Rieti

Rieti is a small city in the region of Lazio in central Italy. It has a population of close to 50,000 and is the capital of the province of Rieti.

Despite being north of Rome, Rieti has a lot more in common with Southern Italy than with Northern Italy, both by culture and by the historically poor economic standard. It is not a mountain town, but the closeness to the Apennines and the bad roads make it seem more distant and less reachable than it really is.

The beauty of the landscape and the city's quietness, still uninvolved by mass tourism, make it a livable place and a favorite destination for many weekend tourists, coming mainly from Rome itself.

It has an ancient and lasting relationship with Rome, but has equally strong (or even stronger) ties with Umbria (mainly Terni) and Abruzzo (mainly L'Aquila). Until 1927, Rieti's territory wasn't even part of Lazio, being divided between Umbria and Abruzzo. Therefore, despite its current administrative placement in Lazio, it has more similarities with the quietness of Umbria and Abruzzo than with the chaotic metropolis of Rome.

The city centre rests on a small hilltop along the Velino River and overlooks the vast and fertile Rieti Plain or Holy Valley, almost entirely surrounded by mountains. The highest of them is Mount Terminillo, just 22km away, an important ski centre. It has a fast athletics circuit and hosts an annual IAAF Grand Prix event at which world records are often broken. For American basketball followers, it is famous as the childhood home of Kobe Bryant.

Long considered the center of Italy (Umbilicus Italiae) since Roman times, Rieti is renowned for its natural resources; nicknamed the "granary of Rome", still today its limpid springs provide about 80% of the capital's drinking water.

Rieti is a very ancient city, being founded even before Rome, and it is often called "mother of Rome". Legends state that Rhea Silvia, the mother of Rome's legendary founders Romulus and Remus, came from Rieti; she's depicted in the city emblem. Historically, Rieti belonged to the Sabines, a very powerful people, held as the direct ancestors of many Roman families, as per the Romans' famous myth of the abduction and rape of the Sabine women, which inspired several paintings and songs.

During the 13th century, it became a Papal seat. At that time, Rieti was the last city in the Papal States before the border with the Kingdom of Naples (which was at Cittaducale, a mere stone's throw away), and hence was an important military post. Afterwards, the city's importance declined. In the 20th century, as it became a provincial capital and the see of a small industrial district, it regained a role in the region, one of the province's few areas not to be depopulating. Still, its area remains marginal in Italy's politics and economics.

In addition to being difficult to label, Rieti does not possess a single famous monument or aspect, and its name is often overshadowed by the magnificence of nearby Rome. For all these reasons, it's a little-known city even among Italians: locals are often forced to explain to foreigners where Rieti is, and to correct the demonym: not "rietini", but "reatini". Try not to get it wrong, locals resent it.

Immediately out of the train and COTRAL bus station, before crossing the street on the crosswalks, you will see the Mediaeval city walls. Many Italian cities had defensive walls in the Middle Ages, but few in Lazio still have such an imposing and well preserved one. Rieti's walls were built in the 13th century and enclose the northern side of the city center; they were not needed at the southern side, enclosed by the Velino river, a natural defense. Unfortunately, you can't get on top of the walls, so the only way to visit them is to take a walk along viale Canali and viale Morroni, which border them. Nearest city gate is Porta Conca, Via Nuova, 126. It maintains the original 16th century wooden doors.

• After crossing the street, the St. Augustine Basilica, Piazza Mazzini. Built in the 13th century, it retains the beautiful Romanesque-Gothic exterior. Sadly the interior was later renewed in a less impressive neoclassical style, but it is still worth a visit for some remaining 15th century frescoes (mainly Crocifissione by Liberato di Benedetto) and for the funeral monument of Angelo Maria Ricci by neoclassic sculptor Giuseppe De Fabris. free.

After a while, you will be in the main square, piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, the highest point of the city. Notable elements in the square include:

• Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall), Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. It houses the municipal government and offices. The building dates back to the 14th century, but was largely modified afterwards. The nice neoclassical façade is work of Filippo Brioni (1748), while extensive changes were made after the 1898 earthquake, including the construction of the tall building on the left side, and the complete remaking of its rear side.
• Palazzo Comunale also hosts the Civic art Museum, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, 1 (entrance under the porch, then go up to the second floor, +39 0746 287280. Tu-Th 08:30-13:30; F Sa 08:30-13:30 and 15:30-18:30; Su and holidays 10:00-13:00 and 15:30-18:30. It displays several interesting artworks, including 14th century paintings by Luca di Tommè and Zanino di Pietro, several works by renaissance painter Antoniazzo Romano, an Ebe by Antonio Canova, and many works by notable local painters Antonio Gherardi, Carlo Cesi and Antonino Calcagnadoro. €3.
• Dolphin's fountain. 17th century fountain at the center of the square.
• Palazzo Dosi Delfini, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 17. Neoclassical palace dating back to the 17th century. Houses the headquarters of Rieti's small university.

Immediately out of the train and COTRAL bus station, before crossing the street on the crosswalks, you will see the Mediaeval city walls. Many Italian cities had defensive walls in the Middle Ages, but few in Lazio still have such an imposing and well preserved one. Rieti's walls were built in the 13th century and enclose the northern side of the city center; they were not needed at the southern side, enclosed by the Velino river, a natural defense. Unfortunately, you can't get on top of the walls, so the only way to visit them is to take a walk along viale Canali and viale Morroni, which border them. Nearest city gate is Porta Conca, Via Nuova, 126. It maintains the original 16th century wooden doors.

Immediately out of the train and COTRAL bus station, before crossing the street on the crosswalks, you will see the Mediaeval city walls. Many Italian cities had defensive walls in the Middle Ages, but few in Lazio still have such an imposing and well preserved one. Rieti's walls were built in the 13th century and enclose the northern side of the city center; they were not needed at the southern side, enclosed by the Velino river, a natural defense. Unfortunately, you can't get on top of the walls, so the only way to visit them is to take a walk along viale Canali and viale Morroni, which border them. Nearest city gate is Porta Conca, Via Nuova, 126. It maintains the original 16th century wooden doors.

After crossing the street, the St. Augustine Basilica, Piazza Mazzini. Built in the 13th century, it retains the beautiful Romanesque-Gothic exterior. Sadly the interior was later renewed in a less impressive neoclassical style, but it is still worth a visit for some remaining 15th century frescoes (mainly Crocifissione by Liberato di Benedetto) and for the funeral monument of Angelo Maria Ricci by neoclassic sculptor Giuseppe De Fabris. free.

Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall), Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. It houses the municipal government and offices. The building dates back to the 14th century, but was largely modified afterwards. The nice neoclassical façade is work of Filippo Brioni (1748), while extensive changes were made after the 1898 earthquake, including the construction of the tall building on the left side, and the complete remaking of its rear side.

Palazzo Comunale also hosts the Civic art Museum, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, 1 (entrance under the porch, then go up to the second floor, +39 0746 287280. Tu-Th 08:30-13:30; F Sa 08:30-13:30 and 15:30-18:30; Su and holidays 10:00-13:00 and 15:30-18:30. It displays several interesting artworks, including 14th century paintings by Luca di Tommè and Zanino di Pietro, several works by renaissance painter Antoniazzo Romano, an Ebe by Antonio Canova, and many works by notable local painters Antonio Gherardi, Carlo Cesi and Antonino Calcagnadoro. €3.

Dolphin's fountain. 17th century fountain at the center of the square.

Palazzo Dosi Delfini, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 17. Neoclassical palace dating back to the 17th century. Houses the headquarters of Rieti's small university.

Via Cintia goes downhill until the northwestern Porta Cintia city gate. Sights include:

• Palazzo Vincentini and Vignola's Gardens, Piazza Cesare Battisti (borders the main square on its southwest corner. 7:30-18:30. This 16th+century work is perhaps the most beautiful building here. Apart from the elegant façade, it has an astonishing Renaissance-styled loggia on the west side, overlooking a pretty Italian-style garden. The loggia has such a great artistic value that for a long time it was mistaken for a work by architect Vignola, and still it is commonly called "Loggia del Vignola" (although it is now considered the work of one of his pupils). The garden is always open to public, and is an enchanting place where children can play, and you can admire the beautiful loggia and a view over the roofs of the lower part of the city, lulled by the roar of the fountains. The Baroque interior of the building, normally not open to visits, since the building houses government offices, is sumptuous and includes a magnificent fireplace in polychrome marble. free.
• Civic Archeological Museum, Via Sant'Anna, 4 (From Piazza Cesare Battisti, go down the long staircase which is at the square's southwestern corner, +39 0746 287280. Tu-Th 08:30-13:30; F Sa 08:30-13:30 and 15:30-18:30; Su and holidays 10:00-13:00 and 15:30-18:30. It consists in a display of sculptures, coins, goldsmithery and objects from the prehistoric, Etruscan, Hellenistic and Roman periods, including a iron age urn found near Rieti. €3.
• St. Mary Cathedral, Piazza Cesare Battisti. It was started in 1109. It has an impressive Romanesque bell tower from 1252. The interior was almost entirely rebuilt in 1639 and hence is mainly Baroque, and hosts several noteworthy paintings and sculptures. The crypt remains from the original Romanesque church.
• Diocesan museum of ecclesiastical assets, Via Cintia, 83. It is a museal path consisting of the Cathedral Treasury museum, housed in the Cathedral's baptistery; a museum of liturgical furnishings, in rooms near to the Cathedral's crypt; a lapidary in the vestibule leading from the crypt to the Bishop's Palace; and of the Diocesan Art Gallery, set up in the audience hall of the Bishop's Palace.

• Bishops' Palace, Via Cintia, 108. Built in 1288, it has been the residence of several popes and hence is also called "Papal Palace". The exterior is severe and in Romanesque style; inside, the ground floor, always open to the public, houses a beautiful Gothic cross vault, while the upper floor contains the audience hall (which houses the diocesan picture gallery) and the bishop's private apartment.
• Bonface VIII Arch, Via Cintia, 77. It's a large arch which runs over the street. It was built by Pope Boniface VIII, which witnessed the 1298 earthquake; he was so frightened of collapsing buildings, that he ordered his own palace to be reinforced with this arch.
• St. Dominic church, Piazza Beata Colomba (take a left turn near house number n. 65, taking Via Sanizi. Built in the 13th century, the church was restored and reopened in the 1990s after being abandoned for two centuries. It preserves the Romanesque exterior, while few has remained of the original interior, apart from some small surviving frescoes. To fill the void, a very large pipe organ has been built inside.
• St. Peter the Martyr Oratory and Blessed Colomba cloister. St. Dominic church has an architecturally significant convent, well worth a visit. It develops around the Blessed Colomba cloister, with a beautiful Italian-style garden and a portico decorated by frescoed lunettes illustrating the life of the blessed Colomba. At one side of the cloister, there is the St. Peter the Martyr Oratory, a small chapel that houses an astonishing fresco of the Last Judgment, painted by brothers Lorenzo and Bartolomeo Torresani between 1552 and 1554. Sadly, it is almost impossible to visit the oratory and the cloister, since it's part of the military area of an Italian Army barracks (caserma Verdirosi), and the military allows touristic visits only on special occasions (eg. "giornate FAI"). This is a real shame, since it is arguably the most important fresco in the whole city!

Palazzo Vincentini and Vignola's Gardens, Piazza Cesare Battisti (borders the main square on its southwest corner. 7:30-18:30. This 16th+century work is perhaps the most beautiful building here. Apart from the elegant façade, it has an astonishing Renaissance-styled loggia on the west side, overlooking a pretty Italian-style garden. The loggia has such a great artistic value that for a long time it was mistaken for a work by architect Vignola, and still it is commonly called "Loggia del Vignola" (although it is now considered the work of one of his pupils). The garden is always open to public, and is an enchanting place where children can play, and you can admire the beautiful loggia and a view over the roofs of the lower part of the city, lulled by the roar of the fountains. The Baroque interior of the building, normally not open to visits, since the building houses government offices, is sumptuous and includes a magnificent fireplace in polychrome marble. free.

Civic Archeological Museum, Via Sant'Anna, 4 (From Piazza Cesare Battisti, go down the long staircase which is at the square's southwestern corner, +39 0746 287280. Tu-Th 08:30-13:30; F Sa 08:30-13:30 and 15:30-18:30; Su and holidays 10:00-13:00 and 15:30-18:30. It consists in a display of sculptures, coins, goldsmithery and objects from the prehistoric, Etruscan, Hellenistic and Roman periods, including a iron age urn found near Rieti. €3.

St. Mary Cathedral, Piazza Cesare Battisti. It was started in 1109. It has an impressive Romanesque bell tower from 1252. The interior was almost entirely rebuilt in 1639 and hence is mainly Baroque, and hosts several noteworthy paintings and sculptures. The crypt remains from the original Romanesque church.

Diocesan museum of ecclesiastical assets, Via Cintia, 83. It is a museal path consisting of the Cathedral Treasury museum, housed in the Cathedral's baptistery; a museum of liturgical furnishings, in rooms near to the Cathedral's crypt; a lapidary in the vestibule leading from the crypt to the Bishop's Palace; and of the Diocesan Art Gallery, set up in the audience hall of the Bishop's Palace.

Bishops' Palace, Via Cintia, 108. Built in 1288, it has been the residence of several popes and hence is also called "Papal Palace". The exterior is severe and in Romanesque style; inside, the ground floor, always open to the public, houses a beautiful Gothic cross vault, while the upper floor contains the audience hall (which houses the diocesan picture gallery) and the bishop's private apartment.

Bonface VIII Arch, Via Cintia, 77. It's a large arch which runs over the street. It was built by Pope Boniface VIII, which witnessed the 1298 earthquake; he was so frightened of collapsing buildings, that he ordered his own palace to be reinforced with this arch.

St. Dominic church, Piazza Beata Colomba (take a left turn near house number n. 65, taking Via Sanizi. Built in the 13th century, the church was restored and reopened in the 1990s after being abandoned for two centuries. It preserves the Romanesque exterior, while few has remained of the original interior, apart from some small surviving frescoes. To fill the void, a very large pipe organ has been built inside.

St. Peter the Martyr Oratory and Blessed Colomba cloister. St. Dominic church has an architecturally significant convent, well worth a visit. It develops around the Blessed Colomba cloister, with a beautiful Italian-style garden and a portico decorated by frescoed lunettes illustrating the life of the blessed Colomba. At one side of the cloister, there is the St. Peter the Martyr Oratory, a small chapel that houses an astonishing fresco of the Last Judgment, painted by brothers Lorenzo and Bartolomeo Torresani between 1552 and 1554. Sadly, it is almost impossible to visit the oratory and the cloister, since it's part of the military area of an Italian Army barracks (caserma Verdirosi), and the military allows touristic visits only on special occasions (eg. "giornate FAI"). This is a real shame, since it is arguably the most important fresco in the whole city!

Going east from the main square, Via Garibaldi goes downhill until the eastern Porta d'Arci city gate. Sights include:

• The assumed Center of Italy, Piazza San Rufo (take a right turn to the small alley near house number n. 278. The so-called geographical center of Italy might seem like a gimmick to attract tourists, but Rieti was actually nicknamed "Umbilicus Italiae" ("navel of Italy") even in Roman times. The exact point is at St. Rufus square, recorded by a multilingual plaque and a monument which locals call "caciotta", as it resembles a round cheese.
• In the same square, you will also find St. Rufus Church. The small Baroque church is worth a visit mainly because of the painting known as "The Guarding Angel", hosted inside and attributed to Caravaggio or one of his pupils. It is said to be the most important painting in town.
• Flavio Vespasiano Theather, Via Garibaldi, 265. Opened in 1893, it is the city's main theater and opera house, held as one of Italy's best theaters for acoustics. The elegant interior holds art noveau decorations by Antonino Calcagnadoro and a large painting on the dome by Giulio Rolland, depicting the triumph of Rome's emperors Titus and Flavius following the victory over Jerusalem.
• St. Anthony the Abbot church, Via Vignola (you have to take a left turn near house number n. 201. This church was built in 1620 on a design by famous architect Vignola. Its Baroque façade was never completed: the brickwork surface had to be covered with marble slabs, like Rome's Gesù church. Sadly, the church has been lying abandoned since the 1970s; its interior is off limits and has become a refuge for pigeons, stray cats and vandals.
• Via dei Pozzi. It's a small alley that perfectly represents the typical features of mediaeval cities, with arches, ladders and narrow passages. Sadly it's not the cleanest spot in town, even if recently repaved.

• Porta d'Arci, Via Garibaldi, 1. The eastern city gate of the mediaeval walls, the largest and arguably the most scenic one, on the Via Salaria consular road to Ascoli and L'Aquila.

The assumed Center of Italy, Piazza San Rufo (take a right turn to the small alley near house number n. 278. The so-called geographical center of Italy might seem like a gimmick to attract tourists, but Rieti was actually nicknamed "Umbilicus Italiae" ("navel of Italy") even in Roman times. The exact point is at St. Rufus square, recorded by a multilingual plaque and a monument which locals call "caciotta", as it resembles a round cheese.

In the same square, you will also find St. Rufus Church. The small Baroque church is worth a visit mainly because of the painting known as "The Guarding Angel", hosted inside and attributed to Caravaggio or one of his pupils. It is said to be the most important painting in town.

Flavio Vespasiano Theather, Via Garibaldi, 265. Opened in 1893, it is the city's main theater and opera house, held as one of Italy's best theaters for acoustics. The elegant interior holds art noveau decorations by Antonino Calcagnadoro and a large painting on the dome by Giulio Rolland, depicting the triumph of Rome's emperors Titus and Flavius following the victory over Jerusalem.

St. Anthony the Abbot church, Via Vignola (you have to take a left turn near house number n. 201. This church was built in 1620 on a design by famous architect Vignola. Its Baroque façade was never completed: the brickwork surface had to be covered with marble slabs, like Rome's Gesù church. Sadly, the church has been lying abandoned since the 1970s; its interior is off limits and has become a refuge for pigeons, stray cats and vandals.

Via dei Pozzi. It's a small alley that perfectly represents the typical features of mediaeval cities, with arches, ladders and narrow passages. Sadly it's not the cleanest spot in town, even if recently repaved.

Porta d'Arci, Via Garibaldi, 1. The eastern city gate of the mediaeval walls, the largest and arguably the most scenic one, on the Via Salaria consular road to Ascoli and L'Aquila.

Via Roma, a street filled of shops and boutiques, goes downhill until reaching the Velino riverside. Sights include:

• Palazzo Vecchiarelli, Via Roma, 57. 16th century palace designed by baroque architech Carlo Maderno.
• Rieti sotterranea, +39 347 7279591. By reservation only. A guided visit to the undergrounds of Via Roma's buildings surprisingly reveal that a 3rd century Roman viaduct is still in place under the street, and supports the weight of the road with its arches. It is also shown how in the past some buildings had a boat access from the Velino river, like in a small-scale Venice. The visit lasts around 1 hour and 45 minutes. €7.

• Remains of the Roman Bridge on Velino River. Built in the 3rd century AD, it remained the main access to the town until the 1930s, when it became too low on the water level and had to be demolished. The old bridge was laid out on the riverbed, but can still be seen emerging from the water, while a modern bridge replaced it. The nearby area is a very good spot to enjoy Rieti's natural beauties: Velino's water is clear, the riverside is covered by a nice lawn, and ducks use the old bridge as a nest. There are nice cafes and pubs facing the river.
• St. Francis church, Piazza San Francesco (From the Velino riverside, cross the river using the pedestrian wood bridge. Built in 13th century over a small oratory founded by Saint Francis, it's indeed his second church ever. It features a simple and clean Romanesque exterior, and a less valuable Baroque interior. It's very important for local believers, as it's the starting point of the procession of Saint Anthony, held every year on June 13. free.
• Monument to the Lira, Piazza Cavour. The euro currency was introduced on January 1, 2002. Italians still have fond memories of their former currency, the lira, despite the fact that they had to count in millions; this monument, sculpted by Daniela Fusco and inaugurated in 2003 by Sofia Loren, has became a cherished tourist attraction.

• Porta Romana, Piazza della Repubblica. The southern city gate of the mediaeval city walls, into the Via Salaria consular road to Rome. The current gate was built in 1586 and enclosed the small street Via Porta Romana; in 1930 it was moved at the center of the square to make its appearance more spectacular, as if it was an arch of triumph. Atop the gate, an inscription greets who is entering the city in Latin Ingredere Omnia Fausta Ferens ("enter bringing good wishes"); another salutes who is exiting the city with I et red feliciter ("go and come back successfully").

Palazzo Vecchiarelli, Via Roma, 57. 16th century palace designed by baroque architech Carlo Maderno.

Rieti sotterranea, +39 347 7279591. By reservation only. A guided visit to the undergrounds of Via Roma's buildings surprisingly reveal that a 3rd century Roman viaduct is still in place under the street, and supports the weight of the road with its arches. It is also shown how in the past some buildings had a boat access from the Velino river, like in a small-scale [[Venice]]. The visit lasts around 1 hour and 45 minutes. €7.

Remains of the Roman Bridge on Velino River. Built in the 3rd century AD, it remained the main access to the town until the 1930s, when it became too low on the water level and had to be demolished. The old bridge was laid out on the riverbed, but can still be seen emerging from the water, while a modern bridge replaced it. The nearby area is a very good spot to enjoy Rieti's natural beauties: Velino's water is clear, the riverside is covered by a nice lawn, and ducks use the old bridge as a nest. There are nice cafes and pubs facing the river.

St. Francis church, Piazza San Francesco (From the Velino riverside, cross the river using the pedestrian wood bridge. Built in 13th century over a small oratory founded by Saint Francis, it's indeed his second church ever. It features a simple and clean Romanesque exterior, and a less valuable Baroque interior. It's very important for local believers, as it's the starting point of the procession of Saint Anthony, held every year on June 13. free.

Monument to the Lira, Piazza Cavour. The euro currency was introduced on January 1, 2002. Italians still have fond memories of their former currency, the lira, despite the fact that they had to count in millions; this monument, sculpted by Daniela Fusco and inaugurated in 2003 by Sofia Loren, has became a cherished tourist attraction.

Porta Romana, Piazza della Repubblica. The southern city gate of the mediaeval city walls, into the Via Salaria consular road to Rome. The current gate was built in 1586 and enclosed the small street Via Porta Romana; in 1930 it was moved at the center of the square to make its appearance more spectacular, as if it was an arch of triumph. Atop the gate, an inscription greets who is entering the city in Latin Ingredere Omnia Fausta Ferens ("enter bringing good wishes"); another salutes who is exiting the city with I et red feliciter ("go and come back successfully").

• Cycling route along the Velino river. A beautiful bicycle path runs by the southern Velino riverside, going from west to east. It is 3km long and allows for a nice bike ride near the green river shores and far from traffic. Benches and drinking fountains are available along the way.
• Cycling route in the countryside. This is a longer bicycle path that consists of a 21km circular ring which starts and ends in Rieti. Entirely flat and without climbs, it is immersed in the nature of the Rieti Plain, between cultivated fields and rivers. Rest areas along the way have benches, picnic tables and drinking fountains. For most of the length, the bikeway has an easily recognizable orange colour. Pay attention to the Contigliano-Sant'Elia trait, where the route is not well indicated: always look for the red dashed line at the roadside to be sure of being on the right way.
• Fonte Cottorella Thermal springs, Via Fonte Cottorella, 19, +39 0746 271640. 1.5km south of the city center, Fonte Cottorella is a renowned spring of mineral water, used for drinking and for bathing. Near the spring there is the thermal building (sadly in a rather poor state), a restaurant, and a small park with benches, tables and paths that go into the nearby mountain. Its water can be tasted for free in a public fountain, and can be bought in larger quantities at a convenient price.

Cycling route along the Velino river. A beautiful bicycle path runs by the southern Velino riverside, going from west to east. It is 3km long and allows for a nice bike ride near the green river shores and far from traffic. Benches and drinking fountains are available along the way.

Cycling route in the countryside. This is a longer bicycle path that consists of a 21km circular ring which starts and ends in Rieti. Entirely flat and without climbs, it is immersed in the nature of the Rieti Plain, between cultivated fields and rivers. Rest areas along the way have benches, picnic tables and drinking fountains. For most of the length, the bikeway has an easily recognizable orange colour. Pay attention to the Contigliano-Sant'Elia trait, where the route is not well indicated: always look for the red dashed line at the roadside to be sure of being on the right way.

Fonte Cottorella Thermal springs, Via Fonte Cottorella, 19, +39 0746 271640. 1.5km south of the city center, Fonte Cottorella is a renowned spring of mineral water, used for drinking and for bathing. Near the spring there is the thermal building (sadly in a rather poor state), a restaurant, and a small park with benches, tables and paths that go into the nearby mountain. Its water can be tasted for free in a public fountain, and can be bought in larger quantities at a convenient price.

• Libreria Mondadori in former St. Peter church, Via Roma, 63, +39 0746 491616. Daily 09:30-13:30 and 16:00-20:00. This book shop deserves a visit, inside the small deconsecrated St. Peter church, with its nice Romanesque façade.

Libreria Mondadori in former St. Peter church, Via Roma, 63, +39 0746 491616. Daily 09:30-13:30 and 16:00-20:00. This book shop deserves a visit, inside the small deconsecrated St. Peter church, with its nice Romanesque façade.

• Il Nido del Corvo is in the small village of Greccio on the left of the road from Rieti to Terni. Specialized in local dishes, it's on the edge of a hill, with great views of the surrounding countryside.

Dudas Epicurateca is a wine bar/enoteca in the old city, that has a lovely outdoor terrace with stunning views of the surrounding area. The food is mainly small dishes based on local produce, the wine list extensive. The owner will help with suggestions and will make combinations to order. An

Il Nido del Corvo is in the small village of Greccio on the left of the road from Rieti to Terni. Specialized in local dishes, it's on the edge of a hill, with great views of the surrounding countryside.

• Main post office, Via Garibaldi, 283 (near the Palazzo Comunale, at the east border of main square Vittorio Emanuele. The building is a work of architect Cesare Bazzani (1934).
• Several areas in the city centre are covered by the municipal Wi-Fi network called "RietiFree", which lets you surf the internet for free; you are required to sign up at your first connection.

Main post office, Via Garibaldi, 283 (near the Palazzo Comunale, at the east border of main square Vittorio Emanuele. The building is a work of architect Cesare Bazzani (1934).

• Skiing is available at nearby Monte Terminillo.
• There are several national parks in the area and many opportunities for walks.
• Holy Valley of Saint Francis around Rieti.
• Marmore Waterfall and Lake of Piediluco