Papeete

French_Polynesia

Paofai gardens Papeete is the largest city in and capital of French Polynesia on the island of Tahiti.

Papeete is not a tropical paradise. It is a typical government center and industrial port with small doses of French and Polynesian charm. It has shopping, eating, and drinking, but very little sightseeing for a capital city and even fewer top-class hotels. The residents speak French and Tahitian, although English is spoken by many in the tourist trade. The people-watching is superb.

Waterfront

  • The waterfront. Papeete has redeveloped its waterfront into a long park, with foods and carnival-like attractions.
  • Robert Wan Pearl Museum, 56 Avenue du Commandant Destremau, +689 40 46 15 55. A museum displaying exhibits on pearl farming and the history of pearls on one side and a pearl shop on the other. Free.
  • Assembly of French Polynesia, 21 Rue du Dr Cassiau at Rue du General de Gaulle. Small but beautiful gardens around a pond. Plaques tell the history of the site as a royal palace, and of the plant life in the garden. Free.

The waterfront. Papeete has redeveloped its waterfront into a long park, with foods and carnival-like attractions.

Robert Wan Pearl Museum, 56 Avenue du Commandant Destremau, +689 40 46 15 55. A museum displaying exhibits on pearl farming and the history of pearls on one side and a pearl shop on the other. Free.

Assembly of French Polynesia, 21 Rue du Dr Cassiau at Rue du General de Gaulle. Small but beautiful gardens around a pond. Plaques tell the history of the site as a royal palace, and of the plant life in the garden. Free.

Black pearls abound. There is just about every kind of store here, including some (particularly near the Marché) who have no problem selling you imitation balls of black glass or fiberglass at market prices. Be sure to look for a certificate of authenticity on the wall of the shop, and trust your guidebook for recommendations.

Eating out can be very expensive. There are some fine restaurants but expect to pay US$30 for a hamburger at a hotel restaurant or other proper sit-down establishment.

There are a lot of midrange places where you can expect to pay US$20-30 for your whole meal. French and Chinese cuisines are well represented here. Look for the word "Snack" in the name of the restaurant. There is also a conveyor belt sushi place that's very good, and the chefs are quite friendly there.

  • The best deal in town is the roulottes, the food trucks that set up shop every evening in the big square in the waterfront park. Every day they begin setting up around dusk. Chinese, French, and Tahitian cuisine are all well represented. You can get chow mein, poisson cru, crepes, pizza, ice cream, and because this is France, everything comes with bread. Expect to pay 1500-2000 F for your meal, although you can get a couple of crepes and a drink for 1000-1200 F (Jan 2019).
  • Food stands in the public market (marché) will charge 700-900 F for a Chinese fish with rice, and there are lots of baguette sandwiches available.
  • l’O à la Bouche, BP 343, +689 40 45 29 76. French with a Polynesian twist. The interior is a bit dark.

The best deal in town is the roulottes, the food trucks that set up shop every evening in the big square in the waterfront park. Every day they begin setting up around dusk. Chinese, French, and Tahitian cuisine are all well represented. You can get chow mein, poisson cru, crepes, pizza, ice cream, and because this is France, everything comes with bread. Expect to pay 1500-2000 F for your meal, although you can get a couple of crepes and a drink for 1000-1200 F (Jan 2019).

Food stands in the public market (marché) will charge 700-900 F for a Chinese fish with rice, and there are lots of baguette sandwiches available.

l’O à la Bouche, BP 343, +689 40 45 29 76. French with a Polynesian twist. The interior is a bit dark.

You can expect to pay upwards of US$10 for a pint of beer. A (small) jug of microbrew will run you US$35. Buy pitchers of Hinano to keep the costs down.

  • Chaplain's. The decor is a tribute to silent film star Charles Chaplin. Expect loud French rap. Keep an eye on your tab.
  • Mana Rock Cafe. This open-air pub is a good place to sit outside in the shade and have a cold beer on a hot afternoon.
  • Les 3 Brasseurs. The only microbrewery in French Polynesia. The beer is certainly better than Hinano, but you do pay a premium for it, and it pales in comparison to U.S. microbrews. US$35 for a 3.5 L glass jug.
  • That tiki-bar near Les 3 Brasseurs. Its name doesn't really matter; it's the only other bar along this stretch. Some sidewalk seating and very limited indoor seating. There's a sweet little dog that hangs out here. If you pet her, she will bark at anybody who gives you trouble for the rest of the night. Also remember to tip the bouncer extra when you want to get into the bar's "underground" club every night.

Chaplain's. The decor is a tribute to silent film star Charles Chaplin. Expect loud French rap. Keep an eye on your tab.

Mana Rock Cafe. This open-air pub is a good place to sit outside in the shade and have a cold beer on a hot afternoon.

Les 3 Brasseurs. The only microbrewery in French Polynesia. The beer is certainly better than Hinano, but you do pay a premium for it, and it pales in comparison to U.S. microbrews. US$35 for a 3.5 L glass jug.

That tiki-bar near Les 3 Brasseurs. Its name doesn't really matter; it's the only other bar along this stretch. Some sidewalk seating and very limited indoor seating. There's a sweet little dog that hangs out here. If you pet her, she will bark at anybody who gives you trouble for the rest of the night. Also remember to tip the bouncer extra when you want to get into the bar's "underground" club every night.

See #Get in.

If you have the time, take the ferry over to Moorea.