Mar Lodj is a rural community in Central Senegal. It belongs to the district of Fimela, in the Fatick administrative region.
Mar Lodj is the name of an island in the Saloum delta, as well as the largest village on the island. Peacefully protected near the mouth of the Sine-Saloum delta, half a day’s drive and a short pirogue ride from the commotion and noise of Dakar, the island of Mar Lodj is a calm and refreshing sanctuary. The local population, the perennially friendly and laidback Sérères, live in the island’s three villages of Mar Lodj, Mar Soulou, and Mar Fafaco, as well as on the quaint island-within-an-island of Mar Wandié. Mar Lodj, the largest, has a population of about 2000 and is the only village on the island to be predominantly Catholic. Some ten campements and lodges spread along the island’s beaches provide a range of accommodations.
The travel season in Mar Lodj corresponds with the dry season, beginning in mid-October and continuing to early-June. This time of year is characterized by relatively little rainfall, lower humidity and milder temperatures. Temperatures range in the mid to high seventies. June through October constitute the wet season and see increased rainfall and rising temperatures, typically peaking in August and September.
The best way to explore and learn about the Sérères of Mar Lodj is from one of the local guides who, unfortunately at the time of writing, aren’t very organized or visible. Your campement should be able to put you in touch with one, or the guides are easy to find at the artisan ateliers where they sell their sand paintings in the village. Any tour of the village of Mar Lodj will include a visit to:
- the modern Catholic church, with architecture inspired by the shape of a traditional round hut, and its pretty black Madonna statue
- the Mosque, towering over the town’s central square
- the Arbres Sacres three different intertwined trees believed to represent the peaceful coexistence of Mar Lodj’s three religions
- the TamTam telephonique (telephone drum), which was traditionally used to communicate important news (weddings, deaths, emergencies) to other villages on the island
- the village’s central square, which houses a small daily market and occasional big events like village meetings or the annual wrestling competitions (see below)
- the Women’s Artisanal Market, on the salt-flat between the village and the campements, providing a venue to buy all your souvenirs for friends back home (be prepared to chat and bargain!) Ask to visit the boulangerie, too, where Mbaye uses a giant mud oven to make traditional village bread (it’s delicious and your campement will probably serve it!)
Fishing Mar Lodj and the Sine-Saloum delta are famous for the incredible fishing available among the mangrove-lined channels. Fish from the banks or hire a pirogue to take you out into the hidden mangrove channels. Many campements also arrange kayak trips, charette or horse-back tours, nature walks, etc.
The national currency of Senegal is the CFA Franc. Along with the CFA, some locals also accept Euros. One Euro is permanently fixed at 650CFA, making the conversion simple. The Grouppe Sassang is an NGO-initiated collection of three small businesses working to empower women in Mar Lodj by creating a small source of revenue in a sustainable manner. MarTex offers beautiful hand-designed and hand-dyed clothing and cloths. Mar Delices offers artisanally produced honey and locally-sourced fruit juices and jams. MarFoods offers whole chickens and dried or pickled shellfish items. Individual artisans-cum-guides are also popular in Mar Lodj. A number of workshop-huts house their creative sand-art tableaux throughout the village. These artists create scenes of typical Mar Lodj imagery using un-dyed sand with glue made from baobab sap, both found naturally on the island. The Mar Lodj women's artisanal market is located in an enclosure on the salt flat between the village and the river. Some hotels also offer their own souvenir shops. Souvenirs available for sale include handmade cloth dolls; wooden crafts; bead necklaces or other jewelry .
For those looking for a good meal while on Mar Lodj, each campement has its own restaurant, usually serving up a variation of local fare. Going beyond your own accommodations’ restaurant can add a little variety to your trip. Most places prepare a set meal for the day but will try to accommodate dinners’ preferences when possible. Just be sure to call beforehand to check availability as most campements are only staffed and supplied if they are expecting clients (many products have to be transported from the main land in advance). Another option is the free-standing restaurant Black + White Chez Marie, located just off the salt flat to the north of the Women’s Antiquary Market. The advice to call ahead stands for this place as well; the restaurant is rarely open during the off-season or when no clients are expected.
All hotel restaurants sell a limited selection of wine, beer and spirits. A few general shops do as well.
Thomas Amadou Alpha Ba, owner of the campement Le Limboko, is also the vice president of the Association for the Promotion of Tourism in the Sine-Saloum Region and an excellent source of information for visitors, whether at his campement or another. +221 77 429 9908
Leaving Mar Lodj via Public Transport Mini-buses leave Ndangane-Sambou every morning for Dakar . You will have to be flexible on the exact departure time as cars leave when they fill up. For destinations other than Dakar, get off at the Mbour garage and continue your travel from there. Make sure to arrange an early pirogue departure from your campement to arrive in Ndangane-Sambou to catch the morning buses. Heading to Other Parts of the Sine Saloum Visits to other parts of the Sine Saloum Delta - including many of its beautiful uninhabited islands (such as Pointe de Sangomar or Isle aux Oiseaux) and the villages further upriver – can be arranged through your accommodations provider. Many pirogues leave for tours from Ndangane-Campement, but will pass through Mar Lodj if arranged by your campement.