Kota Bharu

Malaysia

Kota Bharu

Kota Bharu (also Kota Bahru or Kota Baru) is the state capital of Kelantan, on the east coast of peninsular Malaysia. Many travellers simply pass through on their way to the Perhentian Islands, but those who spend a few days in KB have the chance to go to some of the museums mentioned below, eat some delicious food, look at a unique style of traditional architecture and get a little bit of the feel of a city that has an interesting cultural identity all its own.

Kota Bharu is the vibrant capital of the state of Kelantan, whose unique culture and dialect are proudly promoted and sustained in all aspects that do not conflict with orthodox Islam. Visitors can experience local culture in the form of the Thai- and Indian-influenced cuisine, dress (the state is probably the most famous for batik in Malaysia), handicrafts, some traditional architecture, museums showing the state's cultural heritage, and the sound of the Kelantanese dialect. Speakers of standard Malay may not be able to understand the local dialect, although if you speak standard Malay, locals will understand you and reply in standard Malay. You can hear Bahasa Kelantan not only in the markets and on the streets but also on local radio stations, and most shop signs are written in both standard romanized Malay and the Arabic-based Jawi script (even the shops with English names still spell out the English words in Jawi letters!).

Kota Bharu is a very socially conservative city in a state ruled by the Islamic Party of Malaysia (PAS). Visitors will hear the azan (call for prayer) from many mosques 5 times a day, and the khutbah (sermon) may also be broadcast from some mosques with loudspeakers. Visitors should be prepared for breaks to be taken in many places including the Pasar Malam (Night Market) during Islamic prayer times.

Pasar Kota Bharu itself offers many museums near Independence Square (Padang Merdeka). Several of the museums and the nearby Istana Balai Besar (the downtown Royal Palace) were built in a unique kind of elegant architecture that is well worth seeing. Arguably the most amazing building is the central market (Pasar Besar). It is an octagonal building in the centre of town and houses a very colourful and active market every day. Nearby is a plain square which turns into the local food market in the evenings (Pasar Malam = Night Market).

Some visitors (particularly those interested in the history and cultural heritage of Kelantan) may also find the Muzium Negeri Kelantan (Kelantan State Museum) on Jalan Hospital 15000 of interest.

The following museums in Kota Bharu are all open from 08:30-16:45 every day except Fridays, when they are closed:

  • Muzium Kraftangan. Handicrafts Museum, with attached gift shop selling handicrafts
  • Muzium Negeri. State Museum, see above
  • Memorial Peperangan Dunia Ke II, Jalan Hospital, +60 9-747 6266. This is not just a memorial but a small museum, housed in a former bank building that was used by the Japanese as a secret police station when they occupied Malaya. It's worth a quick visit for history buffs.
  • Muzium Diraja. Royal Museum, which contains photos of the current and previous Sultans and such-like
  • Muzium Islam. Museum of Islam
  • Muzium Adat Istiadat Diraja Kelantan. Museum of Royal Kelantanese Traditions, which contains interesting artifacts and exhibits for those interested in cultural history

Great temples to visit in the nearby towns to Kota Bharu Town: near Tumpat there is Wat Pothivihan (huge reclining Buddha), Wat Mai Suwan Khiri (dragon Boat & standing Buddha), Wat Chonprachumthat at Kg. Dalam, Wat Machimarran Varran (sitting Buddha), and Wat Serova Buddhist Temples (Goddess of Mercy - Kuan Yin). At Bachok, there is a 30 m high standing Buddha at Wat Phothikyan and a Kuan Yin temple facing the South China Sea nearby.

  • Cultural Show at Culture Centre 3 times a week on Saturday 15:00-16:45 & 20:00-23:30, Monday 15:00-16:45, Wednesday 15:00-16:45 & 20:00-00:00.
  • River cruise along Sungai Galas down to Dabong (2 hours).
  • Explore the caves at Gua Ikan,Dabong.
  • Stong Waterfall, reputed to be the highest in Southeast Asia at about 990 metres.
  • Mount Stong State Park. One of the main attractions at the state park is Gunung Stong, Mt.Stong (1,422 metres), a dome-shaped granite complex more than 500 million years old.
  • Nenggiri Rafting Adventure - The selected leg of the journey covers approximately about 50 km, departing from Kuala Betis / Gua Cha and ends up at Kampung Star.

Muzium Kraftangan. Handicrafts Museum, with attached gift shop selling handicrafts

Muzium Negeri. State Museum, see above

Memorial Peperangan Dunia Ke II, Jalan Hospital, +60 9-747 6266. This is not just a memorial but a small museum, housed in a former bank building that was used by the Japanese as a secret police station when they occupied Malaya. It's worth a quick visit for history buffs.

Muzium Diraja. Royal Museum, which contains photos of the current and previous Sultans and such-like

Muzium Islam. Museum of Islam

Muzium Adat Istiadat Diraja Kelantan. Museum of Royal Kelantanese Traditions, which contains interesting artifacts and exhibits for those interested in cultural history

  • Go to the day and night markets. Have Nasi Kerabu for lunch at the day market and Ayam Percik at the night market.
  • Walk around the downtown area.
  • Bicycle around Pengkalan Chepa area (airport), see old WW2 British pillboxes near beach at Pantai Sabak. For history buffs only but no beach anymore due to erosion.
  • Go to the beach, either PCB Beach or Irama Beach (Beach of Melody). PCB Beach has batik shops, one of which is Citra Batik about 500 m from the beach. Also eat fried seafood at PCB Beach or Irama Beach with coconut water.
  • Beautiful beaches at Bachok - Pantai Perkasa, Pantai Sungai Dua, Pantai Kandis.
  • Sultan Muhammad IV Stadium.

Sultan Muhammad IV Stadium.

Wau bulan for sale

  • Hand-printed batik clothes. Kota Bharu Trade Centre (KBTC), which offers a variety of choices, is located just beside Pasar Siti Khadijah. Other places to buy hand-printed batik include Citra Batik at PCB Beach or at the KB Mall in town which has higher prices but is more convenient.
  • Silverware - at the touristy museum in Kota Bharu town.
  • Crystals and gemstones - you can find them at the local wet market or morning market or specialist shops. Emerald (locals call them zamrud), ruby, sapphire, topaz, tiger's eye, etc. can be found. But beware as there are many fakes sold.
  • Kites - Miniature wau bulan are a local handicraft, but they are expensive and don't fly, so don't get them except for souvenirs. It is better to buy the plastic types for children because those kites can fly.

  • Tesco Hypermarket, Lot 1828 seksyen 17, +60 9-743-3366. 08:30-23:00. UK owned supermarket. lower prices.
  • Giant Hypermarket, Trade Centre Jalan Padang Garong, +60 9-7413001. 09:30-22:00.
  • Pacific Hypermarket, KB Mall Jalan Hamzan. 08:00-22:00.
  • Mydin Department Store, Lot 69 Jalan Pintu Pong, +60 9-7482864. 09:30-20:00. lower price.
  • The Store, 127 JL Parit Dalam Bandar. 09:00-21:00. Supermarket & department store.

Tesco Hypermarket, Lot 1828 seksyen 17, +60 9-743-3366. 08:30-23:00. UK owned supermarket. lower prices.

Giant Hypermarket, Trade Centre Jalan Padang Garong, +60 9-7413001. 09:30-22:00.

Pacific Hypermarket, KB Mall Jalan Hamzan. 08:00-22:00.

Mydin Department Store, Lot 69 Jalan Pintu Pong, +60 9-7482864. 09:30-20:00. lower price.

The Store, 127 JL Parit Dalam Bandar. 09:00-21:00. Supermarket & department store.

Kota Bharu is full of delicious Kelantanese food, a unique cuisine influenced by Thai and Indian styles, among others. Lots of goodies are to be found in the pasars and in coffee shops throughout the city. Chinese food is also available at various restaurants and food courts.

Among the local specialities are:

  • Ayam Percik, chicken which is roasted over a wood fire and combined with coconut/peanut sauce and delicious local herbs and greens. Yati Ayam Percik (847, Jalan Long Yunus) has got to be the best around (take a bicycle from your guesthouse to arrive there, it's about 2 km from the centre);
  • Nasi Ulam (locally called Nasi Kerabu), rice with fragrant, fresh-picked leaves and shoots, traditionally dipped into budu (fish sauce), sambal belacan (shrimp paste with hot pepper, et al.) or/and tempoyak (fermented durian sauce); You can find it in the morning at the Central Market first floor foodcourt.
  • Nasi Dagang Kelantan. The slightly glutinous-textured rice is cooked in coconut, and similar to Nasi Dagang Terengganu, except the Kelantanese rice grains have a tint of maroon. Served with either a fish or chicken gravy, it is a local favourite breakfast food.
  • Murtabak, savory or sweet crêpes. Murtabak Raja (Royal Murtabak) is the famous one on Jalan Bayam. They sell takeaway Murtabak and sweets, the staff is really nice and friendly.
  • If you visit around Hari Raya time, don't miss the chance to try Tapai, which is sweet fermented cassava or rice, wrapped in tapioca leaves. If you like tea, wash everything down with Teh O (tea with sugar) or Teh Susu (tea with sweetened condensed milk).
  • Keropok Lekor Losong (the local version is Keropok Gote), originally from Losong village and considered by Kelantanese to be the benchmark of all fish paste sausages. Comes fried or boiled. Kelantan Keropok Gote is not like Terengganu Kerepok Lekor Losong; it is thicker at about 4 cm.
  • Durian puffs (locally called Lepok Durian or Gelembung Buaya, they are in 3 colours: red, yellow and green), at Kubang Pasu wet market in the mornings - for durian lovers with strong stomachs only. These delicious pastries are sold at the wet market surrounded by fish. Buy from the lady at the corner, not in the middle of wet market.
  • Morning Satay, same lady, but not so delicious. Just for the experience. It also can be found in various restaurants in town. There are a few famous satay sellers like Satay Baung, Satay Suria, etc.

For Chinese food, go to:

  • Jalan Kebun Sultan - restaurants opposite Public Bank, and food court
  • Jalan Post Office Lama - restaurants.

For Thai food, try restaurants in Taman Cemerlang and in nearby Wakaf Bharu town.

Ayam Percik, chicken which is roasted over a wood fire and combined with coconut/peanut sauce and delicious local herbs and greens. Yati Ayam Percik (847, Jalan Long Yunus) has got to be the best around (take a bicycle from your guesthouse to arrive there, it's about 2 km from the centre);

  • Coconut water from the fruit, then scrape and eat the flesh
  • Beer - Chinese restaurants serve beer to non-Muslims.

There are a few watering holes in KB - one has a disco feel about it (called Restoran), a few have a few "Thai drinks promoters".

  • Soon Lee Agency, +60 9-7446689. Selling wines, spirits and beers. Address: 5565-D Jalan Pengkalan Chepa (in city center, on the way to Thai Consulate). Operating: 10:30-18:30.

Soon Lee Agency, +60 9-7446689. Selling wines, spirits and beers. Address: 5565-D Jalan Pengkalan Chepa (in city center, on the way to Thai Consulate). Operating: 10:30-18:30.

Be respectful of the cultural and religious sensibilities of Kota Bharu's primarily Muslim inhabitants. There is no need for non-Muslim women to wear a tudung (scarf over the hair), but both men and women should consider wearing clothing which covers their torso completely.

From the airport, train station (in Wakaf Bharu), and city you can take a taxi (45-60 min; RM60-80) to Kuala Besut for regular boat connections to the Perhentian Islands. There is also a direct bus service to Kuala Besut Jetty - take bus 639 from the central station (6RM), the trip takes 1:30-2:00 hours and services by Cityliner Kelantan Bhd. leaves at 06:15, 07:30, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:39, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:30, 18:30. The bus has no AC and is quite dirty and with doors open to get some fresh air gets very dusty. The same company also offers slightly discounted fast boat tickets at their Kota Bharu bus station ticket counter.

  • Sungai Kolok
  • Tak Bai (via Ban Taba)