Nukus is a city in Qaraqalpakistan, Uzbekistan. It is the capital of the region. However, even by Uzbek standards the town is fairly decrepit and most travellers only stay one night in order to see the Savitsky gallery. Despite this, the locals are a friendly lot. Learn a few words of Qaraqalpaq and you'll be rewarded with delighted smiles.
- Karakalpak Museum of Arts, K. Rzaev St, +998 61 222 2556. M-F 09:00-13:00 14:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-16:00. Do not miss the Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art's Igor Savitsky Collection with its unique collection of many thousands of works by dissenting artists from the Soviet Union during the period in which Stalinist socialist realism was the only permitted form of Soviet art. The documentary film The Desert of Forbidden Art is all about the collection and its history. Many travellers believe this is the only compelling reason to visit Nukus. The Savitsky Collection is often singled out by locals as the best museum in Uzbekistan. 25,000 som (students: 15,000 som).
Nearby is the Museum of Applied Arts showing local fabrics, traditional clothing and jewelry. The Karakalpak State Museum exhibits examples of natural history, including the very last Turan Tiger, caught in 1972.
Karakalpak Museum of Arts, K. Rzaev St, +998 61 222 2556. M-F 09:00-13:00 14:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-16:00. Do not miss the Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art's Igor Savitsky Collection with its unique collection of many thousands of works by dissenting artists from the Soviet Union during the period in which Stalinist socialist realism was the only permitted form of Soviet art. The documentary film The Desert of Forbidden Art is all about the collection and its history. Many travellers believe this is the only compelling reason to visit Nukus. The Savitsky Collection is often singled out by locals as the best museum in Uzbekistan. 25,000 som (students: 15,000 som).
Due to being the closest major city to the Aral Sea, Nukus is a good place to start trips to the shore and to Moynoq. The former fishing town is some 200 km away and a witness of the dying Aral Sea. Its main "attraction" is the infamous ship graveyard.
A taxi from Nukus to Moynaq costs around US$70, asking price in Hotels is around US$100. For a day trip, start early as it is 3-3½ hr one way. Marshrutkas also go to Moynaq via Kungrad.
There is a huge sprawling market near the bus station, selling the usual range of cheap consumer goods, clothing and food. Most of it is under cover and hence not a bad place to wander during the heat of the day. Armed with a camera and a polite 'Mogu li ya snyatʹ vashu fotografiyu?' (may I take your photograph) you can get some very atmospheric pictures.
There are no ATMs in the city, arrive armed with enough US dollars to change. Some places will try to rip you off but it is possible to get very good exchange rates by asking around.
There are few options in town - both the Mona Lisa, and the Sheraton restaurants, listed in a popular guidebook, have shut or never existed. Searching around you will find acceptable kebab places, such as the one just east of the Savitsky museum (42°27'54.03"N, 59°37'11.17"E, on the corner of Rashidova & Dosnazarov).
"Samsa" are popular, samosa-type pastries filled with ground beef and onions. 1500-3000 som and they're rather filling. For a meat-free option, some places sell slightly cheaper potato versions, ask for "kartoshka samsa".
Qaraqalpak plov is the unofficial national dish of the region and delicious, especially when homemade. Usually made with chicken.
Perhaps unexpectedly, kimchi is very popular with the locals. Find it at the main fruit and vegetable market. A large Korean community was resettled in Nukus after the second world war and now comprises ~20% of the whole population of the city.
Find some "Qarataw" brand vodka. Local to Qaraqalpaqstan and even difficult to find outside of the region, it's smooth and complex, and the Qaraqalpaks are rightly proud of it.
If looking for taxi to the dying Aral Sea, you may contact +99861 7178779.
Uzbekistan Airways operates flights to
- Moscow Domodedovo International Airport on M
- Tashkent
Shared taxis from the South Bus Station leave to
- Urgench US$10-12 per seat, 2 hrs