Sehwan

Pakistan

A view of the shrine from inside showing the resting place of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar A view of the beautiful shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar early in the morning Sehwan is one of the oldest towns of the province of Sindh, in Pakistan. It is highly respected in interior Sindh, well known for the resting place of the great mystic poet, saint and scholar, Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, who lived here in 13th century. The famous and beautiful shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar attracts thousands of faithful devotees throughout the year, especially during the annual Urs, making it an important pilgrimage site both for Muslims and Hindus.

It is possible that the name Sehwan originates from "Siwistan" or "Seevistan", the kingdom of Raja Dahir which even extended to Punjab under the name "Shivi". Sehwan was significant enough during the 8th century to be conquered by Muhammad bin Qasim in 711, and two centuries later by Mahmud of Ghazni. An abortive attempt was made by the Mughal emperor Humayun to capture it on his way to Umarkot but it finally fell to his son Akbar. Before this, it was the capital of the Thatta Kingdom under Juni Bek.

Today, Sehwan, popularly known as Sehwan Sharif is known throughout Pakistan due to being the location of shrine of Sufi patron saint Syed Usman Marwandi (born in Marand, Iran in 1117 - 1274) popularly known as Lal Shahbaz Qalandar who preached religious tolerance among people of many religious particularly Muslims and Hindus and therefore his mysticism attracted people from many religions. He was called Lal (red) after his usual red attire, Shahbaz to denote a noble and divine spirit, and Qalandar for his Sufi affiliation.

Shahbaz's dedication to the knowledge about various religious disciplines, enabled him to become a profound scholar, eventually. He became fluent in many languages, including, Pashto, Persian, Turkish, Arabic, Sindhi and Sanskrit. Lal Shahbaz lived a celibate life and died in the year 1274 at the age of 97.

  • Shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar. 24 hour open. The famous and beautiful shrine was built in 1356 and decorated with Sindhi 'kashi-tiles', mirror work and a gold-plated door which were donated by the late Shah of Iran, Reza Shah Pahlavi. The inner sanctum is about 100 square yards with a silver-canopied grave in the middle; on one side of the marble floor is a row of about 12-inch-high (300 mm) folding wooden stands, on which there is a set copies of Quran for devotees to read. On the other side, beside a bundle of incense, are rows of oil-lamps lighted by devotees. Dhamal, unique dance form performed every Thursday evening.
  • Urs of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar. During the Urs celebrations (18th Shahban - the eighth Islamic lunar month), devotees dance rhythmically and with total abandon to the beat of drums (Naqqara Dhamal), finally ending in a spiritual trance. Sehwan becomes the focal point of more than half a million pilgrims from all over the country during the annual Urs. The streets of Sewhan are packed to capacity, as pilgrims, fakirs (dervish) and devotees make their way to the shrine, to commune with the saint, offer tributes and make wishes. The devotional dance known as ‘dhamal’, an ecstatic swirl of the head and body, is performed to the rhythm of the naqqara, a big barrel-shaped drum, some of giant size and placed in the courtyard of the shrine. Everybody is singing and dancing in praise of the saint, till late-night. Bells, gongs, cymbals and horns make a thunderous din, and the dervishes in robes, beads, bracelets and colored head-bands whirl faster and faster until, with a final deafening shout, they run out into the courtyard.
  • Sehwan Museum. A small museum dedicated to life of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar.

Shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar. 24 hour open. The famous and beautiful shrine was built in 1356 and decorated with Sindhi 'kashi-tiles', mirror work and a gold-plated door which were donated by the late Shah of Iran, Reza Shah Pahlavi. The inner sanctum is about 100 square yards with a silver-canopied grave in the middle; on one side of the marble floor is a row of about 12-inch-high (300 mm) folding wooden stands, on which there is a set copies of Quran for devotees to read. On the other side, beside a bundle of incense, are rows of oil-lamps lighted by devotees. Dhamal, unique dance form performed every Thursday evening.

Urs of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar. During the Urs celebrations (18th Shahban - the eighth Islamic lunar month), devotees dance rhythmically and with total abandon to the beat of drums (Naqqara Dhamal), finally ending in a spiritual trance. Sehwan becomes the focal point of more than half a million pilgrims from all over the country during the annual Urs. The streets of Sewhan are packed to capacity, as pilgrims, fakirs (dervish) and devotees make their way to the shrine, to commune with the saint, offer tributes and make wishes. The devotional dance known as ‘dhamal’, an ecstatic swirl of the head and body, is performed to the rhythm of the naqqara, a big barrel-shaped drum, some of giant size and placed in the courtyard of the shrine. Everybody is singing and dancing in praise of the saint, till late-night. Bells, gongs, cymbals and horns make a thunderous din, and the dervishes in robes, beads, bracelets and colored head-bands whirl faster and faster until, with a final deafening shout, they run out into the courtyard.

Sehwan Museum. A small museum dedicated to life of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar.

A view of colourful Shahi Bazaar of Sehwan The Shahi bazaar of Sehwan is a long alleyway houses plenty of shop. The bazaar is the only marketplace of Sehwan and can be good place to hunt down the Sindhi handicraft and souvenirs. The bazaar is considered the oldest bazaar and surely gives a good example of a traditional bazaars of the region and worth to take a stroll. Open in the morning at around 9AM and closes at night.

There's a small market outside the shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar which remains open 24 hours sell sweet candies, dry fruit, garlands and green chadar (shawl)"

Shops selling dry fruit just outside the shrine. Buy some and present to visitors inside the shrine There're many basic restaurants scattered throughout in this small town of Sehwan, all severing basic Pakistani food although not all are hygienic. Expect to pay minimum Rs 200 for a single dish wherever and whatever you eat. Restaurants outside the shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar remains open 24 hours.

  • Lajpal Restaurant. A hygienic and clean restaurant. A dish of Karahi either Chicken or Mutton and Daal(pulses) is a must try. Have both non-airconditoned and air-conditioned sitting area.
  • Sehwan Restaurant, Sehwan Bypass Rd (behind Sehwan CNG Station, Opp New Bus Stop, +92 25 4007299. Recently opened located on N-55 is the ideal for eating in town however costly. Serve both Pakistani and Chinese dishes. Serve some delicious Bar B Q dishes in outdoor dining area as well have indoor air-conditioned lounges.

Lajpal Restaurant. A hygienic and clean restaurant. A dish of Karahi either Chicken or Mutton and Daal(pulses) is a must try. Have both non-airconditoned and air-conditioned sitting area.

Sehwan Restaurant, Sehwan Bypass Rd (behind Sehwan CNG Station, Opp New Bus Stop, +92 25 4007299. Recently opened located on N-55 is the ideal for eating in town however costly. Serve both Pakistani and Chinese dishes. Serve some delicious Bar B Q dishes in outdoor dining area as well have indoor air-conditioned lounges.