Mariehamn

Finland

Arriving at Mariehamn harbour

Mariehamn is the capital, and, with 11,000 citizens, the only town of the Åland islands. The town's Finnish name, Maarianhamina, is rarely used, as the whole population speaks Swedish.

A youthful town, Mariehamn was founded in 1861 while Åland and Finland formed part of the mighty Russian Empire. Maria, consort of Tsar Alexander II of Russia, gave the town her name.

Mariehamn grew up round the farming village of Övernäs, situated on a peninsula. The harbour's built-in sheltered bays came to be of great importance. The streets of Mariehamn are wide and straight. Housing sites were large from the beginning, but today they have been divided to provide space for several houses. A distinctive feature is the Esplanade, an avenue of lime (linden) trees stretching from west to east, from harbour to harbour.

The Russian heritage is mainly responsible for the layout of the town. It follows the same basic guidelines as can be found in many Russian cities, with large avenues with promenades in the middle of the street. Apart from that, the only Russian signs left from that era is the multitude of tombstones in the graveyards in Åland.

During the Russian times seafaring expanded from shipping local goods to Stockholm to global trade, continuing after the independence. Between the world wars Gustaf Erikson got famous by gradually buying most of the big sailing ships still left in the world, and successfully operating them. One of the former German P-liners acquired by him, Pommern, has become a symbol of Mariehamn. Many of the beautiful wooden houses were built by shipowners. Shipping still contributes considerably to the wealth of the town.

Exhibits at the Åland Maritime Museum

  • Pommern, Västerhamn. Accessible May–September. Pommern (earlier name Mneme) is a windjammer turned into a museum ship, kept in original shape. She is a four masted barque built at J. Reid & Co shipyard in Glasgow in 1903. She soon became one of the Flying P-Liners, the famous sailing ships of the German shipping company F. Laeisz. Later she belonged to Gustaf Erikson of Åland, who used her (and the rest of his windjammers) to carry grain from the Spencer Gulf area in Australia to harbours in England or Ireland until the outbreak of World War II. She was thus one of the last cargo-carrying large sailing ships. In 2018-19, Pommern was placed into a dock, to lessen stress on her hull. Tickets to go aboard her are sold at the nearby Åland Maritime Museum.
  • The Åland Maritime Museum, Hamngatan 2 (above Västerhamn marina. This museum preserves memories of the sailing ships, one of its exhibits being the red-brown captain’s saloon from the famous four-masted barque Herzogin Cecilie, originally German, later one of Gustaf Erikson’s ships. She ran aground off the coast of England in 1936 and before she sank her saloon was salvaged and brought to Åland. You can see all sorts of ship paraphernalia from sextants to sails, souvenirs sailors brought home from their travels and learn about e.g. shipbuilding and the 19th century seaman's hotel in Mariehamn and try out being a captain in the museum's ship simulator. Also English literature for sale. €10/6.
  • Maritime quarter, Eastern harbour. Boat building traditions are kept alive at the Maritime Quarter in the eastern Harbour. Among the red sheds there is a boatyard and a smithy as well as a boat and shipbuilding museum. Several small ships have been built there, including the galeas Albanus and the schooner Linden.
  • Åland Museum and Åland Art Museum, Storagatan 1, +358 18 254-26. Sept–Apr: Tu–Su 11:00–17:00, Th 11:00–20:00; May–Aug daily 10:00–17:00. The Åland Museum exhibits the history of Åland from prehistoric times up to the present day. The Åland Art Museum displays pictures by both old and young Åland artists. The Mariehamn Gallery model of Mariehamn in the 1920s with its wooden houses has been moved to a separate location. €8/5/5 (children: 7–17); free first Th monthly, 18.5 and 9.6.

Pommern, Västerhamn. Accessible May–September. Pommern (earlier name Mneme) is a windjammer turned into a museum ship, kept in original shape. She is a four masted barque built at J. Reid & Co shipyard in Glasgow in 1903. She soon became one of the Flying P-Liners, the famous sailing ships of the German shipping company F. Laeisz. Later she belonged to Gustaf Erikson of Åland, who used her (and the rest of his windjammers) to carry grain from the Spencer Gulf area in Australia to harbours in England or Ireland until the outbreak of World War II. She was thus one of the last cargo-carrying large sailing ships. In 2018-19, Pommern was placed into a dock, to lessen stress on her hull. Tickets to go aboard her are sold at the nearby Åland Maritime Museum.

The Åland Maritime Museum, Hamngatan 2 (above Västerhamn marina. This museum preserves memories of the sailing ships, one of its exhibits being the red-brown captain’s saloon from the famous four-masted barque Herzogin Cecilie, originally German, later one of Gustaf Erikson’s ships. She ran aground off the coast of England in 1936 and before she sank her saloon was salvaged and brought to Åland. You can see all sorts of ship paraphernalia from sextants to sails, souvenirs sailors brought home from their travels and learn about e.g. shipbuilding and the 19th century seaman's hotel in Mariehamn and try out being a captain in the museum's ship simulator. Also English literature for sale. €10/6.

Maritime quarter, Eastern harbour. Boat building traditions are kept alive at the Maritime Quarter in the eastern Harbour. Among the red sheds there is a boatyard and a smithy as well as a boat and shipbuilding museum. Several small ships have been built there, including the galeas Albanus and the schooner Linden.

Åland Museum and Åland Art Museum, Storagatan 1, +358 18 254-26. Sept–Apr: Tu–Su 11:00–17:00, Th 11:00–20:00; May–Aug daily 10:00–17:00. The Åland Museum exhibits the history of Åland from prehistoric times up to the present day. The Åland Art Museum displays pictures by both old and young Åland artists. The Mariehamn Gallery model of Mariehamn in the 1920s with its wooden houses has been moved to a separate location. €8/5/5 (children: 7–17); free first Th monthly, 18.5 and 9.6.

  • Lilla holmen. Park island with peacocks, rabbits etc. Free.
  • Gröna udden beach. Free.
  • Mariebad. M 12–22, Tu–F 10–22, Sa–Su 10–18. Swimming hall. Also outdoor swimming, water slide, spa facilities etc. €9/5.

Lilla holmen. Park island with peacocks, rabbits etc. Free.

Gröna udden beach. Free.

Mariebad. M 12–22, Tu–F 10–22, Sa–Su 10–18. Swimming hall. Also outdoor swimming, water slide, spa facilities etc. €9/5.

  • The shopping street. is the northern part of Torggatan. Shops usually close at 17:00 or 17:30 on weekdays and at 14:00 on Saturdays. Some close at 20:00 on Thursdays. Most shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but some of them do not accept Visa Electron. ATM's ("OTTO") are scarce. There are some in the city centre, outside the four bank offices along Torggatan. One is situated in Strandnäs, at the Ålandsbanken bank office.
  • Maxinge, Sparvägen 1 (4 km north of downtown. Just outside the city border in Jomala is Maxinge, probably the largest shopping mall on the islands. About 20 different stores and a couple of places to eat and drink.

Most prices are somewhat higher than on the Finnish and Swedish mainland. There is both local produce and what is typically found on either mainland.

The shopping street. is the northern part of Torggatan. Shops usually close at 17:00 or 17:30 on weekdays and at 14:00 on Saturdays. Some close at 20:00 on Thursdays. Most shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but some of them do not accept Visa Electron. ATM's ("OTTO") are scarce. There are some in the city centre, outside the four bank offices along Torggatan. One is situated in Strandnäs, at the Ålandsbanken bank office.

Maxinge, Sparvägen 1 (4 km north of downtown. Just outside the city border in Jomala is Maxinge, probably the largest shopping mall on the islands. About 20 different stores and a couple of places to eat and drink.

  • Restaurant Pommern. Arranged with ship's fittings. The menu is delicious and some items are quite cheap.
  • Restaurang Sittkoffska Gården, Torggatan 13 (Sittkoffska Gallerian, +358 18 17612. M–F 10:00–20:00, food from 11:00, Su closed. Food largely from local ingredients, at least some dishes with an unorthodox touch.
  • Marie Bar, Köpmansgatan 1 (next to the bus station. Mo-Sa 07:00-16:00. Cozy corner café with a cool retro-looking neon sign. Fresh sandwiches, bakeries, coffee and tea.

Restaurant Pommern. Arranged with ship's fittings. The menu is delicious and some items are quite cheap.

Restaurang Sittkoffska Gården, Torggatan 13 (Sittkoffska Gallerian, +358 18 17612. M–F 10:00–20:00, food from 11:00, Su closed. Food largely from local ingredients, at least some dishes with an unorthodox touch.

Marie Bar, Köpmansgatan 1 (next to the bus station. Mo-Sa 07:00-16:00. Cozy corner café with a cool retro-looking [[neon sign]]. Fresh sandwiches, bakeries, coffee and tea.

Nightlife in Mariehamn is sparse and revolves around the two restaurants "Dino's" and "Indigo" – although heavily frequented by locals they don't compare well to establishments in larger cities. Between midnight and 02:00 those restaurants close, and almost everybody migrates to the nearby nightclub "Arken". Considering Åland's history (a Swedish archipelago until 1809, then Russian and later Finnish since 1918 – Ålanders speak Swedish, they use some Russian expressions and they drink like Finns) the later hours are dominated by the occasional bar-brawl, heavily intoxicated teens and vomiting. The "Arken" closes at 04:00, and then it's all over.

Mariehamn is the natural starting point for all the other destinations on Åland such as Kastelholm Castle and Bomarsund Fortress ruins in Sund or the Post and Customs museum in Eckerö.