Abidjan

Serving as the capital from 1933 until 1983, Abidjan is the biggest and most important city of Cote d'Ivoire. With a population of around 4,000,000 people, it is the second largest city in West Africa after Lagos and has historically been the economic power base of the region.

Following the death of long term president-for-life Felix Houphouët Boigny in 1993, the fortunes for Abidjan changed a great deal and successive coups d'etats in Cote d'Ivoire caused a massive exodus of the foreigners living there. Today, despite the current political issues in Cote d'Ivoire at large, Abidjan remains the economic and de facto capital of the country. Even after everything that's happened, it still boasts a large selection of restaurants, hotels, sites, and other reasons to visit. For those traveling through West Africa, it is a must-see city with one of the liveliest night scenes to be found for 1,000 km.

Abidjan is sometimes referred to as the "Paris of West Africa". During the long and stable rule of the Ivory Coast's Godfather Felix Huphouet-Boigny the city of Abidjan has flourished. However, the political instability and the civil war of the past decade have taken their toll on the city. Neglect, low maintenance of buildings and public space and the mass exodus of foreigners have given the city an atmosphere of "lost glory". Nowhere is this to be seen better than in the famous Hotel Ivoire. Entering it is like taking a trip to the 1960s; since its construction there have been no significant changes or modernisation to its interior and furniture. Too bad though that its massive swimming pool has weeds growing on the bottom instead of blue waters.

The public zoo is very nice. It really is a beautiful place with loads of interesting animals for just CFA 200, well worth this small sum. Also don't forget a trip to Bassam, Abidjan's no. 1 beach.

• National Museum, 32 Boulevard Carde, +225 20 222056.
• St Paul's Cathedral.
• National Library of Côte d'Ivoire, Boulevard Carde.
• Cocody Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art.
• Banco National Park. A 30 km² national park just north of Abidjan featuring many tropical rare woods (mahogany, avodirés, waffle wood and more). There are several walking paths and popular for trekking.

National Museum, 32 Boulevard Carde, +225 20 222056.

St Paul's Cathedral.

National Library of Côte d'Ivoire, Boulevard Carde.

Cocody Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art.

Banco National Park. A 30 km² national park just north of Abidjan featuring many tropical rare woods (mahogany, avodirés, waffle wood and more). There are several walking paths and popular for trekking.

There are many places to eat Ivorian food, most of them on the sidewalk or on a small road side terrace. Make sure that you ask about the price before you sit down, in order to avoid lengthy discussions about the price when they try to overcharge you after the meal. The staple foods in the Ivory Coast are rice, cassava, yam and bread. Bread is usually eaten at breakfast or as a supplement to the meal. The cassava (manioc) can be eaten cooked whole, as a mash called plakali, mixed with banana (foutou) or in crums (atchiki). Fish is usually the cheapest meal. European cuisine can be found in the wealthier neighbourhoods such as Plateau, Cocody, Deux Plateaux and Zone 4.

• Restaurant des Combattants, +225 20 224742. Situated in a large colonial villa in the Plateau district, this popular restaurant features traditional African cuisine.
• Chez Georges Hollywood, rue du commerce, plateau, +225 20 32 19 84. Su-F 11:30-22:30, Sa 18:30-22:30. French and Italian dishes at French prices in a formal setting. Free Wi-Fi.
• Saarkan, Avenue Chardy face à l'AIP, à la descente de Radio Nostalgie Plateau (On Plateau, near the highway on the eastern side of the peninsula., +225 20 32 13 58. Ouvert du lundi au jeudi de 11h30 à 15h et 18h à 23h. Ouvert le samedi de 18h à 23h.. The restaurant serves Ivorien food with a modern feel. There is a full bar. The menu includes an inexpensive, light vegetarian dish of tofu in peanut sauce with rice and spinach. Delivery is available through Hellofood, where the menu is also listed. 6000-12 000 CFA.

Restaurant des Combattants, +225 20 224742. Situated in a large colonial villa in the Plateau district, this popular restaurant features traditional African cuisine.

Chez Georges Hollywood, rue du commerce, plateau, +225 20 32 19 84. Su-F 11:30-22:30, Sa 18:30-22:30. French and Italian dishes at French prices in a formal setting. Free Wi-Fi.

Saarkan, Avenue Chardy face à l'AIP, à la descente de Radio Nostalgie Plateau (On Plateau, near the highway on the eastern side of the peninsula., +225 20 32 13 58. Ouvert du lundi au jeudi de 11h30 à 15h et 18h à 23h. Ouvert le samedi de 18h à 23h.. The restaurant serves Ivorien food with a modern feel. There is a full bar. The menu includes an inexpensive, light vegetarian dish of tofu in peanut sauce with rice and spinach. Delivery is available through Hellofood, where the menu is also listed. 6000-12 000 CFA.

The number one place to go out at night in Abidjan is Princess Road in Yopougon. There are many bars to just relax and drink and also loads of dancing with live music or deejays. Don't forget to order some fried spicy chicken; they prepare it for you right on the street!

There are a number of issues that plague Abidjan, which are indicative of the overall problems that Cote d'Ivoire is experiencing. First and foremost are the military checkpoints. While generally harmless for foreigners, they can make it maddening to get across the city in a timely fashion, especially if one is in a private care. Bribes are commonplace, but not an absolute. Carrying small bills is always a good idea. Otherwise, just agreeing with the officer bothering you is the best course of action. If you're respectful, they'll usually let you be, unless you are French, in which case you will be hassled a good deal more due to the Ivorians having heavy disdain for French involvement in their country.

Also if in a private car, you'll notice that most people roll through red lights late at night. While illegal, there have been incidents of carjackings when people are stopped, so heed this warning as you see best.

Something else to keep in mind is that Cote d'Ivoire literally shuts down at midnight until 05:00. As a remnant of a curfew imposed during the last civil war, they barricade all the main points of entry and exit to all the towns. If you find yourself on the wrong side of that barricade when it is closed (such as staying in Bassam, but partying in Abidjan) you will absolutely not be let through until 05:00.

Pickpockets are a problem in crowded places much like anywhere else in the world. Keep track of your personal items and make sure your bags are well closed when passing through busy bus stations or markets.

While the most lively of neighborhoods, places such as Koumassi, Treichville, and Yopougon are probably best avoided unless going there with a local. Yopougon is undoubtedly the safest with the most impressive assortment of street food, but there can also be young, drunken men in these areas who can be looking for trouble. That said, if you're not starting the trouble and try to defuse the situation, you'll probably not have any issues as people in Abidjan are used to an international crowd in their city.

Women should not go out unaccompanied at night. During the day, you'll have no problems. Ivorian society is most definitely patriarchal, but at the same time, the men are respectful of international women and at times maybe a bit too respectful, giving you a lot more attention than you'd like. If you receive unwanted advances, just do as the local girls do and firmly tell them you're not interested. They'll eventually get the point or move on to other women to "charm".

• Canada Canada.
• United Kingdom United Kingdom, Ambassade de Grande-Bretagne, Cocody Quartier Ambassades, Impasse du Belier, Rue A 58, 01 BP 2581, Abidjan 01, Abidjan 01 BP 2581, Cote d’Ivoire, +225 2244 2669.
• United States United States, 01 B.P. 1712 Abidjan 01 Côte d'Ivoire, +225 22 49 40 00.

Canada Canada.

United Kingdom United Kingdom, Ambassade de Grande-Bretagne, Cocody Quartier Ambassades, Impasse du Belier, Rue A 58, 01 BP 2581, Abidjan 01, Abidjan 01 BP 2581, Cote d’Ivoire, +225 2244 2669.

United States United States, 01 B.P. 1712 Abidjan 01 Côte d'Ivoire, +225 22 49 40 00.

• Abengourou - A small town three hours north where you can have an audience with the king of Indénié Kingdom.
• Bouaké- The second largest city of Côte d'Ivoire located in the dead center of the country with a lively market and night scene.
• Grand-Bassam - About 45 minutes to the east and the original capital of the country with old Colonial architecture that is being restored and an excellent beach.
• Jacqueville - A small, relaxing beach town that sits about an hour from Abidjan with a short, 450-m ferry across the lagoon.
• San Pedro - An old town about six hours west of Abidjan with nice beaches which serves as a secondary port city for the country.