Sana'a is the capital of Yemen, located in the Yemeni Mountains and generally the first destination for travellers to that country. See the Stay Safe section of this article and the Yemen country page for important safety advice.
One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world (others being Jericho, Damascus and Aleppo), Sana'a is traditionally said to have been founded by Shem, the son of Noah. As a result, the city has the unlikely nickname of "Sam City".
Sana'a will start surprising you the moment you arrive at the airport. All the policemen and the civilians wear jambiya, the unique Yemeni dagger. Even small children are wearing little daggers. Everyone has a swollen cheek because of chewing qat leaves. Outside the airport, all buildings look the same because of uniformly painted windows and walls.
The city experiences a mild desert climate, with much more moderate temperatures than other Arabian Peninsula cities due to its high elevation.
The Old City of Sana'a is World Heritage Listed and makes a great place to see the uniquely Yemeni style of architecture - multiple-storey tower houses with the distinctive qamariya windows. Within the Old City is the Souk al-Milh, arguably the best souk (marketplace) in the Arabian Peninsula.
- Bab al-Yemen. One of the city's most important landmarks, it is the gate leading into the Old City, which is surrounded by ancient walls. The souk and many excellent restaurants are located nearby.
- National Museum of Yemen. 9AM-12PM. The museum is located in a former palace that was restored and converted into a museum. Here you can learn about the nation's history and culture. Most exhibits include English descriptions along with Arabic. YR500.
- Military Museum. morning from 9AM-1:30PM, afternoon from 3-8PM. Displays artifacts related to the Yemeni military. Explanations are all in Arabic; however, there is a part outside where they have English explanations about some of the more modern artifacts. YR200.
- Wadi Dhahr. A valley a few kilometers outside of Sana'a with green fields, villages, and the face Rock Palace of an Imam of Yemen.
- Great Mosque of Sana'a. One of the oldest mosques in the world. The oldest known written copy of the Quran was found here.
- Al Saleh Mosque. Located near the heavily-guarded Presidential Palace, it is one of the largest mosques in the world.
Bab al-Yemen. One of the city's most important landmarks, it is the gate leading into the Old City, which is surrounded by ancient walls. The souk and many excellent restaurants are located nearby.
National Museum of Yemen. 9AM-12PM. The museum is located in a former palace that was restored and converted into a museum. Here you can learn about the nation's history and culture. Most exhibits include English descriptions along with Arabic. YR500.
Military Museum. morning from 9AM-1:30PM, afternoon from 3-8PM. Displays artifacts related to the Yemeni military. Explanations are all in Arabic; however, there is a part outside where they have English explanations about some of the more modern artifacts. YR200.
Wadi Dhahr. A valley a few kilometers outside of Sana'a with green fields, villages, and the face Rock Palace of an Imam of Yemen.
Great Mosque of Sana'a. One of the oldest mosques in the world. The oldest known written copy of the Quran was found here.
Al Saleh Mosque. Located near the heavily-guarded Presidential Palace, it is one of the largest mosques in the world.
Sana'a is a great place for people-watching and culture observing. The unhurried pace of Yemeni life, coupled with the almost total lack of industrialisation seen in nearby countries, means that it's quite possible to pull up a chair in a coffee shop and watch the world go by for hours on end.
If you want an experience you can only get in Yemen (and are prepared to risk your health): participate in a qat session. Qat (khat) is a mild narcotic chewed by most males in Yemen. They spend their afternoons hanging out, chewing the leaf, and conversing. A bag will cost no more than 5 dollars, and you can get "inferior" product for a cheaper price. Side effects are lack of appetite and insomnia. Qat is considered by many as the prime cause of Yemen ranking as the poorest country in the Middle East. Note that Qat is considered a controlled substance in the United States and other countries (i.e. it is illegal and those trying to bring it into such countries risk arrest).
Almost everywhere you look, you will have the chance to buy the curved dagger (jambiya) worn by local men. This purchase can be simply of the dagger and its accompanying sheath, however handmade belts and silver pouches are also for sale, with many tourists opting to purchase each item separately. When purchasing a jambiya, remember first and foremost that it counts as a weapon for customs purposes, even though it is not used as one anymore. Secondly, bear in mind that the sheath is predominantly leather with either a base metal or (in more expensive models) silver working added. Traditionally, handles were made of animal horn or even ivory. While it is doubtful that the handles sold today as being made from either of these products are the real thing, a wooden or amber handle may be a better option. If a real jambiya seems too much, there are also pendants and brooches commonly available in the shape of the knife and its sheath.
Necklaces and jewellery are also common souvenirs, and many of these will in fact be made of the semi-precious stones the souvenir sellers claim. Nevertheless, a healthy grain of salt should be added to any belief that one is actually purchasing a necklace of lapis lazuli or anything like that.
Bargaining is expected and worthwhile. If you are with local guides, a common approach is to have them ask for the "Yemeni price", however any bargaining on the part of the tourist will result in discounts. Bear in mind, too, that what may seem an absurdly cheap price for an item in Western terms will still be a great return for many locals.
Yemen's currency, the rial (riyal), is subject to high inflation. As a result, many prices (particularly those quoted to white-skinned visitors) will be given in American dollars or Euros. Any of these three currencies will be accepted by the seller, so ask for the cost in whichever currency is preferred. Discounts for paying in one currency or the other are not high enough to warrant only paying in local money, but luck may be on your side.
Visitors should be careful when eating from street stands and the like, as the same warning which applies to tap water applies to poorly-prepared food. Salta is a popular Yemeni lunch dish that is served very hot.
Nearly all Yemeni food is budget. An average meal at a Sana'a restaurant will cost less than 2 dollars. Chicken is ubiquitous. A tuna steak served with rice costs 150-200 riyals.
- Al Shamiri Plaza hotel (next to Central bank of Yemen on Ali Abdull Mugni St.) has a rooftop restaurant on 8th floor which offers great views over old and new part of Sanaa. Menu is also in English and prices are very reasonable.
Hadda Street is where the more "upscale" restaurants are located. Clean restaurants with a large range of food include:
- Merkato Ethiopian Food, Across from Al-Hudda grocery.
- Karmouche Pizza, Iran street.
- Al-Hamra. Popular fast food place.
- Pizza Hut, Sabeen Street.
- KFC, Hadda Road.
- Khaleej Restaurant (popular traditional place)
- Shalal Wadibana, Tahrir street.
The five star hotels (Sheraton and Mövenpick) have decent, but pricey western food (and beer!). In the Haddah neighborhood you will find a number of more expensive restaurants like Grill 101 (American), Deja Vu restaurant and coffee shop, Zorba's (Greek) and Mehraja (Indian).
As in the rest of the country, the tap water should be avoided at all costs. Bottled water, both chilled and at room temperature, is readily available and very cheap - as is the normal range of fruit juices and soft drinks.
Nice tea and coffee house is "Friends Kafeteria" in Al-Tahrir area, Mocka Intersection. Here you can involve yourself into interesting conversations with Yemeni men. Also food is available. It looks like this place never closes down.
Near the Shumaila Hari Supermarket you will find the Coffee Trader, a place where you can get an excellent latte or cappuccino at Starbuck's prices and eat a piece of carrot cake while checking your e-mail on their wireless internet hotspot.
Travellers should, however, take care particularly in the Old City as the streets are poorly signposted and unwary visitors will often find themselves in someone's courtyard.
Maps of Yemen tend to have details of the city, but (as with road maps in the country) they are unreliable. If at all possible, visitors should find themselves a local guide.
Gun carrying is very normal as many men hold or have a gun for traditional reasons. One should not be alarmed at the sight of a gun, even a Kalashnikov.
- Greece Greece, Wadi Dahr Road, P.O. Box: 13590, +967 1 372 490.
- United Kingdom United Kingdom, 938 Thaher Himiyar St (East Ring Rd opposite Mövenpick Hotel, +967 1 308 100.
The United States embassy has suspended consular services; contact the embassy in Cairo instead.
Greece Greece, Wadi Dahr Road, P.O. Box: 13590, +967 1 372 490.
United Kingdom United Kingdom, 938 Thaher Himiyar St (East Ring Rd opposite Mövenpick Hotel, +967 1 308 100.
- The awe-inspiring Dar Al-Hajr (often known as the Rock Palace) is located in Wadi Dahr roughly 30 minutes from the city centre and makes a very easy afternoon's excursion. You will be able to take one of the local taxis.
- A full day excursion can take you to Thulla, Kawkaban and Shibam (not the Hadramout version but the Amran version) which is approximately 55 km from the outskirts of Sana'a. It is possible to stay overnight in Kawkaban, although there are only two hotels (more like full-board guest-houses as there are no restaurants). Accommodation and meals cost about €7.
The awe-inspiring Dar Al-Hajr (often known as the Rock Palace) is located in Wadi Dahr roughly 30 minutes from the city centre and makes a very easy afternoon's excursion. You will be able to take one of the local taxis.