Kitakyushu

Kitakyūshū (北九州, ) is a large city in Fukuoka prefecture on the island of Kyushu, Japan. Together with Shimonoseki it is part of the Kanmon Straits area. In terms of area it is the largest city in Kyushu, though Fukuoka has the bigger population. The population of Kitakyushu is about one million (or 1.3 million including Shimonoseki). Kitakyushu was created in 1963 from the five smaller cities of Kokura (小倉), Moji (門司), Tobata (戸畑), Wakamatsu (若松) and Yahata (八幡), and it retains this sense of being a country area with much diversity and beautiful nature, despite its reputation as a steel town.

• Moji is the city's most touristic ward due to its charming historical center, containing several buildings from end of 19th-early 20th centuries. Offers also great views of the imponent Kanmonkyo Bridge leading to Shimonoseki
• Kokura is Kitakyushu's main transport, shopping and nightlife hub, also containing a nice riverside area where the Kokura castle is located
• Tobata is a more suburban and industrial area, hosting cheap, good-quality restaurants and the most important cultural event of the city, the Tobata Gion Yamagasa festival
• Yahata contains a former industrial wasteland which has been completely redeveloped, now containing excellent museums.
• Wakamatsu, in an island linked to the continent by the "unnecessarily huge" Wakato bridge, is popular among locals for its pleasant green areas and beaches

Moji is the city's most touristic ward due to its charming historical center, containing several buildings from end of 19th-early 20th centuries. Offers also great views of the imponent Kanmonkyo Bridge leading to [[Shimonoseki]]

Kokura is Kitakyushu's main transport, shopping and nightlife hub, also containing a nice riverside area where the Kokura castle is located

Tobata is a more suburban and industrial area, hosting cheap, good-quality restaurants and the most important cultural event of the city, the Tobata Gion Yamagasa festival

Yahata contains a former industrial wasteland which has been completely redeveloped, now containing excellent museums.

Wakamatsu, in an island linked to the continent by the "unnecessarily huge" Wakato bridge, is popular among locals for its pleasant green areas and beaches

Kokura, the heart of Kitakyushu, is an ancient feudal castle town guarding the Straits of Shimonoseki. Kokura was supposed to be the target of the second nuclear bomb in World War II. However, it was cloudy on the day of the attack and the plane diverted to Nagasaki instead.

The modern city of Kitakyushu dates back only to 1963, when the cities of Moji, Kokura, Tobata, Yahata and Wakamatsu were merged by administrative fiat.

The city has the reputation of being just an industrial area, but this is only true of part of the coastline. The city covers a very large area (much larger than Fukuoka, 486 km² as compared with 340), and there are many pleasant spots for sightseeing and recreation.

• Kokura Castle. Built by Hosokawa Tadaoki in 1602, it was the property of the Ogasawara clan which came from Harima (near Himeji) from 1632 to 1860. The castle was burnt down in 1865 in the war between the Kokura and Choshu clans. The keep was reconstructed in 1959, and the castle was fully restored in 1990. The Matsumoto Seicho museum and castle garden were opened in 1998. The keep contains a modern folkloric museum. Inside the castle you can see a video show about what Kokura was like during the Edo period, a display of Kokura Castle and its surroundings during the Edo period which is made of many lifelike tiny paper dolls, and you can also ride inside a palanquin like the castle lord would have when traveling. The box rocks back and forth to recreate the motion. It's amusing and free, so enjoy being the daimyo for a minute. You can also see two beautiful paintings of tigers with gold leaf on display. On one floor inside the castle there is a friendly older gentleman who is there to greet tourists. He makes scale models of Japan's castles out of toothpicks and his models are on display. If you can speak a little Japanese he is really kind and interesting to talk to. There is a gift shop and telescopes at the top floor (no ATM, bring your cash!) where you can buy souvenirs of the paintings inside the castle. There is a wheelchair lift sort of device. See also Japanese castles. Keep ¥350, Japanese garden ¥300, Matsumoto Seicho museum ¥400, all three ¥700.
• Mori Ogai house in Kokura. Literary giant Ogai wrote his Kokura Nikki (Kokura Diary) here. Ogai was based at the castle at the turn of the 19th-20th century when it was a military base. He was born in Tsuwano in Shimane prefecture.
• Hiraodai (平尾台). A rare karst plateau in Kokura Minami ward, 30-40 minutes by car from Kokura station. The grassy mountains are covered with large gray round rocks which the locals will tell you look like sheep grazing. Great for walks, hiking and camping. Caves can also be visited and the Shonyudo cave is not to be missed - wade through ice cold water in midsummer. There is no direct public transportation to Hiraodai, but a reasonably priced taxi service is available. The taxi leaves from the Nakatani Nishitetsu bus terminal (中谷車庫) and stops five minutes later at the JR Ishiharamachi Station (石原町駅) on the Hita-Hikosan Line (日田彦山線). It leaves the bus terminal twice a day M-F (09:40 and 16:05) and four times a day on Sa Su and holidays (09:40, 10:45, 13:40, 14:50). For more information about the taxi, call Hiraodai Kankou taxi at 451-0201, or ask at Kokura station information desk on the third floor.
• Sugao no taki waterfall in Kokura Minami ward - cool and popular with Japanese residents in the summer. Watch out for baby wild boars (uribo) which have been known to nibble at feet in search of food (from personal experience). You can rent bicycles from Dobaru cycling terminal and cycle around the whole area for a few hundred yen. Buses run to here from Kokura Station.

Kokura Castle. Built by Hosokawa Tadaoki in 1602, it was the property of the Ogasawara clan which came from Harima (near [[Himeji]]) from 1632 to 1860. The castle was burnt down in 1865 in the war between the Kokura and Choshu clans. The keep was reconstructed in 1959, and the castle was fully restored in 1990. The Matsumoto Seicho museum and castle garden were opened in 1998. The keep contains a modern folkloric museum. Inside the castle you can see a video show about what Kokura was like during the Edo period, a display of Kokura Castle and its surroundings during the Edo period which is made of many lifelike tiny paper dolls, and you can also ride inside a palanquin like the castle lord would have when traveling. The box rocks back and forth to recreate the motion. It's amusing and free, so enjoy being the daimyo for a minute. You can also see two beautiful paintings of tigers with gold leaf on display. On one floor inside the castle there is a friendly older gentleman who is there to greet tourists. He makes scale models of Japan's castles out of toothpicks and his models are on display. If you can speak a little Japanese he is really kind and interesting to talk to. There is a gift shop and telescopes at the top floor (no ATM, bring your cash!) where you can buy souvenirs of the paintings inside the castle. There is a wheelchair lift sort of device. See also [[Japanese castles]]. Keep ¥350, Japanese garden ¥300, Matsumoto Seicho museum ¥400, all three ¥700.

Mori Ogai house in Kokura. Literary giant Ogai wrote his Kokura Nikki (Kokura Diary) here. Ogai was based at the castle at the turn of the 19th-20th century when it was a military base. He was born in [[Tsuwano]] in [[Shimane prefecture]].

Hiraodai (平尾台). A rare karst plateau in Kokura Minami ward, 30-40 minutes by car from Kokura station. The grassy mountains are covered with large gray round rocks which the locals will tell you look like sheep grazing. Great for walks, hiking and camping. Caves can also be visited and the Shonyudo cave is not to be missed - wade through ice cold water in midsummer. There is no direct public transportation to Hiraodai, but a reasonably priced taxi service is available. The taxi leaves from the Nakatani Nishitetsu bus terminal (中谷車庫) and stops five minutes later at the JR Ishiharamachi Station (石原町駅) on the Hita-Hikosan Line (日田彦山線). It leaves the bus terminal twice a day M-F (09:40 and 16:05) and four times a day on Sa Su and holidays (09:40, 10:45, 13:40, 14:50). For more information about the taxi, call Hiraodai Kankou taxi at 451-0201, or ask at Kokura station information desk on the third floor.

Sugao no taki waterfall in Kokura Minami ward - cool and popular with Japanese residents in the summer. Watch out for baby wild boars (uribo) which have been known to nibble at feet in search of food (from personal experience). You can rent bicycles from Dobaru cycling terminal and cycle around the whole area for a few hundred yen. Buses run to here from Kokura Station.

• Moji-ko Retro, a few minutes walk from Moji-ko station, is also attractive, and aimed specifically at the tourist trade. You can hire a rickshaw, visit the old buildings (including the room where Albert Einstein stayed the night at the Mitsui Club in 1922) and shop for souvenirs. Also be sure to go up the Moji Port Retro Observation Deck - there is a great 180-degree view from the 31st floor on fine days. Moji-ko is linked by a small and rapid ferry with Shimonoseki on the other side of the Kanmon straits. There is also an underground walk-way through the Kanmon Strait that connects Kyushu to the main island of Honshu. Moji-ko is famous for its Yakicurry, rice topped with Japanese curry, covered in cheese with an egg thrown in, and then baked. There are several restaurants in the area that serve variations of this specialty. The shabu shabu restaurant in Moji-ko station is also well worth a visit. Moji supposedly was a place where bananas were shipped to once and you can now buy banana soft-serve ice cream and other banana treats at touristy places there. For those with a little extra cash and an adventurous appetite, it is also famous for its Fugu(blowfish).

Moji-ko Retro, a few minutes walk from Moji-ko station, is also attractive, and aimed specifically at the tourist trade. You can hire a rickshaw, visit the old buildings (including the room where Albert Einstein stayed the night at the Mitsui Club in 1922) and shop for souvenirs. Also be sure to go up the Moji Port Retro Observation Deck - there is a great 180-degree view from the 31st floor on fine days. Moji-ko is linked by a small and rapid ferry with [[Shimonoseki]] on the other side of the Kanmon straits. There is also an underground walk-way through the Kanmon Strait that connects Kyushu to the main island of Honshu. Moji-ko is famous for its Yakicurry, rice topped with Japanese curry, covered in cheese with an egg thrown in, and then baked. There are several restaurants in the area that serve variations of this specialty. The shabu shabu restaurant in Moji-ko station is also well worth a visit. Moji supposedly was a place where bananas were shipped to once and you can now buy banana soft-serve ice cream and other banana treats at touristy places there. For those with a little extra cash and an adventurous appetite, it is also famous for its Fugu(blowfish).

• Iwaya beach in Wakamatsu ward. You can catch the Kitakyushu City bus No. 41 from JR Kokura and Orio Stations. Get off at the last stop, Iwaya. Direct buses from Kokura station leave at 12:09 on weekdays and 10:16 on weekends and holidays. ¥440. Beware jellyfish after mid-August!

Iwaya beach in Wakamatsu ward. You can catch the Kitakyushu City bus No. 41 from JR Kokura and Orio Stations. Get off at the last stop, Iwaya. Direct buses from Kokura station leave at 12:09 on weekdays and 10:16 on weekends and holidays. ¥440. Beware jellyfish after mid-August!

• Kawachi reservoir in Yahata Higashi ward has an onsen (hot spring) with a rotenburo (outdoor bath). Courtesy bus from Yahata station. You can walk round the reservoir in about an hour, or rent a bicycle.
• Mount Sarakura, accessible by Hobashira cable car, provides superb views of the city, especially at night.

Kawachi reservoir in Yahata Higashi ward has an onsen (hot spring) with a rotenburo (outdoor bath). Courtesy bus from Yahata station. You can walk round the reservoir in about an hour, or rent a bicycle.

Mount Sarakura, accessible by Hobashira cable car, provides superb views of the city, especially at night.

• Kitakyushu City Art Museum.
  • Kitakyushu City Art Museum, Riverwalk annex.

• Zenrin Map Museum. M-F 10:00-17:00, closed at weekends and on national holidays. The Zenrin company, whose head office is in the black segment of the Riverwalk complex, is a major local employer which pioneered mapping software in Japan. This location has been chosen because a famous Edo period mapmaker, Ino Tadataka, started making his map of Kyushu here. The views of the city and Kanmon straits from the museum on a fine day are excellent. entry ¥100.
• Museum of Natural & Human History. Near Space World train station.
• Environment Museum.
• Kaikyo Dramaship. Has a museum and a light show about the history of the Kanmon straits, good nautical souvenirs and regular live music events.
• Railway Museum.
• Idemitsu Museum of Art.
• Centre for Contemporary Art Kitakyushu, 2-6-1 3F Ogura Yahata-Higashi-ku (in Yahatahigashi-ku. The CCA has an annual international artist residency program, studios and an interesting contemporary art gallery.

Kitakyushu City Art Museum.

• Kitakyushu City Art Museum, Riverwalk annex.

Kitakyushu City Art Museum.

• Kitakyushu City Art Museum, Riverwalk annex.

Zenrin Map Museum. M-F 10:00-17:00, closed at weekends and on national holidays. The Zenrin company, whose head office is in the black segment of the Riverwalk complex, is a major local employer which pioneered mapping software in Japan. This location has been chosen because a famous Edo period mapmaker, Ino Tadataka, started making his map of Kyushu here. The views of the city and Kanmon straits from the museum on a fine day are excellent. entry ¥100.

Museum of Natural & Human History. Near Space World train station.

Environment Museum.

Kaikyo Dramaship. Has a museum and a light show about the history of the Kanmon straits, good nautical souvenirs and regular live music events.

Railway Museum.

Idemitsu Museum of Art.

Centre for Contemporary Art Kitakyushu, 2-6-1 3F Ogura Yahata-Higashi-ku (in Yahatahigashi-ku. The CCA has an annual international artist residency program, studios and an interesting contemporary art gallery.

• Visit the Blast furnace near Space World train station. Japan's steel industry began here in 1901 and the original furnace is preserved as steelmaking was so important to Japan and the development of Kitakyushu in the 20th century. Also nearby are the city's natural history museum and environment museum.

• Cruise the Dokaiwan sea inlet between Tobata and Wakamatsu wards at night. Advanced bookings required, 19:00-21:00, Fridays in August, leaving from Tobata ferry stage, about seven minutes walk from Tobata station. Four trips only each year. ¥3,000 per person. Includes visit to former Furukawa Kogyo building in Wakamatsu where we were treated to live Hawaiian music and beer. Overall a good evening. The boats used for the cruise are the ferry boats which ply between Tobata and Wakamatsu, Japan's shortest and cheapest ferry (3 minutes, ¥50 per person, ¥50 per bicycle).
• Walk to Honshu! Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel starts in Moji-ko, near Mekari Park. The tunnel runs underwater between the islands of Kyushu and Honshu. After about ten minutes' walk you have emerged in Shimonoseki in Honshu, where you can ride a cable car up Hinoyama and enjoy a nice view of the Kanmon straits and Kitakyushu. Best on a clear day!
• ChaCha Town is a shopping and amusement center with a movie theater, game center, food court, clothing stores, a grocery store, and a very big ¥100 shop. Popular with families and younger teens. On weekends there are concerts and other attractions in the amphitheater- usually a kids' dance group, a magician, or a local musician. The shopping center's token large red ferris wheel isn't the biggest, but it's kind of a fun way to see the city at night. Take the ¥100 bus marked "Sunatsu/Chacha Town" from the bus platform underneath Kokura Station.
• Aru Aru City. Easily reached from Kokura station, Aru Aru City is Kitakyushu's center of otaku culture, hosting frequent events per year, several stories of anime-, manga-, and game-themed shops, game arcades, a manga kissa, and the Kitakyushu Manga Museum. While obviously not as huge as Tokyo's Akihabara or Osaka's Den Den Town, it is far more specialised than those two and has the obvious convenience of having all shops under the same roof.

Watch one of the summer festivals held in July:

• Kokura Gion. Third weekend in July
• Tobata Gion. Designated an important intangible cultural asset of Japan and dates back to 1802. It involves the carrying of large floats called Yamagasa by about 100 men who shout "Yoitosa" to keep in time. Fourth weekend in July.
• Kurosaki Gion. July 20-23
• Wakamatsu Summer Festival. in July
• Wasshoi Hyakuman Summer Festival. Early August. Many dance groups. Ends with a parade and firework display.

Kokura Gion. Third weekend in July

Tobata Gion. Designated an important intangible cultural asset of Japan and dates back to 1802. It involves the carrying of large floats called Yamagasa by about 100 men who shout "Yoitosa" to keep in time. Fourth weekend in July.

Kurosaki Gion. July 20-23

Wakamatsu Summer Festival. in July

Wasshoi Hyakuman Summer Festival. Early August. Many dance groups. Ends with a parade and firework display.

Summer firework displays (hanabi taikai) are also held in various places in and around Kitakyushu in July and August. Usually at least 3,000 fireworks are let off.

The biggest one with no less than 13,000 fireworks (!) is the Kanmon Straits display between Kitakyushu and Shimonoseki (mid-August 13). Be prepared for big crowds, especially on the trains to and from Kokura to Moji-ko.

One of the best and most popular places for hanami is around Kokura castle, but there are many others.

Visit the Blast furnace near Space World train station. Japan's steel industry began here in 1901 and the original furnace is preserved as steelmaking was so important to Japan and the development of Kitakyushu in the 20th century. Also nearby are the city's natural history museum and environment museum.

Cruise the Dokaiwan sea inlet between Tobata and Wakamatsu wards at night. Advanced bookings required, 19:00-21:00, Fridays in August, leaving from Tobata ferry stage, about seven minutes walk from Tobata station. Four trips only each year. ¥3,000 per person. Includes visit to former Furukawa Kogyo building in Wakamatsu where we were treated to live Hawaiian music and beer. Overall a good evening. The boats used for the cruise are the ferry boats which ply between Tobata and Wakamatsu, Japan's shortest and cheapest ferry (3 minutes, ¥50 per person, ¥50 per bicycle).

Walk to Honshu! Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel starts in Moji-ko, near Mekari Park. The tunnel runs underwater between the islands of Kyushu and Honshu. After about ten minutes' walk you have emerged in Shimonoseki in Honshu, where you can ride a cable car up Hinoyama and enjoy a nice view of the Kanmon straits and Kitakyushu. Best on a clear day!

ChaCha Town is a shopping and amusement center with a movie theater, game center, food court, clothing stores, a grocery store, and a very big ¥100 shop. Popular with families and younger teens. On weekends there are concerts and other attractions in the amphitheater- usually a kids' dance group, a magician, or a local musician. The shopping center's token large red ferris wheel isn't the biggest, but it's kind of a fun way to see the city at night. Take the ¥100 bus marked "Sunatsu/Chacha Town" from the bus platform underneath Kokura Station.

Aru Aru City. Easily reached from Kokura station, Aru Aru City is Kitakyushu's center of otaku culture, hosting frequent events per year, several stories of anime-, manga-, and game-themed shops, game arcades, a manga kissa, and the Kitakyushu Manga Museum. While obviously not as huge as [[Tokyo]]'s Akihabara or [[Osaka]]'s Den Den Town, it is far more specialised than those two and has the obvious convenience of having all shops under the same roof.

• Explore the spacious and ultra-modern Riverwalk shopping complex by the Murasaki river and near the castle
• Visit the department stores: Colet, Izutsuya
• Stroll through Uomachi shopping area.
• The tiny traditional open-air Tanga market has fresh fish, fruit and vegetables in abundance. It is the oldest shopping arcade in Japan.
• Aru Aru City. Aru Aru City is certainly the place for buying manga, anime, games and all related trinkets (posters, cards, action figures, etc.). Highly remarkable is the shop selling a large variety of old second hand videogames - if you still have a working Famicom, there will surely be something for you there.

Explore the spacious and ultra-modern Riverwalk shopping complex by the Murasaki river and near the castle

Visit the department stores: Colet, Izutsuya

Stroll through Uomachi shopping area.

The tiny traditional open-air Tanga market has fresh fish, fruit and vegetables in abundance. It is the oldest shopping arcade in Japan.

Aru Aru City. Aru Aru City is certainly the place for buying manga, anime, games and all related trinkets (posters, cards, action figures, etc.). Highly remarkable is the shop selling a large variety of old second hand videogames - if you still have a working Famicom, there will surely be something for you there.

• Rihga Royal Hotel has several high-priced restaurants.
• There are many restaurants to suit all budgets in the Uomachi area near Kokura station, and at the top of the Isetan and Izutsuya department stores. Also try the sixth floor of Amu Plaza building above Kokura station.
• There is a McDonald's and a Lotteria Burger near Kokura station for the starving and desperate.
• In the sixth floor of Amu Plaza building, there is a kaiten (revolving) sushi restaurant. The chefs will make sushi to request and oblige requests for substitutions or no wasabi. They also make some grilled/seared fish sushi -- delicious! They have a few vegetarian options like kappamaki and you can also get fresh fruit and fried chicken and other non-sushi dishes. Service can really vary from time to time though -- sometimes the waitresses are more helpful and sometimes they ignore you.
• For cheaper stuff or deli take-out, you can find lots of good things to eat in the basements of Isetan and Izutsuya.
• Towards the back of Kokura Station, across from the Shinkansen gate, there is a shopping area called Himawari Street. Downstairs in this area you will find another cluster of places to eat, including a sports yakitori bar, oden, okonomiyaki, yakisoba, Ringer Hut for fast food, and a 1950s-60s retro-styled area of tonkotsu ramen places.
• Popular foods in Kitakyushu include karashi mentaiko (辛子明太子, spicy pickled cod roe), tonkotsu ramen (the stinkier the better, apparently), and yaki-udon (just like yakisoba but using udon noodles). Chanpon, yakiniku, and Korean food such as bibimba also seem to be enjoying strong popularity.
• Hardtack has been sold since the 1920s in Yahata. Be careful not to break your teeth.
• Kokura is, quite literally, synonymous with a type of finely filtered red bean jam known as ogura-an (小倉餡) with an alternative reading of kokura-an, which makes its way into all sorts of Japanese pastries and desserts. But in fact ogura-an is from Ogurayama, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto, and ogura-an pan (red bean jam in bread rolls) was first made in Tokyo.

Hardtack has been sold since the 1920s in Yahata. Be careful not to break your teeth.

Kokura is, quite literally, synonymous with a type of finely filtered red bean jam known as ogura-an (小倉餡) with an alternative reading of kokura-an, which makes its way into all sorts of Japanese pastries and desserts. But in fact ogura-an is from Ogurayama, Sakyo-ku, [[Kyoto]], and ogura-an pan (red bean jam in bread rolls) was first made in [[Tokyo]].

• Xelha is a large bar near Kokura station. It is behind Isetan department store on the left side as you exit Kokura station. Food available. Open from 17:00 most days. Xelha has a soccer team and a big screen for viewing sports. Address: Kyo-machi 3-6-23, Yoshin Bldg, 1F. Tel 093-551-8683.
• Booties Irish pub, Japanese-run, Guinness and pub food available. Smaller than Xelha. Opposite Izutsuya department store. Open from 17:00 most days. Big screen for viewing sports.
• Round 5, +81 93-511-1002. A very small bar in Konya-machi, Kokuta run by a friendly long-term American resident named Bob. ¥100 karaoke. Open from about 20:00.
• There are three Starbucks in Kokura, one in Riverwalk, one near Kokura station and one inside the SunLive City shopping mall.
• Don Gaba ChoRestaurant and night bar on Furusemba-machi. Great atmosphere and always a laugh. Scintillating conversation and sophisticated pursuits guaranteed.

Xelha is a large bar near Kokura station. It is behind Isetan department store on the left side as you exit Kokura station. Food available. Open from 17:00 most days. Xelha has a soccer team and a big screen for viewing sports. Address: Kyo-machi 3-6-23, Yoshin Bldg, 1F. Tel 093-551-8683.

Booties Irish pub, Japanese-run, Guinness and pub food available. Smaller than Xelha. Opposite Izutsuya department store. Open from 17:00 most days. Big screen for viewing sports.

Round 5, +81 93-511-1002. A very small bar in Konya-machi, Kokuta run by a friendly long-term American resident named Bob. ¥100 karaoke. Open from about 20:00.

There are three Starbucks in Kokura, one in Riverwalk, one near Kokura station and one inside the SunLive City shopping mall.

Don Gaba ChoRestaurant and night bar on Furusemba-machi. Great atmosphere and always a laugh. Scintillating conversation and sophisticated pursuits guaranteed.

• Shimonoseki on Honshu is a short train ride from Kokura. Additionally, StarFlyer has a promotion where, if arriving from or going to Tokyo on any of their flights, they will offer taxi service between Kitakyushu Airport and Shimonoseki for only ¥1000.
• Hakata station in Fukuoka is twenty minutes by Shinkansen from Kokura, or about one hour by express.