. Offers nice south Indian food.

Flower Song Chinese Restaurant. It sells excellent Chinese food with huge portions of rice or noodles. It's clean, air-conditioned, and serves beers and wines.

Dog Lovers. Good quality Western short meals available here with fair prices and high quality. Located in Peradeniya Road Kandy, just off Hindu Vidyalaya.

Dinemore. Just opposite to the Anniewatta tunnel. On the top of Nihal's Super. Good quality Mid-Eastern and South-Indian food for affordable prices.

Lyons. Restaurant located in front of the Hindu Kovil. Serves good quality food, both Western and Eastern.

The Empire cafe. Located just near the Temple of the tooth serves good wraps and western and eastern food in a nice environment.

• There are two popular bars on the main street (Dalada Vidaya), The Pub and The Pub Royale. The former serves quite good (but pricey, perhaps R700/-) meals, has a large screen for sports inside and a 1st floor outside verandah.
• There are a number of cheap bars (Rs 100 or less for a 650 ml bottle of beer) scattered throughout the sidestreets near the town centre. They can be rather seedy and unaccompanied women could be made to feel very uncomfortable. (Usually Local women do not drink)
• Victory Hotel, 79 Colombo Road This bar is a great way to see real Sri Lankans and what they do, downstairs is full of locals knocking back Arrack the atmosphere may be less than salubrious, in fact it gives the Sidney Hotel, Galle a run for its money, but the people are friendly. Upstairs is slightly less dingy as it serves food, Arrack starts at Rs 700, beer Rs 195 and a cigarette from a waiter Rs 30.

There are two popular bars on the main street (Dalada Vidaya), The Pub and The Pub Royale. The former serves quite good (but pricey, perhaps R700/-) meals, has a large screen for sports inside and a 1st floor outside verandah.

• Kandy Tourist Police.

Major Hospitals and health care centres:

• General Hospital Kandy, +94 81 2222261.
• Teaching Hospital - Peradeniya, +94 81 2388001.
• Sirimavo Bandaranaike Specialised Children's Hospital - Peradeniya.
• Suwasewana Hospital, 532, Peradeniya Rd, +94 81 2222404.

General Hospital Kandy, +94 81 2222261.

Teaching Hospital - Peradeniya, +94 81 2388001.

Sirimavo Bandaranaike Specialised Children's Hospital - Peradeniya.

Suwasewana Hospital, 532, Peradeniya Rd, +94 81 2222404.

• India High Commission of India, 31, Rajapihilla Mawatha, +94 81 2222652, +94 81 2223786.

India High Commission of India, 31, Rajapihilla Mawatha, +94 81 2222652, +94 81 2223786.

Kandy Tourist Police.

• Dambulla is 60 km north of Kandy and air-con buses to Dambulla costs 150 LKR. With a driver it is possible to do a day trip to Sigiriya (2.5 hour from Kandy)- Dambulla - Matale.
• Knuckles Mountain Range and its forest trails are the most suitable for trekking in Sri Lanka. It has many nature trails cleared trough the forest by forest department with campsites.
• Matale is 25 km north of Kandy and connected by train
• Take the scenic train to Ella (or stop at Nuwara Eliya or Haputale along the way)