Bandar Seri Begawan

Bandar Seri Begawan, also known as BSB or just Bandar, is the capital of Brunei.

• Tourist Information Centre. Don't get your hopes up—they're friendly but not especially knowledgeable. They do have useful maps of the city, at least.

Tourist Information Centre. Don't get your hopes up—they're friendly but not especially knowledgeable. They do have useful maps of the city, at least.

Don't expect to find much tasteful and stunning architecture like you would normally find in Southeast Asia. Here, most of the buildings are just plain and box-shaped. However, an interesting twist to the billboards around here, is that the "Jawi" (Arabicized Malay writing) are prevalent among them. Sometimes, foreign names are translated literally, e.g. "Pizza Hut" to "Pondok Pizza".

• Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, Jalan Elizabeth II. Sa–Th 8:30AM–noon, 1:30PM–3PM, 4:30PM–5:30PM; F 4:30PM–5:30PM. Open to visitors when it is not being used for prayers (opening times are posted by the gate). The mosque is very welcoming and if your clothes aren't considered appropriate you'll be given a robe upon entry. Remove your shoes before entering and be respectfully quiet inside as there may be some people there meditating and praying. The mosque is visible from around the centre of the city, but the entrance is located on Jalan McArthur, just south of Jalan Elizabeth Dua. Free entry.
• Jame'Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque, Jalan Stadium Negara Hassanal Bolkiah, +673 223 8741. M-W Sa 08:00–12:00, 14:00–15:00; Su 10:30–12:00, 14:00–15:00; Th F closed (for non-Muslim visitors). Another mosque, that resembles Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque. Whereas Omar Ali Saifuddin mosque is built to commemorate Sultan Omar, this mosque is to commemorate the current reigning Sultan. Visitors, including non-Muslims, can go inside after removing shoes and covering up with a black robe.
• Kampong Ayer. The water village is a beautiful sight to see hundreds of houses seemingly floating on water. The village, which is the world's biggest settlement on stilts, has been on the river for over one thousand years and was the capital of the Bruneian Empire. The water village people are very friendly and many open up their homes to visitors year-round. For a tour by boat, water taxis can be found by walking along the Brunei river or the main market in Bandar Seri Begawan and waving one down. Try to negotiate the price down—you shouldn't pay more than B$30 for an hour-long tour (B$15 for half an hour) of Kampong Ayer. Even though the water taxis are not wheelchair-friendly, their drivers are very willing to lend a hand and even team up and carry a person in a wheelchair on board; ask for a larger boat though.
  
  But to really experience the water village, you've got to walk around and explore it. You can take a water taxi across for $1 per person (a 2-minute ride). Ask the driver to take you to the gallery (Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery.), which has a detailed exhibition of the history of Kampong Ayer and some lovely artistic souvenirs for sale. The gallery is open 9AM–5PM, but closes Friday 11AM–2:30PM for Friday prayers. The observation tower next to the gallery has views of the water village and the city center. Then don't just stay at the edge of the village near the gallery – go into the village and walk around. Not many tourists seem to go in, so you may get curious hellos from residents, especially children. You'll see people going about their ordinary routines, which feels almost surreal since it's all suspended a few meters above the river. If you look around you might spot a mosque, schools, whimsically colorful buildings, and even chickens. The boardwalks might make you nervous, but there's no reason to worry – just watch your step. They're more stable than they look, and even if you did somehow lose your balance and fall in, it's just a short swim to the nearest ladder – in a way it's safer than walking next to a busy street. Don't wear high heels though.
  
  If you don't want to shell out for the ride, you can also walk into the village – start from behind the Sultan's Mosque or from the other bank in Batu Satu. Free entry.
• Royal Regalia Museum, Jalan Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien (entrance on Jalan Sultan, next to the Brunei History Centre, between Jalan Stoney and Jalan James Pearce., +673 224 4545. Open daily 09:00–16:30 (but closed Friday 11:30–14:30 for Friday prayers). It displays the royal accessories utilised during the coronation, and some reproductions, as well as gifts received by the Sultan from dignitaries and civilians all around the world. Definitely worth checking out. If you don't have time to visit both, and need to choose between this museum or "Brunei Museum" at Kota Batu, choose this one. Photography isn't allowed; you have to leave bags, phones, and cameras in a locker when you come in. You have to take off shoes and the floors are marble, so wear socks. Has a gift shop with souvenirs. Free entrance.
• Istana Nurul Iman. The residential palace of the Sultan. It is not possible to enter, yet the huge size of the palace attracts tourists to snap picture in front of the gate. The palace is however, hidden behind the landscapes, so a better picture can be seen in flyers or souvenirs that feature it.
• Brunei Museum. 9AM-5PM. Has just closed for a undetermined period of time, maybe until 2016. Though had an excellent display in the Islamic Art Gallery. It is highly recommended.
• After visiting the Brunei Museum, walk along the road toward BSB to visit two tombs: the first is the Tomb of Sharif Ali, the third sultan of Brunei. The green sign by the road is written entirely in Arabic lettering. Further down the road is the Tomb of Sultan Bolkiah, the fifth sultan of Brunei. Both tombs are in easy walking distance from the Museum.
• Malay Technology Museum. This place has many exhibits featuring the different style of houses and lifestyle of those who live on the water village. Free.
• Tasek Lama Recreational Park, Jln Tasek Lama. 6AM - 6PM. Huge park close to the city with lots of walking trails and a waterfall. Free entrance.
• Kianggeh Canal. A small canal near the Kianggeh Market, there are sometimes monitor lizards inside the canal and monkeys nearby.
• Proboscis monkeys. Take a boat along the rivers that snake through the swampy jungle near the capital, and scan the trees to try to spot the monkeys (your driver will look too). Keen eyes help, and bring binoculars if you have them. Also keep your eyes out for beautiful white birds and monitor lizards. Leave at around 5PM for the best chance of seeing proboscis monkeys—head to one of the waterfront jetties (near the tourist information centre) and ask one of the boats to take you to see the monkeys. The trip lasts about 30 minutes to an hour. Roughly $15-30 or $10 per person; you might have to haggle a bit.
• Teng Yun Temple, Jalan Sungai Kianggeh and Jalan Elizabeth Dua. A smallish Chinese temple.

Small market town with population of 21,000, 24 km west of Bandar Seri Begawan.

• Jerudong Park, +673 261 1777. Th 4PM-11PM, F 3PM-11:30PM, Sa Su 10AM-11:30PM. It was one of the best parks back in 2000s, but these days of glory are faded away long time ago. It got some renovation in 2015 but anyway still some parts of it look abandoned. It consists of two parts: playground and water park. B$20, residents B$15.

Jerudong Park, +673 261 1777. Th 4PM-11PM, F 3PM-11:30PM, Sa Su 10AM-11:30PM. It was one of the best parks back in 2000s, but these days of glory are faded away long time ago. It got some renovation in 2015 but anyway still some parts of it look abandoned. It consists of two parts: playground and water park. B$20, residents B$15.

Small town on the north-eastern tip of Brunei where the country's only deep-water port is located.

• Muara Beach. Beautiful beach with food stalls, playground and washrooms.

Muara Beach. Beautiful beach with food stalls, playground and washrooms.

Another small town with population around 10,000 people close to Muara.

• Serasa Beach. Beach got a major face lift in 2015 and now features stylish restaurants, showers, walking trails.

Serasa Beach. Beach got a major face lift in 2015 and now features stylish restaurants, showers, walking trails.

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, Jalan Elizabeth II. Sa–Th 8:30AM–noon, 1:30PM–3PM, 4:30PM–5:30PM; F 4:30PM–5:30PM. Open to visitors when it is not being used for prayers (opening times are posted by the gate). The mosque is very welcoming and if your clothes aren't considered appropriate you'll be given a robe upon entry. Remove your shoes before entering and be respectfully quiet inside as there may be some people there meditating and praying. The mosque is visible from around the centre of the city, but the entrance is located on Jalan McArthur, just south of Jalan Elizabeth Dua. Free entry.

Jame'Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque, Jalan Stadium Negara Hassanal Bolkiah, +673 223 8741. M-W Sa 08:00–12:00, 14:00–15:00; Su 10:30–12:00, 14:00–15:00; Th F closed (for non-Muslim visitors). Another mosque, that resembles Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque. Whereas Omar Ali Saifuddin mosque is built to commemorate Sultan Omar, this mosque is to commemorate the current reigning Sultan. Visitors, including non-Muslims, can go inside after removing shoes and covering up with a black robe.

Kampong Ayer. The water village is a beautiful sight to see hundreds of houses seemingly floating on water. The village, which is the world's biggest settlement on stilts, has been on the river for over one thousand years and was the capital of the Bruneian Empire. The water village people are very friendly and many open up their homes to visitors year-round. For a tour by boat, water taxis can be found by walking along the Brunei river or the main market in Bandar Seri Begawan and waving one down. Try to negotiate the price down—you shouldn't pay more than B$30 for an hour-long tour (B$15 for half an hour) of Kampong Ayer. Even though the water taxis are not wheelchair-friendly, their drivers are very willing to lend a hand and even team up and carry a person in a wheelchair on board; ask for a larger boat though.

But to really experience the water village, you've got to walk around and explore it. You can take a water taxi across for $1 per person (a 2-minute ride). Ask the driver to take you to the gallery (Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery.), which has a detailed exhibition of the history of Kampong Ayer and some lovely artistic souvenirs for sale. The gallery is open 9AM–5PM, but closes Friday 11AM–2:30PM for Friday prayers. The observation tower next to the gallery has views of the water village and the city center. Then don't just stay at the edge of the village near the gallery – go into the village and walk around. Not many tourists seem to go in, so you may get curious hellos from residents, especially children. You'll see people going about their ordinary routines, which feels almost surreal since it's all suspended a few meters above the river. If you look around you might spot a mosque, schools, whimsically colorful buildings, and even chickens. The boardwalks might make you nervous, but there's no reason to worry – just watch your step. They're more stable than they look, and even if you did somehow lose your balance and fall in, it's just a short swim to the nearest ladder – in a way it's safer than walking next to a busy street. Don't wear high heels though.

If you don't want to shell out for the ride, you can also walk into the village – start from behind the Sultan's Mosque or from the other bank in Batu Satu. Free entry.

Royal Regalia Museum, Jalan Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien (entrance on Jalan Sultan, next to the Brunei History Centre, between Jalan Stoney and Jalan James Pearce., +673 224 4545. Open daily 09:00–16:30 (but closed Friday 11:30–14:30 for Friday prayers). It displays the royal accessories utilised during the coronation, and some reproductions, as well as gifts received by the Sultan from dignitaries and civilians all around the world. Definitely worth checking out. If you don't have time to visit both, and need to choose between this museum or "Brunei Museum" at Kota Batu, choose this one. Photography isn't allowed; you have to leave bags, phones, and cameras in a locker when you come in. You have to take off shoes and the floors are marble, so wear socks. Has a gift shop with souvenirs. Free entrance.

Istana Nurul Iman. The residential palace of the Sultan. It is not possible to enter, yet the huge size of the palace attracts tourists to snap picture in front of the gate. The palace is however, hidden behind the landscapes, so a better picture can be seen in flyers or souvenirs that feature it.

Brunei Museum. 9AM-5PM. Has just closed for a undetermined period of time, maybe until 2016. Though had an excellent display in the Islamic Art Gallery. It is highly recommended.

After visiting the Brunei Museum, walk along the road toward BSB to visit two tombs: the first is the Tomb of Sharif Ali, the third sultan of Brunei. The green sign by the road is written entirely in Arabic lettering. Further down the road is the Tomb of Sultan Bolkiah, the fifth sultan of Brunei. Both tombs are in easy walking distance from the Museum.

Malay Technology Museum. This place has many exhibits featuring the different style of houses and lifestyle of those who live on the water village. Free.

Tasek Lama Recreational Park, Jln Tasek Lama. 6AM - 6PM. Huge park close to the city with lots of walking trails and a waterfall. Free entrance.

Kianggeh Canal. A small canal near the Kianggeh Market, there are sometimes monitor lizards inside the canal and monkeys nearby.

Proboscis monkeys. Take a boat along the rivers that snake through the swampy jungle near the capital, and scan the trees to try to spot the monkeys (your driver will look too). Keen eyes help, and bring binoculars if you have them. Also keep your eyes out for beautiful white birds and monitor lizards. Leave at around 5PM for the best chance of seeing proboscis monkeys—head to one of the waterfront jetties (near the tourist information centre) and ask one of the boats to take you to see the monkeys. The trip lasts about 30 minutes to an hour. Roughly $15-30 or $10 per person; you might have to haggle a bit.

Teng Yun Temple, Jalan Sungai Kianggeh and Jalan Elizabeth Dua. A smallish Chinese temple.

Every year, for three days at the end of Ramadan, the sultan of Brunei, Hassanal Bolkiah, opens his palace (Istana Nurul Iman) to the public. This event is primarily intended for the citizens of Brunei to meet their sultan, but foreigners are welcome too. Prepare to queue up for hours; even the queue for security alone takes over an hour. In the palace, free meals are distributed amongst all visitors; there is a wide choice. You can then queue up again in order to meet the sultan himself. You won't have the opportunity to exchange more than a handshake and a few words with him, but it's still a unique opportunity to meet a head of state.

Unfortunately, the sultan only meets men. Fortunately though, women can meet his wife, Queen Saleha, in similar arrangements on the same three days.

Several currency exchange places can be found downtown.

• Night Market, Simpang 37, Gadong (possible to walk to, but kind of a pain because of the inconsistent sidewalks and lack of crosswalks. A lively market in an open-air building. Half of it is full of vendors selling fruit (lots of durian), clothes, and miscellaneous goods. The other half has cheap street food, including sweet drinks and a lot of fried stuff, mostly for $1 each.
• The Mall. A good place to shop for supplies, or to check out some local department stores. Surprisingly few multi-national brands. Located in Gadong, it is combined with the Rizqun Hotel. It also has a good souvenir shop.
• Yayasan. Built by the sultan to support the welfare of the people. Located in central Bandar.
• Brunei Products & Souvenir Centre. Souvenir shop downtown near the waterfront.

Night Market, Simpang 37, Gadong (possible to walk to, but kind of a pain because of the inconsistent sidewalks and lack of crosswalks. A lively market in an open-air building. Half of it is full of vendors selling fruit (lots of durian), clothes, and miscellaneous goods. The other half has cheap street food, including sweet drinks and a lot of fried stuff, mostly for $1 each.

The Mall. A good place to shop for supplies, or to check out some local department stores. Surprisingly few multi-national brands. Located in Gadong, it is combined with the Rizqun Hotel. It also has a good souvenir shop.

Yayasan. Built by the sultan to support the welfare of the people. Located in central Bandar.

Brunei Products & Souvenir Centre. Souvenir shop downtown near the waterfront.

• Kianggeh Market. A covered market in downtown. You can get Nasi Katok, Teh Tarik, or a kilogram of raw vegetables or sapit for B$1. cash only.
• Aminah Arif Restaurant. One of a few local restaurants that features the Bruneian delicacy ambuyat and a pretty good range of other food too.
• RMS Portview, opposite the Yayasan Shopping Centre. The terrace offers a great view overlooking Kampong Ayer, great for cooling down after sightseeing.
• Gerai Makan, on the waterfront in the southeastern corner of the city, just across a bridge. Here there are a number of outdoor restaurants serving cheap and tasty fare. It's a great place to relax and soak in the local atmosphere. Great views of stilt villages and water taxis speeding back and forth.
• PGS Cafe, near the Palm Garden at Kiulap. Charges buffet dining at B$6 per head in a pleasant air-conditioned restaurant.

There are plenty of small local Kedai Kopi (coffee shops) in town that sell simple, cheap and tasty food and are frequented by locals.

Kianggeh Market. A covered market in downtown. You can get Nasi Katok, Teh Tarik, or a kilogram of raw vegetables or sapit for B$1. cash only.

Aminah Arif Restaurant. One of a few local restaurants that features the Bruneian delicacy ambuyat and a pretty good range of other food too.

RMS Portview, opposite the Yayasan Shopping Centre. The terrace offers a great view overlooking Kampong Ayer, great for cooling down after sightseeing.

Gerai Makan, on the waterfront in the southeastern corner of the city, just across a bridge. Here there are a number of outdoor restaurants serving cheap and tasty fare. It's a great place to relax and soak in the local atmosphere. Great views of stilt villages and water taxis speeding back and forth.

PGS Cafe, near the Palm Garden at Kiulap. Charges buffet dining at B$6 per head in a pleasant air-conditioned restaurant.

• Tagz Lounge, Sheraton Utama Hotel. The closest you can get to a bar in an alcohol-free country, here you can bring your own booze and buy the mixers. Access theoretically only for hotel guests, but getting in is rarely a problem.

Tagz Lounge, Sheraton Utama Hotel. The closest you can get to a bar in an alcohol-free country, here you can bring your own booze and buy the mixers. Access theoretically only for hotel guests, but getting in is rarely a problem.

Crime is very uncommon in this tightly controlled small country.

• Australia Australia, Level 6, DAR Takaful IBB Utama, Jalan Pemancha. M–F 8AM–5PM; appointment required (book online).
• Canada Canada, 5F, Jalan McArthur Bldg No. 1, Jalan McArthur, +673 222 0043. M-Th 8:30AM-noon and 1PM-5:30PM, F 8:30AM-2PM.
• China China, NO.1,3,5 Simpang 462, Campong Sungai Hanching, Jalan Muara, +673 2 334163.
• Indonesia Indonesia, Simpang 336-43, Jalan Kebangsaan, Kampung Kawasan Diplomatik, Mukim Kianggeh, Brunei Muara, +673 2330180.
• Japan Japan, 33, Simpang 122, Kampong Kiulap, +673 222-9265. M–F 8:30AM–noon, 1PM–5PM.
• Malaysia Malaysia, No. 61, Simpang 336, Jalan Duta, +673 2381095, +673 2381096, +673 2381097. M–Th 8AM–12:15PM, 1:30PM–4:30PM F 8AM–noon, 2:15PM–4:30PM.
• United States United States, Simpang 336-52-16-9, Jalan Kebangsaan, +673 238-4616. M-F 7:45AM-4:30PM.

Australia Australia, Level 6, DAR Takaful IBB Utama, Jalan Pemancha. M–F 8AM–5PM; appointment required (book online).

Canada Canada, 5F, Jalan McArthur Bldg No. 1, Jalan McArthur, +673 222 0043. M-Th 8:30AM-noon and 1PM-5:30PM, F 8:30AM-2PM.

China China, NO.1,3,5 Simpang 462, Campong Sungai Hanching, Jalan Muara, +673 2 334163.

Indonesia Indonesia, Simpang 336-43, Jalan Kebangsaan, Kampung Kawasan Diplomatik, Mukim Kianggeh, Brunei Muara, +673 2330180.

Japan Japan, 33, Simpang 122, Kampong Kiulap, +673 222-9265. M–F 8:30AM–noon, 1PM–5PM.

Malaysia Malaysia, No. 61, Simpang 336, Jalan Duta, +673 2381095, +673 2381096, +673 2381097. M–Th 8AM–12:15PM, 1:30PM–4:30PM F 8AM–noon, 2:15PM–4:30PM.

United States United States, Simpang 336-52-16-9, Jalan Kebangsaan, +673 238-4616. M-F 7:45AM-4:30PM.

• Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, 11 Jalan Kumbang Pasang.
• St. Andrew's Anglican Church, Jalan Kumbang Pasang. Sunday services in English (liturgical at 7:45AM and contemporary at 10AM), Chinese (3PM), Iban (6PM), and Tamil (8PM).

Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, 11 Jalan Kumbang Pasang.

St. Andrew's Anglican Church, Jalan Kumbang Pasang. Sunday services in English (liturgical at 7:45AM and contemporary at 10AM), Chinese (3PM), Iban (6PM), and Tamil (8PM).

• Bangar
• Kuala Belait — second largest city in Brunei
• Ulu Temburong National Park (see Bangar) has many day tours from BSB from B$125-185:
  • http://www.freme.com/product/ulu-temburong-national-park-day-tour-2/
  • http://www.bruneitourism.com/brunei-atta-12
  • https://bruneiborneo.com/package/bwn-15-ulu-temburong-national-park-day-trip/

• Miri, Malaysia
• Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia (see Kota Kinabalu to Brunei by Land)