Mostar

Bosnia_and_Herzegovina

Old town of Mostar

Mostar is a city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, formerly one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country, and today suffering geographical division of ethnic groups. The city was the most heavily bombed of any Bosnian city during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina following the breakup of Yugoslavia. At the beginning of the war, air strikes destroyed many important buildings and structures, including the cultural and spiritual icon: The Old Bridge (Stari Most), which is a .

Mostar has been most famous for this beautiful historic Ottoman-style bridge, which spanned the Neretva river in what is considered the historic center of the city. Through combined efforts with the international community, rebuilding of The Old Bridge was completed in 2004, almost 11 years after its destruction, using some of its original pieces recovered from the Neretva river. A significant portion of the city has been rebuilt and visitors might be surprised to see that this formerly war-torn city is a lively and beautiful destination once again, particularly the area within and around the old town. However, many visible signs of Mostar's troubled recent history remain.

The old town in Mostar A smaller (Crooked) bridge in Mostar's old town

  • The Old Bridge. 24/7. Originally built by the Turks in 1566, it was destroyed in 1993, but rebuilt in 2004. The bridge is the highlight of Mostar and is a . The bridge is 21 m high and you will frequently see members of the Mostar Diving Club dive off the bridge. It is customary to give the divers a few marks after they make the jump. Free.
  • Old Bridge Museum. Includes exhibits on the history of the bridge, a panoramic view from the top, and entrance into the excavations below, along with a video detailing the reconstruction of the bridge. It opened in 2006, commemorating the second anniversary of the bridge's reconstruction. 5 BAM.

Muslibegovića House

  • Muslibegovića House. Open for visitors 15 April – 15 October from 10:00-18:00. Constructed 300 years ago, it is considered the most beautiful house from Ottoman period in the Balkans. The house is comprised of separate quarters for women (women’s courtyard – haremluk), and men (men’s courtyard – selamluk). Unlike earlier architectural styles, this house resembled a four-storey house built around the centre. Double-arched entrance with the central pillar reveals Mediterranean influence. The house preserved authentic monumental structure, items and documents providing an insight into the life of a wealthy bey family from the time. In addition to museum exhibition, visitors are invited to take traditional beverages or cookies, or spend a night in this authentic surrounding. 4 BAM.
  • Museum of Herzegovina. Open 08:00-16:00... Has a small collection of photographs from various phases of Mostar history, including a small exhibit on a native son who was Prime Minister of Yugoslavia for 6 years. Also shows an excellent video on the recent history of the Old Bridge. 5 BAM.
  • Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, Mala Tepa 16. Small but simply pretty Ottoman mosque built in 1618, destroyed during the war but rebuilt with Turkish financial support. Climb the minaret to see a great view over the town. Ascending the minaret is not recommended to those with claustrophobia, but the 192 step climb rewards with a fantastic view on the Old Bridge. Entry: BAM 6, with minaret access: BAM 12.
  • Karađoz Bey Mosque. Ottoman mosque built in 1557; central mosque of Mostar. Entry: BAM3, with minaret access: BAM5.
  • Cemetery. A park turned into a cemetery in 1993 when the dead needed a place to be buried and other cemeteries were inaccessible due to the war.
  • Ottoman house, Bišćevića Street. An Ottoman house, where you only can see the few rooms in upstairs. 4 BAM.

The Old Bridge. 24/7. Originally built by the Turks in 1566, it was destroyed in 1993, but rebuilt in 2004. The bridge is the highlight of Mostar and is a . The bridge is 21 m high and you will frequently see members of the Mostar Diving Club dive off the bridge. It is customary to give the divers a few marks after they make the jump. Free.

Old Bridge Museum. Includes exhibits on the history of the bridge, a panoramic view from the top, and entrance into the excavations below, along with a video detailing the reconstruction of the bridge. It opened in 2006, commemorating the second anniversary of the bridge's reconstruction. 5 BAM.

Muslibegovića House. Open for visitors 15 April – 15 October from 10:00-18:00. Constructed 300 years ago, it is considered the most beautiful house from Ottoman period in the Balkans. The house is comprised of separate quarters for women (women’s courtyard – haremluk), and men (men’s courtyard – selamluk). Unlike earlier architectural styles, this house resembled a four-storey house built around the centre. Double-arched entrance with the central pillar reveals Mediterranean influence. The house preserved authentic monumental structure, items and documents providing an insight into the life of a wealthy bey family from the time. In addition to museum exhibition, visitors are invited to take traditional beverages or cookies, or spend a night in this authentic surrounding. 4 BAM.

Museum of Herzegovina. Open 08:00-16:00... Has a small collection of photographs from various phases of Mostar history, including a small exhibit on a native son who was Prime Minister of Yugoslavia for 6 years. Also shows an excellent video on the recent history of the Old Bridge. 5 BAM.

Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, Mala Tepa 16. Small but simply pretty Ottoman mosque built in 1618, destroyed during the war but rebuilt with Turkish financial support. Climb the minaret to see a great view over the town. Ascending the minaret is not recommended to those with claustrophobia, but the 192 step climb rewards with a fantastic view on the Old Bridge. Entry: BAM 6, with minaret access: BAM 12.

Karađoz Bey Mosque. Ottoman mosque built in 1557; central mosque of Mostar. Entry: BAM3, with minaret access: BAM5.

Cemetery. A park turned into a cemetery in 1993 when the dead needed a place to be buried and other cemeteries were inaccessible due to the war.

Ottoman house, Bišćevića Street. An Ottoman house, where you only can see the few rooms in upstairs. 4 BAM.

  • Watch locals dive off the Old Bridge. Members of the Mostar Diving Club will dive off the bridge into the emerald green waters, but first they will try to collect some money from tourists. Do not attempt this yourself. The waters of river are at a constant 12°C, and going suddenly from 30°C to 12°C can cause a heart attack among even the fittest. The young local men diving would hose themselves down first in order to lower their body temperature before diving. The best place to watch this is below Old Bridge on shore of Neretva river.
  • Walk Along the Former Front-line, on Bulevar Revolucije. Here, in 1993 the city was divided between Croats on the West and Bosniaks on the Eastern side. It is a surreal and sobering experience to see the bombed out buildings which still stand in this area only 5m from the division.
  • Drink Bosnian coffee. Don't let anyone tell you that Bosnian coffee is the same as Turkish coffee. Instead, let the good people of Cafe de Alma (Rade Bitange not far from the bridge) educate you about this distinct way of preparing coffee. They are the only roasters in town and they are passionate about preserving this tradition. The café will serve your coffee in a traditional coffee set, plus a Turkish delight to sweeten your drink, all for 1€, 2 marks or 8 Croatian kunas. Before you drink your coffee, the staff will explain to you how it is prepared and how best to enjoy it.

Watch locals dive off the Old Bridge. Members of the Mostar Diving Club will dive off the bridge into the emerald green waters, but first they will try to collect some money from tourists. Do not attempt this yourself. The waters of river are at a constant 12°C, and going suddenly from 30°C to 12°C can cause a heart attack among even the fittest. The young local men diving would hose themselves down first in order to lower their body temperature before diving. The best place to watch this is below Old Bridge on shore of Neretva river.

Walk Along the Former Front-line, on Bulevar Revolucije. Here, in 1993 the city was divided between Croats on the West and Bosniaks on the Eastern side. It is a surreal and sobering experience to see the bombed out buildings which still stand in this area only 5m from the division.

Drink Bosnian coffee. Don't let anyone tell you that Bosnian coffee is the same as Turkish coffee. Instead, let the good people of Cafe de Alma (Rade Bitange not far from the bridge) educate you about this distinct way of preparing coffee. They are the only roasters in town and they are passionate about preserving this tradition. The café will serve your coffee in a traditional coffee set, plus a Turkish delight to sweeten your drink, all for 1€, 2 marks or 8 Croatian kunas. Before you drink your coffee, the staff will explain to you how it is prepared and how best to enjoy it.

The Bosnia and Herzegovina convertible mark (BAM) is pegged to the euro at a rate of €1 = BAM 1.95583. Shops and restaurants will accept euros at a 1:2 rate with the Bosnian convertible mark. Croatian kuna are also widely accepted in Mostar, with 4:1 rate to BAM. Numerous banks have their affiliates and ATM machines across the city. Most restaurants in the Old Town will accept cards and there is ATM machine next to tourist company across Restaurant Kulluk and Europa.

From 2016, fast and free Wi-Fi provided by TGM is available in the vicinity of the Stari Most (Old Bridge).

  • National Restaurant Ćevabdžinica Tima - Irma, Onešćukova bb (Old Town, +387 62 958 539. Ćevapčići: €3.
  • Pizzeria Roma. Great pizza.
  • Aščinica "Saray", Karađozbegova 3, +387 62 322 962. A great place to have cheap and good dishes. Prices range between €2.5 to €6 for a really big meal. From BAM1.

National Restaurant Ćevabdžinica Tima - Irma, Onešćukova bb (Old Town, +387 62 958 539. Ćevapčići: €3.

Pizzeria Roma. Great pizza.

Aščinica "Saray", Karađozbegova 3, +387 62 322 962. A great place to have cheap and good dishes. Prices range between €2.5 to €6 for a really big meal. From BAM1.

  • Aleksa, Ljubića 7 (In front of the hotel Bristol there is the little Ljubića Street. Aleksa is at the end of the street, on the left.. Restaurant and café with a terrace on the river. Is also the seat of Club Aleksa, in the name of the Mostarian poet. Local food, nice atmosphere, many internationals go there.
  • Dado, Trg 1. maja bb, +387 36 552 043. Delicious traditional Bosnian fare. €9 for 3 course meal including wine.
  • Hindin Han, Jusovina bb, +387 36 581 054. Highly recommended, although service is slow.
  • Kulluk, Kurluk 1, with direct view on Stari Most, +387 36 551 716. Great view overlooking the Stari Most.
  • Labirint, Kujundžiluk bb. Great view overlooking the Stari Most. Part of Hotel Bristol.
  • M&M, Mostarskog bataljona 11 (across the Hotel Bristol. Decent rendition of a mixed grill. BAM5-20.

Aleksa, Ljubića 7 (In front of the hotel Bristol there is the little Ljubića Street. Aleksa is at the end of the street, on the left.. Restaurant and café with a terrace on the river. Is also the seat of Club Aleksa, in the name of the Mostarian poet. Local food, nice atmosphere, many internationals go there.

Dado, Trg 1. maja bb, +387 36 552 043. Delicious traditional Bosnian fare. €9 for 3 course meal including wine.

Hindin Han, Jusovina bb, +387 36 581 054. Highly recommended, although service is slow.

Kulluk, Kurluk 1, with direct view on Stari Most, +387 36 551 716. Great view overlooking the Stari Most.

Labirint, Kujundžiluk bb. Great view overlooking the Stari Most. Part of Hotel Bristol.

M&M, Mostarskog bataljona 11 (across the Hotel Bristol. Decent rendition of a mixed grill. BAM5-20.

  • Veranda, +387 36 512 245.

Veranda, +387 36 512 245.

Many of nice lounge bars are located in the Old Town.

  • OKC Abrašević, Alekse Šantića 25. Bar with alternative concerts and other art events, founded on the former front line of the last civil war. On the second story of the bar is a small book-exchange.
  • Ali Baba's Cave. This bar has drinks and hookah; the ambiance is great as the lounge was built directly in a cavern. You won't be able to miss it while walking around the bazaar in Mostar's Old Town, as there is loud music emanating from the entrance.
  • Black Dog Pub, Jusovina 5. Daily, 16:00-midnight. Fantastic pub with a great atmosphere and lots of locals, tucked away beside the Radobolja river. Charming building with a terrace and the odd live band playing. Draft beer 3-5 km.
  • Studio Lounge, M. Balorde (Old town. A cool open-air bar on top of a high building with jazzy/world music and a great view over the town. Sometimes live bands; keep your eyes open to see posters when walking in the Old town.

OKC Abrašević, Alekse Šantića 25. Bar with alternative concerts and other art events, founded on the former front line of the last civil war. On the second story of the bar is a small book-exchange.

Ali Baba's Cave. This bar has drinks and hookah; the ambiance is great as the lounge was built directly in a cavern. You won't be able to miss it while walking around the bazaar in Mostar's Old Town, as there is loud music emanating from the entrance.

Black Dog Pub, Jusovina 5. Daily, 16:00-midnight. Fantastic pub with a great atmosphere and lots of locals, tucked away beside the Radobolja river. Charming building with a terrace and the odd live band playing. Draft beer 3-5 km.

Studio Lounge, M. Balorde (Old town. A cool open-air bar on top of a high building with jazzy/world music and a great view over the town. Sometimes live bands; keep your eyes open to see posters when walking in the Old town.

Ancient Stjepan-grad fort near Mostar

Many of these areas are hard to reach with public transport; however, several agencies such as Herzeg Day Tours offer guided tours.

  • Počitelj. - a well-preserved walled Bosnian town dating back to 1383 that is 35 km south of Mostar. It is reachable by public transport by taking yellow bus #41 towards Čapljina for 45 minutes. Excellent view of the Neretva River. During the Middle Ages, Počitelj was considered the administrative centre and centre of governance of county Dubrava župa. The town has a few small restaurants, coffee shops and street vendors selling local grown fruits and souvenirs.
  • Blagaj. - a village 12 km southeast of Mostar. It is reachable by public bus 10/11/12 in 20-25 minutes (2.1 KM, stops in Španski trg in front of the Gimnazija). The bus may leave from the road opposite the main station, not the bus station itself. At Blagaj, a karst river flows out of a mountain. It's very beautiful, with deep blue water. A historic tekke is built into the cliff. Women must wear headscarves to enter the tekke. Trouts are farmed in the river, and several excellent restaurants serve trout with seating on the riverbank. There is an impressive ancient fort with amazing views on top of the mountain. Follow the road past the village's "old town" and then ask where the trail starts, or just follow the road (keep right) to where the road swerves left (you'll see several ancient gravestones) and you'll find the path on your right. The trail is about 2 km. There are numerous campsites in Blagaj directly adjacent to the Buna river. Velagićevina (the Velagić family House) was built in 17th century and is a beautiful example of the Ottoman residential architecture, a one-story structure with typically extended porches. In the vicinity there are also old flour mills that were in the old days powered by the strong Buna River. There are two guesthouses including Ottoman Villa Velagomed Hotel .
  • Međugorje., 25 km from Mostar, is popular among pilgrims due to an alleged apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary to youths in the town. Buses depart from the bus station every few hours.
  • Stolac. - an old Ottoman town with the medieval cemetery of Radimlja (Nekropola Radimlja), the Illyrian site of Daorson and the palaeolithic cave painting at the Badanj Cave (Pećina Badanj).
  • Kravica. Waterfall gorge, 25 km north of Mostar, is popular for outdoor sports such as biking, hiking, canyoning, and climbing. The Drežanka River is a tributary of the Neretva, and the two rivers join in an artificial hydropower lake. Take a bus in the direction of Drežnica - there are buses which go all the way to the end of the gorge, Gornja Drežnica. Or take the train in the direction of Sarajevo and get off at train stop Drežnica, approx. 30 min. There are several camp sites and basic accommodation, although you will need your own sporting equipment.

Počitelj. - a well-preserved walled Bosnian town dating back to 1383 that is 35 km south of Mostar. It is reachable by public transport by taking yellow bus #41 towards Čapljina for 45 minutes. Excellent view of the Neretva River. During the Middle Ages, Počitelj was considered the administrative centre and centre of governance of county Dubrava župa. The town has a few small restaurants, coffee shops and street vendors selling local grown fruits and souvenirs.

Blagaj. - a village 12 km southeast of Mostar. It is reachable by public bus 10/11/12 in 20-25 minutes (2.1 KM, stops in Španski trg in front of the Gimnazija). The bus may leave from the road opposite the main station, not the bus station itself. At Blagaj, a karst river flows out of a mountain. It's very beautiful, with deep blue water. A historic tekke is built into the cliff. Women must wear headscarves to enter the tekke. Trouts are farmed in the river, and several excellent restaurants serve trout with seating on the riverbank. There is an impressive ancient fort with amazing views on top of the mountain. Follow the road past the village's "old town" and then ask where the trail starts, or just follow the road (keep right) to where the road swerves left (you'll see several ancient gravestones) and you'll find the path on your right. The trail is about 2 km. There are numerous campsites in Blagaj directly adjacent to the Buna river. Velagićevina (the Velagić family House) was built in 17th century and is a beautiful example of the Ottoman residential architecture, a one-story structure with typically extended porches. In the vicinity there are also old flour mills that were in the old days powered by the strong Buna River. There are two guesthouses including Ottoman Villa Velagomed Hotel .

Međugorje., 25 km from Mostar, is popular among pilgrims due to an alleged apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary to youths in the town. Buses depart from the bus station every few hours.

Stolac. - an old Ottoman town with the medieval cemetery of Radimlja (Nekropola Radimlja), the Illyrian site of Daorson and the palaeolithic cave painting at the Badanj Cave (Pećina Badanj).

Kravica. Waterfall gorge, 25 km north of Mostar, is popular for outdoor sports such as biking, hiking, canyoning, and climbing. The Drežanka River is a tributary of the Neretva, and the two rivers join in an artificial hydropower lake. Take a bus in the direction of Drežnica - there are buses which go all the way to the end of the gorge, Gornja Drežnica. Or take the train in the direction of Sarajevo and get off at train stop Drežnica, approx. 30 min. There are several camp sites and basic accommodation, although you will need your own sporting equipment.

  • Ploče, Croatia - is the nearest seaside town to Mostar, and is easily accessible with numerous buses and trains daily. Beaches are nicest for swimming north of the city.
  • Jablanica - town between Mostar and Konjic, home to Dugopolje necropolis.
  • Sarajevo
  • Belgrade