Leverburgh

Leverburgh is the main village on South Harris. The main road A859 follows the west coast, running from Tarbert through Seilebost, Borve, Scarista and Northton to Leverburgh, continuing south to Rodel. A narrow lane twisting along the east coast is known as the "Golden Road" for the expense of building it.

Until 1920 the village was called "Obbe" (Gaelic An t-Òb, from the Norse word for a bay), but was then renamed for William Lever, 1st Viscount Leverhulme (1851-1925), the soap tycoon. He'd bought up all of Harris and Lewis and had grand plans for their industrial development, but he had no time for crofting or rural resettlement. On Lewis this caused a great falling out, and he pulled out of investment there. On Harris there were fewer such tensions and he established a fishing port and fish processing works in Leverburgh. The project stalled after his death in 1925, though "Mac Fisheries" continued in business until 1979.

• St Clement's Church, Rodel (3 miles from Leverburgh. Fine church dating from the 15th century.
• Seallam! Visitor Centre, Northton (An Taobh Tuath), HS3 3JA, +44 1859 520258. Apr-Oct M-Sa 10:00-17:00, Nov-Mar W-F 10:00-17:00. Small museum with exhibits on Harris history and wildlife, plus archives for genealogy research. £2.50.
• MacGillivray Centre, Northton. Unmanned exhibition about an ornithologist.
• Luskentyre. is one of the best beaches anywhere on earth, pity the water's freezing. It's reached by a winding little lane that branches off A859 above Loch Fincastle. The island seen a mile to the west is Taransay, normally uninhabited, but there are occasional campers (who need their own boat), and in 2000 it was the location for the BBC series Castaway.

St Clement's Church, Rodel (3 miles from Leverburgh. Fine church dating from the 15th century.

Seallam! Visitor Centre, Northton (An Taobh Tuath), HS3 3JA, +44 1859 520258. Apr-Oct M-Sa 10:00-17:00, Nov-Mar W-F 10:00-17:00. Small museum with exhibits on Harris history and wildlife, plus archives for genealogy research. £2.50.

MacGillivray Centre, Northton. Unmanned exhibition about an ornithologist.

Luskentyre. is one of the best beaches anywhere on earth, pity the water's freezing. It's reached by a winding little lane that branches off A859 above Loch Fincastle. The island seen a mile to the west is Taransay, normally uninhabited, but there are occasional campers (who need their own boat), and in 2000 it was the location for the BBC series Castaway.

• Drive or cycle the Golden Road, the switchback lane along the east coast from Rodel up to Tarbert.
• Golf, Scarista, +44 1859 550226. The Isle Of Harris Golf Course is 9 holes amidst glorious scenery. Open M-Sa and you can often just turn up and play, but Tues & Sat in summer may be booked out to tournaments, check the club fixture list. £25 per day, £15 for 9 holes.
• Visit St Kilda. Leverburgh is the closest port for day trips, in summer but only in calm weather. Booking essential: you need to make yourself available for a two day slot and the boats sail on the first suitable day of that slot. It's a 3 hour crossing, giving you 4-5 hours ashore on Hirta the main island, plus a circuit (non-landing) of the other islands, eg Boreray with its sea stacks and swirling birds. No dogs, check the operators' websites for other rules eg minimum age, and take your own packed lunch. Operators are:
  • Sea Harris, 5 Ferry Rd, +44 7760216555. Day trips to St Kilda May-Sept, leaving Leverburgh at 08:00 and returning for 19:00. Adult £205.
  • Kilda Cruises, +44 1859 502060. 08:00-19:30. Based in Tarbert but sailing from Leverburgh to St Kilda mid-April to Sept, leaving at 07:30 and returning for 19:30. Adult £225.

Drive or cycle the Golden Road, the switchback lane along the east coast from Rodel up to Tarbert.

Golf, Scarista, +44 1859 550226. The Isle Of Harris Golf Course is 9 holes amidst glorious scenery. Open M-Sa and you can often just turn up and play, but Tues & Sat in summer may be booked out to tournaments, check the club fixture list. £25 per day, £15 for 9 holes.

Visit [[St Kilda]]. Leverburgh is the closest port for day trips, in summer but only in calm weather. Booking essential: you need to make yourself available for a two day slot and the boats sail on the first suitable day of that slot. It's a 3 hour crossing, giving you 4-5 hours ashore on Hirta the main island, plus a circuit (non-landing) of the other islands, eg Boreray with its sea stacks and swirling birds. No dogs, check the operators' websites for other rules eg minimum age, and take your own packed lunch. Operators are:

• Sea Harris, 5 Ferry Rd, +44 7760216555. Day trips to St Kilda May-Sept, leaving Leverburgh at 08:00 and returning for 19:00. Adult £205.
• Kilda Cruises, +44 1859 502060. 08:00-19:30. Based in Tarbert but sailing from Leverburgh to St Kilda mid-April to Sept, leaving at 07:30 and returning for 19:30. Adult £225.

Visit [[St Kilda]]. Leverburgh is the closest port for day trips, in summer but only in calm weather. Booking essential: you need to make yourself available for a two day slot and the boats sail on the first suitable day of that slot. It's a 3 hour crossing, giving you 4-5 hours ashore on Hirta the main island, plus a circuit (non-landing) of the other islands, eg Boreray with its sea stacks and swirling birds. No dogs, check the operators' websites for other rules eg minimum age, and take your own packed lunch. Operators are:

• Sea Harris, 5 Ferry Rd, +44 7760216555. Day trips to St Kilda May-Sept, leaving Leverburgh at 08:00 and returning for 19:00. Adult £205.
• Kilda Cruises, +44 1859 502060. 08:00-19:30. Based in Tarbert but sailing from Leverburgh to St Kilda mid-April to Sept, leaving at 07:30 and returning for 19:30. Adult £225.

• Harris Community Shop, An Clachan HS5 3TS (on A859. M-Th 09:00-18:00, F Sa 09:00-19:00. Community-owned co-op, selling groceries including local specialities, newspapers (arriving mid-afternoon), fishing rods and flies, DIY supplies and crafts. Filling station 24 hours.

Harris Community Shop, An Clachan HS5 3TS (on A859. M-Th 09:00-18:00, F Sa 09:00-19:00. Community-owned co-op, selling groceries including local specialities, newspapers (arriving mid-afternoon), fishing rods and flies, DIY supplies and crafts. Filling station 24 hours.

• The Anchorage, Ferry Pier HS5 3UB, +44 1859 520225. M-Sa 12:00-21:00, bar till 23:00. Does lunches and evening meals, dogs welcome, booking advisable for summer evenings.
• Butty Bus, Pier Rd HS5 3UF (near the ferry terminal, +44 7899 786574. M-Th 07:30-15:00, F Sa 07:30-15:00 & 17:00-19:30. Friendly cafe next to ferry pier.
• Croft 36, 36 Northton, HS3 3JA (on Northton lane near Seallam! Centre, +44 1859 520779. M-Sa 11:00-19:30. Bakery & takeaway shack does hot pies, pastries and soup. Fillings include local seafood, rabbit, mutton and venison, with some gluten-free or vegetarian.
• Temple Café, Northton HS3 3JA, +44 7876 340416. Tu-Su 10:30-17:00. Small cafe in a great setting, one of the few places open on Sunday. New owners from June 2019.
• Skoon Art Cafe, 4 Geocrab, Isle of Harris HS3 3HB (on back road between Tarbert and Rodel, +44 1859 530268. Mar-Oct Tu-Sa 10:00-16:00. It's meant to be an art gallery, but visitor reviews suggest the coffee & brownies are selling better than the oils.

The Anchorage, Ferry Pier HS5 3UB, +44 1859 520225. M-Sa 12:00-21:00, bar till 23:00. Does lunches and evening meals, dogs welcome, booking advisable for summer evenings.

Butty Bus, Pier Rd HS5 3UF (near the ferry terminal, +44 7899 786574. M-Th 07:30-15:00, F Sa 07:30-15:00 & 17:00-19:30. Friendly cafe next to ferry pier.

Croft 36, 36 Northton, HS3 3JA (on Northton lane near Seallam! Centre, +44 1859 520779. M-Sa 11:00-19:30. Bakery & takeaway shack does hot pies, pastries and soup. Fillings include local seafood, rabbit, mutton and venison, with some gluten-free or vegetarian.

Temple Café, Northton HS3 3JA, +44 7876 340416. Tu-Su 10:30-17:00. Small cafe in a great setting, one of the few places open on Sunday. New owners from June 2019.

Skoon Art Cafe, 4 Geocrab, Isle of Harris HS3 3HB (on back road between Tarbert and Rodel, +44 1859 530268. Mar-Oct Tu-Sa 10:00-16:00. It's meant to be an art gallery, but visitor reviews suggest the coffee & brownies are selling better than the oils.

As the Rodel hotel has closed the nearest bars are in Tarbert.

• Cross the Sound of Harris to Berneray, which is connected by road to the Uists.
• Go north to Tarbert and on into Lewis.