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Almaty is the largest city and the financial and cultural centre of Kazakhstan.

Almaty was the country's capital before, which is now Astana. But it remains the obvious gateway to visiting this region, as indeed it has been for over a thousand years, standing astride the Silk Road. Just south of the city, snow-capped mountains mark the border with Kyrgyzstan.

The city is modern, laid out on a grid pattern, so if you're going uphill, you're probably going south. It's not a cheap city, but the people are friendly and hospitable; there's also a significant ex-pat community.

Pogulay is a helpful guidebook to the city, printed in English and Russian and sold at newsstands. It's priced at US$3 and covers all the attractions, including photos and descriptions.

Tourist Information Office, 81 Bogenbai Batyr. Daily 08:00-20:00. Very helpful. Unfortunately, the government-run place on Kurmangazy has closed..

Tourist Information Office, 81 Bogenbai Batyr. Daily 08:00-20:00. Very helpful. Unfortunately, the government-run place on Kurmangazy has closed..

Zenkov's Cathedral Central Mosque of Almaty

Ascension Cathedral, Kazybek Bi St (In Panfilov Park, Metro Zhibek Zholy. Completed in 1907, it's re-opened after renovation in 2018/19, though some interior work continues. (New saints are being painted in, though presumably they're known to the hagiographers.) The iconostasis is spectacular. At 56 m this among the tallest wooden buildings in the world, which you wouldn't guess from the smoothly painted exterior hues of custard, icing sugar and coloured marzipan - it's more like a lure for Hansel & Gretel.
Holy Kazan Cathedral, Khaliullina str (Халиуллина) 45a (By jcn of Tatibekova St, 3 km northeast of Rayimbek Metro. Small, brightly painted Russian Orthodox Church.
St Nicholas Cathedral, Ulitsa Baytursynov (3 blocks north of Baykonur Metro, next to Nikolsky Bazaar.. Was built in 1909. It was used as a barn for Soviet cavalry horses but was eventually restored and reopened as a church in 1980. Main entrance is west side from Baytursnov, but there's also a little gate from the park just south.
Central Mosque of Almaty, Ul. Pushkin (ул. Пушкина), 16 (Metro: Raiymbek batyr, +7 727 397 760. Spacious decorated interior.
Sophia Cathedral, Ulitsa Sadovnikov (Садовникова улица), 196., +7 727 225 0313. Tranquil monastery compound centred on the cathedral, plus small chapels.

Ascension Cathedral, Kazybek Bi St (In Panfilov Park, Metro Zhibek Zholy. Completed in 1907, it's re-opened after renovation in 2018/19, though some interior work continues. (New saints are being painted in, though presumably they're known to the hagiographers.) The iconostasis is spectacular. At 56 m this among the tallest wooden buildings in the world, which you wouldn't guess from the smoothly painted exterior hues of custard, icing sugar and coloured marzipan - it's more like a lure for Hansel & Gretel.

Holy Kazan Cathedral, Khaliullina str (Халиуллина) 45a (By jcn of Tatibekova St, 3 km northeast of Rayimbek Metro. Small, brightly painted Russian Orthodox Church.

St Nicholas Cathedral, Ulitsa Baytursynov (3 blocks north of Baykonur Metro, next to Nikolsky Bazaar.. Was built in 1909. It was used as a barn for Soviet cavalry horses but was eventually restored and reopened as a church in 1980. Main entrance is west side from Baytursnov, but there's also a little gate from the park just south.

Central Mosque of Almaty, Ul. Pushkin (ул. Пушкина), 16 (Metro: Raiymbek batyr, +7 727 397 760. Spacious decorated interior.

Sophia Cathedral, Ulitsa Sadovnikov (Садовникова улица), 196., +7 727 225 0313. Tranquil monastery compound centred on the cathedral, plus small chapels.

Akhmet Baytursynov Memorial Museum, Baytursynov 60 (3 blocks north of Baikonur metro. Daily 09:00-18:00. Akhmet Baytursynov (1873-1937) was a Kazakh intellectual active in politics, poetry, linguistics and education, so inevitably he was shot during Stalin's "Great Purge". The museum is becoming crumbly.
Museum of Archaeology, Ulitsa Kaldayakov (near Dostyk Ave. M-F 09:00-18:00. Mammoths, dinosaurs and similar.
Museum of Rare Books, Ulitsa Shevchenko 28 (2 blocks north of Abay metro. The guided tour is recommended, not clear what languages are available. 100 tenge.
Geology Museum, 85 Dostyk Ave. M-F 10:00-17:00. Small museum of Kazakhstan's rich geology.
A. Kasteyev Art Museum, Ulitsa Satpaev (Metro Auezov Theater. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Huge collection spanning Oriental, Russian and Kazakh arts. The Stakhanovite scenes from Stalin's era are fascinating. 300 tenge.
Central State Museum, Prospekt Nazarbaeva (formerly Furmanov) (Opposite Presidential Palace, Metro 'Abay', +7 727 264 2680. W-M 09:30-17:30. Blue-roofed. Features displays on Kazakh history, from prehistoric times through the Mongol periods to the present. Guided tours in English (and other languages) are available if you call the museum ahead of time to reserve. Adult 500 tenge.
Museum of Kazakh Musical Instruments, Zenkov St (South of Gogol near Heroes Memorial Park. Tu-Su 10:00-19:00. Small museum with fine traditional facade; exhibits have descriptions in Kazakh, Russian and English. 500 tenge.
Railway Museum, Nazarbaeyev 127 (Metro Almaly. Small museum about the railways in Kazakhstan.
M. Auezov Literature Memorial House, Tulebaev street 187 (Opposite Abay metro. Daily 10:00-17:00. Mukhtar Auezov (1897-1961) was a distinguished Soviet / Kazakh playwright and novelist; he lived here for his last ten years. Atmospheric, but you'll need decent Russian to glean much. He's also commemorated further down the boulevard by the Auezov Theatre. 50 Tenge.

Akhmet Baytursynov Memorial Museum, Baytursynov 60 (3 blocks north of Baikonur metro. Daily 09:00-18:00. Akhmet Baytursynov (1873-1937) was a Kazakh intellectual active in politics, poetry, linguistics and education, so inevitably he was shot during Stalin's "Great Purge". The museum is becoming crumbly.

Museum of Archaeology, Ulitsa Kaldayakov (near Dostyk Ave. M-F 09:00-18:00. Mammoths, dinosaurs and similar.

Museum of Rare Books, Ulitsa Shevchenko 28 (2 blocks north of Abay metro. The guided tour is recommended, not clear what languages are available. 100 tenge.

Geology Museum, 85 Dostyk Ave. M-F 10:00-17:00. Small museum of Kazakhstan's rich geology.

A. Kasteyev Art Museum, Ulitsa Satpaev (Metro Auezov Theater. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Huge collection spanning Oriental, Russian and Kazakh arts. The Stakhanovite scenes from Stalin's era are fascinating. 300 tenge.

Central State Museum, Prospekt Nazarbaeva (formerly Furmanov) (Opposite Presidential Palace, Metro 'Abay', +7 727 264 2680. W-M 09:30-17:30. Blue-roofed. Features displays on Kazakh history, from prehistoric times through the Mongol periods to the present. Guided tours in English (and other languages) are available if you call the museum ahead of time to reserve. Adult 500 tenge.

Museum of Kazakh Musical Instruments, Zenkov St (South of Gogol near Heroes Memorial Park. Tu-Su 10:00-19:00. Small museum with fine traditional facade; exhibits have descriptions in Kazakh, Russian and English. 500 tenge.

Railway Museum, Nazarbaeyev 127 (Metro Almaly. Small museum about the railways in Kazakhstan.

M. Auezov Literature Memorial House, Tulebaev street 187 (Opposite Abay metro. Daily 10:00-17:00. Mukhtar Auezov (1897-1961) was a distinguished Soviet / Kazakh playwright and novelist; he lived here for his last ten years. Atmospheric, but you'll need decent Russian to glean much. He's also commemorated further down the boulevard by the Auezov Theatre. 50 Tenge.

Heroes Memorial Park, Between Kunaev St, Gogol St, Zenkov St and Kazybek Bi St (Metro: Zhibek Zholy. Surrounding the Ascension or Zenkov Cathedral, this honors the men and women from Kazakhstan who died on the battlefields of WWII against the Nazis. There is an eternal flame by the war memorial where schoolchildren put flowers on the last day of school, and newlyweds have their photos taken there. Melodic singing descants from within the dolls' house cathedral.
Presidential Palace, Furmanov St (ул. Фурманова), 205. You will not be allowed to go inside. Nonetheless, the scenery and architecture is breathtaking. If the guards are out front, it means the president is there.
Republic Square. Former administrative center. Since the capital was moved to Astana, this square has been renovated. TV stations occupy some buildings. There are flower gardens. There is also a Kazakh memorial, consisting of a tall statue of the golden boy, an early Kazakh figure, whose name is Altyn Adam, and circled by metal bas relief panels recounting the history of Kazakhstan, from the time of the fierce Amazon-like queen, to independence 10 years ago.

Heroes Memorial Park, Between Kunaev St, Gogol St, Zenkov St and Kazybek Bi St (Metro: Zhibek Zholy. Surrounding the Ascension or Zenkov Cathedral, this honors the men and women from Kazakhstan who died on the battlefields of WWII against the Nazis. There is an eternal flame by the war memorial where schoolchildren put flowers on the last day of school, and newlyweds have their photos taken there. Melodic singing descants from within the dolls' house cathedral.

Presidential Palace, Furmanov St (ул. Фурманова), 205. You will not be allowed to go inside. Nonetheless, the scenery and architecture is breathtaking. If the guards are out front, it means the president is there.

Republic Square. Former administrative center. Since the capital was moved to [[Astana]], this square has been renovated. TV stations occupy some buildings. There are flower gardens. There is also a Kazakh memorial, consisting of a tall statue of the golden boy, an early Kazakh figure, whose name is Altyn Adam, and circled by metal bas relief panels recounting the history of Kazakhstan, from the time of the fierce Amazon-like queen, to independence 10 years ago.

Medeu Ice-skating

Arasan Baths, Kunaev St 75. Tu-Su 08:00 - 24:00. A large public bathing complex with a magnificent Samarkand style domed pool. The perfect place to spend a few hours relaxing. Due to its cold and windy conditions, visiting saunas with friends is very popular in Kazakhstan. Saunas (Russian "banyas") are an excellent place to discuss business issues or just socialize with friends. Having parties (birthdays, New Year, etc.) in saunas is normal practice. In fact many modern saunas in Almaty are fully equipped with karaoke, billiards, swimming pools, relax rooms, massage rooms, etc.
Kazakhstan English Language Theater, Ave Abay 2 or 30? (on the campus of KIMEP Institute in the heart of Almaty, Moscow Subway Station a couple meters away. Started in 2001, the Kazakhstan English Language Theater (KELT) is the only English language theater in former Soviet Central Asia. KELT does two shows a year, and runs English language theater classes and workshops periodically throughout the year.
Cable car to Kok-Tobe., fare 1000 tenge each way. The base station is by the corner of Abay and Dostyk. Nice views over the city & bosky burbs and towards the mountains. At the top station there's The Grill restaurant (good beer and shashliks, but you're paying for the view) and cafes. The top area is a kids' amusement park and "zoo", donkeys and hens being among the exotica. So it feels more like Sunday in the park than truly away from it all, and it's not a stepping stone into the mountains - Kok-Tobe hill stands apart from the main range, and the top is fenced in so you can't go off exploring.
Film Festival: is in mid-Sept, the next is expected to be 12-18 Sept 2020 but tbc. There is also a separate Indie film festival, next held on 5-8 Aug 2020.
Watch football ie soccer at FC Kairat, who play in the Premier League, the top tier of football in Kazakhstan. Their home ground is Central Stadium, capacity 24,000, on Abay Ave (Metro Baikonur / Stadion).

Route P22 (Dulati Street, becomes Svezhest St) runs south up the valley of River Bolshaya Almatinka. Along this route are Kok-Tobe, Tau Spa Centre, Alma-Arasan and Big Almaty Lake:
Tau Spa. Relax at this mountain spa, worth a visit summer or winter. Try the plunge pool at -15 degrees C!
Big Almaty Lake. is a scenic lake at 2510 m altitude, surrounded by high mountains. It glistens like a mirror, changing colour with the season (a deep turquoise in autumn), and freezing in winter. Towering over it to the south east is Soviet Peak (4317 m), to the south Ozerniy (4110 m), and to the southwest Tourist Peak (3954 m). Great for hiking and climbing. Getting here and back is obviously easiest by car, otherwise:
Bus 28 runs from the roundabout at Al-Farabi and Navoi up Dulati St and ends at the last left turn before Alma-Arasan. Taxis here will take you to within 4 km of the lake for around 2000 tenge. Otherwise it's a 15 km hike and 1000 m rise of altitude: think about the weather and the coming back. Follow the road about 8 km until you reach a big water pipe, and then follow the steep trail next to the water pipe.

Or take a taxi all the way from Al-Farabi and Navoi.
Dostyk Ave south becomes Gornaya St which climbs the valley of River Pravy Esentai. Along this valley are Medeu Ice Rink, Ile-Alatau National Park, and Chimbulak Ski resort. A bus runs up to Chimbulak from the corner of Satpaev and Baitursynuly daily at 08:00.
Medeu Ice Skating. The world's highest Olympic-sized ice stadium. More than 180 world records were made on this ice. Fun to visit in winter. Skate rentals are available. Tipsy teenagers teeter across the ice, coloured lights and loud pop music create a slightly surreal, but fun ambience. There is also a large mountain-water swimming pool just below the ice rink, open in summer. The water is extremely invigorating, about 15°C.
Ski & Snowboard at Chimbulak, Ak-Bulak and Tabagan ski resorts, open Nov-April, lifts closed Tuesday. And hike anytime, beyond the resort up to the dam and then the glacier: tough but beautiful.

Tau Spa. Relax at this mountain spa, worth a visit summer or winter. Try the plunge pool at -15 degrees C!

Big Almaty Lake. is a scenic lake at 2510 m altitude, surrounded by high mountains. It glistens like a mirror, changing colour with the season (a deep turquoise in autumn), and freezing in winter. Towering over it to the south east is Soviet Peak (4317 m), to the south Ozerniy (4110 m), and to the southwest Tourist Peak (3954 m). Great for hiking and climbing. Getting here and back is obviously easiest by car, otherwise:

Bus 28 runs from the roundabout at Al-Farabi and Navoi up Dulati St and ends at the last left turn before Alma-Arasan. Taxis here will take you to within 4 km of the lake for around 2000 tenge. Otherwise it's a 15 km hike and 1000 m rise of altitude: think about the weather and the coming back. Follow the road about 8 km until you reach a big water pipe, and then follow the steep trail next to the water pipe.

Or take a taxi all the way from Al-Farabi and Navoi.

Medeu Ice Skating. The world's highest Olympic-sized ice stadium. More than 180 world records were made on this ice. Fun to visit in winter. Skate rentals are available. Tipsy teenagers teeter across the ice, coloured lights and loud pop music create a slightly surreal, but fun ambience. There is also a large mountain-water swimming pool just below the ice rink, open in summer. The water is extremely invigorating, about 15°C.

Ski & Snowboard at [[Chimbulak]], Ak-Bulak and Tabagan ski resorts, open Nov-April, lifts closed Tuesday. And hike anytime, beyond the resort up to the dam and then the glacier: tough but beautiful.

Arasan Baths, Kunaev St 75. Tu-Su 08:00 - 24:00. A large public bathing complex with a magnificent Samarkand style domed pool. The perfect place to spend a few hours relaxing. Due to its cold and windy conditions, visiting saunas with friends is very popular in Kazakhstan. Saunas (Russian "banyas") are an excellent place to discuss business issues or just socialize with friends. Having parties (birthdays, New Year, etc.) in saunas is normal practice. In fact many modern saunas in Almaty are fully equipped with karaoke, billiards, swimming pools, relax rooms, massage rooms, etc.

Kazakhstan English Language Theater, Ave Abay 2 or 30? (on the campus of KIMEP Institute in the heart of Almaty, Moscow Subway Station a couple meters away. Started in 2001, the Kazakhstan English Language Theater (KELT) is the only English language theater in former Soviet Central Asia. KELT does two shows a year, and runs English language theater classes and workshops periodically throughout the year.

Cable car to Kok-Tobe., fare 1000 tenge each way. The base station is by the corner of Abay and Dostyk. Nice views over the city & bosky burbs and towards the mountains. At the top station there's The Grill restaurant (good beer and shashliks, but you're paying for the view) and cafes. The top area is a kids' amusement park and "zoo", donkeys and hens being among the exotica. So it feels more like Sunday in the park than truly away from it all, and it's not a stepping stone into the mountains - Kok-Tobe hill stands apart from the main range, and the top is fenced in so you can't go off exploring.

Film Festival: is in mid-Sept, the next is expected to be 12-18 Sept 2020 but tbc. There is also a separate Indie film festival, next held on 5-8 Aug 2020.

Watch football ie soccer at FC Kairat, who play in the Premier League, the top tier of football in Kazakhstan. Their home ground is Central Stadium, capacity 24,000, on Abay Ave (Metro Baikonur / Stadion).

Good buys:

Handmade carpets
Felted goods. Handmade dolls, rugs, and slippers made with boiled lamb's wool and natural dyes
Handcrafted metal jewelry, including a "tumar", which is a pendant that opens like a locket
Handcrafted leather chess sets in a leather folding case with a board pattern stitched on. In most souvenir shops, and on ground floor of Silk Way (Zhybek Zholy and Furmanova).

Arbat. Almaty's artists' row on a tree-lined pedestrian street. "Arbat" is a nickname of the street. On the same street you can visit the big mall - TsUM (in Russian - ЦУМ - Центральный Универсальный Магазин). At the east end of this pedestrian street there is the Silk Way Mall. Here you can find Wi-Fi Internet access at Cafemax on the second level (500 tenge for 100 min) and a selection of upscale shops. Most of these shops are imitations of Western chain stores such as Zara. They also imitate Western prices.
Barakholka. Cheap shopping at a large vendor-style market, find name brands (knock-offs) for cheap. You can find virtually anything there, and if the price isn't right, you can easily haggle with the merchants. You want to find a US$300 winter coat for about US$45? It's possible. Be wary of pick-pocketing.
Green Market, Zenkov Street (M: Zhibek Zholy (Жибек Жолы). Extensive market in a big lime-green concrete building. Fresh vegetables, dairy products, and meat, as well as clothing and other non-food household items. Fruit and vegetables are on the lower level. On the upper level you will find dried fruits, nuts, spices, honey and plants, as well as cheese and meat - you'll smell the meat counters long before you see them. Seasonal prices, relatively expensive by Central Asia standards, and don't plan on taking food items home or across any other border. And beware pickpockets!

Arbat. Almaty's artists' row on a tree-lined pedestrian street. "Arbat" is a nickname of the street. On the same street you can visit the big mall - TsUM (in Russian - ЦУМ - Центральный Универсальный Магазин). At the east end of this pedestrian street there is the Silk Way Mall. Here you can find Wi-Fi Internet access at Cafemax on the second level (500 tenge for 100 min) and a selection of upscale shops. Most of these shops are imitations of Western chain stores such as Zara. They also imitate Western prices.

Barakholka. Cheap shopping at a large vendor-style market, find name brands (knock-offs) for cheap. You can find virtually anything there, and if the price isn't right, you can easily haggle with the merchants. You want to find a US$300 winter coat for about US$45? It's possible. Be wary of pick-pocketing.

Green Market, Zenkov Street (M: Zhibek Zholy (Жибек Жолы). Extensive market in a big lime-green concrete building. Fresh vegetables, dairy products, and meat, as well as clothing and other non-food household items. Fruit and vegetables are on the lower level. On the upper level you will find dried fruits, nuts, spices, honey and plants, as well as cheese and meat - you'll smell the meat counters long before you see them. Seasonal prices, relatively expensive by Central Asia standards, and don't plan on taking food items home or across any other border. And beware pickpockets!

Almaty has many modern supermarkets, offering everything from a bakery section to toiletries and vodka. Any food you could possibly want to find is readily available. There are four major supermarket chains: Ramstore, SM-Market, Gros, and City. And plenty of single supermarkets and small local grocery shops. The chain called "Gros" has convenient locations around town and a good selection of drinks and snacks. Ramstore also has at least three locations, but is a bit pricier. The favorite stores among locals are Stolichni (Ablai Khan and Kabanbai Batyr). Super helpful staff and decent fruits and vegetables year around, but vegetable prices are very expensive. Dastarkhan (Gogolya St between Ablai Khan and Furmanova) has excellent baked goods, especially cakes and cookies.

Ramstore Atrium Supermarket Trade Center, Ul. Raiymbek Nauryzbai Batyr (Райымбек даңғылы) (Metro: Raiymbek batyr, +8 727 244-6556. Daily 09:00-23:00. International retail store chain.

Ramstore Atrium Supermarket Trade Center, Ul. Raiymbek Nauryzbai Batyr (Райымбек даңғылы) (Metro: Raiymbek batyr, +8 727 244-6556. Daily 09:00-23:00. International retail store chain.

Passage Shopping Center.
Tsum Shopping Center, Abylai Khan Avenue (M: Zhibek Zholy (Жибек Жолы). Every post-Soviet town has this department store. It's filled with hundreds of identical little counters selling electronic goods on the first floor, and souvenirs and clothes can be found on the second. There is a good selection of souvenirs. One Saturday a month, there is an ad hoc market on Ablai Khan across from the Tsum. Craftsmen from all over come and sell their wares. It's worth checking out.

Passage Shopping Center.

Tsum Shopping Center, Abylai Khan Avenue (M: Zhibek Zholy (Жибек Жолы). Every post-Soviet town has this department store. It's filled with hundreds of identical little counters selling electronic goods on the first floor, and souvenirs and clothes can be found on the second. There is a good selection of souvenirs. One Saturday a month, there is an ad hoc market on Ablai Khan across from the Tsum. Craftsmen from all over come and sell their wares. It's worth checking out.

Cheap Kazakh restaurants are all over the place, selling shashlik, soup, salad and others. Fast food places are also everywhere - the local favourite is hamburgers, with sliced kebab meat on a hamburger bun with pickles and garlic sauce.

Alasha, 20 Ostpanova. Daily 12:00-00:00. Uzbeki restaurant. Brace yourself for being sung at, danced at, and horse meat.
China Town, Mametova 47 (corner with Abylai Khan. Daily 10:00-00:00. A very cheap and very tasty Chinese eatery. Servings are huge, so don't go overboard. There are plenty of vegetarian dishes to choose from, including tofu dishes. Second location on Abay avenue still called Turandot. Opposite Lenore Pub.
Ciao Pizza, Tole Bi Street 92 / 543 (Next to Kazakh National Medical University. Daily 11:00-00:00. How would the city's young doctors survive without pizza?
Crudo Steakhouse, Abaya 17. Daily 12:00-00:00. Steakhouse, mixed reviews on food quality & value for money.
Gakku, 7 Nikitina St (Between Nauryzbay Batyr St and Seyfullin Ave. Daily 09:00-00:00. One of the best restaurants serving Kazakh national food for reasonable prices. Try "beshparmak", "kuyrdak" and other traditional dishes.
Korea, Baitursynov St 141 (off Satpaev St. M-F 11:00-00:00. May have moved, no recent reviews. Five other Korean restaurants within ten mins walk.
Mama Mia's, Gogol St (between Ablai Khan and Panfilova: Metro Zhibek Zholy. Daily 10:00-00:00. Pizza restaurant, but with a large assortment of fresh salads - a good place to go when you tire of carrots and potatoes in winter. Has a small, separate non-smoking section. On a fine day, order pizza to go, get soda & pastries at Dastarkhan opposite, then eat in Panfilov Park 300 m east.
Namaste, Satpaeva 30 / 3a (behind Kateyev Museum off Shagabuldinov. One of the more popular Indian restaurants. Service is very slow, but if you have time the food is pretty good.
Pirosmani, 32 Ablai Khan (One block south of Rayimbek. Daily 10:00-00:00. Georgian restaurant. Features khachapuri, cheese-filled bread, eggplant stuffed with nuts, spinach with nuts, and various savoury kebabs. Good vegetarian options.
Princess, 53 Tulebayeva (Corner of Gogolya, near Panfilov Park. Daily 12:00-00:00. Popular Chinese restaurant.
Soho, Kazybek Bi 65 / 107. M-Th 12:00-02:00, F 12:00-04:00, Sa 14:00-02:00. Lunch is a buffet with a nice assortment of breads, soups, salads, and main dishes called a "business lunch" at a reasonable fixed price. Evenings have live music and reasonable drink prices. No entrance fee during the week. Soho is a great place for a single businessman. It is not a very classy joint and is usually packed with Almaty's working women. They have one of the best bands in Almaty and they sing in English. Some of their covers are better than the originals. It's a must-see event. Try making a booking to avoid having to stand at the bar.
Tandoor, Tole bi 102. Daily 11:00-00:00. Good-value Indian food.
Tyubeteika, 32 Satpaeva. Daily 12:00-00:00. Uzbeki restaurant, gets good reviews.
Ultra's, 27a Satpaev (between Baitursynuly St & Seifullin Ave. Fun restaurant with its own microbrewery on site. It is one of the Staut chain. The restaurant has an excellent array of beer, albeit a little costly.
Venezia, 87a Dostyk Ave (between Satpaeva and Abaya. 24 / 7. Four pages of choices. The pizza has very good thin crust. The restaurant has two rooms.
Zheti Qazyna, 88 Makataev (corner with Ablai Khan Ave. The restaurant with three kitchens: Uzbek, Chinese, European. The Uzbek room has wonderful wood decorations, blue-tiled kitchen you can see into.

Alasha, 20 Ostpanova. Daily 12:00-00:00. Uzbeki restaurant. Brace yourself for being sung at, danced at, and horse meat.

China Town, Mametova 47 (corner with Abylai Khan. Daily 10:00-00:00. A very cheap and very tasty Chinese eatery. Servings are huge, so don't go overboard. There are plenty of vegetarian dishes to choose from, including tofu dishes. Second location on Abay avenue still called Turandot. Opposite Lenore Pub.

Ciao Pizza, Tole Bi Street 92 / 543 (Next to Kazakh National Medical University. Daily 11:00-00:00. How would the city's young doctors survive without pizza?

Crudo Steakhouse, Abaya 17. Daily 12:00-00:00. Steakhouse, mixed reviews on food quality & value for money.

Gakku, 7 Nikitina St (Between Nauryzbay Batyr St and Seyfullin Ave. Daily 09:00-00:00. One of the best restaurants serving Kazakh national food for reasonable prices. Try "beshparmak", "kuyrdak" and other traditional dishes.

Korea, Baitursynov St 141 (off Satpaev St. M-F 11:00-00:00. May have moved, no recent reviews. Five other Korean restaurants within ten mins walk.

Mama Mia's, Gogol St (between Ablai Khan and Panfilova: Metro Zhibek Zholy. Daily 10:00-00:00. Pizza restaurant, but with a large assortment of fresh salads - a good place to go when you tire of carrots and potatoes in winter. Has a small, separate non-smoking section. On a fine day, order pizza to go, get soda & pastries at Dastarkhan opposite, then eat in Panfilov Park 300 m east.

Namaste, Satpaeva 30 / 3a (behind Kateyev Museum off Shagabuldinov. One of the more popular Indian restaurants. Service is very slow, but if you have time the food is pretty good.

Pirosmani, 32 Ablai Khan (One block south of Rayimbek. Daily 10:00-00:00. Georgian restaurant. Features khachapuri, cheese-filled bread, eggplant stuffed with nuts, spinach with nuts, and various savoury kebabs. Good vegetarian options.

Princess, 53 Tulebayeva (Corner of Gogolya, near Panfilov Park. Daily 12:00-00:00. Popular Chinese restaurant.

Soho, Kazybek Bi 65 / 107. M-Th 12:00-02:00, F 12:00-04:00, Sa 14:00-02:00. Lunch is a buffet with a nice assortment of breads, soups, salads, and main dishes called a "business lunch" at a reasonable fixed price. Evenings have live music and reasonable drink prices. No entrance fee during the week. Soho is a great place for a single businessman. It is not a very classy joint and is usually packed with Almaty's working women. They have one of the best bands in Almaty and they sing in English. Some of their covers are better than the originals. It's a must-see event. Try making a booking to avoid having to stand at the bar.

Tandoor, Tole bi 102. Daily 11:00-00:00. Good-value Indian food.

Tyubeteika, 32 Satpaeva. Daily 12:00-00:00. Uzbeki restaurant, gets good reviews.

Ultra's, 27a Satpaev (between Baitursynuly St & Seifullin Ave. Fun restaurant with its own microbrewery on site. It is one of the Staut chain. The restaurant has an excellent array of beer, albeit a little costly.

Venezia, 87a Dostyk Ave (between Satpaeva and Abaya. 24 / 7. Four pages of choices. The pizza has very good thin crust. The restaurant has two rooms.

Zheti Qazyna, 88 Makataev (corner with Ablai Khan Ave. The restaurant with three kitchens: Uzbek, Chinese, European. The Uzbek room has wonderful wood decorations, blue-tiled kitchen you can see into.

Barmaglot Bar, 3 Satpaev Ave, +7 777 825 3030. Tu-Su 17:00-03:00. For evening drinks.
Resto Bar 111, Samal-2, Dostyk Ave, +7 702 777 4111. Daily 12:00-01:00. Gastro-pub, mixed reviews.
The Monkey, Dostyk Ave 192/2, 12th floor of business center. Daily 12:00-02:00. Lounge bar & restaurant.

Barmaglot Bar, 3 Satpaev Ave, +7 777 825 3030. Tu-Su 17:00-03:00. For evening drinks.

Resto Bar 111, Samal-2, Dostyk Ave, +7 702 777 4111. Daily 12:00-01:00. Gastro-pub, mixed reviews.

The Monkey, Dostyk Ave 192/2, 12th floor of business center. Daily 12:00-02:00. Lounge bar & restaurant.

Free wifi is common in hotels but it may be unreliable. Some bars and restaurants offer free wifi.

Internet. Eight computers and a telephone service but you can't use USB devices. 240 tenge/hr.
Internet. 240 tenge/hr.
Supermarket, Samal-3 micro-district, Online Club (Silk Way City. There is free Wi-Fi inside the supermarket. Best signal is on second floor in the middle.

Internet. Eight computers and a telephone service but you can't use USB devices. 240 tenge/hr.

Internet. 240 tenge/hr.

Supermarket, Samal-3 micro-district, Online Club (Silk Way City. There is free Wi-Fi inside the supermarket. Best signal is on second floor in the middle.

Almaty enjoys a relatively low crime rate and is, generally, a safe place to travel. Use common sense at night, particularly on Friday and Saturday when the youth hit the streets to get drunk, and in some unfortunate cases, look for trouble. You should abstain from any arguments with locals; otherwise you may end up in the hospital. Kazakh people are extremely friendly and welcoming towards foreigners and nothing should happen to you unless you really want it yourself. Never go to places which you don't trust or don't know about, unless you have a local person with you to help out with the language. Racism is a generally of very minor concern although the average visitor is highly unlikely to encounter any problems. You must be always respectful to the country and locals. In this case, you will feel comfortable with anyone.

Central streets such as Furmanov, Abay, Zheltoksan, Dostyk, and Abylay Khan are strictly regulated and constantly monitored by police officers. Video cameras are installed on 70% of city crossroads. There are some Kazakh drivers who reveal their aggressiveness on the roads. Therefore, it is always best to take great care when crossing the roads.

In the event of an emergency, call:

101 Fire
102 Police
103 Ambulance
104 Gas Service
112 Emergency rescue

101 Fire

102 Police

103 Ambulance

104 Gas Service

112 Emergency rescue

Very few western visitors nowadays need to register upon arrival, and for those who do, your hotel will usually sort it for you. But a few will have to attend OVIR in person, e.g. if you hope to stay longer than 30 days.

OVIR (Migration Police), +7 727-2544132. M–F 09:00–18:00, Sa 09:00–13:00, Passport collection: 17:00–19:00. Enter the side door through the blue porch and go to Window 3. The building is marked "Migration Police" on Google Maps. You need photocopies of your passport photo-page and your Kazakh visas as well as your accommodation's address. You can drop off your passport (copies not accepted, nor letters from embassies confirming that they are holding your passport) with these documents in the morning, and they will ask you to return later in the day to pick it up.

China China, 12 Baitasov St (east end of Satpaev, +7 727 2700207. M, W, F, 09:00-12:00. Will only accept visa requests from citizens or residents of Kazakhstan, ie those with a work, student, or residence visa. Non-residents might be able to apply through some of the nearby travel agents, but don't count on it. An urgent visa, issued in 4 days, costs US$ 80.
India India, 115 Kazyibek Bi (between Seyfullin & Nauryzbai Batyr, +7 727 3388646, +7 727 3388642. M-F 10:00-15:00.
United States United States, Zholdasbekov Street (Between Nazarbayev and Dostyk. M-F 09:00-18:00.
Uzbekistan Uzbekistan, 360 Zhakarov St, +7 7272 91 17 44. This looks to be in the throes of closing down (and there's no longer an embassy on Barybayeva), as most visitors to Uzbekistan no longer need visas. Hours, prices & procedures all seem makeshift, best phone ahead to check they're still there.
Almaty also has embassies or consulates (as of Oct 2019) for Australia, Bulgaria, France, Germany, Hungary, India, Iran, Japan, Lithuania, Switzerland, Tajikstan, Thailand, and United Kingdom. It's not known what services these nowadays provide, since the capital has moved to Nur-Sultan.

China China, 12 Baitasov St (east end of Satpaev, +7 727 2700207. M, W, F, 09:00-12:00. Will only accept visa requests from citizens or residents of Kazakhstan, ie those with a work, student, or residence visa. Non-residents might be able to apply through some of the nearby travel agents, but don't count on it. An urgent visa, issued in 4 days, costs US$ 80.

India India, 115 Kazyibek Bi (between Seyfullin & Nauryzbai Batyr, +7 727 3388646, +7 727 3388642. M-F 10:00-15:00.

United States United States, Zholdasbekov Street (Between Nazarbayev and Dostyk. M-F 09:00-18:00.

Uzbekistan Uzbekistan, 360 Zhakarov St, +7 7272 91 17 44. This looks to be in the throes of closing down (and there's no longer an embassy on Barybayeva), as most visitors to Uzbekistan no longer need visas. Hours, prices & procedures all seem makeshift, best phone ahead to check they're still there.

Sharyn Canyon

Winter sports & hiking around nearby Chimbulak, Ak-Bulak and Tabagan ski resorts; an easy day-trip.
Sharyn Canyon (Шарын шатқалы, Шарын каньоны): Canyon 80 km long and as much as 300 m deep, eroded into fantastical shapes, especially along the 3 km stretch known as "Valley of the Castles". It's 200 km east of Almaty towards the Chinese border (follow A351) and often done as a day-trip, but longer tours of the area are recommended. Not far from the "Singing Dunes".
Nur-Sultan (formerly Astana) is the new showcase capital, and while Almaty feels like a Russian city, Nur-Sultan has more of a mixture of cultures.
Lake Balkhash is along the road between Almaty and Nur-Sultan, so you could break the long journey here. Balkhash village (12 hours by bus) has a few hotels. The lake is salty west of here, but fresh to the east where the river flows in from China. It's the closest you'll get to beach action in this very land-locked country.
Bishkek the capital of Kyrgyzstan is a 4-5 hr drive. From there see Lake Issyk-Kul.
Tamgaly Petroglyphs ("Temple of The Sun"): This UNESCO site is 2-3 hours away by car (170 km west, 30 km past Copa off the road to Bishkek). The petroglyphs range from ancient (3,000 years) to "modern" (75 years), and feature pictures of the Sunman and hunting nomad tribes. There are also several grave sites. Watch out for snakes when it's hot.
Turgen Gorge. In the national preserve or Ile-Alatau, 90 km east of Almaty. The gorge is some 44 m deep, with hot springs, waterfalls, and forests: these include the last stands of Chim-Turgen moss fir woods that once carpeted the area.
Kolsai Lakes. Beautiful lakes 250 km east of Almaty. The first lake can be reached by car, to see the other lakes you have to hire a horse. You can stay overnight in a small two storey house for about 2,000–5,000 tenge per night. The lake water is fresh, clean and drinkable.
Urumqi in China can be reached by train once or twice a week.

Winter sports & hiking around nearby [[Chimbulak]], Ak-Bulak and Tabagan ski resorts; an easy day-trip.

[[Sharyn Canyon]] (Шарын шатқалы, Шарын каньоны): Canyon 80 km long and as much as 300 m deep, eroded into fantastical shapes, especially along the 3 km stretch known as "Valley of the Castles". It's 200 km east of Almaty towards the Chinese border (follow A351) and often done as a day-trip, but longer tours of the area are recommended. Not far from the "Singing Dunes".

[[Nur-Sultan]] (formerly Astana) is the new showcase capital, and while Almaty feels like a Russian city, Nur-Sultan has more of a mixture of cultures.

Lake Balkhash is along the road between Almaty and Nur-Sultan, so you could break the long journey here. Balkhash village (12 hours by bus) has a few hotels. The lake is salty west of here, but fresh to the east where the river flows in from China. It's the closest you'll get to beach action in this very land-locked country.

[[Bishkek]] the capital of Kyrgyzstan is a 4-5 hr drive. From there see Lake Issyk-Kul.

Tamgaly Petroglyphs ("Temple of The Sun"): This [[UNESCO]] site is 2-3 hours away by car (170 km west, 30 km past Copa off the road to Bishkek). The petroglyphs range from ancient (3,000 years) to "modern" (75 years), and feature pictures of the Sunman and hunting nomad tribes. There are also several grave sites. Watch out for snakes when it's hot.

Turgen Gorge. In the national preserve or Ile-Alatau, 90 km east of Almaty. The gorge is some 44 m deep, with hot springs, waterfalls, and forests: these include the last stands of Chim-Turgen moss fir woods that once carpeted the area.

Kolsai Lakes. Beautiful lakes 250 km east of Almaty. The first lake can be reached by car, to see the other lakes you have to hire a horse. You can stay overnight in a small two storey house for about 2,000–5,000 tenge per night. The lake water is fresh, clean and drinkable.

[[Urumqi]] in China can be reached by train once or twice a week.