Ninh Binh

Vietnam

Tour boats in the nearby Tam Coc area Tam Coc Ninh Binh is a city in North Vietnam with population of 130,517 people.

Ninh Binh is famous for the nearby karst scenery and the village of Tam Coc. There isn't much to do around, apart from drinking beer with the locals, but it is useful as a base for the surrounding countryside.

Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex is a inscribed as a mixed natural and cultural property, a spectacular limestone karst landscape. The archeological remains found in caves trace human presence since 30,000 years. Part of the heritage is Hoa Lu, the old capital of Vietnam.

There are three main spots, where people board boat tours: Trang An, Tam Coc and Vân Long. Tam Coc being the most famous and therefore crowded of them.

  • Trang An Grottoes. An easy bicycle ride away, Trang An Grottoes is similar to Tam Coc, but with many more caves to pass through. Tourists who have also visited Tam Coc prefer this trip as there are not as many hawkers. Most caves have been widened in order for the boats to pass through and as result their natural beauty has been compromised. The first two caves are the most natural and beautiful, but are also tight in places, so watch your head. Lots of concrete structures are being built all over the place, and rice paddies are disappearing fast, but hopefully this area will not lose its splendor. It might be worth bringing a torch in case the power fails and the lights go out. Some of the tunnels are quite long and your rower may have forgotten his backup torch.
    There is a parking fee of 15,000 dong for two wheelers (bicycle or motorbike) as of June 2016. The boat trip lasts more than 2 hours so make sure you carry water and some nibbles. 150,000 dong entrance fee.
  • Hoa Lu ancient capital. The ancient capital during Dinh (968-80) and Le dynasties (980-1009). Mostly destroyed, there is the temple of Dinh Tien Hoang, the temple of King Le Dai Hahn, Nhat Tru Pagoda, and on top of a hill, Dinh Tien Hoang's tomb. There are also boat trips on the river to Xuyen Thuy cave, less spectacular than other caves in the area. Entrance to cave is 15,000 dong. 12,000 dong.
  • Chua Bai Dinh. Huge new Buddhist complex, mostly visited by Vietnamese.

Trang An Grottoes. An easy bicycle ride away, Trang An Grottoes is similar to Tam Coc, but with many more caves to pass through. Tourists who have also visited Tam Coc prefer this trip as there are not as many hawkers. Most caves have been widened in order for the boats to pass through and as result their natural beauty has been compromised. The first two caves are the most natural and beautiful, but are also tight in places, so watch your head. Lots of concrete structures are being built all over the place, and rice paddies are disappearing fast, but hopefully this area will not lose its splendor. It might be worth bringing a torch in case the power fails and the lights go out. Some of the tunnels are quite long and your rower may have forgotten his backup torch.
There is a parking fee of 15,000 dong for two wheelers (bicycle or motorbike) as of June 2016. The boat trip lasts more than 2 hours so make sure you carry water and some nibbles. 150,000 dong entrance fee.

Hoa Lu ancient capital. The ancient capital during Dinh (968-80) and Le dynasties (980-1009). Mostly destroyed, there is the temple of Dinh Tien Hoang, the temple of King Le Dai Hahn, Nhat Tru Pagoda, and on top of a hill, Dinh Tien Hoang's tomb. There are also boat trips on the river to Xuyen Thuy cave, less spectacular than other caves in the area. Entrance to cave is 15,000 dong. 12,000 dong.

Chua Bai Dinh. Huge new Buddhist complex, mostly visited by Vietnamese.

Tam Coc Bich Dong pagoda 9 km south of Ninh Binh, along Hwy 1. It's an easy bicycle ride from Ninh Binh, with no hills

  • Tam Coc. One of Vietnam's most spectacular sights. A boat can be hired that will take you along the river. Excursion begins at the village of Van Lam and proceeding through a scenic landscape dominated by rice fields and karst towers. The route includes floating through three natural caves (Hang Cả, Hang Hai, and Hang Ba), the largest of which is 125-m long with its ceiling about 2-m high above the water. Vast limestone cliffs rise out of the rice paddies. The area is somewhat similar to Ha Long Bay, but more accessible and much less touristy. The best time to go is in the morning or late afternoon, when it's quieter and cooler with more shade. Last boats start out about 17:30 in the summer and 16:30 in the winter. 150,000 dong per boat (maximum 2 foreigners per boat), plus admission of 120,000 dong per person.
  • The area around Tam Coc is equally beautiful, and is best viewed from the back of a motorbike or by bicycle. There is also a temple atop one of the hills which provides incredible views.
  • Bích Động Pagoda. Three temples carved into a limestone mountain, dating from the 15th-century reign of Le Thai To. The lower temple has a stone next to it that resonates when tapped, plus a Buddha footprint. The middle temple has an 18th-century bell, a cave and resonating pillars. The top temple has a view of the surrounding countryside, which is good for sunsets. Free entrance, although a fee is required to park the motorbike near the entrance. The lady charging the fee may try to overcharge by implying that it also includes the entrance to the temples, but this is a lie as the entrance is free. Do not pay more than 20k! Even 20k is too much for parking, just leave the bike farther away from the entrance to avoid paying at all.
  • Hang Mua. Hundreds of steps will lead you to a unimpressive temple on top of a hill with incredibly stunning views over Tam Coc and Ninh Binh’s countryside. 100,000 dong entrance fee + 3,000 dong bicycle/motorbike parking fee.

Tam Coc. One of Vietnam's most spectacular sights. A boat can be hired that will take you along the river. Excursion begins at the village of Van Lam and proceeding through a scenic landscape dominated by rice fields and karst towers. The route includes floating through three natural caves (Hang Cả, Hang Hai, and Hang Ba), the largest of which is 125-m long with its ceiling about 2-m high above the water. Vast limestone cliffs rise out of the rice paddies. The area is somewhat similar to Ha Long Bay, but more accessible and much less touristy. The best time to go is in the morning or late afternoon, when it's quieter and cooler with more shade. Last boats start out about 17:30 in the summer and 16:30 in the winter. 150,000 dong per boat (maximum 2 foreigners per boat), plus admission of 120,000 dong per person.

The area around Tam Coc is equally beautiful, and is best viewed from the back of a motorbike or by bicycle. There is also a temple atop one of the hills which provides incredible views.

Bích Động Pagoda. Three temples carved into a limestone mountain, dating from the 15th-century reign of Le Thai To. The lower temple has a stone next to it that resonates when tapped, plus a Buddha footprint. The middle temple has an 18th-century bell, a cave and resonating pillars. The top temple has a view of the surrounding countryside, which is good for sunsets. Free entrance, although a fee is required to park the motorbike near the entrance. The lady charging the fee may try to overcharge by implying that it also includes the entrance to the temples, but this is a lie as the entrance is free. Do not pay more than 20k! Even 20k is too much for parking, just leave the bike farther away from the entrance to avoid paying at all.

Hang Mua. Hundreds of steps will lead you to a unimpressive temple on top of a hill with incredibly stunning views over Tam Coc and Ninh Binh’s countryside. 100,000 dong entrance fee + 3,000 dong bicycle/motorbike parking fee.

Vân Long Nature Reserve.

Dich Long Cave and Pagoda, Gia Thanh commune.

  • Cuc Phuong National Park. A well-preserved rainforest with an Endangered Primates Rescue Centre near the entrance. You can only visit the centre with a park guide, which costs an extra 20,000 dong per person and doesn't take long. There are about 150 primates here being prepared for release back in the wild. Most are from other parts of Vietnam and any releases will be where they originally came from. There is also a botanical garden near the entrance. From the entrance you can drive, motorbike or cycle a further 20 km along a densely forested paved road, from which several bypaths lead you through the jungle to prehistoric trees and caves. Cycling is probably the most rewarding way to travel this 20 km of often steeply inclined paved road and mountain bikes can be hired at the park entrance. The road ends at the park centre (Bong), from where there are several forest walks. The park centre has a restaurant and a place to buy snacks. The best chance to see any animals here is at night. Guided night tours for overnight stayers are available. There are other points of interest along the narrow 20 km road such as a cave, ancient trees, and walking trails. One of the amazing things about this drive is the thousands of colourful butterflies filling the roadway. Peak time for butterflies apparently is Apr-May, but in later months there may still be many to be seen. It is especially enjoyable to touch the thousand-year-old cho xanh (parashrea stellata) and sau (dracontomelum duperranum or dancorra edulis) trees, 50-70 m high. The park is also perfect for seeing birds, butterflies, and orchids. They are more concentrated than in a typical butterfly farm enclosure. A limited amount of overnight accommodation is available in either a detached bungalow or a stilt house. 20,000 dong.
  • Bear Sanctuary Ninh Binh, Address: Cuc Phuong - Bai Dinh road, Ky Phu commune, Nho Quan district, Ninh Binh province, Vietnam, + 84 229 366 6388. Was built by the animal welfare organisation Four Paws in 2019 and is located in northern Vietnam. Within the next years the sanctuary will be expanded to 10 ha. The sanctuary has opened for visitors in January 2019. Different from other sanctuaries, visitors will not be able to enter the whole sanctuary. A path leads the visitors above some enclosures to allow them to observe the bears from a distance. There is also an education centre is also planned and will be completed after the sanctuary has opened for visitors first.
  • Phat Diem Cathedral. Cathedral known for its scale and its oriental style. Completed in 1891. One of the earliest areas to be reached by missionaries; Portuguese priests were here in 1627.

Cuc Phuong National Park. A well-preserved rainforest with an Endangered Primates Rescue Centre near the entrance. You can only visit the centre with a park guide, which costs an extra 20,000 dong per person and doesn't take long. There are about 150 primates here being prepared for release back in the wild. Most are from other parts of Vietnam and any releases will be where they originally came from. There is also a botanical garden near the entrance. From the entrance you can drive, motorbike or cycle a further 20 km along a densely forested paved road, from which several bypaths lead you through the jungle to prehistoric trees and caves. Cycling is probably the most rewarding way to travel this 20 km of often steeply inclined paved road and mountain bikes can be hired at the park entrance. The road ends at the park centre (Bong), from where there are several forest walks. The park centre has a restaurant and a place to buy snacks. The best chance to see any animals here is at night. Guided night tours for overnight stayers are available. There are other points of interest along the narrow 20 km road such as a cave, ancient trees, and walking trails. One of the amazing things about this drive is the thousands of colourful butterflies filling the roadway. Peak time for butterflies apparently is Apr-May, but in later months there may still be many to be seen. It is especially enjoyable to touch the thousand-year-old cho xanh (parashrea stellata) and sau (dracontomelum duperranum or dancorra edulis) trees, 50-70 m high. The park is also perfect for seeing birds, butterflies, and orchids. They are more concentrated than in a typical butterfly farm enclosure. A limited amount of overnight accommodation is available in either a detached bungalow or a stilt house. 20,000 dong.

Bear Sanctuary Ninh Binh, Address: Cuc Phuong - Bai Dinh road, Ky Phu commune, Nho Quan district, Ninh Binh province, Vietnam, + 84 229 366 6388. Was built by the animal welfare organisation Four Paws in 2019 and is located in northern Vietnam. Within the next years the sanctuary will be expanded to 10 ha. The sanctuary has opened for visitors in January 2019. Different from other sanctuaries, visitors will not be able to enter the whole sanctuary. A path leads the visitors above some enclosures to allow them to observe the bears from a distance. There is also an education centre is also planned and will be completed after the sanctuary has opened for visitors first.

Phat Diem Cathedral. Cathedral known for its scale and its oriental style. Completed in 1891. One of the earliest areas to be reached by missionaries; Portuguese priests were here in 1627.

There is a fresh fruit market next to the main market across the bridge.

Mountain goat (de nui) meat is a local speciality, often eaten with fried rice (com chien). Another local speciality is com chay, which is the burnt rice off the bottom of the pot, served with pork. Duck is featured in many restaurants, and there are numerous dog-meat restaurants scattered throughout town (look for signs with a picture of a Great Dane or similar breed and the words thit cho).

The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker area, and there are 4-5 backpacker cafes there with English menus and tourist prices (40,000-70,000 dong; coffee 15,000-20,000 dong). The three most popular restaurants are called "Good Food", "Cheap Good Food" and "Fast Food Cheap" (all on Hoang Hoa Tham).

  • Chookie's, 17 Luong Van Tuy (Across from the Ngoc Anh Hotel. Good burgers and also a decent selection of Vietnamese at reasonable prices. Staff speak English and can answer any questions you have about Ninh Binh.
  • Trung Tuyet Restaurant, 14 Hoang Hoa Tham (Half a block straight ahead from the train station entrance, +84 303 874 510. Open late. A few tables on the street and one of the few restaurants in the city that caters to Westerners. The menu offers 3 or 4 sizes of portions at different prices, however even the small sized portions are larger than in other towns. Coffee 20,000 dong, Fruit salad 30,000 dong. Yogurt 8,000 dong. Chicken with noodles 50,000 dong.
  • Pho bò 24, Le Hong Phong Street (From Tran Hung Dao about 200 meters on the left. A small restaurant for locals with the food cooked in front of you. A few tables on the street and few inside. Soups and noodle for 25,000 dong and 30,000 dong. Have an English menu.
  • Chookie's Beer Garden, Tam Coc - Bich Dong Road (700m from boat station on the way to Bich Dong Pagoda. Open from 9am. Great place to relax and have a drink and something to eat. Good burgers, salads and Smoothies. Plenty of Vegan options too.
  • Aroma, Ninh Hải, Hoa Lư District (At the Eastern end of Tam Coc village, +84 229 3621 818. 10AM-10PM. Indian restaurant which is one of the few in town to have air-con. Excellent Indian food and snappy service. Enormous nan breads! Very reasonable prices given the quality.

Chookie's, 17 Luong Van Tuy (Across from the Ngoc Anh Hotel. Good burgers and also a decent selection of Vietnamese at reasonable prices. Staff speak English and can answer any questions you have about Ninh Binh.

Trung Tuyet Restaurant, 14 Hoang Hoa Tham (Half a block straight ahead from the train station entrance, +84 303 874 510. Open late. A few tables on the street and one of the few restaurants in the city that caters to Westerners. The menu offers 3 or 4 sizes of portions at different prices, however even the small sized portions are larger than in other towns. Coffee 20,000 dong, Fruit salad 30,000 dong. Yogurt 8,000 dong. Chicken with noodles 50,000 dong.

Pho bò 24, Le Hong Phong Street (From Tran Hung Dao about 200 meters on the left. A small restaurant for locals with the food cooked in front of you. A few tables on the street and few inside. Soups and noodle for 25,000 dong and 30,000 dong. Have an English menu.

Chookie's Beer Garden, Tam Coc - Bich Dong Road (700m from boat station on the way to Bich Dong Pagoda. Open from 9am. Great place to relax and have a drink and something to eat. Good burgers, salads and Smoothies. Plenty of Vegan options too.

Aroma, Ninh Hải, Hoa Lư District (At the Eastern end of Tam Coc village, +84 229 3621 818. 10AM-10PM. Indian restaurant which is one of the few in town to have air-con. Excellent Indian food and snappy service. Enormous nan breads! Very reasonable prices given the quality.

There are plenty of bia hoi sellers along the river in the late afternoon and evenings. One glass usually costs 5,000 dong. Plenty of places sell a sugar cane drink with ice for about 5,000 dong.

Tips for Tam Coc boat excursion:

  • When leaving your motorbike at the departure point, beware of thieves (such as removing a mirror while the motorbike is parked, then selling it back to you for 100,000 dong). Look for official parking areas to avoid such scams.
  • When you catch the boat from the harbour, try not to board a boat that is loaded with boxes at departure. The boxes are filled with handicrafts and are intended for you to buy. During the return trip the rowers might suddenly turn from friendly rowers to pushy sellers. Don't ruin your experience by allowing this. Demand a rower/boat without handicraft/souvenir boxes.

  • Hanoi
  • Ha Long Bay
  • Laos - There is a nightly bus from Hanoi that will stop in Ninh Binh on request. From there it is a grim 20 hr journey to Vientiane.