Kokkola

Finland

The city hall Kokkola (Swedish: Karleby) is a town in Central Ostrobothnia, Finland, with a population of 48,000. It's the largest town in the region, with industry based on chemicals and metals. It was Swedish when it was founded in 1620 and much of it was then underwater: this area is still rebounding from glaciation, at almost 9 mm a year, so the coastline visibly alters. Kokkola was important in the 18th & 19th century for export of tar, an essential commodity in a world built of wood. But it was always losing a race with the receding sea, as its offshore archipelago became a narrow peninsula then a broad headland, and the harbour dwindled to a narrow creek. The modern dockland and industry are now 5 km to the west, so the old wooden town (Neristan) has been well-preserved, and is the main reason to visit.

View of Tankar island

  • Neristan is Swedish for "lower town", the artisan and sailors' quarter (Finnish Vanha kaupunki.) This is a fine old district of wooden houses, one of the best preserved in Finland, laid out on a grid pattern. Oppistan or "upper town" was the more prosperous merchant quarter but less of this has survived. The station area is bland and modern, go north a couple of blocks back to come into the attractive part, bounded to the east by the river and park and to the north by Chydeniuksenkatu. The tourist map suggests a walking route but you can just quarter the streets at random.
  • Museum Quarter, Pitkänsillankatu 28. Tu-Su 11:00-16:00. This is a small city block just south of the new church with four buildings around a grassy square with cafe. The four are Pedagogium the old school house, Lassander House showing life of a prosperous 18th C family, the natural history collection, and the gem and mineral collection. The latter two (east side) are closed for rebuilding following a fire in Jan 2019. Free.
  • K.H. Renlund Art Museum, Pitkänsillankatu 39 (just east of Museum Quarter. Tu-Su 11:00-16:00. Councillor Karl Herman Renlund (1850-1908) donated his art collection to the city, and gives his name to the museum sited at several locations. The bulk of the collection is here in Roos House, built in 1813 by the merchant & shipping Roos family to show off their wealth and classical leanings. Plus modern exhibitions on the ground floor. Free.
  • The English boat.: 19th C Finland was part of the Russian Empire, and in 1854 during the Crimea War a force of British Royal Marines raided the town. They were beaten off, nine were killed, and one boat was captured. It's by the creek along Isokatu, in a boathouse which is locked but has a shop-window front. The British ask for the boat's return, but the Finns decline. It's being looked after nicely (the boathouse is being re-painted in mid-2019) and is safe enough where it is.
  • West Park.: this area was outside town until the 19th C when it was laid out as a public park. At its northwest corner, the Katarina Cemetery is a walled graveyard set up in 1770 on the site of the earlier plague pits. It's surrounded by charnel houses, where those who died in winter were stored until the ground thawed in spring and they could be buried. North a block, note the Orthodox Chapel and 1930-style filling station.
  • Kaarlela Church. Attractive stone church built circa 1460 and extended in the late 18th C; now Lutheran.
  • Kaarlela Museum of Local History and Culture, Kirkkopolku 4 (1 km south of railway station off Ventuksentie. June-mid Aug Tu W F-Su 11:00-16:00. Displays local rural life from the 19th century. There's a windmill, stable, workshop and forge, a smoke sauna, drying barn, cottage, tannery and carding works.
  • Tankar Island. A charming little island with a lighthouse, an old church and a seal-hunting museum plus cafe; it was formerly the base for pilot boats. The lighthouse, built 1889, is an automated steel tower, you can't go inside. The island's main buildings can be reached with strollers or wheelchairs from the jetty by boardwalk and decent track, but other paths (eg the nature trail) are rough going. The ferry MS Jenny makes regular trips June-Aug. It usually leaves at noon for a 90 min crossing, returning at 15:30 for 17:00. Trips sail June-Aug on W F Sa Su, plus late June-mid Aug on Thursday evenings and Tuesday noon. The boat sails from Meripuisto 2.5 km north of the centre, west bank of the creek (same side as the camp site). Bus 7 runs partway there but it's a pleasant 40 min walk from town centre, see "Do". Adult fare €20.

Neristan is Swedish for "lower town", the artisan and sailors' quarter (Finnish Vanha kaupunki.) This is a fine old district of wooden houses, one of the best preserved in Finland, laid out on a grid pattern. Oppistan or "upper town" was the more prosperous merchant quarter but less of this has survived. The station area is bland and modern, go north a couple of blocks back to come into the attractive part, bounded to the east by the river and park and to the north by Chydeniuksenkatu. The tourist map suggests a walking route but you can just quarter the streets at random.

Museum Quarter, Pitkänsillankatu 28. Tu-Su 11:00-16:00. This is a small city block just south of the new church with four buildings around a grassy square with cafe. The four are Pedagogium the old school house, Lassander House showing life of a prosperous 18th C family, the natural history collection, and the gem and mineral collection. The latter two (east side) are closed for rebuilding following a fire in Jan 2019. Free.

K.H. Renlund Art Museum, Pitkänsillankatu 39 (just east of Museum Quarter. Tu-Su 11:00-16:00. Councillor Karl Herman Renlund (1850-1908) donated his art collection to the city, and gives his name to the museum sited at several locations. The bulk of the collection is here in Roos House, built in 1813 by the merchant & shipping Roos family to show off their wealth and classical leanings. Plus modern exhibitions on the ground floor. Free.

The English boat.: 19th C Finland was part of the Russian Empire, and in 1854 during the Crimea War a force of British Royal Marines raided the town. They were beaten off, nine were killed, and one boat was captured. It's by the creek along Isokatu, in a boathouse which is locked but has a shop-window front. The British ask for the boat's return, but the Finns decline. It's being looked after nicely (the boathouse is being re-painted in mid-2019) and is safe enough where it is.

West Park.: this area was outside town until the 19th C when it was laid out as a public park. At its northwest corner, the Katarina Cemetery is a walled graveyard set up in 1770 on the site of the earlier plague pits. It's surrounded by charnel houses, where those who died in winter were stored until the ground thawed in spring and they could be buried. North a block, note the Orthodox Chapel and 1930-style filling station.

Kaarlela Church. Attractive stone church built circa 1460 and extended in the late 18th C; now Lutheran.

Kaarlela Museum of Local History and Culture, Kirkkopolku 4 (1 km south of railway station off Ventuksentie. June-mid Aug Tu W F-Su 11:00-16:00. Displays local rural life from the 19th century. There's a windmill, stable, workshop and forge, a smoke sauna, drying barn, cottage, tannery and carding works.

Tankar Island. A charming little island with a lighthouse, an old church and a seal-hunting museum plus cafe; it was formerly the base for pilot boats. The lighthouse, built 1889, is an automated steel tower, you can't go inside. The island's main buildings can be reached with strollers or wheelchairs from the jetty by boardwalk and decent track, but other paths (eg the nature trail) are rough going. The ferry MS Jenny makes regular trips June-Aug. It usually leaves at noon for a 90 min crossing, returning at 15:30 for 17:00. Trips sail June-Aug on W F Sa Su, plus late June-mid Aug on Thursday evenings and Tuesday noon. The boat sails from Meripuisto 2.5 km north of the centre, west bank of the creek (same side as the camp site). Bus 7 runs partway there but it's a pleasant 40 min walk from town centre, see "Do". Adult fare €20.

  • Kokkola City Theatre, Torikatu 48. The theatre has a regular programme of entertainment, but only in Finnish.
  • Walk or cycle north along the creek to the sea shore, 2.5 km. There are tarmac paths both sides, but the west bank is more pleasant, a bosky parkland of native birch and fir. At the ring road Pohjoisväylä / Norraleden (where in mid-2019 the creek is culverted for construction works) you need to swing briefly onto the east bank. Then take the footbridge by the supermarket to return to the west bank path, for the campsite and ferry to Tankar Island.
  • Kokkola Cup is an annual football (soccer) tournament for under-18s held in and around town in July. The next event is 18-21 July 2019.
  • The Venetian Festival (Venetsialaiset) at the end of August is when people close up their summer cabins and cottages and have a party, before the September nights and cold winds set in. There's a lot of bonfires, lights and fireworks - hence the name, as fireworks were introduced to Finland from Italy and became known as "Venetian lights". The next event is 30-31 Aug 2019.
  • Live music is often on at local bars and pubs, eg at Bar West Coast on Rantakatu 16.
  • Classical music: the Ostrobothnian Chamber Orchestra often play at Snellman Hall, Kokkola.
  • Anniversary: The city's anniversary is celebrated on 7 Sept. The big one will be in 2020, with a series of events leading up to 7 Sept 2020, the 400th anniversary. The programme has not yet been announced.

Kokkola City Theatre, Torikatu 48. The theatre has a regular programme of entertainment, but only in Finnish.

Walk or cycle north along the creek to the sea shore, 2.5 km. There are tarmac paths both sides, but the west bank is more pleasant, a bosky parkland of native birch and fir. At the ring road Pohjoisväylä / Norraleden (where in mid-2019 the creek is culverted for construction works) you need to swing briefly onto the east bank. Then take the footbridge by the supermarket to return to the west bank path, for the campsite and ferry to Tankar Island.

Kokkola Cup is an annual football (soccer) tournament for under-18s held in and around town in July. The next event is 18-21 July 2019.

The Venetian Festival (Venetsialaiset) at the end of August is when people close up their summer cabins and cottages and have a party, before the September nights and cold winds set in. There's a lot of bonfires, lights and fireworks - hence the name, as fireworks were introduced to Finland from Italy and became known as "Venetian lights". The next event is 30-31 Aug 2019.

Live music is often on at local bars and pubs, eg at Bar West Coast on Rantakatu 16.

Classical music: the Ostrobothnian Chamber Orchestra often play at Snellman Hall, Kokkola.

Anniversary: The city's anniversary is celebrated on 7 Sept. The big one will be in 2020, with a series of events leading up to 7 Sept 2020, the 400th anniversary. The programme has not yet been announced.

There are many larger stores and smaller shops as it is regional centre.

Old town view

There are at least three fast-food franchises, over ten pizzerias and many small cafés and food stalls, plus Italian, Chinese and (sort-of) Mexican. The main concentration is in and around Chydenia mall near the railway and bus stations.

  • Rosso, Isokatu 4 (in Chydenia mall. M-Sa 11:00-21:00, Su 12:00-21:00. Mid-range chain restaurant with Italian food.

Rosso, Isokatu 4 (in Chydenia mall. M-Sa 11:00-21:00, Su 12:00-21:00. Mid-range chain restaurant with Italian food.

  • West Coast Billiard, Rantakatu 16 (corner with Torikatu. Downstairs bar with pool tables and live music. Tu-Th & Su 18:00-00:00, F Sa 18:00-04:00.
  • Corner's Pub, corner of Rantakatu and Torikatu (by Hotel Seurahuone. Tu-Su 20:00-03:00. Small mellow place.
  • Huismann, Torikatu 27, Kauppatori. M-Th 16:00-00:00, F Sa 14:00-02:00. Sports bar with good selection of beers.
  • Calle Nightclub, Kauppatori 4. Gets awfully crowded and difficut to get served.
  • Reino Nightclub (formerly Socis) is in Hotel Seurohuone (listed below), F Sa 23:00-03:30.
  • Vanha Kippari, Satamakatu 12 (out west in Ykspihlaja near docks. M-F 15:00-23:00, Sa 12:00-02:00, Su 12:00-23:00. Handy for industrial zone.

West Coast Billiard, Rantakatu 16 (corner with Torikatu. Downstairs bar with pool tables and live music. Tu-Th & Su 18:00-00:00, F Sa 18:00-04:00.

Corner's Pub, corner of Rantakatu and Torikatu (by Hotel Seurahuone. Tu-Su 20:00-03:00. Small mellow place.

Huismann, Torikatu 27, Kauppatori. M-Th 16:00-00:00, F Sa 14:00-02:00. Sports bar with good selection of beers.

Calle Nightclub, Kauppatori 4. Gets awfully crowded and difficut to get served.

Vanha Kippari, Satamakatu 12 (out west in Ykspihlaja near docks. M-F 15:00-23:00, Sa 12:00-02:00, Su 12:00-23:00. Handy for industrial zone.

  • Kalajoki 68 km north has sandy beaches where you can swim in the Gulf of Bothnia in the summer.
  • Raahe 126 km north is an industrial town.
  • Oulu 200 km north is the largest city in Northern Finland with many sights and activities, eg the excellent Science Museum.
  • Jakobstad (Pietarsaari) 36 km south, which still has a Swedish-speaking majority, has an extensive wooden town, the ship replica Jacobstads Wapen and the botanical garden.
  • Vaasa (Vasa) 121 km south is Ostrobothnia's "capital", with plenty of history and with a ferry across the gulf to Umeå in Sweden.