Khabarovsk

Khabarovsk or Chabarovsk (Russian: Хаба́ровск, khah-BAH-ruhvsk) is a city on the Amur river in the Russian Far East, near the Chinese border. Often overlooked due to its proximity to Vladivostok, Khabarovsk could easily be a highlight in the long line of predominately dull cities along the Trans-Siberian Railway. But while most cities look their best when the sun is out, in few is the effect as profound as in Khabarovsk – attractive parks, beaches, outdoor beer tents with live music, pretty girls promenading and classic architecture await if the weather gods favour you. Even if you are unfortunate, it's not a loss to go indoors: the city also houses some of the best museums east of Moscow.

Overlooking the confluence of the Amur and Ussuri Rivers, Khabarovsk is the second largest city in the Russian Far East, approaching 600.000 residents and growing. It is also the capital of both Khabarovsk Krai and the Far Eastern Federal District. Unlike Vladivostok, the city has never been closed to foreigners, and retains a distinct international feel, rare for the Russian provincial centers – a feeling propped up by an increasing Asian presence with arrivals from Asian countries now numbering over a million each year. In turn, Asians come here to experience a piece of Europe close to home, with the fortunate effect that the city is spending huge swaths of money renovating the city, in which old classical buildings were spared much of the destructive effects of the 1917-23 civil war, to provide its visitors with just that feeling. From a European's perspective, Soviet city planning has unmistakably taken its toll, but it is still far more attractive than your average Siberian city.

The climate is temperate and monsoonal, with a cold, dry winter and a hot and humid summer. The average temperature for a full year is just 2°C, but covers over wide span of monthly averages ranging from a bone chilling −20°C in January to a quite warm +21°C average in July. The city sees an average of 686 mm precipitation in a year, but unfortunately the lions' share falls in the warm summer months. The number of sunny days per year is 70, which is higher than Moscow's 54. Climate-wise, end of May - early June or end of August - early September are the best time for a visit.

The lands near the confluence of the Ussury and the Amur, where today's Khabarovsk stands, have been populated for centuries by the indigenous Tungusic people. Chinese expeditions reached this area as early as the first half of the 15th century, and in the mid-17th century the Amur Valley became the scene of hostilities between the Russian Cossacks, trying to expand into the region, and the rising Manchu Qing Dynasty, bent on securing the region for itself. Nearly a century of skirmishes between the Chinese, Koreans and Cossacks followed, one of those involving Russian explorer Yerofey Khabarov, whose name the city later adapted. The Treaty of Nerchinsk (1689) brought the conflict to a close and made the area an undisputed part of the Chinese Qing Empire. According to French Jesuits mapping the Ussury and the Amur rivers in 1709, the future site of Khabarovsk was known to the Chinese as Yupi Dazi ("Fishskin Tartars").

In 1858, the area was ceded to Russia under the Treaty of Aigun. The Russians founded the military outpost of Khabarovka (Хаба́ровка), which subsequently became an important industrial centre for the region. The Russian Geographical Society then began founding libraries, theaters, and museums in the growing city. Since then, Khabarovsk's cultural life has flourished. Much of the local indigenous history has been well-preserved in the Regional Lore Museum and Natural History Museum and in places like near the Nanai settlement of Sikhachi-Alyan, where cliff drawings from more than 1,300 years ago can be found.

The Trans-Siberian first reached Khabarovsk from Vladivostok in 1897, while the complete railway to Moscow did not see completion until 1913. Three years later, the Khabarovsk Bridge across the Amur was completed, allowing Trans-Siberian trains to cross the river without using ferries. The city was occupied by the Japanese for much of the Russian Civil War, which may offer some explanation to the many old buildings still standing around the city center.

There is a fantastic cluster of top notch museums along Shevchenko Street, just behind the tall blue-domed Church of Theotokos on Komsomolskaya Square towards the river and stadium. Not only are the museums some of the best in the far east, they also make their home in some impressive century-old buildings dating back to before the revolution. After a visit, the nice river promenade is just a short walk away, so you can wash all that new found knowledge away with some pivos in good company.

• Far East Regional Museum, 11 Shevchenko St, +7 4212 312 054. 10:00-18:00. One of the oldest museums in the Russian far east, laid out in 6 sections in an impressive 1894 red-brick building. For the most part it's leaps and bounds ahead of the region's other museums, and with nearly half a million artifacts in the collection, they can afford to be picky about what they display. The ethnographic section with displays of indigenous cultures from around the Amur is unusually informative, but the zoology section is also worth a look, stuffed animals galore! To top it off, it has actually seen some substantial renovations lately, and they even have a few English captions here and there. May be worth considering but the price for foreigners is high for what you see. .
• Far Eastern Art Museum, 7 Shevchenko St, +7 4212 328 338. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Established in the 1930s and now housed in the building of a former officers' club. Them seem to take most pride in their collection of Far Eastern aboriginal art, but they also have a rare collection of ancient Russian religious icons and Japanese porcelain. In the classic exhibition they have a few painters you may have heard of like Titian and Garofalo, but also some lesser known Russian masters. Foreigners.
• Far Eastern Military Museum, 20 Shevchenko St (across from the Art Museum, +7 4212 326 350. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Another impressive building from the turn of the 20th century, this one was the state bank up until the 1930s. Weapons galore propped up by medals and other memorabilia. If you are not interested in these sort of things, you can probably give it a miss, but they have a few cool war propaganda posters from the Great Patriotic War and a luxury officers' railway carriage from the 1920s in the courtyard, if you need to entertain yourself for a while while any male company goes into boy mode.

Tugged away just across the next street behind the military museum, you also find the Archeology Museum on Turgeneva street.

• Museum of Archaeology, 86 Turgeneva St, +7 4212 324 177. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Part of the regional museum but located in a attractive separate building which, before the October revolution got him, was owned by the owner of a local brewery. Finds from the dawn of man up until the middle ages. Their collection of ancient ceramics is interesting, and the Sikachi-Alyan petroglyphs and Sheremetyevsky inscription replicas are also worth a look.

Far East Regional Museum, 11 Shevchenko St, +7 4212 312 054. 10:00-18:00. One of the oldest museums in the Russian far east, laid out in 6 sections in an impressive 1894 red-brick building. For the most part it's leaps and bounds ahead of the region's other museums, and with nearly half a million artifacts in the collection, they can afford to be picky about what they display. The ethnographic section with displays of indigenous cultures from around the Amur is unusually informative, but the zoology section is also worth a look, stuffed animals galore! To top it off, it has actually seen some substantial renovations lately, and they even have a few English captions here and there. May be worth considering but the price for foreigners is high for what you see. .

Far Eastern Art Museum, 7 Shevchenko St, +7 4212 328 338. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Established in the 1930s and now housed in the building of a former officers' club. Them seem to take most pride in their collection of Far Eastern aboriginal art, but they also have a rare collection of ancient Russian religious icons and Japanese porcelain. In the classic exhibition they have a few painters you may have heard of like Titian and Garofalo, but also some lesser known Russian masters. Foreigners.

Far Eastern Military Museum, 20 Shevchenko St (across from the Art Museum, +7 4212 326 350. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Another impressive building from the turn of the 20th century, this one was the state bank up until the 1930s. Weapons galore propped up by medals and other memorabilia. If you are not interested in these sort of things, you can probably give it a miss, but they have a few cool war propaganda posters from the Great Patriotic War and a luxury officers' railway carriage from the 1920s in the courtyard, if you need to entertain yourself for a while while any male company goes into boy mode.

Museum of Archaeology, 86 Turgeneva St, +7 4212 324 177. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Part of the regional museum but located in a attractive separate building which, before the October revolution got him, was owned by the owner of a local brewery. Finds from the dawn of man up until the middle ages. Their collection of ancient ceramics is interesting, and the Sikachi-Alyan petroglyphs and Sheremetyevsky inscription replicas are also worth a look.

• Far Eastern Railway Museum, 40 Vladivostokaya St, +7 4212 383 035. M–F 09:00-17:00. A small museum which houses a previously private collection of around 2000 original artifacts, documents, models and photographs telling about the history and construction of the Far Eastern Railway.
• Fedotov Exposition Hall, 47 Karla Marksa St, +7 4212 211 154. Temporary exhibitions of professional painters, sculptures, designers and other artists from the far east. The exhibits changes monthly.
• Geological Museum, 15 Lenin St, +7 4212 215 370. 10:00-18:00. Housed in a beautiful 19th-century building, which once belonged to a prominent local merchant family. True to its name, this museum has a huge collection of rocks and minerals – some even some from outer space, like a few moon fragments brought home to Earth by automatic probes and one of the world's largest iron meteorites which crashed into the Sikhot-Ailin mountains in the 1940s. If you are not into stones, you could check out the small section on tools and equipment related to prospecting in the region or the collection of prehistoric plant and animal fossils. Outside the museum there are a few large monoliths of minerals, ores and rocks.
• Khabarovsk City History Museum, 85 Lenina St (Exit Dynamo park to the east and walk along the Platinium Arena turn right when the road ends until Lenina St, +7 4212 412 706. Actually the youngest museum in town, only opened in 2004. A small museum which details the history of Khabarovsk from its inception up until today. Covering the pre-revolutionary period, the October Revolution and the civil war in Khabarovsk, the city during World War II, and up until the Perestroika and modern Khabarovsk. The collection is mainly made up of everyday items, photographs and documents from private donations. Foreigners.

Far Eastern Railway Museum, 40 Vladivostokaya St, +7 4212 383 035. M–F 09:00-17:00. A small museum which houses a previously private collection of around 2000 original artifacts, documents, models and photographs telling about the history and construction of the Far Eastern Railway.

Fedotov Exposition Hall, 47 Karla Marksa St, +7 4212 211 154. Temporary exhibitions of professional painters, sculptures, designers and other artists from the far east. The exhibits changes monthly.

Geological Museum, 15 Lenin St, +7 4212 215 370. 10:00-18:00. Housed in a beautiful 19th-century building, which once belonged to a prominent local merchant family. True to its name, this museum has a huge collection of rocks and minerals – some even some from outer space, like a few moon fragments brought home to Earth by automatic probes and one of the world's largest iron meteorites which crashed into the Sikhot-Ailin mountains in the 1940s. If you are not into stones, you could check out the small section on tools and equipment related to prospecting in the region or the collection of prehistoric plant and animal fossils. Outside the museum there are a few large monoliths of minerals, ores and rocks.

Khabarovsk City History Museum, 85 Lenina St (Exit Dynamo park to the east and walk along the Platinium Arena turn right when the road ends until Lenina St, +7 4212 412 706. Actually the youngest museum in town, only opened in 2004. A small museum which details the history of Khabarovsk from its inception up until today. Covering the pre-revolutionary period, the October Revolution and the civil war in Khabarovsk, the city during World War II, and up until the Perestroika and modern Khabarovsk. The collection is mainly made up of everyday items, photographs and documents from private donations. Foreigners.

• The Arboretum, 71 Volochaevskaya St, +7 4212 22 34 01. May-Oct, advance reservations required. Founded in 1896 as a experimental laboratory, it was transformed into an a 12-hectare (27-acre) botanical garden in the thirties. It's a nice place for a stroll among the many trees, bushes and flowers, about 800 different kinds of them gathered from nearly every continent; some exotic medical plants also grow here.
• Cathedral of the Transfiguration, Lenina St. Christianity is alive and well in Russia, as this golden domed church towering above Khabarovsk is evidence of. Only completed in 2004, at 83 meters it's the 3rd tallest church in all of Rusia - inside it's not that impressive, just large. The monastery, or rather the Theological Seminary, right next to it is also worth a look a brief look from the outside. Opposite, facing the Amur is a war memorial "Вечный огонь" ("the eternal flame"), rather kitschy but has good Amur views. The whole thing is labeled as the Ploshchad Slavy or the Square of Glory.
• Dynamo Park, 62 Karla Marksa St (South side of Karla Marksa St, just north of Lenina square. A quite attractive park spreading over 30 hectares, immensely popular with locals on sunny days. The water ponds to the south are popular for splashing and cooling down. There are several nice, quirky statues cut from huge wooden logs dotted all over the park which can be interesting to trace down in a small treasure hunt for adults. There are also a handful of running amusements, cafés and beer gardens. Just across the street from the eastern entrance, Khabarovsk's local ice-hockey team battles it out in the premier Russian league in the Platinum arena.
• Vsevolod Sysoyev Far Eastern Zoo, 25 Pervomaiskaya St (Way out in the northern suburbs, bus number 8 all the way to the end, +7 4212 647-556. Daily 10:00-18:00. Opened in 2002, this smallish zoo have around 40 different species, mostly regional fauna like Ussuriysk bears and tigers and the Far Eastern Leopard. The zoo is named after local nature writer.

The Arboretum, 71 Volochaevskaya St, +7 4212 22 34 01. May-Oct, advance reservations required. Founded in 1896 as a experimental laboratory, it was transformed into an a 12-hectare (27-acre) botanical garden in the thirties. It's a nice place for a stroll among the many trees, bushes and flowers, about 800 different kinds of them gathered from nearly every continent; some exotic medical plants also grow here.

Cathedral of the Transfiguration, Lenina St. Christianity is alive and well in Russia, as this golden domed church towering above Khabarovsk is evidence of. Only completed in 2004, at 83 meters it's the 3rd tallest church in all of Rusia - inside it's not that impressive, just large. The monastery, or rather the Theological Seminary, right next to it is also worth a look a brief look from the outside. Opposite, facing the Amur is a war memorial "Вечный огонь" ("the eternal flame"), rather kitschy but has good Amur views. The whole thing is labeled as the Ploshchad Slavy or the Square of Glory.

Dynamo Park, 62 Karla Marksa St (South side of Karla Marksa St, just north of Lenina square. A quite attractive park spreading over 30 hectares, immensely popular with locals on sunny days. The water ponds to the south are popular for splashing and cooling down. There are several nice, quirky statues cut from huge wooden logs dotted all over the park which can be interesting to trace down in a small treasure hunt for adults. There are also a handful of running amusements, cafés and beer gardens. Just across the street from the eastern entrance, Khabarovsk's local ice-hockey team battles it out in the premier Russian league in the Platinum arena.

Vsevolod Sysoyev Far Eastern Zoo, 25 Pervomaiskaya St (Way out in the northern suburbs, bus number 8 all the way to the end, +7 4212 647-556. Daily 10:00-18:00. Opened in 2002, this smallish zoo have around 40 different species, mostly regional fauna like Ussuriysk bears and tigers and the Far Eastern Leopard. The zoo is named after local nature writer.

In addition to these listings there are also a Drama Theatre and a Children's 'Theatre, but they are probably not of much interest unless you speak Russian. Nonetheless, the city has a fairly vibrant cultural life.

• City Beach. Pictured on the right, the beach on the River Promenade just below the cathedral is hugely popular on warm summer days and packed with sunbathers — so much so that it's easy to forget you are over 300 km away from the nearest piece of coast. It is possible to take a quick dip, but stay very close to land as the current is strong, and keep in mind there are old world Chinese and Russian industries upstream. Usually there are some inflatable slides set up for kids.
• Khabarovsk Philarmony, 7 Shevchenko St. If the language of classic music is more understandable for you than the tongue of Russian artists, this is the place you might enjoy. The whole Far Eastern Orchestra and Organ performers in the downtown are all for your pleasure. The big hall of Philarmony is just the next door to the Museum of Arts and open every day.
• Gaidara Childrens' Park, 2 Leo Tolstoy St. A small amusement park opposite the large Dynamo park to the north of the center. Mainly amusements for kids, with a small roller-coaster, bouncy castles, swings etc., and a few cafés for eating. Most interesting if you have kids, but there is a gaming arcade at the north end with a bowling alley, slot machines and fusball tables for the more grown up.
• Khabarovsk Circus, 120 Krasnorechenskaya St (Gagarin Park, +7 4212 365 622. Performances: F 16:00; SaSu 12:00 & 16:00. Khabarovsk Circus had a brand new home constructed a few years back, in a impressive building in Gagerin Park. There will usually be guest performances from all over Russia or even China, as well as from a range of circus animals — including of course, bears. .
• Theatre of Musical Comedy, 64 Karla Marksa St (in Dynamo Park, +7 4212 227 021. The oldest theatre in Khabarovsk Krai performs classical and modern operettas as well as occasional comedies in a huge bombastic building in Dynamo park. The massive 900-seat hall is also the city's main concert venue.
• Triada Pantomime Theatre, 27 Lenina st, +7 4212 31 31 81. Established in the waning days of the Soviet Union, this institution has outlived communism, and is still going strong after 30 years. The name is from the Greek word for trinity, meant to signify the three purposes of Pantomime: to laugh, cry and excite, all done through simple entertaining shows that are often meant to convey a deeper philosophical idea. Besides pantomime shows, they also play comedic clown acts and traditional theatre. The hall seats around 90 people.
• Platinum Arena. The major sports and concerts center, a training base of hockey team 'Amur'. Often hosts Russian and Western music stars.

• Ice Fantasy Festival, +7 4212 628 088. Annual ice sculpting competition that has been held in January every year since 2001. Attracts some of the sculptors from the much grander and more famous Harbin festival. Worth a look if you're in town.

Ice Fantasy Festival, +7 4212 628 088. Annual ice sculpting competition that has been held in January every year since 2001. Attracts some of the sculptors from the much grander and more famous Harbin festival. Worth a look if you're in town.

City Beach. Pictured on the right, the beach on the River Promenade just below the cathedral is hugely popular on warm summer days and packed with sunbathers — so much so that it's easy to forget you are over 300 km away from the nearest piece of coast. It is possible to take a quick dip, but stay very close to land as the current is strong, and keep in mind there are old world Chinese and Russian industries upstream. Usually there are some inflatable slides set up for kids.

Khabarovsk Philarmony, 7 Shevchenko St. If the language of classic music is more understandable for you than the tongue of Russian artists, this is the place you might enjoy. The whole Far Eastern Orchestra and Organ performers in the downtown are all for your pleasure. The big hall of Philarmony is just the next door to the Museum of Arts and open every day.

Gaidara Childrens' Park, 2 Leo Tolstoy St. A small amusement park opposite the large Dynamo park to the north of the center. Mainly amusements for kids, with a small roller-coaster, bouncy castles, swings etc., and a few cafés for eating. Most interesting if you have kids, but there is a gaming arcade at the north end with a bowling alley, slot machines and fusball tables for the more grown up.

Khabarovsk Circus, 120 Krasnorechenskaya St (Gagarin Park, +7 4212 365 622. Performances: F 16:00; SaSu 12:00 & 16:00. Khabarovsk Circus had a brand new home constructed a few years back, in a impressive building in Gagerin Park. There will usually be guest performances from all over Russia or even China, as well as from a range of circus animals — including of course, bears. .

Theatre of Musical Comedy, 64 Karla Marksa St (in Dynamo Park, +7 4212 227 021. The oldest theatre in Khabarovsk Krai performs classical and modern operettas as well as occasional comedies in a huge bombastic building in Dynamo park. The massive 900-seat hall is also the city's main concert venue.

Triada Pantomime Theatre, 27 Lenina st, +7 4212 31 31 81. Established in the waning days of the Soviet Union, this institution has outlived communism, and is still going strong after 30 years. The name is from the Greek word for trinity, meant to signify the three purposes of Pantomime: to laugh, cry and excite, all done through simple entertaining shows that are often meant to convey a deeper philosophical idea. Besides pantomime shows, they also play comedic clown acts and traditional theatre. The hall seats around 90 people.

Platinum Arena. The major sports and concerts center, a training base of hockey team 'Amur'. Often hosts Russian and Western music stars.

• The Vyborg Market. 09:00-19:00. (Международный торговый центр 'Выборгский') on Vyborgskaya Street is a huge and very lively market, with not only local Russians but also a visible example of the proximity to China — many Chinese traders selling imported products of every variety under the sun, e.g. domestic appliances, toys, cutlery and clothing, from their home country. There is also a couple of huge indoor halls with locals selling fruits, vegetables and meat. It's well worth a stroll, even if you don't plan on buying anything.
• The Central Department Store, 23 Muraveva-Amur St (About halfway between Lenina Sq. and the cathedral, +7 4217 304 195. 09:00-20:00. 3 floors of high-end shopping in a nice old building, renovated inside out a couple of years back, but it's actually the oldest business in the city. Fashion, electronics, watches, perfumery and other stuff along those lines. Also has an ATM that takes international credit cards.
• Hudozhestvennye Salony, 15 Muravyov-Amursky St, +7 4212 311 921. 10:00-19:00. Means "Art salon", all Russian handicrafts slightly cheaper than its next door neighbour. Good place to get the ritual Matreshka doll purchase over and done with, since they are good quality here, though certainly not cheap. Also has a good selection of jewelery and Khokhloma items — a traditional Russian wood painting handicraft, though if you're heading west, you might want to wait for Nizhny Novgorod where they originate..
• Tainy Remesla, 17 Muravyov-Amursky St, +7 4212 327 385. 10:00-19:00. Inside the impressive old city Duma building (see picture above) is probably the best place in town to buy souvenirs, but bring a pair of pants with deep pockets, because you'll need them to buy most of what you see in the shop; art works by the far east's aboriginal peoples, Khokhloma goods, art, jewelery, stone and amber handicrafts and even toys.
• NK City, 76 Karl Marx St. 10:00-20:00. A large prestigious supermarket in the city's center located at the road junction offering a good deal of cheap food, brand clothes and electronic stuff with a 3D cinema on the 5th floor and a couple of small restaurants.

The Vyborg Market. 09:00-19:00. (Международный торговый центр 'Выборгский') on Vyborgskaya Street is a huge and very lively market, with not only local Russians but also a visible example of the proximity to China — many Chinese traders selling imported products of every variety under the sun, e.g. domestic appliances, toys, cutlery and clothing, from their home country. There is also a couple of huge indoor halls with locals selling fruits, vegetables and meat. It's well worth a stroll, even if you don't plan on buying anything.

The Central Department Store, 23 Muraveva-Amur St (About halfway between Lenina Sq. and the cathedral, +7 4217 304 195. 09:00-20:00. 3 floors of high-end shopping in a nice old building, renovated inside out a couple of years back, but it's actually the oldest business in the city. Fashion, electronics, watches, perfumery and other stuff along those lines. Also has an ATM that takes international credit cards.

Hudozhestvennye Salony, 15 Muravyov-Amursky St, +7 4212 311 921. 10:00-19:00. Means "Art salon", all Russian handicrafts slightly cheaper than its next door neighbour. Good place to get the ritual Matreshka doll purchase over and done with, since they are good quality here, though certainly not cheap. Also has a good selection of jewelery and Khokhloma items — a traditional Russian wood painting handicraft, though if you're heading west, you might want to wait for [[Nizhny Novgorod]] where they originate..

Tainy Remesla, 17 Muravyov-Amursky St, +7 4212 327 385. 10:00-19:00. Inside the impressive old city Duma building (see picture [[Khabarovsk#History|above]]) is probably the best place in town to buy souvenirs, but bring a pair of pants with deep pockets, because you'll need them to buy most of what you see in the shop; art works by the far east's aboriginal peoples, Khokhloma goods, art, jewelery, stone and amber handicrafts and even toys.

NK City, 76 Karl Marx St. 10:00-20:00. A large prestigious supermarket in the city's center located at the road junction offering a good deal of cheap food, brand clothes and electronic stuff with a 3D cinema on the 5th floor and a couple of small restaurants.

The local cuisine consists primarily of traditional Russian restaurants and different Asian-style places. Italian food is also common. However, there's a great variety of cheap fast-food outlets on the streets. Prices start from $3 for good snack to US$5–10 at the Golden Bird fast food chain. Meals in small restaurants are available for US$10–20. If money is not a concern, you can dine with a view of sunset and the Amur River at Hotel "Inturist" for US$50–100.

• Café Utyos, 15 Shevchenko St, +7 4212 399 774. The name means The Cliff in Russian, very appropriate as the restaurant is located in an unusual art nouveau building from the forties on top of the tall cliff dominating the waterfront, which used to be a lifeboat station. It has a large balcony with spectacular views of the Amur, beneath which the restaurant spreads out over two floors serving Japanese and western fare. A bit on the expensive side and the food leaves something to be desired, though dining with a grand view is the draw here. Mains.
• Chilly, 23 Leningradskaya St, +7 4212 391 919. Steaks, fish, fajitas, burritos and tacos can be washed down with tequilas at the bar, while watching Russians wearing sombreros doing the Mariachi and scantly clad (but fairly decent) girls doing latin danceshow. It can all seem a bit tacky, but hey, that's what tequilas are for, drink a few and you might end up enjoying yourself. Mains.
• Chocolate, 74 Turgeneva St (near the cathedral, +7 420 097. A stylish, modern looking cafe-like eatery with an international menu, cappuccino, and free wireless access.
• Harley Davidson motor-saloon, 5, Muravyov-Amursky st, +74212 25-49-56. Located in the historic center, this is not a biker's pub, but a full-fledged restaurant.
• Kabachok, 84, Zaparina st (Opposite the entrance of the cinema 'Gigant' in the city center, +7 4212 42-31-84. 12:00-24:00. Ukrainian restaurant. .
• R-Cafe, 52 Pushkina St (On Lenin square, +7 4212 610 233. Daily 10:00-00:00. Stylish café designed by a Moscow architect. An expansive fusion-esque menu, but they actually pull off most of the dishes quite nicely. Also works if you want a drink, although it's on the expensive side with mains going for .
• Russki Restaurant, 9 Ussuriiski Blvd, +7 7 4212 306 587. 12:00-01:00. Russki means Russian, and that is exactly what you can expect; cozy if tacky decór - Datcha (log cabin) style, complete with a Banya (costs extra), the waiters are dressed in Russian national clothes, and one of the four halls usually has live Russian folk music. Even if that's not your thing, you can't hold anything against the food: expect tasty classic Russian fare like blinis, patties, borscht, or the good sizzling sturgeon or meat served on warm stones. All can be washed down with tea from the samovar. .
• Scalini, 18 Muravyov-Amurskiy St, +7 4212 305 837. Pricey but good Italian restaurant, though the service might wind up feeling a bit pretentious out here in the far east.
• Teplan Yaki, 11, Muravyov-Amursky st, +7 4212 32-47-63. 12:00-24:00. Nice sushi-bar on the main street. Teplan. .

• Pizza Tempo, 29, Dikopoltseva St (50m from the Muravyov Amursky st. There are a lot of students from the Railway college nearby.
• Stolovaya Lozhka, 29, Dikopoltseva St (The same address as above, but right door.
• Golden Bird, 7, Muravyov Amursky st (Trade center 'Lotos', the entrance is at the left hand. McDonald's-style eatery.

Pizza Tempo, 29, Dikopoltseva St (50m from the Muravyov Amursky st. There are a lot of students from the Railway college nearby.

Stolovaya Lozhka, 29, Dikopoltseva St (The same address as above, but right door.

Golden Bird, 7, Muravyov Amursky st (Trade center 'Lotos', the entrance is at the left hand. McDonald's-style eatery.

Café Utyos, 15 Shevchenko St, +7 4212 399 774. The name means The Cliff in Russian, very appropriate as the restaurant is located in an unusual art nouveau building from the forties on top of the tall cliff dominating the waterfront, which used to be a lifeboat station. It has a large balcony with spectacular views of the Amur, beneath which the restaurant spreads out over two floors serving Japanese and western fare. A bit on the expensive side and the food leaves something to be desired, though dining with a grand view is the draw here. Mains.

Chilly, 23 Leningradskaya St, +7 4212 391 919. Steaks, fish, fajitas, burritos and tacos can be washed down with tequilas at the bar, while watching Russians wearing sombreros doing the Mariachi and scantly clad (but fairly decent) girls doing latin danceshow. It can all seem a bit tacky, but hey, that's what tequilas are for, drink a few and you might end up enjoying yourself. Mains.

Chocolate, 74 Turgeneva St (near the cathedral, +7 420 097. A stylish, modern looking cafe-like eatery with an international menu, cappuccino, and free wireless access.

Harley Davidson motor-saloon, 5, Muravyov-Amursky st, +74212 25-49-56. Located in the historic center, this is not a biker's pub, but a full-fledged restaurant.

Kabachok, 84, Zaparina st (Opposite the entrance of the cinema 'Gigant' in the city center, +7 4212 42-31-84. 12:00-24:00. Ukrainian restaurant. .

R-Cafe, 52 Pushkina St (On Lenin square, +7 4212 610 233. Daily 10:00-00:00. Stylish café designed by a Moscow architect. An expansive fusion-esque menu, but they actually pull off most of the dishes quite nicely. Also works if you want a drink, although it's on the expensive side with mains going for .

Russki Restaurant, 9 Ussuriiski Blvd, +7 7 4212 306 587. 12:00-01:00. Russki means Russian, and that is exactly what you can expect; cozy if tacky decór - Datcha (log cabin) style, complete with a Banya (costs extra), the waiters are dressed in Russian national clothes, and one of the four halls usually has live Russian folk music. Even if that's not your thing, you can't hold anything against the food: expect tasty classic Russian fare like blinis, patties, borscht, or the good sizzling sturgeon or meat served on warm stones. All can be washed down with tea from the samovar. .

Scalini, 18 Muravyov-Amurskiy St, +7 4212 305 837. Pricey but good Italian restaurant, though the service might wind up feeling a bit pretentious out here in the far east.

Teplan Yaki, 11, Muravyov-Amursky st, +7 4212 32-47-63. 12:00-24:00. Nice sushi-bar on the main street. Teplan. .

Locals will happily teach you how to drink Russian-style. People are very friendly, and in general you will find lots of locals who would love to practice their English. Don't miss an offer to visit a Russian banya (sauna) somewhere outside the city.

For the most part you should avoid the pubs and bars if weather permits, and indulge in the many beer tents instead. The River Promenade (Набережная Хабаровска) below the large cathedral is a lively place in the summer months, open air cafes in large tents, dot the promenade along the river. Most bars play different styles of music, and there is usually live music going on in one of the tents. Young crowd, and some establishments stay open till very late. This is also the starting point for a host of river boats, taking the party going crowd on short cruises down the river with loud music banging out the speakers. Dynamo Park (Парк Динамо) also has some beergarten style watering holes along long benches beneath coloured lanterns and Russian schlagers blasting out the speakers.

• Eternal, 62B Karl Marx st (City's Second Pond, +7 45-09-14. M-Th 12:00-24:00, F Sa 12:00-02:00, Su 12:00-24:00. Surrounded by water of the Pond, this is a glass-and-steel construction of two-floors with a dance-floor and a bar. Entrance fee: VIP , FC . Soft zones: . DJ service. Menu on average.
• Hospital, 3B Muravyov-Amurskiy St, +7 4212 448 427. Hottest club around, but getting in will usually prove tricky if you are not a "member", though it is doable — especially if you are an English speaking Westerner.
• Nebo Nightclub, 46 Turgenev St, 5th floor, +7 4212 613 959. Neba was a popular and spacious up-scale 3 floor club, with a large dance floor on the ground level. Authorities shut it down along with hundreds of other clubs following a deadly nightclub fire elsewhere in Russia. Owners are reopening as Nebo and seem to be back in business.
• Plastilin, 96A Karl Marx st, +7 45-43-30. Small hall but wonderful atmosphere.
• Pleasure, 28 Leningradskaya St, +7 47-77-77. F Sa 23:00-06:00. Two-floor spacious club with three bars, VIP, and proposed terrace on the roof.
• Pool Bar, 2A Lenina St, +7 4212 227 523. 13:00-03:00. The most popular bar in the city and the oldest one. Popular with foreigners and not crazily expensive. Pint of Heineken . As you might have guessed from the name, it has pool tables.
• Velicano, 67A Zaparina St, +7 4212 326 390. Th & Su 21:00-03:00, F Sa 21:00-06:00. It's a bit Russian, but nice nonetheless. Two dance floors and competent bartenders. Cover charge.

• Shokoladnitsa at 69, Lenina st. and 44, Muravyov-Amursky st. 08:00-24:00. All-Russian brand cafes offering a variety of coffee and chocolate drinks.
• Cafe Coffee is one more network to relax in town. Addresses: 43, Karl Marx st. and 64, Komsomolskaya st.
• Sense Café, 22a Postysheva St, +7 4212 452 010. Cafe which serves a descent coffee, and also works if you want a bite, all while you browse their free wifi. Sometimes there is live music to accompany your drink.
• Rock-bar 'Garage', 15 Volochayevskata St. M Th Su 12:00-2:00, F Sa 12:00-.... Stylish and cosy cafe with live sound, Russian-European food, coffee and theme parties.

Shokoladnitsa at 69, Lenina st. and 44, Muravyov-Amursky st. 08:00-24:00. All-Russian brand cafes offering a variety of coffee and chocolate drinks.

Cafe Coffee is one more network to relax in town. Addresses: 43, Karl Marx st. and 64, Komsomolskaya st.

Sense Café, 22a Postysheva St, +7 4212 452 010. Cafe which serves a descent coffee, and also works if you want a bite, all while you browse their free wifi. Sometimes there is live music to accompany your drink.

Rock-bar 'Garage', 15 Volochayevskata St. M Th Su 12:00-2:00, F Sa 12:00-.... Stylish and cosy cafe with live sound, Russian-European food, coffee and theme parties.

Eternal, 62B Karl Marx st (City's Second Pond, +7 45-09-14. M-Th 12:00-24:00, F Sa 12:00-02:00, Su 12:00-24:00. Surrounded by water of the Pond, this is a glass-and-steel construction of two-floors with a dance-floor and a bar. Entrance fee: VIP , FC . Soft zones: . DJ service. Menu on average.

Hospital, 3B Muravyov-Amurskiy St, +7 4212 448 427. Hottest club around, but getting in will usually prove tricky if you are not a "member", though it is doable — especially if you are an English speaking Westerner.

Nebo Nightclub, 46 Turgenev St, 5th floor, +7 4212 613 959. Neba was a popular and spacious up-scale 3 floor club, with a large dance floor on the ground level. Authorities shut it down along with hundreds of other clubs following a deadly nightclub fire elsewhere in Russia. Owners are reopening as Nebo and seem to be back in business.

Plastilin, 96A Karl Marx st, +7 45-43-30. Small hall but wonderful atmosphere.

Pleasure, 28 Leningradskaya St, +7 47-77-77. F Sa 23:00-06:00. Two-floor spacious club with three bars, VIP, and proposed terrace on the roof.

Pool Bar, 2A Lenina St, +7 4212 227 523. 13:00-03:00. The most popular bar in the city and the oldest one. Popular with foreigners and not crazily expensive. Pint of Heineken . As you might have guessed from the name, it has pool tables.

Velicano, 67A Zaparina St, +7 4212 326 390. Th & Su 21:00-03:00, F Sa 21:00-06:00. It's a bit Russian, but nice nonetheless. Two dance floors and competent bartenders. Cover charge.

Khabarovsk has the traditional set of Russian mobile operators:

GSM 900/1800:

• Beeline, +7 4212 64-90-64.
• Megafon.
• MTS. CDMA:
• Skylink, Dzerzhiskogo, 4 (Near Amur hotel., +7 4212 74-44-44. The all-Russian CDMA operator, having less subscribers, than GSM operators, but popular for faster and cheaper mobile Internet service. 4G (LTE):
• Megafon, +7 800 333 0500. new standart of mobile internet.

Check roaming prices before using non-Russian sim-card, especially those for mobile Internet. Some standards of mobile connection are not supported in Russia, e.g. those for Japan and United States.

Staying in Russia for a week or more, it's definitely worth to buy a local sim-card, but be aware, that a passport is needed for that. The easiest way refill a local mobile account is to use an ATM for that. Most ATMs have bilingual interfaces, allowing numerous kinds of payments, including those for mobile services by local operators. Another ways include terminals spread all over town - like Qiwi or mobile shops.

Beeline, +7 4212 64-90-64.

Megafon.

MTS.

Skylink, Dzerzhiskogo, 4 (Near Amur hotel., +7 4212 74-44-44. The all-Russian CDMA operator, having less subscribers, than GSM operators, but popular for faster and cheaper mobile Internet service.

Megafon, +7 800 333 0500. new standart of mobile internet.

• Game studio, 19 Gaidara St, +7 91-02-01.
• Lexx, 43 Karl Marx St, +7 30-87-18.
• Port, 7 Moskovskaya st, +7 41-18-18.
• ZenaClub, 37 Gogol st, +73-43-10. 24hr access.
• Adrenaline, 80 Serysheva St, +75-35-83. 09:00-24:00. /hour.
• Kolizei, 49 Karl Marx St, +7 21-12-87.
• Planeta.RU, 52 Pushkin st (Lenin square, +7 42-06-33.
• Redcom, 74 Karl Marx St (Near 'NK City' supermarket, +7 32-46-73. 09:00-21:00.
• Cinema 'Druzhba'. Free wi-fi in a lounge cafe

Game studio, 19 Gaidara St, +7 91-02-01.

Lexx, 43 Karl Marx St, +7 30-87-18.

Port, 7 Moskovskaya st, +7 41-18-18.

ZenaClub, 37 Gogol st, +73-43-10. 24hr access.

Adrenaline, 80 Serysheva St, +75-35-83. 09:00-24:00. /hour.

Kolizei, 49 Karl Marx St, +7 21-12-87.

Planeta.RU, 52 Pushkin st (Lenin square, +7 42-06-33.

Redcom, 74 Karl Marx St (Near 'NK City' supermarket, +7 32-46-73. 09:00-21:00.

Cinema 'Druzhba'. Free wi-fi in a lounge cafe

The General post office at 28 Muravyov-Amurskiy St. If you plan on calling anyone, Khabarovsk is UTC +10 (or 7 hours ahead of Moscow).

The post-office at the railway station is located on 13 Leningradsky per. about 200 m from the station building.

• China China, Lenin Stadium, southern entrance, +7 4212 328-390.
• Japan Japan, 46 Turgenev St, +7 4212 413-044.

China China, Lenin Stadium, southern entrance, +7 4212 328-390.

Japan Japan, 46 Turgenev St, +7 4212 413-044.

• Dalgeo Tours, 78 Turgenev St, +74212 318830. 09:00-17:00. One of the best organized travel agencies in the Russian far east, has English, Chinese and Japanese speaking staff available. Can assist with train tickets, ferry bookings for, and organizing Visas. Also hosts a range of local tours like the one to the ancient drawings of Sikachi-Alyan.
• Travel agency 'New millenium', office #106a, 22, Tolstogo st, +7 4212 21-14-54. Year-round tours to Khekhtsyrsky Nature reserve. Time travel: 5 hours.
• Ocean-Tour, +7 4212 41-15-47. Organized two-day tours to the healing center of wild animals in the taiga forest.

Dalgeo Tours, 78 Turgenev St, +74212 318830. 09:00-17:00. One of the best organized travel agencies in the Russian far east, has English, Chinese and Japanese speaking staff available. Can assist with train tickets, ferry bookings for, and organizing Visas. Also hosts a range of local tours like the one to the ancient drawings of Sikachi-Alyan.

Travel agency 'New millenium', office #106a, 22, Tolstogo st, +7 4212 21-14-54. Year-round tours to Khekhtsyrsky Nature reserve. Time travel: 5 hours.

Ocean-Tour, +7 4212 41-15-47. Organized two-day tours to the healing center of wild animals in the taiga forest.

• Bolshekhekhtsirsky Nature Reserve — the closest reserve of endemic plants and animals.
• Bogorodskoye (Богородское) — the district centre of Ul'chi rayon, should be reachable within one day on the Meteor boat. However, be prepared that getting back is harder than getting there. Whereas you can easily book your ticket downstream in Khabarovsk, return tickets are available only on the vessel itself, they are sold on a first come - first serve basis. Bogorodskoye is starting to develop eco tourism. To get to the surrounding villages, you need to hire a boat, as many of them are accessible only through waterways. Please be respectful to the indigenous peoples, which have gone through a long history of marginalisation and oppression and many of whom still live in deep poverty nowadays. If you want to know more about indigenous cultures, you can also try to contact the Association of indigenous small peoples of Khabarovsk Kray, which has its office in the city of Khabarovsk, please look here for their current contact (search for "Хабаровск").
• Sikachi-Alyan (Сикачи-Алян) — a national village inhabited by indigenous Nanai people, located some 70 km upstream on the Amur river. Close to the village you can find old petroglyphs, carved into stones on the banks of Amur, dating back some 20,000 years. If you don't find them, you might ask in the village for advise. Everyone should know them. Sikachi-Alyan also has a little museum, where you can learn much about indigenous culture, including shamanism, history and of course about the petroglyphs. However, you should probably know Russian or have an interpreter.
• Center for rehabilitation of wild animals Utyos (Центр реабилитации диких животных Утёс) — in a couple of hours' distance from the city there is a place in taiga near a tiny village where people take care of wild animals who got in trouble. The tigers, Himalayan bears either found injured or starving as orphans are finally put in the Center and walking free in the area of several hectares in Sikhote-Alin natural memorial.
• Sakhalin (Сахалин) — Khabarovsk is an important transfer point between the Trans-Siberian Railway and the railway line to Vanino, where ferries shuttles passengers across the Tartar strait to the fascinating Sakhalin island. From there you can continue your journey onwards to Japan with a weekly ferry in summer.

Bogorodskoye (Богородское) — the district centre of Ul'chi rayon, should be reachable within one day on the Meteor boat. However, be prepared that getting back is harder than getting there. Whereas you can easily book your ticket downstream in Khabarovsk, return tickets are available only on the vessel itself, they are sold on a first come - first serve basis. Bogorodskoye is starting to develop eco tourism. To get to the surrounding villages, you need to hire a boat, as many of them are accessible only through waterways. Please be respectful to the indigenous peoples, which have gone through a long history of marginalisation and oppression and many of whom still live in deep poverty nowadays. If you want to know more about indigenous cultures, you can also try to contact the Association of indigenous small peoples of Khabarovsk Kray, which has its office in the city of Khabarovsk, please look here for their current contact (search for "Хабаровск").

[[Sikachi-Alyan]] (Сикачи-Алян) — a national village inhabited by indigenous Nanai people, located some 70 km upstream on the Amur river. Close to the village you can find old petroglyphs, carved into stones on the banks of Amur, dating back some 20,000 years. If you don't find them, you might ask in the village for advise. Everyone should know them. Sikachi-Alyan also has a little museum, where you can learn much about indigenous culture, including shamanism, history and of course about the petroglyphs. However, you should probably know Russian or have an interpreter.

Center for rehabilitation of wild animals Utyos (Центр реабилитации диких животных Утёс) — in a couple of hours' distance from the city there is a place in taiga near a tiny village where people take care of wild animals who got in trouble. The tigers, Himalayan bears either found injured or starving as orphans are finally put in the Center and walking free in the area of several hectares in Sikhote-Alin natural memorial.

Sakhalin (Сахалин) — Khabarovsk is an important transfer point between the [[Trans-Siberian Railway]] and the railway line to [[Vanino]], where ferries shuttles passengers across the Tartar strait to the fascinating [[Sakhalin]] island. From there you can continue your journey onwards to [[Japan]] with a [[Russia to Japan via Sakhalin|weekly ferry]] in summer.