Isle of Lismore

Lismore is an island ten miles north of Oban in the sea inlet of Loch Linnhe. It's one of the Inner Hebrides islands, but little developed for tourism, and overlooked by visitors who sail by on the ferries. Lismore in Gaelic means "big garden" and it's low-lying, fertile and often lashed with rain. Unusually for these parts, it's a limestone ridge, the perfect antidote to peat bogs and midges. It was quarried in the 19th & early 20th C for lime but this industry has gone.

• Saint Moluag's Cathedral. St Moluag (510-592), a contemporary of St Columba, founded a monastery on the island. In medieval times this small church was the cathedral for the scattered diocese of Argyll, since it was easier then to get about by sea than by land. Note the doorways, sedilia (priests' seats), piscina (area for washing sacred vessels) and medieval grave slabs. It's nowadays a C of S parish church and no longer a cathedral; the stain glass windows are modern.
• Ionad Naomh Moluag, +44 1631 760030. Apr-Oct daily 11:00-16:00. Small museum of island life, volunteer-run so the opening hours are just a statement of good intentions. With cafe.
• Tirefour Broch. is an Iron Age structure on the east coat by Clachan.
• Castle Coeffin, Clachan PA 34 5UL (grid ref NM853437. 24 hours. Scenic but scrappy ruins of a castle built in the 13th C over a Viking fortress - Caifen was a Danish princess. It's an oblong tower within a bailey of later date. The even scrappier ruins to the northeast are the Norse "Castle Rachal". Free.
• Achanduin Castle. is the ruin of a 13th C fortress. Not much left of it, you come for the walk and the views.
• Bernera is the tidal island beyond Achanduin Castle. See the remains of its medieval chapel and burial ground, limestone cliffs, seals and bird life.
• Eilean Musdile. is the islet with the Stevenson lighthouse off the south tip of Lismore. Best view of it is from the ferry from Oban to Lismore; the ferry to Craignure on Mull also passes nearby.

Saint Moluag's Cathedral. St Moluag (510-592), a contemporary of St Columba, founded a monastery on the island. In medieval times this small church was the cathedral for the scattered diocese of Argyll, since it was easier then to get about by sea than by land. Note the doorways, sedilia (priests' seats), piscina (area for washing sacred vessels) and medieval grave slabs. It's nowadays a C of S parish church and no longer a cathedral; the stain glass windows are modern.

Ionad Naomh Moluag, +44 1631 760030. Apr-Oct daily 11:00-16:00. Small museum of island life, volunteer-run so the opening hours are just a statement of good intentions. With cafe.

Tirefour Broch. is an Iron Age structure on the east coat by Clachan.

Castle Coeffin, Clachan PA 34 5UL (grid ref NM853437. 24 hours. Scenic but scrappy ruins of a castle built in the 13th C over a Viking fortress - Caifen was a Danish princess. It's an oblong tower within a bailey of later date. The even scrappier ruins to the northeast are the Norse "Castle Rachal". Free.

Achanduin Castle. is the ruin of a 13th C fortress. Not much left of it, you come for the walk and the views.

Bernera is the tidal island beyond Achanduin Castle. See the remains of its medieval chapel and burial ground, limestone cliffs, seals and bird life.

Eilean Musdile. is the islet with the Stevenson lighthouse off the south tip of Lismore. Best view of it is from the ferry from Oban to Lismore; the ferry to Craignure on Mull also passes nearby.

• Walk Highlands suggest several hikes, many can be done as day trips from the ferry piers.

The Post Office and general store is open M-F 09:00-17:00 and Sa 09:00-13:00.

• Stock up on food essentials at the Post Office, which has meats, cheese, bread, beverages and snacks.
• Liosbeag Cafe is at the Heritage Centre (Ionad Naomh Moluag), same hours.

Liosbeag Cafe is at the Heritage Centre (Ionad Naomh Moluag), same hours.

Lismore has no mains water, the houses and farms all draw from bore holes. Bring your own refreshments or stop by one of the small shops. The Post Office sells bottled drinks.

You'll have enough signal to make a call by O2, Vodafone, Three and EE, but Wifi / data speed is poor. Your accommodation may have better connections.

• Back to Oban for all routes by car or public transport.
• Mull and the Ardnamurchan Peninsula are just five miles west, but you have to return to Oban and take a ferry or wind around Loch Linnhe by road to reach them.