Mount Putuo

Mount Putuo (普陀山 Pǔtuóshān) is an island and National Park in Zhoushan, near Ningbo in Zhejiang province, and derives its name from a sacred Buddhist mountain at the center of the island.

Putuoshan reaches only 297 meters above sea level and is 5 km east of Zhoushan island in Zhejiang province. The mountain is dedicated to Guanyin, often known in English as the Goddess of Mercy or the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara.

This is by far the lowest and among the most accessible of the four sacred mountains of Chinese Buddhism (the others being Emeishan, Wutaishan, and Jiuhuashan), and because it's a small, forested island, the space available for visitors is somewhat constrained. This can make it quite crowded and far from tranquil, especially around the most famous temples. However, the island still retains a special atmosphere and natural surroundings, and seems more laid-back than many similar tourist destinations. With roughly 80 temples on the island, of which only about three are famous, it's easy to find more-obscure, less-crowded options.

There is an accommodation bureau at the port. The staff are extremely helpful, and provide reliable information on hotels and guest houses on the island. During national holidays and the nights before Guanyin's three birthdays it is advisable to make prior room reservations, but this is not generally necessary at other periods.

Another tourist office is on the main square near Puji temple, and this is a good place to pick up free English-language guides and maps.

No matter how you arrive, it costs ¥160 to land on Putuoshan as the whole island is a National Park. This is collected in a large hall as you leave the ferry dock. If the accommodation options on the island are too extortionate for your tastes, you can get free re-entry if you register your face at the "visa office" on the right after leaving the ticket hall. You will then need to find the facial recognition gates when you return the next day.

Unlike at many other Chinese national parks, transportation around the island and to Luojiashan is not included in the ticket. The efficient shuttle bus network links all the island's main attractions, and charges either ¥5 or 10 per ride, depending on the distance. The destinations and costs are posted at each bus stop. The return trip to Luojiashan costs 70¥.

• Fayu Monastery. At the foot of Fodingshan (Foding mountain), at the north end of 1000 Step Beach. ¥5.
• Huiji Monastery. The lazy can reach the temple by cable car (¥40 return). Take Bus 2 from the port (¥10). More active visitors and pilgrims take the concrete steps from near Fayu Temple. It takes about 1 hour to climb the mountain. If your interest is old military installations, turn right soon after the start of this stair ascent up a smaller set of stone steps. After 10-15 minutes, this continues through a series of anti-ship and anti-aircraft gun emplacements with gunner accommodation and ammunition stowage built into the cliffs. Everything is in very good condition, there is no impediment to access, and looks like the PLA continues to take an interest. Also being off the beaten path, there is a complete absence of other visitors. You can then continue to the summit of Fodingshan on earthen paths, using common sense navigation because nothing is signposted in this area. But this is less interesting. ¥5.
• Puji Monastery. This is the most accessible and famous monastery on Putuoshan. Nearby there are hotels, restaurants and interesting shops. A public ritual performed by the monks runs from 4:30AM to 7AM. It is crowded at this time, so unless you are interested in the ceremony, it's best to visit the temple outside these hours. ¥5.

Fayu Monastery. At the foot of Fodingshan (Foding mountain), at the north end of 1000 Step Beach. ¥5.

Huiji Monastery. The lazy can reach the temple by cable car (¥40 return). Take Bus 2 from the port (¥10). More active visitors and pilgrims take the concrete steps from near Fayu Temple. It takes about 1 hour to climb the mountain. If your interest is old military installations, turn right soon after the start of this stair ascent up a smaller set of stone steps. After 10-15 minutes, this continues through a series of anti-ship and anti-aircraft gun emplacements with gunner accommodation and ammunition stowage built into the cliffs. Everything is in very good condition, there is no impediment to access, and looks like the PLA continues to take an interest. Also being off the beaten path, there is a complete absence of other visitors. You can then continue to the summit of Fodingshan on earthen paths, using common sense navigation because nothing is signposted in this area. But this is less interesting. ¥5.

Puji Monastery. This is the most accessible and famous monastery on Putuoshan. Nearby there are hotels, restaurants and interesting shops. A public ritual performed by the monks runs from 4:30AM to 7AM. It is crowded at this time, so unless you are interested in the ceremony, it's best to visit the temple outside these hours. ¥5.

A small island to the southeast of Putuo Shan which resembles someone sleeping on their back, Luojia Shan. (洛迦山) can be seen from Bukenqu Temple. An old saying states: 'if you don't visit Luojia Shan, the pilgrimage to Putuo Shan is incomplete'. The ferry to Luojia Shan costs ¥70 return, and departs from the Luojia Shan ferry port., near the main ferry terminal. There are at least two sailings per day, at least one in the morning and one in the afternoon, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. At busy times, the ferries may run every 20-30 minutes or there may be one or two extra sailings, so check the schedule or ask. The ferry stays at Luojia Shan for two hours before returning to Putuo Shan, so it is important to keep your eye on the time. Accessing nearly anything interesting on Luojia Shan requires passing over the main ridge, so be prepared for some stair climbing. The island has no food or accommodation, nor any commercial activity at all, aside from four drink vending machines which do not accept cash or cards.

• Miaozhan Pagoda. An intricately-carved stone pagoda sits roughly on the island's belly button.
• Yuantong Monastery.
• Dajue Monastery. Monastery accessed via a yellow-walled corridor.
• Luojiashan Lighthouse. It is possible to continue another 300m past the monasteries to a lighthouse.

A small island to the southeast of Putuo Shan which resembles someone sleeping on their back, Luojia Shan. (洛迦山) can be seen from Bukenqu Temple. An old saying states: 'if you don't visit Luojia Shan, the pilgrimage to Putuo Shan is incomplete'. The ferry to Luojia Shan costs ¥70 return, and departs from the Luojia Shan ferry port., near the main ferry terminal. There are at least two sailings per day, at least one in the morning and one in the afternoon, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. At busy times, the ferries may run every 20-30 minutes or there may be one or two extra sailings, so check the schedule or ask. The ferry stays at Luojia Shan for two hours before returning to Putuo Shan, so it is important to keep your eye on the time. Accessing nearly anything interesting on Luojia Shan requires passing over the main ridge, so be prepared for some stair climbing. The island has no food or accommodation, nor any commercial activity at all, aside from four drink vending machines which do not accept cash or cards.

A small island to the southeast of Putuo Shan which resembles someone sleeping on their back, Luojia Shan. (洛迦山) can be seen from Bukenqu Temple. An old saying states: 'if you don't visit Luojia Shan, the pilgrimage to Putuo Shan is incomplete'. The ferry to Luojia Shan costs ¥70 return, and departs from the Luojia Shan ferry port., near the main ferry terminal. There are at least two sailings per day, at least one in the morning and one in the afternoon, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. At busy times, the ferries may run every 20-30 minutes or there may be one or two extra sailings, so check the schedule or ask. The ferry stays at Luojia Shan for two hours before returning to Putuo Shan, so it is important to keep your eye on the time. Accessing nearly anything interesting on Luojia Shan requires passing over the main ridge, so be prepared for some stair climbing. The island has no food or accommodation, nor any commercial activity at all, aside from four drink vending machines which do not accept cash or cards.

Miaozhan Pagoda. An intricately-carved stone pagoda sits roughly on the island's belly button.

Yuantong Monastery.

Dajue Monastery. Monastery accessed via a yellow-walled corridor.

Luojiashan Lighthouse. It is possible to continue another 300m past the monasteries to a lighthouse.

• Northern Village. Accessed by walking north up the hill from the lower cable car station, past the large new development on the coast (on the right). After 1-2 km, at the end of the road, is the start of a footpath that leads through an historic village in various stages of disrepair. While some residents remain, the majority of villagers were re-settled in new dwellings with services back south of the ferry terminal. Continue on via a PLA training area to the northern tip of the island, but staying on the earthen path may be good advice. You have to walk back to the cable car station to exit the area.
• Fanyin Cave. From Fayu Monastery a 15 min. bus ride. It is a nice trip to the east coast. From there you can walk 20 min. through the forest to the quiet Shancai Cave (善财洞)..
• Other Monasteries. If you don't want to meet many people and prefer to explore the quieter monasteries, try to walk around. There are nearly 80 other quiet and nice monasteries to explore in the forests.
• Chao Yindong. Cliffs carved with the three characters "Chao Yindong", handwritten by the Department of the Qing Emperor Kangxi.
• Sea stamp pad. 24 hours. A series of ponds, bridges, and pavilions in front of Puji Temple. The Royal Beiting, octagonal and Puji temple in formation of the axis will be sea seal pool is partitioned into one divides into two., thing two pool.Sea seal pool built stone three, intermediate a deck of flat and wide, North Temple front gate, South from the Royal Beiting, bridge has a pavilion, also known as the octagonal pavilion, facing the temple gate, visitors can sit here. Free.
• South Sea Guanyin. 33m-high statue of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy, to whom the entire island is dedicated. There is a large stone plaza in front, and the access road also accesses two small temples out on the rocks next to the ocean. ¥6.

Northern Village. Accessed by walking north up the hill from the lower cable car station, past the large new development on the coast (on the right). After 1-2 km, at the end of the road, is the start of a footpath that leads through an historic village in various stages of disrepair. While some residents remain, the majority of villagers were re-settled in new dwellings with services back south of the ferry terminal. Continue on via a PLA training area to the northern tip of the island, but staying on the earthen path may be good advice. You have to walk back to the cable car station to exit the area.

Fanyin Cave. From Fayu Monastery a 15 min. bus ride. It is a nice trip to the east coast. From there you can walk 20 min. through the forest to the quiet Shancai Cave (善财洞)..

Other Monasteries. If you don't want to meet many people and prefer to explore the quieter monasteries, try to walk around. There are nearly 80 other quiet and nice monasteries to explore in the forests.

Chao Yindong. Cliffs carved with the three characters "Chao Yindong", handwritten by the Department of the Qing Emperor Kangxi.

Sea stamp pad. 24 hours. A series of ponds, bridges, and pavilions in front of Puji Temple. The Royal Beiting, octagonal and Puji temple in formation of the axis will be sea seal pool is partitioned into one divides into two., thing two pool.Sea seal pool built stone three, intermediate a deck of flat and wide, North Temple front gate, South from the Royal Beiting, bridge has a pavilion, also known as the octagonal pavilion, facing the temple gate, visitors can sit here. Free.

South Sea Guanyin. 33m-high statue of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy, to whom the entire island is dedicated. There is a large stone plaza in front, and the access road also accesses two small temples out on the rocks next to the ocean. ¥6.

• Cable Car. Ride the cable car from the bottom of the mountain then explore the temples at the top, climb down slowly and admire the pagodas and temples along the way.
• Foding Shan. 24 hours. Or, you could hike up Foding Shan as described above under Huiji Temple. The summit, the highest point on the island, is a military radar station and cannot be accessed, but the temple is worth a visit and the route up passes some interesting rocks and structures. Free.
• Relax There are two beautiful beaches near to the main hotels on Putuoshan, namely Hundred Step Beach. and Thousand Step Beach.. The former has facilities such as lockers and showers, lounge chairs and parasols for hire, with quadbikes and banana boats also available. At night, Hundred Step Beach is sometimes used to host karaoke parties. Thousand Step Beach is longer and more peaceful but no facilities are available and signs forbid swimming. Another beach immediately south of Hundred Step Beach is closed to the public. The beach on the south side of the island., despite having a village next to it, is not as developed or patrolled as Hundred Step Beach.

Cable Car. Ride the cable car from the bottom of the mountain then explore the temples at the top, climb down slowly and admire the pagodas and temples along the way.

Foding Shan. 24 hours. Or, you could hike up Foding Shan as described above under Huiji Temple. The summit, the highest point on the island, is a military radar station and cannot be accessed, but the temple is worth a visit and the route up passes some interesting rocks and structures. Free.

Relax There are two beautiful beaches near to the main hotels on Putuoshan, namely Hundred Step Beach. and Thousand Step Beach.. The former has facilities such as lockers and showers, lounge chairs and parasols for hire, with quadbikes and banana boats also available. At night, Hundred Step Beach is sometimes used to host karaoke parties. Thousand Step Beach is longer and more peaceful but no facilities are available and signs forbid swimming. Another beach immediately south of Hundred Step Beach is closed to the public. The beach on the south side of the island., despite having a village next to it, is not as developed or patrolled as Hundred Step Beach.

Relax There are two beautiful beaches near to the main hotels on Putuoshan, namely Hundred Step Beach. and Thousand Step Beach.. The former has facilities such as lockers and showers, lounge chairs and parasols for hire, with quadbikes and banana boats also available. At night, Hundred Step Beach is sometimes used to host karaoke parties. Thousand Step Beach is longer and more peaceful but no facilities are available and signs forbid swimming. Another beach immediately south of Hundred Step Beach is closed to the public. The beach on the south side of the island., despite having a village next to it, is not as developed or patrolled as Hundred Step Beach.

Relax There are two beautiful beaches near to the main hotels on Putuoshan, namely Hundred Step Beach. and Thousand Step Beach.. The former has facilities such as lockers and showers, lounge chairs and parasols for hire, with quadbikes and banana boats also available. At night, Hundred Step Beach is sometimes used to host karaoke parties. Thousand Step Beach is longer and more peaceful but no facilities are available and signs forbid swimming. Another beach immediately south of Hundred Step Beach is closed to the public. The beach on the south side of the island., despite having a village next to it, is not as developed or patrolled as Hundred Step Beach.

Near Puji Temple there is a night market that sells a variety of souvenirs, statues and raw seafood, a number of convenience stores, and a few restaurants offering inexpensive meals.

• Temple food. Inexpensive (¥5-12) vegetarian fare is available at many of the temples. Options are available for all three meals, but lunch is the easiest to find. Lunch can start as early as 10:30 and ends at 11.30-12.00, and dinner will be 16.00-17.00 or 16:30-17:30. Breakfast is the hardest to find, and will be finished by 07:30.
• Vegetarian. As a Buddhist island, most of the island's restaurants offer a good selection of vegetarian dishes.
• Chinese dishes. The hotels near Puji Temple have restaurants that are open to non-residents.
• Seafood. The new village., south of the ferry terminal, boasts many seafood restaurants with an excellent fresh selection. Prices are 20-25% dearer than the mainland, but the quality of shellfish and fish is first rate. The non-Chinese speaker will have to point to the display and hope for the best.

There are few English menus available and most staff do not speak any English, even in the larger hotels and restaurants. Don`t forget your English-Chinese dictionary or translation app, especially for food with Chinese characters. Western food is extremely limited on the island -- there is a small bakery./coffee shop on the main road to Puji Temple, near the tunnel. If you are lucky you may get some toast for breakfast in the larger hotels.

Temple food. Inexpensive (¥5-12) vegetarian fare is available at many of the temples. Options are available for all three meals, but lunch is the easiest to find. Lunch can start as early as 10:30 and ends at 11.30-12.00, and dinner will be 16.00-17.00 or 16:30-17:30. Breakfast is the hardest to find, and will be finished by 07:30.

Vegetarian. As a Buddhist island, most of the island's restaurants offer a good selection of vegetarian dishes.

Chinese dishes. The hotels near Puji Temple have restaurants that are open to non-residents.

Seafood. The new village., south of the ferry terminal, boasts many seafood restaurants with an excellent fresh selection. Prices are 20-25% dearer than the mainland, but the quality of shellfish and fish is first rate. The non-Chinese speaker will have to point to the display and hope for the best.

There are few English menus available and most staff do not speak any English, even in the larger hotels and restaurants. Don`t forget your English-Chinese dictionary or translation app, especially for food with Chinese characters. Western food is extremely limited on the island -- there is a small bakery./coffee shop on the main road to Puji Temple, near the tunnel. If you are lucky you may get some toast for breakfast in the larger hotels.

• Putuoshan Beer is served in a number of the hotel restaurants and is worth a drink if only for novelty value.

Putuoshan Beer is served in a number of the hotel restaurants and is worth a drink if only for novelty value.

Some of the trails can be slippery when wet. Several parts of the island are military facilities which are best not entered or photographed.

• Ningbo, Shanghai, and the rest of Zhoushan are within easy reach of Mount Putuo.