Ko Yao

Thailand

Ko Yao, with Phuket to the west and Krabi to the east

Ko Yao (เกาะยาว), sometimes written Koyao, is a group of islands between Phuket and Krabi. There are two main islands, Ko Yao Noi ("small long island") and Ko Yao Yai, ("big long island") with Noi being the more developed of the two.

Ko Yao Noi remains a beautiful island, where most people believe that the island should be preserved from human despoilation. It is often described as one of the last islands in the region to not be over-developed.

Ko Yao Yai is also a natural beauty, the less developed of the two islands. Ko Yao Yai is significantly larger than Ko Yao Noi.

Sea Gypsies (Moken people) inhabited the area before anybody else, except maybe other nomadic people like forest hunters and collectors (Sakai, Negritos). The 3,500 or so inhabitants of Ko Yao Noi are thought to be recent migrants from the Malay Peninsula (Satun, Trang).

The Mon population, linguistically and culturally belonging to the Khmer ethnolinguistic group, settled in peninsular Thailand ruling over maritime states like Ligor (Nakhon Si Thammarat). They melded with southern migrants from Malaysia and with northerners (Thai), over centuries of commercial exchange and political conflict. Most probably the Mon stock remains prevalent for most of the people living in southern Thailand today, including the people of Ko Yao.

Numerous cave paintings hidden in the many islands of the bay, extending from 2,000 years ago to last century, attest to the influence of distinct communities in the emergence of a mixed origin population, living now in the provinces of Phang Nga, Phuket, Krabi, and Satun.

The most recent migrations (17th-18th centuries) from Satun and Trang to Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Noi is corroborated by the particular dialect spoken on the island. It bears obvious Malaysian lexical traces, particularly regarding toponyms and vernacular names of the flora.

The main industries on the island are fishing and rubber plantations. A little rice farming and some fruit, palm, and coconut plantations are present. Boat building and farming techniques here have been passed from generation to generation and, while some of the youngsters leave Ko Yao to seek the bright lights of Phuket, most return to their tight-knit community.

Ko Yao Noi is mountainous in the centre and has beaches to either side. The east side has beaches suitable for swimming and snorkelling and the west is a picturesque blend of rice flats and mangrove trees. The island is a sanctuary for at least four species of hornbills, very commonly seen around.

The beaches on the east side are (from north to south): Hat Ao Loh Ha, Hat Sai Kaew, a nameless beach south of Hat Sae Kaew, Hat Tha Kao, Hat Klong Jaak and Hat Pasai. Hat Ao Loh Ha is occupied entirely by The Paradise Koh Yao Resort and not open to public. It can be reached by boat or over a about 10 km long rough jungle path. Hat Sae Kaew and the nameless beach just south of it are absolutely deserted and beautiful. They can be reached by a four km jungle path by foot or motorcycle (if you have proper driving skills), but not by car (at least in off-season the path is in dire condition). Hat Tha Kao, Hat Klong Jaak, and Hat Pasai are literally next to the main road and equipped with bungalows, bars, and shops.

  • DragonHeart, +66 87 6265366. Indonesian Pinisi sailing boat with day cruises to surrounding islands, includes a full Thai-style buffet meal prepared on-board, fresh fish and Thai curries, music, lots of pillows, plenty of breeze and friendly crew.
  • Ko Yao International Diving School. Diving at Lam Sai Village Hotel in Ban Laem Sai.
  • Koh Kayak Expeditions. This small operation is fun and friendly and they help you design your own adventure away from the crowds.

DragonHeart, +66 87 6265366. Indonesian Pinisi sailing boat with day cruises to surrounding islands, includes a full Thai-style buffet meal prepared on-board, fresh fish and Thai curries, music, lots of pillows, plenty of breeze and friendly crew.

Ko Yao International Diving School. Diving at Lam Sai Village Hotel in Ban Laem Sai.

Koh Kayak Expeditions. This small operation is fun and friendly and they help you design your own adventure away from the crowds.

  • Cha's Noodle Shop.
  • Coconut Island. Delicious seafood suited to budget travellers.
  • Good View Restaurant. Daily, 10:00-22:00. Really good seafood.
  • Je t'aime Restaurant, 21/1 Moo 1 (At the market just opposite the 7-Eleven, +66 76-597495. 09:00-22:00. French- and Danish-owned restaurant. At the centre of the island. Serves daily specialities, French and Thai dishes, fresh seafood, freshly made coffee, beer, wine and cocktails. Free Wi-Fi is available for guests.
  • La Luna, Ko Yao Noi (Between Baan Thakow and Pasai Beach, +66 87461612. Real Italian wood-fired pizza. Romano, the owner, serves other Italian dishes, homemade bread, fine wines and sweet desserts! An open and friendly atmosphere, good music and a great place to hang out.
  • Lam Sai Lobster Seafood, Ko Yao Noi (At the very southeast corner of the island, 500 m after the inactive Tha Laem Sai Pier.. High quality seafood restaurant with almost no meat dishes (tom yam gai and vegetarian dishes are available). Porch is built onto the sea. Dishes come in the different sizes and prices (e.g. tom yam gung for 180, 250 or 350 baht). A medium sized dish with rice is enough for even a hungry Westerner. 150-500 baht.
  • The Pyramid Bar & Restaurant. This bar and restaurant is a thatched roof-style bungalow overlooking the sea to Krabi. It is open all year. They have an extensive menu serving everything from Western breakfast, wraps, pasta, to the best burgers and pizza on the island. Everything is homemade: bread, burger buns, tortillas. They also have a very good dessert menu. They serve a variety of beer, cocktails and have a good wine list. Live music on Fridays, when everyone comes out, including the local people, to have a great dinner and dance.
  • Rice Paddy, Pasai Beach (At the edge of the small rice field beginning of Pasai, +66 84-0603080. Small, simple place, but great atmosphere and background music. Quality of ice cream and food (Western and Thai) is amazing, prices reasonable. Gourmet-style meals with ingredients hard to find elsewhere on the island. All meals are available vegetarian with mock meat.
  • Sabai Corner Bungalows. Owned by an Italian. One of the few restaurants offering delicious Italian food. However, make sure that the Italian, Nonna, is residing over the resort kitchen when you eat here. If not, you will be served the Thai chef's interpretation of spaghetti, tomato sauce from a bottle, and cold pasta.
  • Tabaek Viewpoint Bungalow. Owned by Paramote, the local police officer on Ko Yao Noi. His Japanese wife Kazuyo is an excellent Japanese cook. No sushi, but Kazuyo offers up authentic Japanese food for under 75 baht. The set of bungalows is up a dirt road. The top bungalow is Paramote's and this is where the restaurant is located.
  • Thai Hideaway Restaurant. A private pool villa restaurant with amazing views. Fresh seafood BBQs as well as authentic Thai food and sandwiches are available. Book in advance.

Cha's Noodle Shop.

Coconut Island. Delicious seafood suited to budget travellers.

Good View Restaurant. Daily, 10:00-22:00. Really good seafood.

Je t'aime Restaurant, 21/1 Moo 1 (At the market just opposite the 7-Eleven, +66 76-597495. 09:00-22:00. French- and Danish-owned restaurant. At the centre of the island. Serves daily specialities, French and Thai dishes, fresh seafood, freshly made coffee, beer, wine and cocktails. Free Wi-Fi is available for guests.

La Luna, Ko Yao Noi (Between Baan Thakow and Pasai Beach, +66 87461612. Real Italian wood-fired pizza. Romano, the owner, serves other Italian dishes, homemade bread, fine wines and sweet desserts! An open and friendly atmosphere, good music and a great place to hang out.

Lam Sai Lobster Seafood, Ko Yao Noi (At the very southeast corner of the island, 500 m after the inactive Tha Laem Sai Pier.. High quality seafood restaurant with almost no meat dishes (tom yam gai and vegetarian dishes are available). Porch is built onto the sea. Dishes come in the different sizes and prices (e.g. tom yam gung for 180, 250 or 350 baht). A medium sized dish with rice is enough for even a hungry Westerner. 150-500 baht.

The Pyramid Bar & Restaurant. This bar and restaurant is a thatched roof-style bungalow overlooking the sea to Krabi. It is open all year. They have an extensive menu serving everything from Western breakfast, wraps, pasta, to the best burgers and pizza on the island. Everything is homemade: bread, burger buns, tortillas. They also have a very good dessert menu. They serve a variety of beer, cocktails and have a good wine list. Live music on Fridays, when everyone comes out, including the local people, to have a great dinner and dance.

Rice Paddy, Pasai Beach (At the edge of the small rice field beginning of Pasai, +66 84-0603080. Small, simple place, but great atmosphere and background music. Quality of ice cream and food (Western and Thai) is amazing, prices reasonable. Gourmet-style meals with ingredients hard to find elsewhere on the island. All meals are available vegetarian with mock meat.

Sabai Corner Bungalows. Owned by an Italian. One of the few restaurants offering delicious Italian food. However, make sure that the Italian, Nonna, is residing over the resort kitchen when you eat here. If not, you will be served the Thai chef's interpretation of spaghetti, tomato sauce from a bottle, and cold pasta.

Tabaek Viewpoint Bungalow. Owned by Paramote, the local police officer on Ko Yao Noi. His Japanese wife Kazuyo is an excellent Japanese cook. No sushi, but Kazuyo offers up authentic Japanese food for under 75 baht. The set of bungalows is up a dirt road. The top bungalow is Paramote's and this is where the restaurant is located.

Thai Hideaway Restaurant. A private pool villa restaurant with amazing views. Fresh seafood BBQs as well as authentic Thai food and sandwiches are available. Book in advance.

Many of the restaurants also have lively bars.

Being one of the biggest islands in Phang Nga Bay, Ko Yao Noi is home to a hospital, several schools and a post office. 24 hour electricity supply, Internet access, mobile telephone connection and ATMs available.