Otok Mljet, in Southern Dalmatia, is one of the larger islands in off the coast of Southern Croatia. Although many people live on the island (mainly in the port of Sobra on the east end), the west end port of Polače holds the entrance to the national park of Mljet. This park includes an inland sea and another small island nested within it, and is a must-see for visitors.
Mljet used to be a Roman possession (indeed, Polače means "palace" and holds some Roman ruins). Over the course of history, the isle traded hands with the rest of the Balkans (to the Ottomans, the Austro-Hungarians, etc.) It was promised to Italy at one point in the early 20th century. Once the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes was declared, the island became part of that country.
Ancient Greeks called the island "Melita", or "honey," which over the centuries evolved to become the Slavic name, Mljet.
Over 72% of the island of 1000 km² (388 sq mi) is forest. The island's geological structure consists of limestone and dolomite forming ridges, crests and slopes. A few depressions on the island of Mljet are below sea level and are known as blatine ("mud-lakes") or slatine ("salt-lakes"). During the rain seasons all blatine are filled with water, and they turn to brackish during dry seasons.
The climate is Mediterranean; an average air temperature in January is 9°C (48°F) and in July about 24°C (75°F).
There is an entrance fee of 125 kn per person to enter the Mljet National Park. If you are joining an excursion organised by a travel agency to Mljet, it may not include this entrance fee, so make sure you check before booking.
- Mljet National Park. The two lakes (jezera) and the monastery on the island in the middle of the large lake (veliki jezera). Boats leave for the monastery every hour or so, check the timetables within the national park. The monastery was a hotel until it was damaged in 1991 and now houses a cute restaurant called Melita. 90 kn.
- Saplunara beaches. There are three sandy beaches within Saplunara, starting with the bay itself. The bay is slightly overlooked, but as you work through, you eventually got to Blace beach which is 800 m (1/2 mile) long and secluded among stones of Mljet southern shores. This hidden bay and beach is surrounded by pine trees, faces South and looks like a lagoon. The entrance from the sea to Blace beach is only 8 metres wide so the sea water inside the lagoon gets very warm and is possible to swim here even at the times when sea water outside is still cold and not suitable for swimming. Because of it's isolated location, Blace Beach and Bay is popular among naturist and nudists too. Out of season, a lot of debris collects on the beach and is not cleaned making it significantly less appealing.
- Abandoned military bunker. On Mljet's western end there is a military bunker driven into the rocky terrain that features an elaborate underground passage formerly used by the military where today only spiders and bats reside. Several stairways lead outside to artillery plattforms facing the sea towards the north. While the many rooms located underground now are empty you can still spot a German 8.8 cm Flak artillery from WW II on one of the plattforms. Bring a flash light and enter on your own risk!
Mljet National Park. The two lakes (jezera) and the monastery on the island in the middle of the large lake (veliki jezera). Boats leave for the monastery every hour or so, check the timetables within the national park. The monastery was a hotel until it was damaged in 1991 and now houses a cute restaurant called Melita. 90 kn.
Saplunara beaches. There are three sandy beaches within Saplunara, starting with the bay itself. The bay is slightly overlooked, but as you work through, you eventually got to Blace beach which is 800 m (1/2 mile) long and secluded among stones of Mljet southern shores. This hidden bay and beach is surrounded by pine trees, faces South and looks like a lagoon. The entrance from the sea to Blace beach is only 8 metres wide so the sea water inside the lagoon gets very warm and is possible to swim here even at the times when sea water outside is still cold and not suitable for swimming. Because of it's isolated location, Blace Beach and Bay is popular among naturist and nudists too. Out of season, a lot of debris collects on the beach and is not cleaned making it significantly less appealing.
Abandoned military bunker. On Mljet's western end there is a military bunker driven into the rocky terrain that features an elaborate underground passage formerly used by the military where today only spiders and bats reside. Several stairways lead outside to artillery plattforms facing the sea towards the north. While the many rooms located underground now are empty you can still spot a German 8.8 cm Flak artillery from WW II on one of the plattforms. Bring a flash light and enter on your own risk!
Swim around, snorkel and try to find the large mussels (about 60 cm (2 feet) long) in the smaller lake (malo jezero). Rent a mountain bike and ride around the big lake (veliko jezero) and small lake (malo jezero) which are connected to each other.
- Rappel or Swim to Odysseus/Ulyssey's Cave, Odysseus's cave sits under the village of Babino Polje. (Pull over on the road parallel to Babino Polje then it's a 20-minute walk towards the south coast from there.. A large egg-shaped cave in the rocky coastline, accessed by a 30-metre tunnel used as a harbour by local fishermen. Legend has it that Odysseus found his shelter here after surviving a shipwreck, hence the name. He supposedly was shipwrecked here and due to the beauty of the island's nature and his love for the nymph Calipso, Odysseus stayed on the island for 7 years. When the sun gets to the highest point, the water illuminates in a fantastic way. There's also some gravity-defying, quite amusing graffiti around the rocks. There are two entrances: one from the seaside (swimming) and the other one from on high (rappelling). As you walk along the path towards the cave, look out for the cute road sign painting on the rocks! Once you're near the cave, it's a natural beauty and popular for rappelling. Free.
- Follow the hiking trail up to Veliki Grad, the highest mountain of Mljet (~500 m). The trail starts in Babino Polje.
- There are daily diving tours in Pomena.
Rappel or Swim to Odysseus/Ulyssey's Cave, Odysseus's cave sits under the village of Babino Polje. (Pull over on the road parallel to Babino Polje then it's a 20-minute walk towards the south coast from there.. A large egg-shaped cave in the rocky coastline, accessed by a 30-metre tunnel used as a harbour by local fishermen. Legend has it that Odysseus found his shelter here after surviving a shipwreck, hence the name. He supposedly was shipwrecked here and due to the beauty of the island's nature and his love for the nymph Calipso, Odysseus stayed on the island for 7 years. When the sun gets to the highest point, the water illuminates in a fantastic way. There's also some gravity-defying, quite amusing graffiti around the rocks. There are two entrances: one from the seaside (swimming) and the other one from on high (rappelling). As you walk along the path towards the cave, look out for the cute road sign painting on the rocks! Once you're near the cave, it's a natural beauty and popular for rappelling. Free.
There are several places to eat out in Pomena, around the harbour. Most appear to cater to the yachting fraternity and specialise in very fresh fish; live seafood are kept in tanks next to each restaurant. There's also a great restaurant between the harbour and the hotel. It looks like it's a private house but with a large barbecue area built on, and it does excellent barbecued fish. Besides that, there are several restaurants in villages Polače, Soline and in Babine kuće. There is also restaurant on the island of St. Mary.
There's not a lot of nightlife in Pomena; the hotel has an inside bar with a cheesy band, and an outside shack that sells drink. It's best for a quiet getaway rather than a party!
- Vila Mungos, Sobra 35, +38520745224.
Vila Mungos, Sobra 35, +38520745224.
On summer days speed boat goes from the port of Sobra to Dubrovnik every day at 06:15 (Tuesday and Thursday at 06:00) and at 17:35. From port of Polače speed boat goes every day at 16:55.
From Sobra car ferry goes every day to Prapratno (peninsula Pelješac) at 06:00, 09:00 and at 12:00, 16:00, 19:00 (on Sunday and holidays it goes at 10:00 not at 09:00).
With speed boat you can also go to island Korčula from Polače and Sobra on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and with car ferry from Sobra on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. There is speed boat from Sobra and Polače to island Lastovo on Tuesday and Thursday.
To Split you can go from Sobra with car ferry on Saturday.