Ko Chang

Thailand

Ko Chang (เกาะช้าง) is an island in Trat Province, Eastern Thailand.

White Sand Beach on Ko Chang

Ko Chang is Thailand's third largest island after Phuket and Samui, and the biggest in eastern Thailand. With about 5,000 permanent residents the island is not heavily populated, but tourism (and development) has increased dramatically over the past few years.

The island is approximately 30 km long by 14 km, wide, 213 km2. It is part of Mu Ko Chang National Park, which covers an area of 650 km2, of which 70 percent is offshore.

It is a mountainous island, with Khao Salak Phet being the highest peak at 744 metres. The island is known for several waterfalls, coral reefs, and rain forests.

Ko Chang is one of Thailand's most beautiful islands with long white sandy beaches, most half-deserted. The island is also home to a wide range of wildlife, including a good selection of birds, snakes, deer, and a number of non-native elephants. The island and its vicinity are great places for snorkelling, diving, and jungle hiking. The "discovery" of the island as a tourist destination since 2000 has brought on development, and while it is still far quieter than places like Phuket or Ko Samui, it's probably better to go now than later. Regarding services and activities specifically aimed at tourists prices have reached such a level that the islanders are pricing themselves out of the market when compared to the other islands.

Prior to World War II, Ko Chang was little known by anyone. During this period, the few families there made a living growing coconuts and fruit on the mainland. In January 1941, during the Japanese occupation, the Thai Navy fought the French in a battle in the waters to the southeast of Ko Chang.

Nothing else happened to Ko Chang until the first backpacker foreigners started arriving on the back of local fishing boats in the mid-1970s. In 1982, Ko Chang along with surrounding area became part of the protected Mu Ko Chang National Marine Park. Only very recently, in less than ten years, Ko Chang has turned itself into a major tourist destination, both for foreigners and local Thais.

This sudden tourism boom however, has been fraught with controversy concerning land encroachment. The government is trying to transform it from a backpackers' paradise to a high-end destination. Construction is happening everywhere, with basic huts torn down to make way for fancy resorts.

Ko Chang is the largest island in the Ko Chang Archipelago. The name means 'Elephant Island', named for the elephant shape of its headland, although elephants are not indigenous to the island.

Ko Chang has an area of approximately 429 square kilometres. The topography contains high mountains and complex stone cliffs. The highest peak is Khao Salak Phet which is 744 m high, rich in fertile evergreen forest which is the main water source. There are many waterfalls, beaches and splendid reefs in the west of the island.

Most accommodation is on the west side of the island, where the sandy beaches are. On the east side there are no sandy beaches and it is far less touristy. There are some nice waterfalls though.

Seventy percent of the island is rain forest, steep hills, cliffs, waterfalls, and wildlife, fine beaches, coral reefs and an abundance of marine life. The island also has tall mountains and rock cliffs.

Ko Chang has the same seasons as Bangkok. The best season to go is the (comparatively) cool season between Nov-Feb. Mar-May are roasting hot and between Jun-Oct it rains, and a lot at that: 4,000 mm in an average year. Many guesthouses close during this season, so accommodation is limited. If you don't mind the rain, traveling during the rainy season can be enjoyable nevertheless, and prices for accommodation are low.

Elephant trekking, Ban Kwan

  • Ban Salak Phet village has a temple, Wat Salak Phet, built in the reign of King Rama V on his visit to the island. The original temple is now used as a museum commemorating the king's visits to the area. A new temple was completed nearby in 2014.
  • Bays include Ao Salak Phet, the largest on the island, and Ao Bai Lan (อ่าวใบลาน).
  • Mu Ko Chang National Park. National Marine Park including parts of Ko Chang and 46 other islands.
  • War Memorial Monument. A renovation is underway at the memorial site, with a huge building being constructed (Jan 2018).

Backpackers will opt to head a couple of kilometres south of Kai Bae Beach to Lonely Beach, which is known for cheap accommodation and almost nightly parties in high season. A quieter alternative is Klong Kloi Beach on the south coast of Ko Chang. This was deserted until 2006 but is now home to a community of beach bars, restaurants, and accommodation.

Kai Bae Beach.

Khlong Prao-Laem Chaiyachet Beach.

Lonely Beach.

White Sand Beach. By far the busiest as it is the first beach visitors reach when they arrive on the island.

The hilly nature of the island provides it with a number of popular waterfalls. Waterfalls on the east side of the island include Khlong Nonsi, Khlong Nueng, Khiri Phet which is about three kilometres from Salak Phet village, the five waterfalls of Khlong Koi near Bang Bao, and the Than Mayom waterfall near Than Mayom pier.

  • Khiri Petch. Medium sized waterfall.
  • Klong Nonsi. Waterfall on the east side of the island. Reachable by foot from the Klong Plu waterfall, 6 km.
  • Klong Nueng. Said to be the most breathtaking waterfall.
  • Klong Plu. The most popular waterfall, and the only one on the west side of the island.
  • Kongoi. Five waterfalls.
  • Thanmayom.

Khiri Petch. Medium sized waterfall.

Klong Nonsi. Waterfall on the east side of the island. Reachable by foot from the Klong Plu waterfall, 6 km.

Klong Nueng. Said to be the most breathtaking waterfall.

Klong Plu. The most popular waterfall, and the only one on the west side of the island.

Kongoi. Five waterfalls.

Thanmayom.

Mu Ko Chang National Park. National Marine Park including parts of Ko Chang and 46 other islands.

War Memorial Monument. A renovation is underway at the memorial site, with a huge building being constructed (Jan 2018).

Kayaking Ko Chang Elephants, Ban Kwan

  • Dive Adventure. Five star PADI IDC diving school offers scuba diving, PADI courses and snorkelling trips into Ko Chang National Marine Park.
  • Diving School Ko Chang. Go diving or learn to dive in the beautiful waters of Ko Chang.
  • Eco-Divers Koh Chang, +66 39 557296. 09:00-20:00. Snorkelling trips.
  • Tree Top Adventure Park, +66 84 3107600. Daily, 09:00-17:00. Rope and harness tree climbing. Fun activities and amazing views from the top of the trees. Half-day program, 950 baht.
  • Hike with a park ranger from the Than Mayom Waterfall to the Klong Plu Waterfall. The cross island trek takes 8–10 hours and costs 500 baht per person.
  • Trek in the jungle with Tan, +66 89 6452019, +66 89 8322531, who has been taking guided treks for over 10 years and speaks very good English.
  • Learn Thai cooking in one of the three Thai cooking schools around Klong Prao: Kati Culinary, Ko Chang Thai Cooking, Blue Lagoon.
  • Guided sea kayaking trips. KayakChang.com is run by a qualified British guide. They use imported sea kayaks and equipment. They offer single day expeditions off the west coast and multi-day expeditions in the southern islands.
  • Meet retired Ko Chang elephants at the north end of White Sand Beach.

Dive Adventure. Five star PADI IDC diving school offers scuba diving, PADI courses and snorkelling trips into Ko Chang National Marine Park.

Diving School Ko Chang. Go diving or learn to dive in the beautiful waters of Ko Chang.

Eco-Divers Koh Chang, +66 39 557296. 09:00-20:00. Snorkelling trips.

Tree Top Adventure Park, +66 84 3107600. Daily, 09:00-17:00. Rope and harness tree climbing. Fun activities and amazing views from the top of the trees. Half-day program, 950 baht.

Hike with a park ranger from the Than Mayom Waterfall to the Klong Plu Waterfall. The cross island trek takes 8–10 hours and costs 500 baht per person.

Trek in the jungle with Tan, +66 89 6452019, +66 89 8322531, who has been taking guided treks for over 10 years and speaks very good English.

Learn Thai cooking in one of the three Thai cooking schools around Klong Prao: Kati Culinary, Ko Chang Thai Cooking, Blue Lagoon.

Guided sea kayaking trips. KayakChang.com is run by a qualified British guide. They use imported sea kayaks and equipment. They offer single day expeditions off the west coast and multi-day expeditions in the southern islands.

  • Books Thailand, +66 81 9198219. Has a good selection of second-hand books in many languages.
  • Madoosika. Latest fashions. Chic, BOHO, gypsy, hippie, maxi dress, party and sun dresses.
  • Scuba Zone, 21/23 Moo 4 White Sand, +66 80 0974111. Extensive range of snorkelling and diving equipment focusing more on quality than price, but still cheaper than Western prices.

Books Thailand, +66 81 9198219. Has a good selection of second-hand books in many languages.

Madoosika. Latest fashions. Chic, BOHO, gypsy, hippie, maxi dress, party and sun dresses.

Scuba Zone, 21/23 Moo 4 White Sand, +66 80 0974111. Extensive range of snorkelling and diving equipment focusing more on quality than price, but still cheaper than Western prices.

Menus are similar to the rest of Thailand, but the high island prices are due not so much to higher transportation costs, but because of high demand. There are many restaurants on any given beach open both daytime and evening with a strong concentration of tourist venues on White Sand Beach.

The beaches of Ko Chang are all dotted with restaurants dishing up some delicious seafood as well as offering romantic evening views. Try Ko Chang's own wine which comes in a variety of fruity flavours including mangosteen and pineapple.

Sunsets can be watched in style from the terrace at the Top Resort on south White Sand Beach from the vantage of a cliff top. Bring an appetite and your camera, no reservations needed.

White Sand Beach

  • Apple, 7/4 Moo 4, +66 39 551228. Su-F 08:00-24:00; Sa 08:00-01:00. Probably the cheapest restaurant/bar along White Sand Beach. It has a good location in the middle of the beach. Don't expect anything special, just the usual Thai and Italian dishes common at tourist spots. Upstairs there is a small hut where you can chill out with a beer on pillows. Closing times are early, but if you order before closing time you can keep sitting there as long as you want. They also have 21 small wooden bungalows available for 800-4,000 baht/night.
  • Nong Bua Seafood, +66 39 551595. 07:00-22:00. If you pass by, you might wonder why this place is busy every night. A family-owned restaurant open for more than 30 years. Thai, Chinese, Western food, and especially fresh seafood.
  • Rock Sand Restaurant. 07:00-22:00. Thai and Western food. Speciality: Taste of Thailand and finger licking good.

Bang Bao

  • Ido Ido Restaurant and chill out bar. Homemade Thai and Western food. Breakfast.

Apple, 7/4 Moo 4, +66 39 551228. Su-F 08:00-24:00; Sa 08:00-01:00. Probably the cheapest restaurant/bar along White Sand Beach. It has a good location in the middle of the beach. Don't expect anything special, just the usual Thai and Italian dishes common at tourist spots. Upstairs there is a small hut where you can chill out with a beer on pillows. Closing times are early, but if you order before closing time you can keep sitting there as long as you want. They also have 21 small wooden bungalows available for 800-4,000 baht/night.

Nong Bua Seafood, +66 39 551595. 07:00-22:00. If you pass by, you might wonder why this place is busy every night. A family-owned restaurant open for more than 30 years. Thai, Chinese, Western food, and especially fresh seafood.

Rock Sand Restaurant. 07:00-22:00. Thai and Western food. Speciality: Taste of Thailand and finger licking good.

Ido Ido Restaurant and chill out bar. Homemade Thai and Western food. Breakfast.

The drink you have to try is Chang beer, even if its only for the name. If you have a busy schedule ahead of you, better stick to Tiger beer as it doesn't give as much of a headache (yet it is slightly more expensive). Each village offers something different, but taken as a whole, Ko Chang's nightlife is fairly mellow compared to other islands. There are some quiet beach bars dotted around White Sand Beach with amazing sunset views.

  • Jungle Queen Live Music Bar. The house band plays from around 20:00-24:00, and plays music from Rihanna to AC/DC. People come from all over the island for the live music hour, so be sure to stop by when they are on. They also have free pool, and the place doesn't close until 05:00, so it's a good place to take the party after the nightclub and the other bars start closing. Service is good, and the staff are friendly and efficient.

Lonely Beach's nightlife and bar scene is gaining a reputation among the backpacker community. It is the place to be for "full moon" imitations, bucket parties, and dance till you pass out disco bars. The rubbish left over from the parties are barely cleaned up, so the next day you can see exactly where the party took place from the main road. The party location generally rotates among several different bars depending on the day of the week, and is usually heavily advertised which bar is "the spot" for each night.

  • Cafe del Sunshine, +66 85 6773993. 07:00-24:00. Thai food and a great selection of Western brunch and lunch dishes. Set in a nicely designed and relaxing building. 50-100 baht.
  • Rock Sand Resort. Right by the sea with a terrace over the sea to sit and watch the Ko Chang sunsets. Special: Taste of Thailand. Just above and behind the restaurant Rock Sand has rooms for backpackers and flashpackers.
  • Siam Hut. Hosts a large dance party every Friday night in their large outdoor deck on the beach. Happy hour specials on Friday until 23:00

Jungle Queen Live Music Bar. The house band plays from around 20:00-24:00, and plays music from Rihanna to AC/DC. People come from all over the island for the live music hour, so be sure to stop by when they are on. They also have free pool, and the place doesn't close until 05:00, so it's a good place to take the party after the nightclub and the other bars start closing. Service is good, and the staff are friendly and efficient.

Cafe del Sunshine, +66 85 6773993. 07:00-24:00. Thai food and a great selection of Western brunch and lunch dishes. Set in a nicely designed and relaxing building. 50-100 baht.

Rock Sand Resort. Right by the sea with a terrace over the sea to sit and watch the Ko Chang sunsets. Special: Taste of Thailand. Just above and behind the restaurant Rock Sand has rooms for backpackers and flashpackers.

Siam Hut. Hosts a large dance party every Friday night in their large outdoor deck on the beach. Happy hour specials on Friday until 23:00

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